The bottom bracket on my mtb is in need of replacement. It has Alivio MC10 components. Perusing through my latest Nashbar catalog shows a section of BB's for mtb's and a section for road bikes. My Performance catalog doesn't differentiate. Is there a difference between mtb BB's & road BB's? My BB is 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle. Will any 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle work? Any BB recommendations for a bike to be used for commuting? I need ruggedness. Light weight is not critical.
The bottom bracket on my mtb is in need of replacement. It has Alivio MC10 components. Perusing through my latest Nashbar catalog shows a section of BB's for mtb's and a section for road bikes. My Performance catalog doesn't differentiate. Is there a difference between mtb BB's & road BB's? My BB is 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle. Will any 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle work? Any BB recommendations for a bike to be used for commuting? I need ruggedness. Light weight is not critical.
Thanks.
Billy
Most MTB use 73 mm bottom bracket shells, so make sure to check that. English threading is most common, but you should also check that. 113 length should be duplicated, and the taper type should also. If you can afford a Phil Wood, they are great! They are heavy and quite expensive... and require a unique tool.
The bottom bracket on my mtb is in need of replacement. It has Alivio MC10 components. Perusing through my latest Nashbar catalog shows a section of BB's for mtb's and a section for road bikes. My Performance catalog doesn't differentiate. Is there a difference between mtb BB's & road BB's? My BB is 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle. Will any 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle work? Any BB recommendations for a bike to be used for commuting? I need ruggedness. Light weight is not critical.
Thanks.
Billy
As long as you sure of the 68 and the 113, I'd get either a Shimano UN-52/3 or UN-72/3. The UN-72/3 is lighter. I've had no problems with either one.
The difference between an MTB and a road BB? Although there may be marketing arguments for any difference, it's mainly just where you would most likely use it. If it fits, don't worry where Nashbar wants to keep it in its catalog.
The bottom bracket on my mtb is in need of replacement. It has Alivio
MC10
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components. Perusing through my latest Nashbar catalog shows a section
of
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BB's for mtb's and a section for road bikes. My Performance catalog
doesn't
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differentiate. Is there a difference between mtb BB's & road BB's? My
BB
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Quoted message said:
is 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle. Will any 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle work? Any BB recommendations for a bike to be used for commuting? I need ruggedness. Light weight is not critical.
Thanks.
Billy
As long as you sure of the 68 and the 113, I'd get either a Shimano UN-52/3 or UN-72/3. The UN-72/3 is lighter. I've had no problems with either one.
The difference between an MTB and a road BB? Although there may be marketing arguments for any difference, it's mainly just where you would most likely use it. If it fits, don't worry where Nashbar wants to keep it in its catalog.
That's kinda what I thought. It seemed like any 68 x 113 tapered shaft BB should work.
I know that the UN-72/3's are lighter and have hollow shafts. But what is the difference between a UN-52 and a UN-53? Or, for that matter a UN-72 vs a UN-73?
"Billy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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The bottom bracket on my mtb is in need of replacement. It has Alivio MC10 components. Perusing through my latest Nashbar catalog shows a section of BB's for mtb's and a section for road bikes. My Performance catalog doesn't differentiate. Is there a difference between mtb BB's & road BB's?
No.
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My BB is 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle. Will any 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle work?
Yes.
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Any BB recommendations for a bike to be used for commuting? I need ruggedness. Light weight is not critical.
A $20 Shimano BB would be an upgrade from what you have, it'll go for years.
"S o r n i" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
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daveornee said:
Billy said:
The bottom bracket on my mtb is in need of replacement. It has Alivio MC10 components. {snip}
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If you can afford a Phil Wood, they are great! They are heavy and quite expensive... and require a unique tool.
A guy with an Alivio-equipped commuter bike needs a new BB, and you recommend a Phil Wood?
Bill "sort of like wearing Armani to a potluck" S.
I was thinking the same thing. I don't think I really need a Phil Wood BB on a $300 bike. But... I'm curious. If Phil Wood BB's are so expensive, why are they heavy? Usually, the cost of a cycling component is inversely proportional to it's weight.
nobody-<< But... I'm curious. If Phil Wood BB's are so expensive, why are they heavy? Usually, the cost of a cycling component is inversely proportional to it's weight. >><BR><BR>
Yep, in this screwy world of bike stuff, lighter=better when lighter is really just......lighter.
