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Frame making thread

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rec.sport.unicycling
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20 June 2004
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22 June 2004
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cyberbellum
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  1. Follow-on to this
    [uml=http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=33294&perpage=15&pagenumber=3]thread[/uml]

    Gerblefranklin, you're on the right track. The key parameters for
    frame-making are:

    DENSITY
    The mass per unit volume.

    TENSILE STRENGTH, ULTIMATE

    This is the force required to pull apart a bar of metal divided by the
    cross sectional area of the metal. The link for titanium says that it's
    ultimates strength is 49,900 psi (pounds per square inch), or about 50
    ksi (thousand pounds per square inch). That means that it would take a
    pull of 25 tons to rupture a 1" x 1" bar of titanium. Similar numbers
    for ordinary structural steel (bridge I-beams for example) are from
    30,000 - 50,000; and for exotic bike-tubing steel around 160,000 to
    200,000.

    Ultimate strength isn't that important on a unicycle because the frame
    is usually bent and ruined before it breaks.

    TENSILE STRENGTH, YIELD

    This is the force required to permanently deform a bar by pulling on it.
    For brittle materials it's the same as the ultimate strength, since
    brittle materials crack before they deform.

    ELONGATION AT BREAK[/B]

    THIS IS HOW FAR THE BAR STRETCHES BEFORE IT BREAKS. AGAIN, NOT SO
    IMPORTANT SINCE MOST OF THIS ELOGATION IS FROM DUCTILE YEILDING. IT'S
    USEFUL AS AN INDICATOR OF HOW THE METAL WILL FAIL, THOUGH, SO IT HAS
    SOME USE IN JUDGING HOW SAFE THE FRAME IS. FRAMES THAT SIMPLY SNAP ARE
    DANGEROUS.

    [B]MODULUS OF ELASTICITY

    The modulus of a material is important for determining how stiff the
    frame will be. Think of it as if it were the stiffness of a spring -
    high modulus materials, like stiff springs, require a lot of pull to
    stretch even a little bit, whereas low modulus materials stretch very
    easily. Carbon fiber is a very high modulus material; rubber is a very
    low modulus material.


    --
    cyberbellum - Level 1.0 rider!

    I was standing in the park wondering why frisbees get bigger as they get
    closer. Then it hit me.
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  2. Here is a comparison of various metals used in frame-making.

    More metals can be found 'here' (http://tinyurl.com/2c6g3)

    Note that all of these frame-making metals have about the same specific
    elasticity. That means that if you just vary the wall thicknesses of
    the tubing all of them will make frames that ride about the same. Since
    aluminum and titanium are lighter than steel they can be formed into
    tubes with larger diameters to make much stiffer frames.

    Also note that aluminum and steel have about the same specific
    strengths, but titanium is twice as high. That means that the titanium
    frame is more likely to hold up under abuse.

    +----------------------------------------------------------------+
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    --
    cyberbellum - Level 1.0 rider!

    I was standing in the park wondering why frisbees get bigger as they get
    closer. Then it hit me.
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  3. Sweet! I get it! 🙂

    Thanks for all this info. Did you derive this information from the links
    I gave you?

    I plan on making a few steel hunters exactly like the original, and then
    trying one out of titanuim. One hitch I'm runnign into is that the
    person who runs the shop I may be using says her shop isn't set up to do
    titanuim. She says I need a vacuum chamber for some forms of titanium.
    But on the other hand, I talked to Steve Howard, and he says that I can
    TIG titanium just as I would steel.

    Now, assuming I'm still going to make a titanium hunter-like frame, can
    you tell me how much larger diameter the tubes need to be? I originally
    said 50", but would 25% work? I'd still like to keep the tubing small.

    Also, do you know of anywhere I can get the materials for a titanium
    frame? Steve Howard said I would need brand new High-speed steel end
    mills for the bearing holders, and I assume this applies to the brake
    bosses. He said that they'd be worn out pretty quickly. Also, where do I
    get grade 5 titanium? I doubt I can just drop by the scrap yard and pick
    some up.

    Thanks for all this advice, and I apologise for jacking hte other
    thread, although by now it seems dead.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    Don't you think it's a cruel irony that acting like a G.I. Joe in the
    army can get you a Medal, while playing with one can get you thrown
    out?

