Firstly, it's probably better to anti-seize the allen key rather than
locktite it. But thazt's unimportant. Whatever you do, DON'T TAKE APART
THE HUB AND AXLE! That's completely unneccessary. It's not the keyway
because the key would only be one click or movement.
From the description, I will bet that the clicking is completely
superficial. What frame do you ride? Does it have the same kind of
bearing holders as the united main-cap and Yuni or Nimbus 2? Does the
wheel seem to stop spining faster than it seems it should?
If so, you probably don't have enough spacers between the hub and
bearing and the hub and crank. This is causing the hub to rub against
the bearing holders, and mkaing a clicking sound in the proccess. This
was the case on my Onza, and it rubbed on my profiles, except it never
clicked because the rubbing was too hard. I think most profiles come
with three spacers per side. Remove your cranks (described below), and
then pull off your bearings and anything else on the axle and remember
the order that they went on (except the hub, of course). You should have
six little rings of metal probably coated in grease, two cranks, a
hub/axle, two bearings, two allen bolts, and two little aluminum washers
that go with the allen bolts.
Now, take the hub and on one side, rather than having only 1 little ring
of metal (spacer) between the bearing and the hub, try having two. Once
you have two spacers on each side of the hub, put on the bearings. Then,
put on the last two spacers and the cranks. My cranks have the unground
nub and still clear my Yuni frame with just one spacer, so you should be
fine.
That's my diagnosis. Also, when you reeassemble, use lots of anti-seixe
on the splines after cleaning them.
As for removing the cranks, go to your local downhill bike shop. They
should have an abundance of profile crank tools. As for one, as one
should've come with your profiles. Most likely the shop will be obliged
to give you one. Hold the crank near the axle so it's the only thing
touching the wheel. Now, with the tool completely threaded in, begin
tapping on it with a small hammer. Eventually the wheel should drop out
of the crank. You should hold the wheel over a soft surface to protect
it if it falls. An old scrap pillow is ideal. Now do the same on the
other side. When putting the cranks back on, put both on before
tightening ethier all the way. This keeps the hub from moving on the
keyway.
--
gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist
Don't you think it's a cruel irony that acting like a G.I. Joe in the
army can get you a Medal, while playing with one can get you thrown
out?
http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni
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