Building up bike--what should I get LBS to do?

Kovie wrote: .......

Quoted message said:

Right now I intend to get a local lbs to do the following:

-Check BB tube for proper facing, alignment, threading, etc. -Check head tube for proper facing,
alignment, etc. -Press headset cups & races into head tube & fork crown -Measure & cut fork to
size & install stem

Make sure steerer is left long enough - quite a bit longer than you initially think you'll need (or
will be recommened) to allow for error and future adjustment (spacers can be used above stem in the
meantime and steerer can be trimmed again any time). A selection of 2 and 5mm spacers is useful to
fine tune.

There's nothing to stem fitting and headset can't be adjusted properly anyway until you've got the
front wheel and brake on to test it with.

Quoted message said:

The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm not sure if I'm qualified to
do myself:

-Install BB

The job itself will be no trouble with the Tacx tool if the BB shell has been faced. In this case
though, since the frame will be at the shop and you're worried about cost of tool, you might as well
get them to fit the BB at the same time.

Quoted message said:

-Install cranks

Easy to DIY if you have a torque wrench.

Quoted message said:

-Install cassette lockring

Total no brainer. Just get the tool (and a chain whip for removal) and DIY - you'll need the tools
anyway to occasionally change/clean, etc.

~PB

useful instructions: www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml

~PB

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Kovie
I'm building up a new Ti road bike with Centaur triple 10spd components and was wondering what I
should tackle myself, and what it would be better to have a local lbs do for me. I've taken apart
and rebuilt my 22 year old Trek several times in order to overhaul it, including hubs, BB, headet,
etc., all except for the fixed BB cup and headset cups and races, which have stayed in place the
whole time.

So I feel fairly confident in installing those parts that don't require special tools or experience,
e.g. brakes, derailleurs, cassette, etc. I also recently bought a Park PS-1 workstand, and have (or
will soon have) a decent selection of the proper tools. E.g. pedal wrench, torque wrench with all
the necessary atachments, cable/housing cutter, cassette tool, BB tool, crank puller, chain breaker,
etc. I'm just not sure about my skills in doing some steps properly.

Right now I intend to get a local lbs to do the following:

-Check BB tube for proper facing, alignment, threading, etc. -Check head tube for proper facing,
alignment, etc. -Press headset cups & races into head tube & fork crown -Measure & cut fork to size
& install stem

The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm not sure if I'm qualified to
do myself:

-Install BB -Install cranks -Install cassette lockring

Do any of these, or any other steps, require an expert's touch?

--
Kovie [email hidden]

I think your plan is good.
If your fork is threadless, I would have them install the "star fangled nut". The tool required is fancy or expensive, but you won't likely need it again.
If you are not absolutely certain of the handlebar height requirements, I might wait on having the last 10 - 30 mm of fork column cut off until you are sure. Once you are sure it is right you can go back and cut off more; however, it doesn't work in reverse.
The BB, crank and cassette lockring tools can be specialized, but aren't terribly expensive, and you will use them again someday.
Check out the bicycle repair map on Park Tools site at URL:
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml

Kovie said:

-Check BB tube for proper facing, alignment, threading, etc. -Check head tube for proper facing,
alignment, etc. -Press headset cups & races into head tube & fork crown

If you can do most overhaul stuff. This is where I would stop. Heck, pressing headset cups is no big
deal, either, but not worth worrying about. Let the shop do that. Oh, the crown race on the fork can
be hard to get on properly. You can let the shop do that as well.

Quoted message said:

-Measure & cut fork to size & install stem

Boy, I'd be much more concerned about them doing that than doing it myself. I presume you are
talking threadless, here. Be sure, whoever does it, to leave enough extra steerer to allow
raising/lowering the stem significantly, using spacers. Buy more spacers rather than cut more off.

