Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Brake pad types

Started by BJaY · · Last activity · 44 posts · 1,337 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
27 December 2006
Last activity
2 January 2007
Original author
BJaY
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  1. Quoted message said:
    Pat Lamb said:
    Quoted message said:

    > oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike
    > kool-stops.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Wow. So all those times I hit the brakes in downpours, it was
    something other than my Kool-Stop brake shoes that stopped me!

    Quoted message said:

    FWIW, my experience says Kool-stop pads take one extra revolution,
    given normal brake pressure, to grab when wet. There's a tale
    behind that conclusion, of course...

    Quoted message said:

    My new bike came with Shimano pads; it took a couple weeks before I
    got the Kool-stop pads in, and I wasn't sure I had them installed in
    the shoes just right, so I only put one wheel's worth on for a few
    months. Now, although I ride some in rain (not as much as Seattle
    cyclists), I've only had two stops in the last three years where I
    wasn't sure I could stop in time because of water on the brakes.
    The worst, repeatable, problem I have with wet braking is when I
    wheel the bike through grass wet with heavy dew out to the road. I
    usually remember to squeegee them off at the first sign, half a
    block away, down a nasty 6 foot drop. That's where I figured out
    the rear wheel (with the stock Shimano pads) started grabbing about
    one rev before the front wheel, with the Kool-stops.

    Quoted message said:

    However, the one time I had wet rims AND there was a car coming, I
    grabbed the front brake with some additional authority, and the
    Kool-stop pads responded rapidly. I stayed out of the road, the
    oncoming car did not hit me, and I managed not to go over the bars.

    Quoted message said:

    I've since changed the back brakes to Kool-stops because, as noted
    here previously, they don't embed grit in them and start turning
    gouges in the rim. I expect the rear rim will smooth out in a few
    (thousand) more miles from the Shimano pad abuse.

    As I mentioned before, here on the forum, water in the film
    thicknesses of interest on smooth surfaces is not readily wiped away
    so that only when the rim begins to get warm from braking will water
    displace from between brake pad and rim. an example of this is a
    window squeegee with sharp edged rubber. It glides over a window on
    the boundary layer of water that it cannot displace. The same goes
    for windshield wipers. Another example where water has an affinity
    for surfaces while giving good lubrication occurs when shaving with a
    blade.

    I had the opportunity to test this before the days of Kool-Stop salmon
    brake pads and after, with the same results. When snow builds up on
    the inner circumference of a rim, there is almost no braking,
    regardless of how hard the brake is applied, until all the snow has
    melted and no longer acts as water supply for the brake surface. Once
    the snow is gone, braking rapidly recovers to normal.

    I found no perceptible difference between Campagnolo and Kool-Stop
    brake pads with this experiment, but I must admit that there was more
    than a year between tests. Still, zero braking is not hard to
    distinguish from braking.

    The test also made clear that when braking in rain, the brake track
    remains essentially "dry" unless the downpour splashes from the road
    onto the rim. In that event, response is poor.

    which is precisely my point. when it's /really/ wet, response on
    kool-stop pads /is/ poor. abysmally poor.

    you're right about boundary layers causing this. the irony is, pads
    that can break through this tend to grit up.

    on reflection, i think i should qualify my statement about campy pads.
    they're very effective, even in horizontal rain, and they're excellent
    against grit. but they can /temporarily/ grit. i've found that
    brake-release-brake repeatedly allows grit to move on before getting
    embedded. old shimano pads catch but don't release.

    Quoted message said:


    Another interesting characteristic of water is brake squeal that can
    be piercing at one time and absent at another. Kool-Stop salmon pads
    seem to be more sensitive to atmospheric humidity than some in that
    they squeal readily when first applied if they have been worn enough
    to make full contact. Once the rim warms, squealing ceases. There
    are other reasons for brake squeal, such as riding through a meadow
    with rich weed foliage (tar weed) or touching a rim with greasy hands.

    Jobst Brandt

  2. In article <[email hidden]>,

    * * Chas said:

    "Pat Lamb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    jim beam wrote:
    >
    > oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike


    kool-stops.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Wow. So all those times I hit the brakes in downpours, it was
    something other than my Kool-Stop brake shoes that stopped me!

    FWIW, my experience says Kool-stop pads take one extra revolution, given
    normal brake pressure, to grab when wet. There's a tale behind that
    conclusion, of course...

    My new bike came with Shimano pads; it took a couple weeks before I got
    the Kool-stop pads in, and I wasn't sure I had them installed in the
    shoes just right, so I only put one wheel's worth on for a few months.
    Now, although I ride some in rain (not as much as Seattle cyclists),
    I've only had two stops in the last three years where I wasn't sure I
    could stop in time because of water on the brakes. The worst,
    repeatable, problem I have with wet braking is when I wheel the bike
    through grass wet with heavy dew out to the road. I usually remember to
    squeegee them off at the first sign, half a block away, down a nasty 6
    foot drop. That's where I figured out the rear wheel (with the stock
    Shimano pads) started grabbing about one rev before the front wheel,
    with the Kool-stops.

    However, the one time I had wet rims AND there was a car coming, I
    grabbed the front brake with some additional authority, and the
    Kool-stop pads responded rapidly. I stayed out of the road, the
    oncoming car did not hit me, and I managed not to go over the bars.

    I've since changed the back brakes to Kool-stops because, as noted here
    previously, they don't embed grit in them and start turning gouges in
    the rim. I expect the rear rim will smooth out in a few (thousand) more
    miles from the Shimano pad abuse.

    Pat

    I haven't tried Kool-Stop pads in many years but they used to take longer
    to break into fitting the rim than many OEM pads. Was that an issue for
    you?

    For the record, the Kool-Stop pads that work well in wet and dry are the
    "salmon" pads. It's a different material than the "red" pads.

  3. Disc brakes work in rain ... the PSI is much higher on the pucks ,

    same on cars ...drums vs discs ...

    Bike brake pads are hack sawed at an angle , 4 places ...

    \\\\\
    /////
    wheel direction ->

    On old road bikes , i wrap alum strips around fork legs
    and attach to brake pad bolt , now i permanently leave
    out the bolt , that normally holds the caliper .
    It centers better , pulls directly on the fork leg .
    I have been using this for 35 years .....
    I found an old old sealed BB , 17mm axle ... I cut out the
    frame shell to handle 6003-2RS ballbearings ..
    I ground ballbearings on an angle ......
    twice the load ability as the new sealed bearing BB !!
    I DIY dual cable on all my derailers ,
    no return springs needed ..
    BTW never do business with VXB bearing ...
    they tried to sell me $600 , BB , they grind as you turn
    them in your fingers . The cage was interfering .

  4. * * Chas said:

    "Pat Lamb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:


    My new bike came with Shimano pads; it took a couple weeks before I got
    the Kool-stop pads in, and I wasn't sure I had them installed in the
    shoes just right, so I only put one wheel's worth on for a few months.


    ....

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    I've since changed the back brakes to Kool-stops because, as noted here
    previously, they don't embed grit in them and start turning gouges in
    the rim. I expect the rear rim will smooth out in a few (thousand) more
    miles from the Shimano pad abuse.

    Pat

    I haven't tried Kool-Stop pads in many years but they used to take longer
    to break into fitting the rim than many OEM pads. Was that an issue for
    you?

    Quick answer is no. This one was the slide the new pads into the
    (cantilever) holder. Earlier bike, I had to adjust the cantis to fit
    the pads to the rim, but I didn't leave the pads to wear down to the
    rim profile.

    Pat

    Email address works as is.

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