Quoted message said:Hi all,
In the spirit of "more is NOT always better" I'm considering removing
my front derailleur and replacing my DuraAce 7410 series 8-speed cranks
with my Campy Record track crank. I'll be running my DuraAce 9-speed
rear setup for now. I have two basic questions:
I did this last year on my commuter bike. Now I run a single DT lever
and read der. only.
I don't know how many teeth are on your DA big or small rings v. the
Campy single ring, but if either of the two DA rings are close to what
you want' the following may be an option.
Move the large chainring on the existing DuraAce cranks to the smaller
side of the spider (or middle position if this is a triple, which is
unlikely), or remove the large ring and use the small only. Use
shorter stack bolts to hold the one remaining ring there. Seemed to
work better for me with the one ring in the small ring position, rather
than the big ring position.
Quoted message said:Are there any issues with chainline? Does anyone know what BB spindle
length to use to get the best chainline?
If you do the above, you won't need to change the current BB arangement
at all.
Quoted message said:Will there be any issues with throwing the chain? If so, does anyone
know of any minimal, elegant solutions? (I've considered and decided
against using a TA 'cross-style crank with it's two chain guards.)
Yep, and it can be b****y dangerous too. Didn't seem to be related to
shifting, or to being in the top or bottom of the casette at the back -
just threw the chain from time to time.
However, I was running road rings, which are designed (ramps, pins
etc.) to pick up and throw the chain quickly and easily. You may have
a better time with the track ring on the Campy cranks. On the other
hand, the track ring may be cut to work really well with a dead
straight chainline and taut chain (per a track bike), and may be lousy
with the looser chain tension and offset chain line on the 1x9.
Probably gotta try it to find out...
I ended up buying two cheap clear plastic chainguards, and fitting them
back to back around the remaining chainring. Worked a charm, and as it
happened, soaked up the extra length in my existing tower bolts, so it
turned out to be a really cheap (2x€3 for the chainguards) and lazy
(didn't even have to pull the crank, never mind the bottom bracket)
solution. Looks OK too.
Quoted message said:
Thanks,
Rob
Just throwing out an option for consideration, HTH,
bookieb.