Annoying loose crank...

how tight did you tighten it?

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Well, just so it didnt wiggle any more... can one tighten one's cranks
too tight?

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this same thing is happening to my torker DX. it hasnt been getting
worse, but it apparently once got so loose the crank almost fell off.

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iridemymuni said:

we get snow in australia, we've got like 8 different places to ski, 5 of
them are absoloutly sh**

'**my sick gallery**'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/?g2_itemId=219882)
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Basically i tighten the thing until it feels nice and stable, wack the
little cap back on and off i go, until a few hours later i hear a
little knocking sound, and yep! sure enough the crank's wobbling around
like a plate of jelly in a Volvo. Oh, and somtimes the other one does
it too... i guess its just coz its a [censored] unicycle, but if theres an
easy solution to this problem id love to hear it... hell, even if its a
hard solution, lets have it.

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nonsense, tighten it untill it cant go any tighter, tighten the pinch
bolt in the same fashion... and when the uni gets older it will stop
playing funny games.
get your self a big allen key like 10 or 15 cm long so you can get some
good torque on it and tighten it till your hand hurts 😄

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dont do that ^^^ ! you could easily strip the axle nut (or bolt,
whichever you have) which would render the uni -totally- useless.

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iridemymuni said:

we get snow in australia, we've got like 8 different places to ski, 5 of
them are absoloutly sh**

'**my sick gallery**'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/?g2_itemId=219882)
'COOL STUFF' (http://www.kontraband.com)
'80,000' (http://tinyurl.com/zv75x)
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ice_cold_uni6 said:

dont do that ^^^ ! you could easily strip the axle nut (or bolt,
whichever you have) which would render the uni -totally- useless.

oh fooy, tighten tighten tighen, but dont over tighten. i have never
been able to over tighten! haha

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Well, i have tightened it as hard as i can, but at the same time being
careful NOT to strip it - also I dont really know what a pinch bolt
is...

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johnson_johnson said:

Well, i have tightened it as hard as i can, but at the same time being
careful NOT to strip it - also I dont really know what a pinch bolt
is...

thats cuz youre riding some [censored] unicycle w/ out splined cranks.

id say just screw it. go off a bunch of huge drops and jumps, just push
the uni to its limit. then when it breaks get a new one. i bent my CX
so much its hardly rideable.

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iridemymuni said:

we get snow in australia, we've got like 8 different places to ski, 5 of
them are absoloutly sh**

'**my sick gallery**'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/?g2_itemId=219882)
'COOL STUFF' (http://www.kontraband.com)
'80,000' (http://tinyurl.com/zv75x)
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Haha... ok ill ride it to the ground then... there's obviously no hope
for it😄

Thanks for the advice peeps

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go for a torker DX or a nimbus hoppley for your next one. its a lil
expensive (the DX) but itl last a realy long time. a pretty good
discount is available on ebay. its the cheapest splined uni you can buy
(stock)

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iridemymuni said:

we get snow in australia, we've got like 8 different places to ski, 5 of
them are absoloutly sh**

'**my sick gallery**'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/?g2_itemId=219882)
'COOL STUFF' (http://www.kontraband.com)
'80,000' (http://tinyurl.com/zv75x)
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johnson_johnson said:

Well, i have tightened it as hard as i can, but at the same time being
careful NOT to strip it - also I dont really know what a pinch bolt
is...

Your cranks don't have a pinch bolt. Some splined cranks have a pinch
bolt.

Here's the procedure to make sure your square taper cranks are tight
and stay tight: 'Square Taper Crank Installation and Maintenance'
(http://tinyurl.com/blcbl)

The big thing in the above procedure is to use a torque wrench. The
torque wrench will let you know that it is tight enough without being
too tight (and risking a broken hub). You can do it without a torque
wrench, but it requires some experience to know how tight to go by
hand. I go to 30 to 35 foot-pounds when using a torque wrench on a
standard square taper hub.

30 foot-pounds of torque is like hanging a 15 pound weight at the end
of a wrench with a 2 foot long handle. Or a 30 pound weight at the end
of a wrench with a 1 foot long handle. So if your wrench has a handle
that is 1 foot long just pretend that you are picking up a 30 pound
dumbbell while turning the wrench.

The other trick is to use a little bit of blue (medium strength)
Loctite. That will keep the nut/bolt from loosening on its own due to
vibration and other movement.

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ice_cold_uni6 said:

go for a torker DX or a nimbus hoppley for your next one. its a lil
expensive (the DX) but itl last a realy long time. a pretty good
discount is available on ebay. its the cheapest splined uni you can buy
(stock)

Unless you happen to be in Australia. Shipping a unicycle to Australia
is very expensive.

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Is something like this suitable?

http://www.jugglingstore.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=312

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john_childs said:

Your cranks don't have a pinch bolt. Some splined cranks have a pinch
bolt.

Here's the procedure to make sure your square taper cranks are tight
and stay tight: 'Square Taper Crank Installation and Maintenance'
(http://tinyurl.com/blcbl)

The big thing in the above procedure is to use a torque wrench. The
torque wrench will let you know that it is tight enough without being
too tight (and risking a broken hub). You can do it without a torque
wrench, but it requires some experience to know how tight to go by
hand. I go to 30 to 35 foot-pounds when using a torque wrench on a
standard square taper hub.

30 foot-pounds of torque is like hanging a 15 pound weight at the end
of a wrench with a 2 foot long handle. Or a 30 pound weight at the end
of a wrench with a 1 foot long handle. So if your wrench has a handle
that is 1 foot long just pretend that you are picking up a 30 pound
dumbbell while turning the wrench.

The other trick is to use a little bit of blue (medium strength)
Loctite. That will keep the nut/bolt from loosening on its own due to
vibration and other movement.

Wow, how detailed is that! Perfect, thanks - that should get me a bit
more life out of my current uni - at least till i get a bit more
$$$...

Although with uni (the uni where you learn stuff, that is) next year, i
havent got a hope in hell of having very much money to throw around any
time soon...🙄

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johnson_johnson said:

Is something like this suitable?

http://www.jugglingstore.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=312

Yeah, that's a good uni, and a good price, but they sure do talk it up.
I mean, it not's the ULTIMATE uni by far... 🙄

TheWebpage said:

An indestructible masterpiece, made for trial riding and for MUni. The
heavy duty DX is nothing short of top of the line.

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I know Sheldon is the best authority, but cranks loosen up a little with
a few minutes of riding. I think the cranks get seated on the cranks
with initial use. I'd suggest torque the bolts, ride for a few minutes
to seat the cranks, then re-torque. If you use loctite (I don‘t),
after the re-torque, then remove the crank bolts and apply the loctite,
and torque again.

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Ken ... a recreational unicycle enthusiast... Please wear a helmet!
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Why hasn't anyone suggested that as the left one comes undone all the
time, and the right one comes undone a bit, that perhaps their on the
wrong sides? Left crank on right side and versa visa...

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AscenXion

yoopers said:

You've obviously shown your colors and proven that only a narrow band
of people can exist in your world where you are an intolerant god,
AscenXion.

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AscenXion said:

Why hasn't anyone suggested that as the left one comes undone all the
time, and the right one comes undone a bit, that perhaps their on the
wrong sides? Left crank on right side and versa visa...

I havent actually ever removed the cranks myself - do think its
possible that a production fault got them 'round the wrong way?

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