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Brake pad types

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Cycling Equipment
Published
27 December 2006
Last activity
2 January 2007
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BJaY
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  1. Werehatrack said:

    On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 18:17:06 GMT, "BJaY" <[email hidden]> may

    have said:

    Hi,
    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.

    Interesting supermarket you have there. Ours comes no closer to
    supplying cycling gear than having a meager selection of power bars
    and sports drinks. (Auchan used to have some bike stuff, but it was
    [censored]...and they finally gave up and closed their stores here.)

    [snip]

    Dear Werehatrack,

    I don't know where BJay shops, but some "supermarkets" are also known
    as WalMart and KMart.

    They often sell Bell brake pad kits, but they've always been out of
    KoolStop and Campagnolo pads whenever I looked.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  2. Quoted message said:
    Werehatrack said:

    On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 18:17:06 GMT, "BJaY" <[email hidden]> may

    have said:

    Hi,
    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the
    supermarket.

    Interesting supermarket you have there. Ours comes no closer to
    supplying cycling gear than having a meager selection of power bars
    and sports drinks. (Auchan used to have some bike stuff, but it was
    [censored]...and they finally gave up and closed their stores here.)

    [snip]

    Dear Werehatrack,

    I don't know where BJay shops, but some "supermarkets" are also known
    as WalMart and KMart.

    Or, in the UK, Asda -- now owned by WalMart.

    ~PB

  3. On Thu, 28 Dec 2006 10:48:03 -0000, "Pete Biggs"

    may have said:
    Quoted message said:
    Werehatrack said:

    On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 18:17:06 GMT, "BJaY" <[email hidden]> may
    have said:

    > Hi,
    > I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the
    > supermarket.

    Interesting supermarket you have there. Ours comes no closer to
    supplying cycling gear than having a meager selection of power bars
    and sports drinks. (Auchan used to have some bike stuff, but it was
    [censored]...and they finally gave up and closed their stores here.)

    [snip]

    Dear Werehatrack,

    I don't know where BJay shops, but some "supermarkets" are also known
    as WalMart and KMart.

    Or, in the UK, Asda -- now owned by WalMart.

    One can only wonder how long Tesco can remain out of the clutches of
    the Borg.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  4. jim beam said:

    oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike kool-stops.

    Wow. So all those times I hit the brakes in downpours, it was
    something other than my Kool-Stop brake shoes that stopped me!

    In retrospect, that makes sense. You see, my front cantilevers mount
    to the front of the forks, and that puts several brake parts in
    tension. As we've previously learned from j.b., that's impossible,
    too.

    I guess I've been stopping by telekinesis!

    ;-)

    - Frank Krygowski

  5. Quoted message said:
    jim beam said:


    oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike kool-stops.

    Wow. So all those times I hit the brakes in downpours, it was
    something other than my Kool-Stop brake shoes that stopped me!

    FWIW, my experience says Kool-stop pads take one extra revolution, given
    normal brake pressure, to grab when wet. There's a tale behind that
    conclusion, of course...

    My new bike came with Shimano pads; it took a couple weeks before I got
    the Kool-stop pads in, and I wasn't sure I had them installed in the
    shoes just right, so I only put one wheel's worth on for a few months.
    Now, although I ride some in rain (not as much as Seattle cyclists),
    I've only had two stops in the last three years where I wasn't sure I
    could stop in time because of water on the brakes. The worst,
    repeatable, problem I have with wet braking is when I wheel the bike
    through grass wet with heavy dew out to the road. I usually remember to
    squeegee them off at the first sign, half a block away, down a nasty 6
    foot drop. That's where I figured out the rear wheel (with the stock
    Shimano pads) started grabbing about one rev before the front wheel,
    with the Kool-stops.

    However, the one time I had wet rims AND there was a car coming, I
    grabbed the front brake with some additional authority, and the
    Kool-stop pads responded rapidly. I stayed out of the road, the
    oncoming car did not hit me, and I managed not to go over the bars.

    I've since changed the back brakes to Kool-stops because, as noted here
    previously, they don't embed grit in them and start turning gouges in
    the rim. I expect the rear rim will smooth out in a few (thousand) more
    miles from the Shimano pad abuse.