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni
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  4. cyberbellum said:

    The key parameters for frame-making are:

    DENSITY
    TENSILE STRENGTH, ULTIMATE
    TENSILE STRENGTH, YIELD
    ELONGATION AT BREAK
    MODULUS OF ELASTICITY

    If you are considering aluminum, it is also necessary to include some
    sort of fatigue analysis. Stresses on aluminum must be kept
    significantly lower than yield strength to prevent cracking from
    fatigue.

    Ken

  5. gerblefranklin said:

    *Sweet! I get it! 🙂

    Thanks for all this info. Did you derive this information from the
    links I gave you?
    *

    Yup. First year engineering schools stuff. It's called Mechanics of
    Materials. You're math is probably good enough already for you to read
    a textbook on this topic. If you run into anything you don't understand
    one of your math or physics teachers can help.

    Quoted message said:

    *
    I plan on making a few steel hunters exactly like the original, and
    then trying one out of titanuim. One hitch I'm runnign into is that
    the person who runs the shop I may be using says her shop isn't set up
    to do titanuim. She says I need a vacuum chamber for some forms of
    titanium. But on the other hand, I talked to Steve Howard, and he says
    that I can TIG titanium just as I would steel.
    *

    Steve is going to be a MUCH better source of information on metalworking
    than I am. Aerospace engineers just come up with the design
    specifications. We don't actually know how those specifications are
    turned into parts.

    Titanium LOVES oxygen, so your shop person wasn't far off. But Steve is
    right - the inert gas displaces all the air and allows the molten
    titanium to stay a metal instead of burning into an oxide.

    One of my engineering 101 professors explained the reactivity of
    different metals in this way. He said, "A freshly cut surface of steel
    will oxidize in a few days or weeks, and will keep oxidizing until the
    steel is gone. Freshly cut aluminum oxidizes in a seconds or minutes
    but the oxide coating is so tight that it stops the reaction. Titanium
    is the same way, but it forms the oxide coating in a few milliseconds."
    It's safe to say that no one ever really sees freshly cut titanium, and
    that molten titanium will react furiously with air if you ever give it
    the chance.

    The Russians built a couple of subs out of titanium during the cold war.
    No one was sure exactly how they did it. It turns out they built the
    subs in a giant airtight building filled with argon. All the workers
    wore space suits.

    Quoted message said:

    *
    Now, assuming I'm still going to make a titanium hunter-like frame,
    can you tell me how much larger diameter the tubes need to be? I
    originally said 50", but would 25% work? I'd still like to keep the
    tubing small.

    Also, do you know of anywhere I can get the materials for a titanium
    frame?
    *

    I'll have to get back to you on that. My sense is that 25% would be
    fine, but you are going to be limited by whatever tubing size you can
    find.

    You might call Lightspeed or some other titanium bicycle frame
    manufacturer and ask them where you can get materials. They might find
    your project amusing and offer some help.

    Quoted message said:

    * Steve Howard said I would need brand new High-speed steel end mills
    for the bearing holders, and I assume this applies to the brake
    bosses. He said that they'd be worn out pretty quickly. Also, where do
    I get grade 5 titanium? I doubt I can just drop by the scrap yard and
    pick some up.
    *

    Steve is telling you something quite valuable. Titanium is reactive,
    right? Very reactive? Those top-end cutting tools are going to get
    dull very, very fast because the titanium will weld itself to the
    cutting edges as it is being cut. Those welds will round the edges of
    the tools in no time, either because tiny titanium blobs will coat the
    edge, or more likely the titanium will pull chips of steel off the
    edges.

    Steve is also cluing you in on the possibility that you may need to
    spend a lot more money on tools than you will on materials. What Steve
    is saying is don't waste your time with cheap tools because they will
    become useless almost instantly. The really good stuff will cut
    titanium for a minute or so before it goes dull.
    The machinists who worked on the SR-71 (a mostly titanium aircraft) used
    to go through a truckload of tools just to get one assembly built.

    There are a couple of processes that have been invented for working
    titanium without welding or cutting. It's so reactive that if you just
    get two parts hot and press them together they will diffuse into each
    other and be virtually welded without ever melting. Titanium also has
    this neat property that it will slowly flow or into a new shape if you
    get it hot and apply enough pressure. I think the process is called
    superplastic forming. If it's not too hard to do perhaps you could make
    the bearing holders this way by "mushing" them on to a 40 mm steel form.
    It might be cheaper than buying a few sets of cutting bits.

