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arguments for a 26" muni

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rec.sport.unicycling
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10 April 2008
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catinabag1
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  1. there have been many threads about this and they all say something
    different, so i would like to collect all these thoughts and put them
    on one thread because i know there are several people on this forum
    including myself who are considering a 26" muni. so don't get mad about
    another post about which size muni to get.

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  2. Great Thread! I've also been trying to decide between a 24" and 26"
    Muni. I kinda want a 26" but everyone says that extra 2" isn't worth it
    and just adds extra weight and stuff. I've only really heard
    saskatchewanian saying good stuff about them...

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  3. i don't know anything about 26ers but what i'm thinking is it's easier
    to roll over bigger objects with 26ers. yes you will have extra weight
    but i think being able to power through more things will be an
    advantage.

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  4. The bigger the wheel, the hard to keep it under control. This is why I
    hate 24" and 26" for muni. I'd rather go with my 19" and go down some
    incredibly tech run (screw the long boring stuff).

    24": more controllable, more hop-able
    26": better for rolling over stuff.

    My 2c

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  5. I have a 26 inch Surly w/KH hub and cranks. I find that those two
    inches make me significantly faster than most people on 24 inch
    unicycles. I think skill and technique get you over tough obstacles
    more than an extra two inches, though.
    I love the endomorph tire for sand and snow, but I wouldn't run it on
    dirt anymore.
    I think Tellurider is also a 26er fan, but I've never ridden with him.
    When I ride 24 inchers they just feel less substantial to me, but then
    again it is so much about what you are used to, how often you ride and
    your style.

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  6. Danni said:

    The bigger the wheel, the hard to keep it under control. This is why I
    hate 24" and 26" for muni. I'd rather go with my 19" and go down some
    incredibly tech run (screw the long boring stuff).

    Sounds more like natural trials than Muni to me.

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  7. Danni sounds like someone who doesn't know how to ride MUni.

    24 vs. 26 doesn't really matter much, except in terms of what's
    available on the market. The Nimbus 26 is a reasonable starter MUni;
    KH doesn't make a 26", so if you want a top-end MUni, you have to
    decide between 24" and 29". I have a 24" and a 26" and I never ride
    the 26", mostly because it weighs probably two pounds more. But in
    terms of what I can do on it, I ride pretty much the same terrain on
    the two unis, and my speed is not noticeably different (the 26" has
    170mm cranks, the 24" 150mm).

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  8. tholub said:

    Danni sounds like someone who doesn't know how to ride MUni.

    24 vs. 26 doesn't really matter much, except in terms of what's
    available on the market. The Nimbus 26 is a reasonable starter MUni;
    KH doesn't make a 26", so if you want a top-end MUni, you have to
    decide between 24" and 29". I have a 24" and a 26" and I never ride
    the 26", mostly because it weighs probably two pounds more. But in
    terms of what I can do on it, I ride pretty much the same terrain on
    the two unis, and my speed is not noticeably different (the 26" has
    170mm cranks, the 24" 150mm).

    what brands are your 24" and 26"? i will mostly be riding trails and
    stuff and when there's anything uber extreme i've got my kh trials. so
    i'm thinking a 26" would be aight.

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  9. I think I'll go for 24" just for the added control, less weight, easier
    to hop, closer to the ground etc. I will be riding quite technical
    downhill trials where a 26" would probably just be a bit big. I have
    ridden 26" munis and 24" free style unicycles and the 2" does seem to
    make a difference. 26" is a good compromise between technical and XC I
    guess, and it's way easier to buy 26" parts than 24.

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  10. I'm a big fan of the 26". A 26x3" is very nearly the same diameter as a
    29er but is much more stable - I find 29ers very skittish on the rocky
    xc trails I usually ride, and even on forest singletrack I reckon I'm
    faster on the 26 (especially when a bit tired). I use my 26 (a Nimbus
    with 150s) for everything from commuting (if I want to take a more
    interesting route than I'm happy with on the coker) to xc racing. The
    extra inch of pedal clearance over a 24 is very useful as well.

    A 24" is probably a better choice if you're into the more
    jumpy/droppy/trialsy end of muni rather than the xc end, just for the
    slightly lower gear and slightly lighter weight. Of if you're very
    short of course.