    Pat

  6. Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    KoolStop's an interesting company. They make some great products (best
    brake shoes, in my opinion), but some things they do leave you
    scratching your head. Like the thicker leading edge on the pad,
    supposedly designed to hit the rim first and scrape away stuff before it
    gets to the rest of the pad. I always shave that part of the pad down
    before I install them on my own bike. But just try to have a
    conversation with them about that "scraper" material. You get the idea
    that someone came up with that at the beginning of time, and all ideas
    formed at the beginning of time are to be considered beyond question.

    The thicker leading edge isn't a "scraper." It's for initial alignment.
    It quickly wears off, leaving the pad with the proper toe-in. It may not
    be perfect but it's probably closer than most people would get freehand.

    Matt O.

  7. Quoted message said:

    The thicker leading edge isn't a "scraper." It's for initial alignment.
    It quickly wears off, leaving the pad with the proper toe-in. It may not
    be perfect but it's probably closer than most people would get freehand.

    Which isn't what they tell you at the trade shows, or the package. "Special
    tip removes water and mud from rims." Right on the front of the package.

    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com
    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

    "Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    KoolStop's an interesting company. They make some great products (best
    brake shoes, in my opinion), but some things they do leave you
    scratching your head. Like the thicker leading edge on the pad,
    supposedly designed to hit the rim first and scrape away stuff before it
    gets to the rest of the pad. I always shave that part of the pad down
    before I install them on my own bike. But just try to have a
    conversation with them about that "scraper" material. You get the idea
    that someone came up with that at the beginning of time, and all ideas
    formed at the beginning of time are to be considered beyond question.

    The thicker leading edge isn't a "scraper." It's for initial alignment.
    It quickly wears off, leaving the pad with the proper toe-in. It may not
    be perfect but it's probably closer than most people would get freehand.

    Matt O.

  8. Matt O'Toole said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    KoolStop's an interesting company. They make some great products
    (best brake shoes, in my opinion), but some things they do leave you
    scratching your head. Like the thicker leading edge on the pad,
    supposedly designed to hit the rim first and scrape away stuff
    before it gets to the rest of the pad. I always shave that part of
    the pad down before I install them on my own bike. But just try to
    have a conversation with them about that "scraper" material. You get
    the idea that someone came up with that at the beginning of time,
    and all ideas formed at the beginning of time are to be considered
    beyond question.

    The thicker leading edge isn't a "scraper." It's for initial
    alignment. It quickly wears off, leaving the pad with the proper
    toe-in. It may not be perfect but it's probably closer than most
    people would get freehand.

    Are you referring to what Kool Stop call the "Plow Tip"? They describe it
    as being for "rain and mud removal". See www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    ~PB

  9. Pat Lamb said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike
    kool-stops.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Wow. So all those times I hit the brakes in downpours, it was
    something other than my Kool-Stop brake shoes that stopped me!

    Quoted message said:

    FWIW, my experience says Kool-stop pads take one extra revolution,
    given normal brake pressure, to grab when wet. There's a tale
    behind that conclusion, of course...

    Quoted message said:

    My new bike came with Shimano pads; it took a couple weeks before I
    got the Kool-stop pads in, and I wasn't sure I had them installed in
    the shoes just right, so I only put one wheel's worth on for a few
    months. Now, although I ride some in rain (not as much as Seattle
    cyclists), I've only had two stops in the last three years where I
    wasn't sure I could stop in time because of water on the brakes.
    The worst, repeatable, problem I have with wet braking is when I
    wheel the bike through grass wet with heavy dew out to the road. I
    usually remember to squeegee them off at the first sign, half a
    block away, down a nasty 6 foot drop. That's where I figured out
    the rear wheel (with the stock Shimano pads) started grabbing about
    one rev before the front wheel, with the Kool-stops.

    Quoted message said:

    However, the one time I had wet rims AND there was a car coming, I
    grabbed the front brake with some additional authority, and the
    Kool-stop pads responded rapidly. I stayed out of the road, the
    oncoming car did not hit me, and I managed not to go over the bars.

    Quoted message said:

    I've since changed the back brakes to Kool-stops because, as noted
    here previously, they don't embed grit in them and start turning
    gouges in the rim. I expect the rear rim will smooth out in a few
    (thousand) more miles from the Shimano pad abuse.

