BB Bother....

Tony B said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread)
but still no movement.

For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a
couple of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we
speak and I'll try again tomorrow.

It's an [censored] though, the bike is only 18 months old - do Dawes not
have anti-sieze paste on their assembly line???

I don't have access to a bench vice to be able to use the frame as a
large spanner, so if the pigging thing doesn't come out tomorrow I
don't know what I'll do. I really don't want to take it to the LBS,
but then I don't really fancy getting the hacksaw blade out either.

When I stripped my 30 year old Raleigh cup and cone BB down last year
(during the fixed project) it came apart almost with finger pressure,
despite having lived in a shed for ten years without turning a wheel.

There's progress then...

Any suggestions??

Whack end of wrench with club hammer.

~PB

Tony B said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread)
but still no movement.

For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a
couple of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we
speak and I'll try again tomorrow.

It's an [censored] though, the bike is only 18 months old - do Dawes not
have anti-sieze paste on their assembly line???

I don't have access to a bench vice to be able to use the frame as a
large spanner, so if the pigging thing doesn't come out tomorrow I
don't know what I'll do. I really don't want to take it to the LBS,
but then I don't really fancy getting the hacksaw blade out either.

When I stripped my 30 year old Raleigh cup and cone BB down last year
(during the fixed project) it came apart almost with finger pressure,
despite having lived in a shed for ten years without turning a wheel.

There's progress then...

Any suggestions??

Whack end of wrench with club hammer.

~PB

Tony Bramah said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH
thread) but still no movement.

Quoted message said:

For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a
couple of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we
speak and I'll try again tomorrow.

Quoted message said:

It's an [censored] though, the bike is only 18 months old - do Dawes not
have anti-seize paste on their assembly line???

Left hand threaded right cups are left handed so that you don't need
to tighten it until you can smell raw onions and your eyes water.
These guys didn't appreciate that and zonked your BB.

Quoted message said:

I don't have access to a bench vice to be able to use the frame as a
large spanner, so if the pigging thing doesn't come out tomorrow I
don't know what I'll do. I really don't want to take it to the LBS,
but then I don't really fancy getting the hacksaw blade out either.

Take it to a bicycle shop with good tools and they can remove it for
you. The tool clamps on with a spud extending out the left side while
the jaws are anchored in a vise. The frame is used as the wrench to
unscrew it of which you seem to be aware.

Don't use a hammer! A hacksaw would probably not do the trick, this
being a hardened bearing cup.

Quoted message said:

When I stripped my 30 year old Raleigh cup and cone BB down last
year (during the fixed project) it came apart almost with finger
pressure, despite having lived in a shed for ten years without
turning a wheel.

Quoted message said:

There's progress then...

....and then there are dolts in some shops.

Jobst Brandt

I use a long pipe to add leverage.
I would use a large washer and nut\bolt to secure the adjustable wrench to
the BB tool. Then extend the wrench lever with a pipe several feet in
length. Then (I'm not kidding) jump up and down on the pipe. That mofo BB
will come out, come hell or high water.

--
--------------------------
Andre Charlebois
BPE, MCSE4.0, CNA, A+

"Tony B" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!! However
the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had oil, heat,
extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread) but still no
movement.

For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a couple
of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we speak and
I'll try again tomorrow.

It's an [censored] though, the bike is only 18 months old - do Dawes not have
anti-sieze paste on their assembly line???

I don't have access to a bench vice to be able to use the frame as a large
spanner, so if the pigging thing doesn't come out tomorrow I don't know
what I'll do. I really don't want to take it to the LBS, but then I don't
really fancy getting the hacksaw blade out either.

When I stripped my 30 year old Raleigh cup and cone BB down last year
(during the fixed project) it came apart almost with finger pressure,
despite having lived in a shed for ten years without turning a wheel.

There's progress then...

Any suggestions??

BTW the old BB is proper shot, so it really does need swapping out.

bfn,

Tony B
(nursing a very large Jura, munching mixed nuts and re-watching Stage 15
of this year's Tour).