If it's threaded, you don't have that worry, since bar height is not determined by the steerer
tube. If you have adequate threads on it, install first without cutting, measure carefully how
much you need to cut so that the locknut will go all the way on. Add a spacer or two rather than
cut too close. I'm glad I did that, since I was able to transfer my fork to the new frame when the
old one broke. Headtube length varies considerably for the same frame size, depending on bottom
bracket drop.

Quoted message said:

-Install BB

No problem with cartridge units. Use teflon tape (plumbers use this for threaded connections, very
nice) on the threads, and anti-seize -- and go slowly. Start the loose cup first (this helps
position the cartridge properly, then the cartridge with the fixed cup, and tighten the cartridge,
snugging down the loose cup most of the way as you go. You need a special tool, but it's cheap.

Depending on the shop, they may or may not use teflon tape, or antiseize, or grease. Bad. I'd do
this myself if I were you just to be sure.

Quoted message said:

-Install cranks

No problem.

Quoted message said:

-Install cassette lockring

Simple matter. You need to do this to replace cassettes, which you should learn to do yourself. That
is a maintenance item.

Once you've ridden the bike a bit, check the headset for looseness. Even with a press, headsets can
settle a bit.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | The trouble with the rat race is that even if you win you're _`\(,_ | still a rat. --Lilly
Tomlin (_)/ (_) |

"daveornee" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Kovie wrote: I think your plan is good. If your fork is threadless, I would have them install the
"star fangled nut". The tool required is fancy or expensive,

Pardon me but, IMO, The tool required (Park TNS-1) is neither fancy (a round piece of steel with a
threaded stud on the end of it) or particularly expensive (about $16). It makes really short work of
the procedure and ensures the nut is set to the proper depth. You can also DIY with a cut off piece
of broomstick and use the rounded end to set the star nut. A box of band-aids may also be required
using this method. ;^)

Quoted message said:

but you won't likely need it again.

This is true however.

Mike - but I like bicycle tools.

Hey guys, thanks for the great advice and words of reassurance. I guess that the Campy site's
strongly-worded recommendation to not do one's own maintenance scared me off a bit. I thought that
there was something about Campy components that required an lbs to work on it. Good to know that
except for a few specialized and rarely-needed procedures, I can do this on my own with the right
tools, which are quite affordable. This undoubtedly saves money in the long run, is more satisfying
to do, and if done right probably gives one a certain amount of peace of mind.

Oh yeah, I definitely intend to ask the lbs to leave a few centimeters on the fork, which is
threadless btw, until I'm ready to dial-in the length I need. I already have spacers so I'm all set
there. I just didn't want to take a chance with a hacksaw and guide, or in setting the nut. It's a
carbon steerer so I guess one has to be extra careful with those.

Now back to practicing my titanium welding skills...

--
Kovie [email hidden]

"Kovie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:fRZmb.29067$ao4.51278@attbi_s51...

Quoted message said:

I'm building up a new Ti road bike with Centaur triple 10spd components

and

Quoted message said:

was wondering what I should tackle myself, and what it would be better to have a local lbs do for
me. I've taken apart and rebuilt my 22 year old

Trek

Quoted message said:

several times in order to overhaul it, including hubs, BB, headet, etc.,

all

Quoted message said:

except for the fixed BB cup and headset cups and races, which have stayed

in

Quoted message said:

place the whole time.

So I feel fairly confident in installing those parts that don't require special tools or
experience, e.g. brakes, derailleurs, cassette, etc. I

also

Quoted message said:

recently bought a Park PS-1 workstand, and have (or will soon have) a

decent

Quoted message said:

selection of the proper tools. E.g. pedal wrench, torque wrench with all

the

Quoted message said:

necessary atachments, cable/housing cutter, cassette tool, BB tool, crank puller, chain breaker,
etc. I'm just not sure about my skills in doing

some

Quoted message said:

steps properly.

Right now I intend to get a local lbs to do the following:

-Check BB tube for proper facing, alignment, threading, etc. -Check head tube for proper facing,
alignment, etc. -Press headset cups & races into head tube & fork crown -Measure & cut fork to
size & install stem

The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm not sure

if

Quoted message said:

I'm qualified to do myself:

-Install BB -Install cranks -Install cassette lockring

Do any of these, or any other steps, require an expert's touch?