    As I mentioned before, here on the forum, water in the film
    thicknesses of interest on smooth surfaces is not readily wiped away
    so that only when the rim begins to get warm from braking will water
    displace from between brake pad and rim. an example of this is a
    window squeegee with sharp edged rubber. It glides over a window on
    the boundary layer of water that it cannot displace. The same goes
    for windshield wipers. Another example where water has an affinity
    for surfaces while giving good lubrication occurs when shaving with a
    blade.

    I had the opportunity to test this before the days of Kool-Stop salmon
    brake pads and after, with the same results. When snow builds up on
    the inner circumference of a rim, there is almost no braking,
    regardless of how hard the brake is applied, until all the snow has
    melted and no longer acts as water supply for the brake surface. Once
    the snow is gone, braking rapidly recovers to normal.

    I found no perceptible difference between Campagnolo and Kool-Stop
    brake pads with this experiment, but I must admit that there was more
    than a year between tests. Still, zero braking is not hard to
    distinguish from braking.

    The test also made clear that when braking in rain, the brake track
    remains essentially "dry" unless the downpour splashes from the road
    onto the rim. In that event, response is poor.

    Another interesting characteristic of water is brake squeal that can
    be piercing at one time and absent at another. Kool-Stop salmon pads
    seem to be more sensitive to atmospheric humidity than some in that
    they squeal readily when first applied if they have been worn enough
    to make full contact. Once the rim warms, squealing ceases. There
    are other reasons for brake squeal, such as riding through a meadow
    with rich weed foliage (tar weed) or touching a rim with greasy hands.

    Jobst Brandt

  10. Ozark Bicycle said:

    So, Kool Stop does not know the apps for their own product? Not exactly
    confidence inspiring!

    Wow, you and Carl think a lot alike!

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 07:36:48 -0400, John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I've had a few piece of Garneau clothing and they're very good.

    Quoted message said:

    Dear John,

    Quoted message said:

    I expect that the manufacturing and the advertising departments are
    separate. Indeed, I hope so.

    Quoted message said:

    Cheers,

    Quoted message said:

    Carl Fogel

  11. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Quoted message said:
    jim beam said:


    oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike
    kool-stops.

    Wow. So all those times I hit the brakes in downpours, it was
    something other than my Kool-Stop brake shoes that stopped me!

    In retrospect, that makes sense. You see, my front cantilevers mount
    to the front of the forks, and that puts several brake parts in
    tension. As we've previously learned from j.b., that's impossible,
    too.

    I guess I've been stopping by telekinesis!

    Nah, it's just that jim beam is honor-bound to oppose anything Jobst
    approves of. He defines his anonymousness as the anti-Jobst. And by
    extension as the anti-whomever-agrees-with-Jobst on any subject. I take
    it as a bassackwards compliment from jim.

    Of course Kool-Stop salmon pads work well in wet or dry. Objective
    testing by multiple testers has shown this, but jim can't accept it
    because Jobst says they are good brake pads.

  12. Quoted message said:

    Before Campagnolo put the guide triangles on their brake pad holders,
    riders often knocked a brake pad out when dropping the bicycle onto a
    wheel. The pads could be knocked out sideways unnoticed. Those
    extensions did not come from the original design and are more
    important than most people know.

    Indeed, I used to knock out weinmann 610 pads when installing tires
    .... I remember the problem well ...

    The guide triangles jobst refers to are NO LONGER available on any
    brake calipers sold today! What has happened is that "pretend"
    triangles have been moulded into the holders, and darnit - AINT THEY
    COOL !!!

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/CampiHolder.jpg

    Here's what guide triangles WOULD look like IF they were available today:

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/weinmanncarrerabrakeblocksnoblocksbig_l.jpg

    Your tire can once again knock out the pads during wheel installation.

    To reduce pad knock-out, the pads have been THINNED dramatically - by
    about 50% !! Weinmann pads are about 6mm x 42 mm = 252mm^2. Weinmann
    pads were roughly 33% in the holder, and 66% outside the holder.