Tony B said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread)
but still no movement.

For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a couple
of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we speak and
I'll try again tomorrow.

It's an [censored] though, the bike is only 18 months old - do Dawes not have
anti-sieze paste on their assembly line???

I don't have access to a bench vice to be able to use the frame as a
large spanner.

Don't do it even if you had; I tried this and broke my nice Lidl vice.
Are you absolutely sure it is LH thread? I bought an alloy (supposedly
Raleigh) frame from ebay which was RH both sides. Either supposed to be
or a duff batch. I did get a refund, the poor sod was left with 30 of
them.

"MartinM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Don't do it even if you had; I tried this and broke my nice Lidl vice.

If you broke it, it wasn't a nice vice. (I accept it may have been quite
good for its price :-) )

Record - YKIMS.

cheers,
clive

MartinM said:

Tony B said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread)
but still no movement.

For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a couple
of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we speak and
I'll try again tomorrow.

It's an [censored] though, the bike is only 18 months old - do Dawes not have
anti-sieze paste on their assembly line???

I don't have access to a bench vice to be able to use the frame as a
large spanner.

Don't do it even if you had; I tried this and broke my nice Lidl vice.
Are you absolutely sure it is LH thread? I bought an alloy (supposedly
Raleigh) frame from ebay which was RH both sides. Either supposed to be
or a duff batch. I did get a refund, the poor sod was left with 30 of
them.

"Italian" threaded BB shells are RH both sides and require Italian
threaded BBs. The actual dimensions of Italian threaded BBs are
different to English, not just the handedness. Many bikes from the
continent including my handbuilt Belgian frame have RH (Italian)
threads on both side of the BB shell.

MSeries said:

MartinM said:

Tony B said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread)
but still no movement.

For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a couple
of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we speak and
I'll try again tomorrow.

It's an [censored] though, the bike is only 18 months old - do Dawes not have
anti-sieze paste on their assembly line???

I don't have access to a bench vice to be able to use the frame as a
large spanner.

Don't do it even if you had; I tried this and broke my nice Lidl vice.
Are you absolutely sure it is LH thread? I bought an alloy (supposedly
Raleigh) frame from ebay which was RH both sides. Either supposed to be
or a duff batch. I did get a refund, the poor sod was left with 30 of
them.

"Italian" threaded BB shells are RH both sides and require Italian
threaded BBs. The actual dimensions of Italian threaded BBs are
different to English, not just the handedness. Many bikes from the
continent including my handbuilt Belgian frame have RH (Italian)
threads on both side of the BB shell.

Yes I knew that, but pretty sure this was a duff English threaded. I
wonder why Italian is threaded the other way, do they only pedal
backwards like their tanks? (IGMC)

MartinM said:

Yes I knew that, but pretty sure this was a duff English threaded. I
wonder why Italian is threaded the other way, do they only pedal
backwards like their tanks? (IGMC)

Only pedal backwards on one side.

Tony B said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread)
but still no movement.

I really don't want to take it to the LBS, but then I

Quoted message said:

don't really fancy getting the hacksaw blade out either.

Go to the bike shop where they have tools for this, if it's decent
bike shop.

Quoted message said:

When I stripped my 30 year old Raleigh cup and cone BB down last year
(during the fixed project) it came apart almost with finger pressure,
despite having lived in a shed for ten years without turning a wheel.

There's progress then...

Any suggestions??

A bike shop that has the correct tool.

MSeries said:

MartinM said:

Yes I knew that, but pretty sure this was a duff English threaded. I
wonder why Italian is threaded the other way, do they only pedal
backwards like their tanks? (IGMC)

Only pedal backwards on one side.