    So to recap, I know just enough about making things to be dangerous.
    Listen to Steve. He's a pro.

    --
    cyberbellum - Level 1.0 rider!

    I was standing in the park wondering why frisbees get bigger as they get
    closer. Then it hit me.
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  6. Oops! Hit quote instead of edit.

    --
    cyberbellum - Level 1.0 rider!

    I was standing in the park wondering why frisbees get bigger as they get
    closer. Then it hit me.
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  7. How hot do I need to get it to do superplastic forming? Would 500
    degrees farenheight do? Then, I could just stick it on an open flame and
    press until it was formed. How much pressing are we talking about.
    200p.s.i? 1,000p.s.i? Also, how much are those kinds of cutting tools?
    Would a slow enough speed running the bits enlongate their lifespan?
    Also, how does one make a 40mm cut on a non-CNC milling machine? Do I
    need a 40mm end-mill?

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    Don't you think it's a cruel irony that acting like a G.I. Joe in the
    army can get you a Medal, while playing with one can get you thrown
    out?

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni
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  8. cyberbellum said:

    Oops! Hit quote instead of edit.

    In such a case, hit your "Back" button.

    Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
    --
    I was right when I made the mistake. - doofe

  9. This is a fascinating discussion about framebuilding. But I want to go
    back to the original question of building a Hunter frame out of
    aluminum. The engineering aspect of doing this is only one part of the
    equation. You have left out "why a Hunter frame?"

    Purpose of the Hunter design:
    - Fatter tires require wider frames. Wider frames bang into your legs.
    Remember, this design was developed before and during the time people
    started using 3" tires. Making a wide frame (for 3" tire) out of fat
    tubing would make for a very wide outside width; more chance to
    interfere with your knees.
    - Good quality bicycle tubing comes in wide sizes, a little too wide for
    a good unicycle frame, and narrow sizes, for the rear triangle on the
    bike. The Hunter (and Telford) design is based on doubling up on this
    skinny tubing to maintain strength, while keeping the overall width
    down.
    - Conclusion: Making a Hunter-style frame out of wide tubing doesn't
    make a lot of sense. If you're going to use wider tube, a different
    frame design should be considered.

    I think this is part of why the Wilder frames are shaped the way they
    are. They essentially have rectangular tubing on the fork legs. Wide
    front-to-back for strength, but narrow side-to-side to keep the overall
    width down.

    For titanium, you can probably do a more standard fork design. It might
    not look as cool, but it should be easier (and cheaper) to build.

    For aluminum, it would be nice if you could fine some ovalized tubing.
    Otherwise, you're just going to have to live with a wider frame. This
    may not be a problem, depending on rider height. I think the shorter you
    are the more problems you're likely to have with a wide frame.

    --
    johnfoss - Walkin' on the edge

    John Foss, the Uni-Cyclone
    "jfoss" at "unicycling.com"
    www.unicycling.com

    "That sucks." -- Ryan Atkins, at the bottom of a 10' cliff he just
    jumped off at the 2003 California MUni Weekend, looking at his bent
    seat.
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  10. I got to see Kris Holms latest prototype that he was riding on while he
    was in Telluride for the Mountain film fest. It's an alluminum frame
    made with oval tubing that has a flat crown like his others but it
    tapers in at the top of the vertical legs so it's not as wide of a flat
    top to reduce leg scrapes. It seemed very stiff and also light, I hope
    it makes it to production it was a sweet frame. It would be great to see
    a low cost production alluminum frame muni available. Kris Holm has done
    great things making high quality munis more affordable, I hope he keeps
    it up.

    --
    Tellurider - Dan Wilson
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  11. That's originally why I decided to try to use titanium rather than
    aluminum. Were I to use aluminum I'd make a larger triangle than on the
    average hunter, and then make the rear tube be large diameter and the
    front tube only about 5/8" diameter. That's just a it more complicated
    than I wanted.

    As for using titanium, you saw Dan Heaton's titanium muni frame at moab
    I assume. It was of the conventional design. i got to ride it both days
    and my knees got to know the crown of that fork much more than I wanted.
    The frame was simply too wide. A Hunter style one wouldn't be.