    Newer pads are about 6mm x 50mm = 300mm^2. So, brake makers have
    REDUCED pad thickness by 50%, and in return we generously received 20%
    more surface area per pad! That's why koolstop charges amazing prices
    for 'vintage' pads - the have 40% more material in them !! All of
    these innovations increase profits (and CEO bonuses!) at koolstop, no
    doubt ...

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  13. Quoted message said:
    Ozark Bicycle said:

    So, Kool Stop does not know the apps for their own product? Not exactly
    confidence inspiring!

    Wow, you and Carl think a lot alike!

    I feel sick to my stomach..... :-0

  14. Donald Gillies said:
    Quoted message said:

    Before Campagnolo put the guide triangles on their brake pad holders,
    riders often knocked a brake pad out when dropping the bicycle onto a
    wheel. The pads could be knocked out sideways unnoticed. Those
    extensions did not come from the original design and are more
    important than most people know.

    Indeed, I used to knock out weinmann 610 pads when installing tires
    ... I remember the problem well ...

    Were you in a big hurry??? Those tire guides were meant to facilitate
    fast wheel changes under race conditions.

    Quoted message said:


    The guide triangles jobst refers to are NO LONGER available on any
    brake calipers sold today! What has happened is that "pretend"
    triangles have been moulded into the holders, and darnit - AINT THEY
    COOL !!!

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/CampiHolder.jpg

    Here's what guide triangles WOULD look like IF they were available today:

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/weinmanncarrerabrakeblocksnoblocksbig_l.jpg

    Your tire can once again knock out the pads during wheel installation.

    To reduce pad knock-out, the pads have been THINNED dramatically - by
    about 50% !! Weinmann pads are about 6mm x 42 mm = 252mm^2. Weinmann
    pads were roughly 33% in the holder, and 66% outside the holder.

    Newer pads are about 6mm x 50mm = 300mm^2. So, brake makers have
    REDUCED pad thickness by 50%, and in return we generously received 20%
    more surface area per pad! That's why koolstop charges amazing prices
    for 'vintage' pads - the have 40% more material in them !! All of
    these innovations increase profits (and CEO bonuses!) at koolstop, no
    doubt ...

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  15. Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    The thicker leading edge isn't a "scraper." It's for initial alignment.
    It quickly wears off, leaving the pad with the proper toe-in. It may not
    be perfect but it's probably closer than most people would get freehand.

    Which isn't what they tell you at the trade shows, or the package. "Special
    tip removes water and mud from rims." Right on the front of the package.

    Yup. They've probably forgotten the original reason for the design,
    and/or some moron thought the "scraper" idea made good ad copy.

    Matt O.

  16. "Mike DeMicco" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote in news:94mdnfe9o-
    [email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Bruce who? writes:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either


    side

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
    grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
    pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
    rims.

    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    OK, so no pad is perfect. What's better? See
    http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/brakeshoes.htm

    --
    Mike DeMicco <[email hidden]>

    I put a set of NOS Dura-Ace brakes on one of my bikes recently. The
    Shimano DA pads have to be the worst for aluminum and grit pickup of any
    pads I've ever used.

    Chas.

  17. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    jim beam said:

    oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike


    kool-stops.

    Quoted message said:


    Wow. So all those times I hit the brakes in downpours, it was
    something other than my Kool-Stop brake shoes that stopped me!

    In retrospect, that makes sense. You see, my front cantilevers mount
    to the front of the forks, and that puts several brake parts in
    tension. As we've previously learned from j.b., that's impossible,
    too.

    I guess I've been stopping by telekinesis!

    ;-)

    - Frank Krygowski

    Gravity - the earth sucks more in certain areas!

    Chas.

  18. "Pat Lamb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    jim beam said:


    oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike


    kool-stops.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Wow. So all those times I hit the brakes in downpours, it was
    something other than my Kool-Stop brake shoes that stopped me!

    FWIW, my experience says Kool-stop pads take one extra revolution, given
    normal brake pressure, to grab when wet. There's a tale behind that
    conclusion, of course...

