anti cotterless

WOW!!! 5 ft you must have great forum, to not shatter tha hub!

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redhead said:

WOW!!! 5 ft you must have great forum, to not shatter tha hub!

I kinda think splined is overkill for most people.
The only hub I've ever damaged was a -cottered- hub, and upgrading to
cotterless made it string enough for anything I needed.

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i've completely bent the axle of a cotterless hub, and the highest drops
i had done at that stage were up to 1ft - and i weigh hardly anything.
splined hubs, however, are indestructible (at least that's how i've
found the qu-ax)

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I tore the end clean off a UDC hub doing nothing bigger than 1 1/2 foot
jumps, took a while but over time the ends twist off, Kh splines have
never given me any troubles.

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It slowly builds up over time. The more and more drops you do that are
that large, the more bent and weird it gets, until it dies.

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I was one of the peole that got to the point to where I was breaking
equipment all the time, evne with excellent dropping technique, so I
upgraded, and since then have slightly bent a set of cranks on a 7
footer, but thats it.

However, when riding a profile crankset vs a cotterles square taper
hub, you can feel the difference in strenght just while riding, and the
solid feeling is what I need for muni.

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I think that it is a waste of money to spend anything on a uni that is
not splined if you are planning on doing anything over 12". Cottered
cranks have their place - but not on a trials un.

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The standard square taper cotterless hub and crank assembly gets to be a
liability for aggressive riding like muni and trials. The hubs aren't
strong enough because the diameter is too small. And you have constant
problems with the cranks working loose. Unicycling puts a lot of back
pressure on the cranks that doesn't happen on bikes and that seems to
make the cranks want to come loose. Anyone who does muni with square
taper cotterless cranks eventually learns that they need to check the
cranks for tightness before a ride and also carry a tool with them
during the ride to tighten the cranks. That gets to be a pain and a
reliability problem. Go on a large group muni ride where people are
using cotterless cranks and it is very likely that at least one person
will have a loose crank during the ride and need someone to tighten it
for them. If they are really unlucky they'll actually end up loosing
the nut that holds the crank on.

Square tapered cotterless cranks are also not ideal if you like to
change cranks a lot. It's not good to change aluminum cranks
repeatedly because every time you change the cranks you may end up
pushing the cranks further onto the taper. Eventually making the
cranks loose. Every time you change the cranks you also run the risk
of not tightening them properly so they end up working loose during a
ride. On a bike you tend to install a set of cranks and leave them be.
On a unicycle you tend to try different crank lengths and it's not
unusual to change cranks regularly.

Splined cranks address those problems. They are very reliable. They
aren't going to work loose during a ride. They are stronger and
stiffer. Changing cranks can be easier (brand new Profiles can be a
[censored] to change but once they're used a bit they become easy to
change). For me the reliability alone is worth makes the splined
cranks worth it. I no longer worry about a loose crank during a ride.
If I take a trip with my muni I no longer have to worry that a day's
ride may be wasted or ruined because of a loose crank. The added
strength is also worth it.

Bigger people need stronger cranks and hubs. A 200+ pound adult doing
muni or trials is going to need stronger equipment than a 100 pound kid
riding the same trails and doing the same jumps and drops. There are
some people who are just hard on equipment due to technique, the way
they ride and what they're willing to do. They need stronger
equipment.

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splined is just plain better all round.... my experience-200lbs+square
taper(cotterless) hub+12" drop=no more cotterless hub

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One thing that I don't think has been mentioned yet is that (I would
assume) there is less force on the cranks of a trials bike than a
unicycle for a given drop height. On a bike there are so many more
angles to work with to help reduce the force of a drop, and I'd imagine
that a good deal of the force that would be applied directly to the hub
and cranks of a unicycle is instead being absorbed in the frame,
handlebars, brakes, rear wheel, and body of the rider.

That's all purely speculation though...

Andrew

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after hearing all of this i think that i probably will move up to the
splined, im getting a job that will pay nothing so i wont even have
enough to buy the onza one after im done. Does anybody know a good
place to get a 36 spoke splined for a reasonable price? If I half to
ill buy it off of unicycle.com but id really rather not.

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unign
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unign said:

...at what point do you move up?

When it breaks.

Not necessarily the first one, but when your axles start breaking on a
regular basis, you'll know it's time to move up instead of having to
rebuild wheels all the time. I don't like building wheels, or waiting
while my uni is out of commission. I prefer being as maintenance-free
as possible.

If your axles don't break, or break very infrequently, you may be fine
with a square taper hub. Those are fine for most unicycle, just not the
ones we really jump on a lot.

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