    I was thinking of cheating around the bearing holders. What if I made
    steel bearing holders, and then gave them an adaquate sleeve to fit onto
    the titanium. That would avoid the expensive materials and tools costs
    of making them out of a block of titanium. Or I could use aluminum, and
    also make strap-on brake bosses that simply clamp on like a seatpost
    clamp. That'd cut machining and fabrication costs a ton. The problem
    would be getting te aluminum bearing holders to fit the titanium without
    developing slop.

    Does anyone know of somewhere that I can get ovalized titanium tubing?
    If I can get that, i could make a KH-style frame. It'd be easier to
    attach brake bosses and bearing holders to that kind of frame, not to
    mention it'd be cheaper.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    Don't you think it's a cruel irony that acting like a G.I. Joe in the
    army can get you a Medal, while playing with one can get you thrown
    out?

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni
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  12. Both the Pashley and Miyata unis have decent lollipop bearing holder
    designs that work well in practice. The Miyatas are lighter by far than
    the Pashleys but you might make a hybrid design. The easiest thing to
    do might be to use a set of Miyatas which are easily obtained from
    uni.com. You do have to get a bearing that matches both holder and
    axle, though.

    --
    U-Turn - Member of Generation XO

    Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.

    '29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)

    'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
    (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)

    'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)

    -- Dave Stockton
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  13. U-Turn said:

    *Both the Pashley and Miyata unis have decent lollipop bearing holder
    designs that work well in practice. The Miyatas are lighter by far
    than the Pashleys but you might make a hybrid design. The easiest
    thing to do might be to use a set of Miyatas which are easily obtained
    from uni.com. You do have to get a bearing that matches both holder
    and axle, though. *

    I don't mean lollipop. I mean a main-cap bearing holder that has a press
    fit onto the frame tubes. This would be better because it has the
    advantages of main-cap. The miyatas suck. Dan Heaton's muni frame uses
    them, and there's tons of slop in there.

    What I'm describing is like having the top of the top bearing holder
    part press fit permanently onto the frame. Something where there's a
    small block of titanium at the base where the entire bearing holder
    bolts on.

    --
    gerblefranklin - Trials Unicyclist

    Don't you think it's a cruel irony that acting like a G.I. Joe in the
    army can get you a Medal, while playing with one can get you thrown
    out?

    http://gallery.unicyclist.com/Trials-Muni
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  14. Yea I don't see any reason to build a titanium frame and then use [censored]
    lolipop bearing holders. You should talk to Ed at creative geiko he
    builds with titanium and makes alluminum bearing holders that clamp to
    the titanium tubes, infact he doesn't weld anything to the titanium
    tubing the crown is also aluminum. I'm sure he would be willing to work
    with you, and he could also get you the titanium tubing you need, or
    Steve Howard could also machine you something.

    --
    Tellurider - Dan Wilson
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  15. Tellurider said:

    *Yea I don't see any reason to build a titanium frame and then use
    [censored] lolipop bearing holders. You should talk to Ed at creative geiko
    he builds with titanium and makes alluminum bearing holders that clamp
    to the titanium tubes, infact he doesn't weld anything to the titanium
    tubing the crown is also aluminum. I'm sure he would be willing to
    work with you, and he could also get you the titanium tubing you need,
    or Steve Howard could also machine you something. *


    The Miyata and Pashley bearing holders aren't [censored]. They are quite
    good. I don't know about Dan's bearing holders, but I've had nothing
    but good results from the Miyata and Pashley. The design is not as
    easily accessed, but the pressure on the bearing housing is ideal for
    smooth tracking. And thousands of people have put huge amounts of
    stress on the Miyatas.

    --
    U-Turn - Member of Generation XO

    Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.

    '29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)

    'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
    (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)

    'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)

    -- Dave Stockton
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  16. Yea [censored] is a bit of an overstatement but why would anybody build a
    titanium muni and then use miyata lolipops. Definitly not the best way
    to go, besides pashley you don't see any munis or trials unis being
    built with them and the general opinion is that main caps are much
    better. Miyatas are an exelent freestyle and street uni and pashleys are
    plenty sturdy but it's been the same for an eternity when are they going
    to realize that people are useing 24"x3" tires.

    --
    Tellurider - Dan Wilson
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