--
Kovie [email hidden]

kovie-<< The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm not sure if I'm qualified
to do myself:

-Install BB -Install cranks -Install cassette lockring >><BR><BR>

If you are not sure and the bike shop is a good one, why not have them do it? and Take the worry out
of the first rides??

It ain't rocket surgery but you can do it wrong...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Kovie said:

I'm building up a new Ti road bike with Centaur triple 10spd components and was wondering what I
should tackle myself, and what it would be better to have a local lbs do for me. I've taken apart
and rebuilt my 22 year old Trek several times in order to overhaul it, including hubs, BB, headet,
etc., all except for the fixed BB cup and headset cups and races, which have stayed in place the
whole time.

So I feel fairly confident in installing those parts that don't require special tools or
experience, e.g. brakes, derailleurs, cassette, etc. I also recently bought a Park PS-1 workstand,
and have (or will soon have) a decent selection of the proper tools. E.g. pedal wrench, torque
wrench with all the necessary atachments, cable/housing cutter, cassette tool, BB tool, crank
puller, chain breaker, etc. I'm just not sure about my skills in doing some steps properly.

Right now I intend to get a local lbs to do the following:

-Check BB tube for proper facing, alignment, threading, etc. -Check head tube for proper facing,
alignment, etc. -Press headset cups & races into head tube & fork crown -Measure & cut fork to
size & install stem

The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm not sure if I'm qualified to
do myself:

-Install BB -Install cranks -Install cassette lockring

Do any of these, or any other steps, require an expert's touch?

I think you have it just about right. Modern BBs and cassettes are easy if you get the right tools
(not particularly expensive). Use anti-seize on the BB threads and the freehub body. Remember that
the RH side of the BB shell is usually a left hand thread.

With cranks, I'd recommend tightening the bolts to the correct torque with a little grease, riding
50 miles, then removing the bolts, cleaning them and the axle thread thoroughly and retightening
them with some threadlock. Don't touch them after this or you could eventually burst the cranks at
the taper end. I like a bit of anti-seize on the tapers/splines (for square taper cranks) because
I've had some corrode together and that was expensive. I suppose this is one of those "holy war"
issues though.

"Kovie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:fRZmb.29067$ao4.51278@attbi_s51...

Quoted message said:

I'm building up a new Ti road bike with Centaur triple 10spd components

and

Quoted message said:

was wondering what I should tackle myself, and what it would be better to have a local lbs do for
me. I've taken apart and rebuilt my 22 year old

Trek

Quoted message said:

several times in order to overhaul it, including hubs, BB, headet, etc.,

all

Quoted message said:

except for the fixed BB cup and headset cups and races, which have stayed

in

Quoted message said:

place the whole time.

So I feel fairly confident in installing those parts that don't require special tools or
experience, e.g. brakes, derailleurs, cassette, etc. I

also

Quoted message said:

recently bought a Park PS-1 workstand, and have (or will soon have) a

decent

Quoted message said:

selection of the proper tools. E.g. pedal wrench, torque wrench with all

the

Quoted message said:

necessary atachments, cable/housing cutter, cassette tool, BB tool, crank puller, chain breaker,
etc. I'm just not sure about my skills in doing

some

Quoted message said:

steps properly.

Right now I intend to get a local lbs to do the following:

-Check BB tube for proper facing, alignment, threading, etc. -Check head tube for proper facing,
alignment, etc. -Press headset cups & races into head tube & fork crown -Measure & cut fork to
size & install stem

The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm not sure

if

Quoted message said:

I'm qualified to do myself:

-Install BB -Install cranks -Install cassette lockring

Do any of these, or any other steps, require an expert's touch?

--
Kovie [email hidden]

You can probably do everything except press the HS, pressing on the crown race, and cutting the
steerer. Your LBS has this nifty little jig that ensures that you cut your steerer tube straight.