    Rob

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  11. I've got both a 26" (Yuni frame w/ 26x3" Gazz) and 24" (KH frame w/
    24x3" Gazz) and I must say, for me, I keep coming back to my KH24 over
    and over again. I've done plenty of "extreme" muni with the KH24,
    which is far superior, in terms of control, to the 26". Mainly I do
    longer distance muni, not the same thing as XC, and still I've found I
    prefer the KH24 to the 26". For me, as a runner, spinning a lot isn't
    a problem so I don't mind the 24" on easier terrain. Sure I'm not
    going to be as fast as the 26" but most of the trails I ride would be
    considered intermediate to advanced so the 24" shines by being more
    nimble and having more "pop" so to speak. It's all a matter of
    personal preference really, I've done a 50 mile trail ride on the KH24
    and numerous trail rides over 15 miles. In all cases I made as good a
    time as my friend on his KH29 with 26x3 Gazz?? So given a choice all
    I'd need is my 24"...

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  12. catinabag1 said:

    what brands are your 24" and 26"? i will mostly be riding trails and
    stuff and when there's anything uber extreme i've got my kh trials. so
    i'm thinking a 26" would be aight.

    My 26" is a Yuni (similar to the one unicycle.com still has--technology
    circa 2003), and my 24" is a 2005 KH.

    A 26" would work fine, but the KH is a better unicycle than either the
    Nimbus or the Yuni, and you can't get a KH in 26". If you're not going
    to ride extreme stuff, I would recommend a 29er over either 24" or 26".

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  13. SkierAlex said:

    I have ridden 26" munis and 24" free style unicycles and the 2" does
    seem to make a difference.

    A 24" freestyle tyre is uch smaller than a 24" muni tyre, the
    difference between 24 and 26 munis will be far than you experienced.
    Infact the 24"x3" tyres have a diametre very close to normal width 26"
    tyres.

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  14. rob.northcott said:

    I'm a big fan of the 26". A 26x3" is very nearly the same diameter as a
    29er but is much more stable - I find 29ers very skittish on the rocky
    xc trails I usually ride, and even on forest singletrack I reckon I'm
    faster on the 26 (especially when a bit tired). I use my 26 (a Nimbus
    with 150s) for everything from commuting (if I want to take a more
    interesting route than I'm happy with on the coker) to xc racing. The
    extra inch of pedal clearance over a 24 is very useful as well.

    A 24" is probably a better choice if you're into the more
    jumpy/droppy/trialsy end of muni rather than the xc end, just for the
    slightly lower gear and slightly lighter weight. Of if you're very
    short of course.

    Rob

    I agree completely with rob. w/ the 24", you're halfway between
    distance muni and trials, i might lean more that direction if i had
    access to more northshore style manmade trails. the northeast is known
    for it's rocky, bumpy trails, and my 26" rolls through the singletrack
    better over the constant bumps, imho. even in steep terrain, 165s/170s
    are too long. 150s allow for better speed, while still getting you up
    the hills.

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  15. OneWheelLess said:

    I agree completely with rob. w/ the 24", you're halfway between distance
    muni and trials, i might lean more that direction if i had access to
    more northshore style manmade trails. the northeast is known for it's
    rocky, bumpy trails, and my 26" rolls through the singletrack better
    over the constant bumps, imho. even in steep terrain.

    At Moab (the rockiest, bumpiest terrain anywhere), probably 95% of the
    riders were on 24" or smaller unicycles.

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  16. When comparing 24" vs. 26" you really have to be thinking in terms of
    specific tire/tire sizes. A nice 24" downhill tire (fat) is usually
    just a tad under 26" diameter. That's probably why they were made as
    24" in the first place, so they could fit into more mountain bike
    frames when they first came out. So when considering a 26" wheel, are
    you thinking in terms of "typical" MTB tires or fatties like the
    Gazzalodi (over 28" diameter)?

    Here's how it works out for me:
    - IMHO, 20" absolutely sucks for trail riding. The little wheel sticks
    in stuff it should roll over, and you don't get anywhere fast. However
    if you're into Trials and jumping all over everything, it's the size to
    use. They are very popular on the trails at Moab or MUni Weekend for
    people who like all the side challenges along the trails.
    - My 24" (Wilder frame, Profile crankset, Sun DoubleWide rim, Gazz
    tire) is the bomb-proof machine that's best suited to the hardest
    trails (like Moab), where I'm not afraid to pound on it and it still
    covers ground at a reasonable rate.
    - My 29" (GB4 frame, various square-taper cranks, rims and tires) is
    great for faster trails with light to medium technical stuff, but I've
    popped my tire twice in remote areas and never felt as secure on it on
    the gnarly stuff. I used it for the Tahoe Rim Trail at the last MUni
    Weekend there, where it was great for most of the ride, but no fun on a
    few of the technical spots where I was afraid to damage it (or me). If
    I want fun on the technical parts of a trail the answer is simple: my
    24" (which is actually a 26" wheel).
    - And let's not forget 36", which is a really fun wheel size for non-
    or lightly-technical terrain. It flies, and it's really fun to see what
    you can do on such a big, heavy wheel!