I couldn't work out the RH side, the crank rotates clockwise so you
would think the thread would tighten that way as well; but the bearings
go the other way (or something)

"MartinM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I couldn't work out the RH side, the crank rotates clockwise so you
would think the thread would tighten that way as well; but the bearings
go the other way (or something)

Precession - see sheldon. Same as pedal threads, only the other way round.

cheers,
clive

Clive George said:

"MartinM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I couldn't work out the RH side, the crank rotates clockwise so you
would think the thread would tighten that way as well; but the bearings
go the other way (or something)

Precession - see sheldon. Same as pedal threads, only the other way round.

we ought to work out some sort of auto-direct to Sheldon for these
sorts of stoopid queries (like the little MS office assistant only with
an beard and eagle helmet!)

MartinM said:

Clive George said:

"MartinM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I couldn't work out the RH side, the crank rotates clockwise so you
would think the thread would tighten that way as well; but the
bearings go the other way (or something)

Precession - see sheldon. Same as pedal threads, only the other way
round.

we ought to work out some sort of auto-direct to Sheldon for these
sorts of stoopid queries (like the little MS office assistant only
with an beard and eagle helmet!)

Hmm, should be easy enough to do with the MSAgent API. If only I had the
inclination to do silly things like that.

http://www.microsoft.com/msagent/dev/code/TryMSAgent.asp
--
Ambrose

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread)
but still no movement.
For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a couple
of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we speak and
I'll try again tomorrow.
It's an [censored] though, the bike is only 18 months old - do Dawes not have
anti-sieze paste on their assembly line???
I don't have access to a bench vice to be able to use the frame as a
large spanner, so if the pigging thing doesn't come out tomorrow I don't
know what I'll do. I really don't want to take it to the LBS, but then I
don't really fancy getting the hacksaw blade out either.
When I stripped my 30 year old Raleigh cup and cone BB down last year
(during the fixed project) it came apart almost with finger pressure,
despite having lived in a shed for ten years without turning a wheel.
There's progress then...
Any suggestions??

Use a _GOOD_ penetrating fluid, not WD-40. Something like P-Blaster works
well.
-------------
Alex

Tony B said:

Any suggestions??

I failed.... lack of suitably long lever, best quality tool, bench vice...

so it went to the LBS today, they'll get it out for sure. At least, they
have equipment to grind it out if needs be.

Oh well, can't win them all eh?

bfn,

Tony B

Tony B said:

I got my new BB tonight on the way home, even got the right one!!
However the old one does NOT want to come out of the frame. It's had
oil, heat, extended leverage etc. (I know the drive side is LH thread)
but still no movement.

For now, I have given up - the (good quality) BB tool is currently
retained in the LH side BB cup with the aid of a crank bolt and a couple
of large washers, penetrating oil should be seeping in as we speak and
I'll try again tomorrow.

Quoted message said:

Any suggestions??

What's worked for me is (with the BB tool retained with bolt as you
have) using a large pipe wrench on the BB tool flats. Pipe wrenches are
cheap and handy tools to have.

The plot thickens.

LBS called me to say good news/bad news:

GN=BB out

BN=BB was cross threaded on installation (i.e. by Dawes' Asian assy shop).

So, it's as good as buggered...

However, a call to Dawes and it /seems/ as though I'll be getting a new
frame, however the actual logistics of getting the frame back to
Barnsley, what state of build it should be in and who is paying for what
escape me at the mo. Dawes seem keen to do the right thing though,
hopefully it will all be in place in time for the Oh-dah on 16/10 out of
Holmes Chapel (to say nothing of me getting to jbex every day).

LBS want fifteen quid currently; Allens (the orig. supplier) advise I
should strip the frame down or incur their build-up charges, Dawes had
closed for the evening by the time I was ready to speak to them again.

Fingers crossed though, barring a bit of [censored] re. frame movements it
looks like they are going to be Top People.

bfn,

Tony B

Tony B said:

Allens (the orig. supplier) advise I
should strip the frame down or incur their build-up charges,

I don't think they're actually allowed to do that in the EU. Doesn't mean
they won't do it, of course.

Jasper