Just remember that you can always cut the steerer shorter later, but its REAL hard to stretch it!

Mike

"Mike S." <mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet> wrote in message news:TZenb.83721$vj2.70613@fed1read06...

Quoted message said:

You can probably do everything except press the HS, pressing on the crown race, and cutting the
steerer. Your LBS has this nifty little jig that ensures that you cut your steerer tube straight.

I've was just doing this part of a build today. Pressing the headset was easy - just required a long
bolt, a nut and some large washers.

Cutting the steerer wasn't too hard - I started out by using a plumbing tube cutter but the blade
wasn't big enough to cut all the way through. Still it scored a line all around and about half-way
through that formed a useful guide for a hacksaw blade - no need of a special jig/saw to get a
straight cut all around. Personally I like things to be 'neat', even where they're hidden, but it
doesn't actually matter that much if it's not perfectly square anyway, since any imperfection will
be hidden under the stem/spacers.

I had the LBS hammer the crown race into place, since I didn't want to buy a special tool or risk
damaging the race hammering it down without one.

The star nut also required a fair bit of hammering with a reasonable force to knock it down square
into the steerer, which I did myself.

I think if you're someone who doesn't like hammering down with a reasonable amount of force onto an
expensive fork then these two tasks might be better done at an LBS.

Rich

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

You can probably do everything except press the HS, pressing on the

crown

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

race, and cutting the steerer. Your LBS has this nifty little jig that ensures that you cut your
steerer tube straight.

I've was just doing this part of a build today. Pressing the headset was easy - just required a
long bolt, a nut and some large washers.

Cutting the steerer wasn't too hard - I started out by using a plumbing

tube

Quoted message said:

cutter but the blade wasn't big enough to cut all the way through. Still

it

Quoted message said:

scored a line all around and about half-way through that formed a useful guide for a hacksaw blade
- no need of a special jig/saw to get a straight cut all around. Personally I like things to be
'neat', even where they're hidden, but it doesn't actually matter that much if it's not perfectly
square anyway, since any imperfection will be hidden under the

stem/spacers.

Quoted message said:

I had the LBS hammer the crown race into place, since I didn't want to buy

a

Quoted message said:

special tool or risk damaging the race hammering it down without one.

The star nut also required a fair bit of hammering with a reasonable force to knock it down square
into the steerer, which I did myself.

I think if you're someone who doesn't like hammering down with a

reasonable

Quoted message said:

amount of force onto an expensive fork then these two tasks might be

better

Quoted message said:

done at an LBS.

Rich

Why risk screwing up your $100 Chris King headset by bodging it in yourself? A 6-pack of beer works
wonders with most wrenches... As soon as I get to the point where I'm getting close to the point
where 6-packs are starting to approach the cost of the tool I'll have to think about buying one.
There's LOTS of 6-packs of beer in the price of that HS press!

While they're at it, they usually have the carbon cutting blade in their hacksaws too.

Mike

I guess I was just asking which procedures tend to be ones that a lbs should handle, as opposed to
those that aren't trivial but which can be done at home if done carefully. Extreme examples would be
brazing on bosses for the former, and installing new brake shoes for the latter. It's the grey areas
in-between that I was wondering about.

--
Kovie [email hidden]

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

kovie-<< The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm

not

Quoted message said:

sure if I'm qualified to do myself:

-Install BB -Install cranks -Install cassette lockring >><BR><BR>

If you are not sure and the bike shop is a good one, why not have them do

it?

Quoted message said:

and Take the worry out of the first rides??

It ain't rocket surgery but you can do it wrong...

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

I bought a torque wrench at Sears this weekend and was hoping to use it on the cranks. Even if I do
get the right torque the first time, should I still remove and reinstall the cranks after 50 miles?
Is this just a precautionary "contents may settle during transport" sort of thing?