    So. What kind of riding do you want to do, and what *tire diameter* do
    you think will be best for you?

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  17. I like my 26" more for Muni because its noticably faster than my 24",
    and seems to take bumps alot smoother. it really is a tank. and with
    simply switching to smaller cranks i can pedal faster and its alot
    better for long distance than the 24. I just like it better.

    And the whole 24" is better for technical is a bunch of [censored]. once you
    get used to the 26's handling, you can do everything the 24 can. the
    difference between the 24 and 26 is too small to effect your technical
    ridability for muni. So i just take a 26". faster.

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  18. so what i'm thinking after all these opinions is ill go with the 26" to
    start. that way i have something between a technical muni and an xc
    muni. then when i get enough money i'll get a kh 24 for the technical
    spots. then i have a nice commuter/xc muni and a technical muni. plus
    for the [censored] around where i live nothing is uber extreme anyway. any
    thoughts on that?

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  19. 29ers ftw.

    29er muni is awesomely fun because you can go so fast and roll over
    everything (downside is that there are not high volume tyres for 29ers,
    but still a lot of good muni tyres). Obviously this depends on what
    type of Muni you do. So far, i've yet to find anything that warrants a
    smaller than 29" wheel to tackle (although I can think of things...
    that I probably wouldn't try regardless of my wheel size).

    In essence an 26" is a compromise between technical and more cross
    country-styled Muni, so my conclusion is that it all depends on what
    you're going to be riding on (or where...) - is that not obvious? :o

    The bigger the wheel, the more hardcore the rider :p .

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  20. I ride a lot less these days than I used to. I used to ride "off road"
    on a 36, a 26 and a 24. There are noticeable differences even between
    the 24 and the 26.

    The sizes are nominal: a 26 may be have a slightly smaller or larger
    diameter than 26 inches, depending on the tyre choice. However, if
    you take the two measurements as exact, then a 26 is 26/24 as big as a
    24; that is 8.3% bigger.

    8.3% is less than the typical difference between gear ratios on a
    bicycle. When I had a touring bike, I set it us so that the gears were
    as near as possible to 10% apart.

    So in a sense, the choice between 24 and 26 is less significant than
    the choice between 7th gear and 8th gear on a road bike: which is
    better depends on the situation.

    However, it isn't that simple. The larger wheel rolls over stuff
    better. This is particularly important if you ride "off piste" through
    long grass, deep mud or undergrowth. A Coker will ignore stuff that
    would stop a 24 in its tracks. A 26 will "smooth out" stuff that a 24
    would make into hard work.

    On firm hard track, the 26 will be about 8% faster (assuming identical
    cranks and cadence) and that extra speed is noticeable on a long trip.
    It also gives you more momentum, and you can sometimes "rush" a short
    steep obstacle on a 26 when the 24 would stall just before the top.
    There is a double effect here because the 26 can maintain its speed
    better over small bumps that might put you off your stride on a 24, so
    the 26 is less likely to stall during the "rush".

    But the 24 wins out on tight turns on winding tracks between trees or
    rocks. It feels very much more manoevreable.

    Assuming identical cranks, the 26 will have an extra inch of ground
    clearance, which makes a real difference to whether or not you suffer
    the indignity of a pedal strike-induced UPD.

    On the other hand, assuming identical cranks, the 24 will be easier on
    the knees on steep descents. It will be that bit easier to idle or
    reverse, and will generally be more responsible to sudden attempts to
    change speed. The feeling I have is that the 26 is great while you can
    keep it rolling, but once you get bogged down, the 24 is easier to
    restart.

    Freemounting the 24 is far easier - a big difference if you are tired -
    and UPDs are slightly less painful because you are generally travelling
    more slowly and nearer to the ground. This is mainly psychological,
    because the extra height of the 26 is only an inch, but there is
    definitely an effect there.

    The 26 has a wider range of tyres because 26 is a common mountain bike
    tyre size. However, the 24" tyres tend to be more specialised with
    higher volume.

    Weight is an issue. 8% larger diameter means 8% heavier rim and tyre
    (other things being equal).

    On the whole, I'd prefer 24 for MUni, and 26 for cross country, but it
    is only a question of emphasis, not a fundamental difference.

    --
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