Phil does something else some bike stuff makers haven't figured out, how to make something VERY durable AND serviceable, the best of both worlds.
Geee, a Phill BB is about 100 grams or so heavier than a light and not so reliable one...3 ounces, a powerbar,
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
Yep, in this screwy world of bike stuff, lighter=better when lighter is really just......lighter.
Phil does something else some bike stuff makers haven't figured out, how to make something VERY durable AND serviceable, the best of both worlds.
Geee, a Phill BB is about 100 grams or so heavier than a light and not so reliable one...3 ounces, a powerbar,
That is all very true, but the flip side is that you can't add 3oz to everything, or you actually will have a very heavy bike. I followed that philosophy on my MTB and ended up at a disappointing 29lbs, for a bike that in theory could weigh less than 25. It is 100% reliable though. Never have any problems...umm...eh...except with the ultra-light tires (and sometimes tubes).
I know that the UN-72/3's are lighter and have hollow shafts. But what is the difference between a UN-52 and a UN-53? Or, for that matter a UN-72 vs a UN-73?
Thanks.
Billy
I think that the '3's come with a resin retaining cup for the left side and the right side retaining cup is built into the BB itself, not a separate piece. For the 73s, at least. Something similar for the 53s? Either way, basically the same thing except the '3's are the most recent version. I have a UN-71, 72, and 73 on three different bikes and I notice no difference. And the 71 is going fine after eight years or so.
The bottom bracket on my mtb is in need of replacement. It has Alivio MC10 components. Perusing through my latest Nashbar catalog shows a section of BB's for mtb's and a section for road bikes. My Performance catalog doesn't differentiate. Is there a difference between mtb BB's & road BB's? My BB is 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle. Will any 68 x 113 with a square tapered axle work? Any BB recommendations for a bike to be used for commuting? I need ruggedness. Light weight is not critical.
Yes, but get a Shimano one rather than a Campagnolo one. The taper is slightly different. The "MTB" ones are probably just longer BBs, designed for a triple chainset.
dan-<< I think that the '3's come with a resin retaining cup for the left side and the right side retaining cup is built into the BB itself, not a separate piece. For the 73s >><BR><BR>
That is correct. right cupo now part of the BB, cannot take it off. hollow axle, not solid UN-53. Too bad, cuz now ya can't swap cups.
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
nospam-<< That is all very true, but the flip side is that you can't add 3oz to
everything, or you actually will have a very heavy bike. I followed that philosophy on my MTB and ended up at a disappointing 29lbs, for a bike that in theory could weigh less than 25. >><BR><BR>
4 pounds don't make a difference. I use Phil on my road bike and it weighs 19.5 pounds. Losing 3 pounds on my bike with me on it means nothing. Weight on a bike is WAY overemphasized....
Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
nospam-<< That is all very true, but the flip side is that you can't add 3oz to
everything, or you actually will have a very heavy bike. I followed that philosophy on my MTB and ended up at a disappointing 29lbs, for a bike that in theory could weigh less than 25. >><BR><BR>
4 pounds don't make a difference. I use Phil on my road bike and it weighs 19.5 pounds. Losing 3 pounds on my bike with me on it means nothing. Weight on a bike is WAY overemphasized....
I agree it is mostly ego, bragging rights, and one-upmanship. If you are a pro in top condition and looking to gain a few seconds per hour over your competitors, then it matters. For the rest of us, it is just a pointless diversion. I could lose 15lbs from my too round carcass, and no matter how many thousands I spent, I couldn't take that much off my bike.
I got a killer deal on a 330mm Thomson seat post last week at a LBS and yesterday I was debating whether I should cut it down to 250mm to save 30g for the new road bike that is on its way from GVH bikes. Then in a moment of sanity I watched myself cramming everything but the kitchen sink in my seat bag and not even thinking about what any of it weighed. I decided to keep the seat post just the way it is.
Then in a moment of sanity I watched myself cramming everything but the kitchen sink in my seat bag and not even thinking about what any of it weighed. I decided to keep the seat post just the way it is.
I wish I'd had that moment before I cut mine down. Worked fine cut down....but the next frame I wanted to use it on needed a few cm more length.... -- PeteCresswell