--
Kovie [email hidden]

"Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Kovie said:

I'm building up a new Ti road bike with Centaur triple 10spd components

and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

was wondering what I should tackle myself, and what it would be better

to

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

have a local lbs do for me. I've taken apart and rebuilt my 22 year old

Trek

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

several times in order to overhaul it, including hubs, BB, headet, etc.,

all

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

except for the fixed BB cup and headset cups and races, which have

stayed in

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

place the whole time.

So I feel fairly confident in installing those parts that don't require special tools or
experience, e.g. brakes, derailleurs, cassette, etc. I

also

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

recently bought a Park PS-1 workstand, and have (or will soon have) a

decent

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

selection of the proper tools. E.g. pedal wrench, torque wrench with all

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

necessary atachments, cable/housing cutter, cassette tool, BB tool,

crank

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

puller, chain breaker, etc. I'm just not sure about my skills in doing

some

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

steps properly.

Right now I intend to get a local lbs to do the following:

-Check BB tube for proper facing, alignment, threading, etc. -Check head tube for proper facing,
alignment, etc. -Press headset cups & races into head tube & fork crown -Measure & cut fork to
size & install stem

The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm not

sure if

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'm qualified to do myself:

-Install BB -Install cranks -Install cassette lockring

Do any of these, or any other steps, require an expert's touch?

I think you have it just about right. Modern BBs and cassettes are easy if you get the right tools
(not particularly expensive). Use anti-seize on the BB threads and the freehub body. Remember that
the RH side of the BB shell is usually a left hand thread.

With cranks, I'd recommend tightening the bolts to the correct torque with a little grease, riding
50 miles, then removing the bolts, cleaning them and the axle thread thoroughly and retightening
them with some threadlock. Don't touch them after this or you could eventually burst the cranks at
the taper end. I like a bit of anti-seize on the tapers/splines (for square taper cranks) because
I've had some corrode together and that was expensive. I suppose this is one of those "holy war"
issues though.

"Kovie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:J8lnb.35307$ao4.72639@attbi_s51...

Quoted message said:

I bought a torque wrench at Sears this weekend and was hoping to use it on the cranks. Even if I
do get the right torque the first time, should I

still

Quoted message said:

remove and reinstall the cranks after 50 miles? Is this just a

precautionary

Quoted message said:

"contents may settle during transport" sort of thing?

--
Kovie [email hidden]

Not unless they need it...

Mike

Quoted message said:

"Zog The Undeniable" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Kovie said:

I'm building up a new Ti road bike with Centaur triple 10spd

components

Quoted message said:

and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

was wondering what I should tackle myself, and what it would be better

to

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

have a local lbs do for me. I've taken apart and rebuilt my 22 year

old

Quoted message said:

Trek

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

several times in order to overhaul it, including hubs, BB, headet,

etc.,

Quoted message said:

all

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

except for the fixed BB cup and headset cups and races, which have

stayed in

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

place the whole time.

So I feel fairly confident in installing those parts that don't

require

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

special tools or experience, e.g. brakes, derailleurs, cassette, etc.

I

Quoted message said:

also

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

recently bought a Park PS-1 workstand, and have (or will soon have) a

decent

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

selection of the proper tools. E.g. pedal wrench, torque wrench with

all

Quoted message said:

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

necessary atachments, cable/housing cutter, cassette tool, BB tool,

crank

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

puller, chain breaker, etc. I'm just not sure about my skills in doing

some

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

steps properly.

Right now I intend to get a local lbs to do the following:

-Check BB tube for proper facing, alignment, threading, etc. -Check head tube for proper
facing, alignment, etc. -Press headset cups & races into head tube & fork crown -Measure & cut
fork to size & install stem

The rest I hope to do myself, but there are a few steps that I'm not

sure if

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'm qualified to do myself:

-Install BB -Install cranks -Install cassette lockring

Do any of these, or any other steps, require an expert's touch?

I think you have it just about right. Modern BBs and cassettes are easy if you get the right
tools (not particularly expensive). Use anti-seize on the BB threads and the freehub body.
Remember that the RH side of the BB shell is usually a left hand thread.