    My new bike came with Shimano pads; it took a couple weeks before I got
    the Kool-stop pads in, and I wasn't sure I had them installed in the
    shoes just right, so I only put one wheel's worth on for a few months.
    Now, although I ride some in rain (not as much as Seattle cyclists),
    I've only had two stops in the last three years where I wasn't sure I
    could stop in time because of water on the brakes. The worst,
    repeatable, problem I have with wet braking is when I wheel the bike
    through grass wet with heavy dew out to the road. I usually remember to
    squeegee them off at the first sign, half a block away, down a nasty 6
    foot drop. That's where I figured out the rear wheel (with the stock
    Shimano pads) started grabbing about one rev before the front wheel,
    with the Kool-stops.

    However, the one time I had wet rims AND there was a car coming, I
    grabbed the front brake with some additional authority, and the
    Kool-stop pads responded rapidly. I stayed out of the road, the
    oncoming car did not hit me, and I managed not to go over the bars.

    I've since changed the back brakes to Kool-stops because, as noted here
    previously, they don't embed grit in them and start turning gouges in
    the rim. I expect the rear rim will smooth out in a few (thousand) more
    miles from the Shimano pad abuse.

    Pat

    I haven't tried Kool-Stop pads in many years but they used to take longer
    to break into fitting the rim than many OEM pads. Was that an issue for
    you?

    Chas.

  19. "Donald Gillies" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Before Campagnolo put the guide triangles on their brake pad holders,
    riders often knocked a brake pad out when dropping the bicycle onto a
    wheel. The pads could be knocked out sideways unnoticed. Those
    extensions did not come from the original design and are more
    important than most people know.

    Indeed, I used to knock out weinmann 610 pads when installing tires
    ... I remember the problem well ...

    The guide triangles jobst refers to are NO LONGER available on any
    brake calipers sold today! What has happened is that "pretend"
    triangles have been moulded into the holders, and darnit - AINT THEY
    COOL !!!

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/CampiHolder.jpg

    Here's what guide triangles WOULD look like IF they were available


    today:

    Quoted message said:



    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/weinmanncarrerabrakeblocksnoblocksbig_l.jpg

    Quoted message said:


    Your tire can once again knock out the pads during wheel installation.

    To reduce pad knock-out, the pads have been THINNED dramatically - by
    about 50% !! Weinmann pads are about 6mm x 42 mm = 252mm^2. Weinmann
    pads were roughly 33% in the holder, and 66% outside the holder.

    Newer pads are about 6mm x 50mm = 300mm^2. So, brake makers have
    REDUCED pad thickness by 50%, and in return we generously received 20%
    more surface area per pad! That's why koolstop charges amazing prices
    for 'vintage' pads - the have 40% more material in them !! All of
    these innovations increase profits (and CEO bonuses!) at koolstop, no
    doubt ...

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

    I saw a number of Weinman pads get knocked out of the holders for whatever
    reason. It usually happened on low end bike boom bikes that had the hard
    red dried out rubber pads.

    My favorite pads were the Weinman black X-Block pads that originally came
    on their Carrera upscale side pull brakes. They were more like 8mm thick
    and had a better quality holder with tire guides on the brake arms.

    These blocks stopped better than Malthusers and most OEM block at the
    time. They worked great wet and rarely picked up aluminum or grit. I used
    to fit them into Campy NR/SR holders. I still have an old set that's been
    on a number of retro bikes.

    I never cared for old Campy NR/SR brake blocks. They always felt to hard
    and it took a lot more pressure to get them to work.

    I also used Mafac blocks on my cantis. They stopped wet or dry and if you
    kept them toed in they didn't squeal. The trick was to make sure that you
    used fresh blocks with soft rubber. They wore out fast but they stopped.

    I'm going to have to replace the brake blocks on several bikes so I
    appreciate this discussion.

    Chas.

  20. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Werehatrack said:

    On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 18:17:06 GMT, "BJaY" <[email hidden]> may

    have said:

    Hi,
    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.

    Interesting supermarket you have there. Ours comes no closer to
    supplying cycling gear than having a meager selection of power bars
    and sports drinks. (Auchan used to have some bike stuff, but it was
    [censored]...and they finally gave up and closed their stores here.)

    [snip]

    Dear Werehatrack,

    I don't know where BJay shops, but some "supermarkets" are also known
    as WalMart and KMart.

    They often sell Bell brake pad kits, but they've always been out of
    KoolStop and Campagnolo pads whenever I looked.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

    That's because they are not made in China!

    Chas.

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