Mr R@t (2.30zi) said:Quoted message said:Remember that aluminium alloy screws are much weaker than steel ones,
so use them for light-duty things only. Afaik, all anodised screws
are Al.
so what is "heavy" and "light" duty parts on a bike? Further research
seemed to show that the garys were using these bolts on all sorts of
bits of their cars and motorbikes including what I would expect to be
safety critical parts.
Like what? I'd be very surprised if they were used on truly safety-critical
parts where the bolts are highly stressed, but I know little about cars and
motorcycles.
Quoted message said:OK they are by no means suitable role models
but I don't read about cars falling apart because of inappropriate
use of these bolts and here in Suffolk I /would/ have read something
by now if this was happening regularly...
Let's stick to bicycles, which actually take quite a lot of stress.....
Quoted message said:Does that mean that its inadvisable to use these for much else than
the waterbottle mounting cage?
Threads seizing and heads and threads stripping are another couple of issues
besides sheer strength and fatigue resistance. It's just not possible to
get alloy bolts as tight, and having the bolts tight is the best way of
securing components on the bike.
The front of a handlebar stem would be a [censored] place for alloy bolts, for
example, because that area gets well stressed. Titanium is a compromise
weight weenies go for there, but they're boring in colour.
The steerer clamp bolts and top bolt on ahead stems aren't so critical,
though.
I do have alloy bolts retaining my square-taper cranks on one bike, but I'm
not sure that's sensible (Jobst Brandt says not, see Google Groups).
Alloy chainring bolts are OK, and come in pretty colours.
~PB