With cranks, I'd recommend tightening the bolts to the correct torque with a little grease,
riding 50 miles, then removing the bolts, cleaning them and the axle thread thoroughly and
retightening them with some threadlock. Don't touch them after this or you could eventually
burst the cranks at the taper end. I like a bit of anti-seize on the tapers/splines (for square
taper cranks) because I've had some corrode together and that was expensive. I suppose this is
one of those "holy war" issues though.

Mike S.' mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet said:

Why risk screwing up your $100 Chris King headset by bodging it in yourself? A 6-pack of beer works
wonders with most wrenches... As soon as I get to the point where I'm getting close to the point
where 6-packs are starting to approach the cost of the tool I'll have to think about buying one.
There's LOTS of 6-packs of beer in the price of that HS press!

Not if you do it right... you can assemble a very workable headset press from a threaded rod, a
couple nuts and some washers from your local hardware store for about the price of a six-pack of
Budweiser on sale. It works just fine as long as you take your time and make sure everything stays
straight as you tighten it.

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.comOpen ↗ Home of the $695 ti frame

Mark Hickey:

Quoted message said:

Mike S.' mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet said:

Why risk screwing up your $100 Chris King headset by bodging it in yourself? A 6-pack of beer
works wonders with most wrenches... As soon as I get to the point where I'm getting close to the
point where 6-packs are starting to approach the cost of the tool I'll have to think about buying
one. There's LOTS of 6-packs of beer in the price of that HS press!

Not if you do it right... you can assemble a very workable headset press from a threaded rod, a
couple nuts and some washers from your local hardware store for about the price of a six-pack of
Budweiser on sale. It works just fine as long as you take your time and make sure everything stays
straight as you tighten it.

This is true. Use brass washers if you can get them, and thick cardboard cut to a disc shape to put
between the washers and the headset as extra cushion.

The only thing that you might want to get an LBS to do is pressing the race into the crown
of the fork.

In article <[email hidden]>, _@_._ says...

Quoted message said:

The only thing that you might want to get an LBS to do is pressing the race into the crown of
the fork.

You can improvise a tool to do this too. I bought a 1 foot length of 1 inch pipe and use it as a
slide hammer to put the race on the fork. I had to file the inside of the pipe a bit because it had
some excess material from when the threads were cut into the pipe.
-----------------
Alex

Mark Hickey said:

Mike S.' mikeshaw2@coxDOTnet said:

Why risk screwing up your $100 Chris King headset by bodging it in yourself? A 6-pack of beer
works wonders with most wrenches... As soon as I get to the point where I'm getting close to the
point where 6-packs are starting to approach the cost of the tool I'll have to think about buying
one. There's LOTS of 6-packs of beer in the price of that HS press!

Not if you do it right... you can assemble a very workable headset press from a threaded rod, a
couple nuts and some washers from your local hardware store for about the price of a six-pack of
Budweiser on sale. It works just fine as long as you take your time and make sure everything stays
straight as you tighten it.

And any wrench that'll work for Budweiser rather than Beer.. would you want them operating on
your bike?

Jasper

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Why risk screwing up your $100 Chris King headset by bodging it in

yourself?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

A 6-pack of beer works wonders with most wrenches... As soon as I get

to

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the point where I'm getting close to the point where 6-packs are

starting to

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

approach the cost of the tool I'll have to think about buying one.

There's

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

LOTS of 6-packs of beer in the price of that HS press!

Not if you do it right... you can assemble a very workable headset press from a threaded rod, a
couple nuts and some washers from your local hardware store for about the price of a six-pack of
Budweiser on sale. It works just fine as long as you take your time and make sure everything
stays straight as you tighten it.

And any wrench that'll work for Budweiser rather than Beer.. would you want them operating on
your bike?

Jasper

The ones I know that will work for beer (for me) are worth it. I do everything else, so pressing,
and facing and chasing are about the only things I have an LBS do.

Actually, the last time it was a 12-pack of Sierra Nevada, but this one was a PITA...

Mike