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Need crank help.

Started by Sigurd · · Last activity · 20 posts · 620 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
13 June 2004
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24 July 2004
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Sigurd
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  1. What are all of your experiences with the Monties, the Black Widows, the
    Doteks....and cranks in general. I have a United 24" Extra Large trainer
    that I have been riding for a year. All my hopping and stair climbing
    has bent my steel cranks. I'm also 215 pounds. I need to upgrade, but it
    seems like there are mixed reviews everywhere. My cranks are square
    taper and upgrading to splined is not an option now. I do mostly just
    normal riding, including curb drops and hops and the occasional
    staircase or two. I intend to take it offroad in the future. Any help is
    appreciated.

    --
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  2. I wouldn't go for any of those aluminum cranks, especially given your
    215 pound size. Steel cranks are going to be better for you. Just keep
    an extra pair of steel cranks on hand because they are eventually going
    to bend.

    The problem with the aluminum cranks is that it takes very high quality
    aluminum cranks to handle heavy riders and any sort of rough treatment.
    All of those cranks are made out of a softer series of aluminum. The
    really expensive and strong aluminum cranks are made out of 7000 series
    aluminum (like 7075) and are much stronger. The strong cranks like the
    Kookas are made from the stronger aluminum.

    What size wheel are you using and what length cranks do you want. There
    may be some other options.

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  3. Ok, I always thought that there was just one type of aluminum. So the
    best trials cranks are the better grade of aluminum? I guess for the
    uni I'm using and what I'm doing I don't need that much crank. The ones
    I have now are steel and they started to bend when I started hopping. I
    have a 24" wheel and I'm looking to get 140-150. I have 150s now. I
    like the torque for hills, but I like to cruise too. Almost leaning
    more towards the 140s.

    Thanks for the help. =)

    --
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  4. Sigurd said:

    *Ok, I always thought that there was just one type of aluminum. So
    the best trials cranks are the better grade of aluminum? I guess for
    the uni I'm using and what I'm doing I don't need that much crank.
    The ones I have now are steel and they started to bend when I started
    hopping. I have a 24" wheel and I'm looking to get 140-150. I have
    150s now. I like the torque for hills, but I like to cruise too.
    Almost leaning more towards the 140s.

    Thanks for the help. =) *

    There are many different grades of aluminum. Aluminum bicycle parts are
    all made from aluminum alloy, they're not made from pure aluminum.
    There are many different aluminum alloys. Different alloys have
    different properties. Some will be softer and more malleable, while
    others will be harder and stronger. Some alloys are less expensive and
    easier to machine while others are stronger and more difficult to
    machine. The choice of what alloy to use makes a big difference in the
    final strength of the crank. The more expensive cranks generally use
    the stronger alloys.

    In addition to the choice of alloy there is also the manufacturing
    process. Some cranks are made from cast aluminum. Cast aluminum cranks
    will be very weak (think Lasko). Some cranks are machined from a solid
    block of aluminum alloy. The better cranks are first forged and then
    machined. The more machining required the more expensive the cranks are
    going to be.

    All aluminum cranks are not created equal. The choice of alloy and the
    manufacturing process are very important factors in determining the
    strength of a crank.

    Unless you plan on spending big bucks for a custom set of cut down Kooka
    cranks, you're going to be better off getting steel cranks. The steel
    cranks will eventually bend, but they're also cheaper than good strong
    aluminum cranks. Steel also has the advantage that it will first bend
    before breaking in two. When aluminum cranks fail the fail quickly and
    catastrophically (meaning the break in two with little warning).

    In the 140 mm length, there's the Schwinn steel cranks. In the 150 mm
    length, there's the Bicycle Euro steel cranks along with others. The
    Bicycle Euro cranks have a reputation for being stronger than the
    others.

    Keep an extra set of cranks on hand so that when you do eventually bend
    the cranks you have something to replace them with.

    If you continue to have constant problems with bending cranks then it's
    time to consider one of the splined setups. The splined cranks are
    bigger, beefier, stronger.

    --
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  5. Hey thanks a lot, john. I appreciate it. So the widows are going to be
    a not-so-good choice for my weight (220)? Or are they just weak
    aluminum, period? I have heard mixed things about the Euros and I need
    cranks before the 4th of July parade!!

    Thanks. It helps me out.

    --
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  6. Listen to John.

    You don't want to be spending close to $100 on aluminum cranks that are
    going to break.

    You need to be thinking "upgrade to splined", but just get the bicycle
    Euro's on the cheap until you can save the money.

    You can buy a splined 24" Torker for $149.00 on e-bay(plus $20.00
    shipping). They come with 150mm cranks that won't break.

    --
    elmer - uniimpaired

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  7. elmer said:

    *You don't want to be spending close to $100 on aluminum cranks that
    are going to break.
    *

    Good point. See, I went into a bike shop here in town (I know, bad
    idea) and they could not stop talking down about steel cranks. I guess
    that just really turned me to aluminum. And seeing that my own steel
    ones bent.... Oh well, you both do make valid points. I would rather
    have some warning as to when they break, and I really don't have the
    money to spend on something just to find out, "Oh, oops...it broke."

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  8. Yeah splided are the way to go, I bent my steal ones on my first
    unicycle and didnt notice till I got my summit. Then I couldnt figure
    out how I rode it with them so bent.

    Bike shops are suck every time I try to talk about something unicycle
    they say it cant be done. Like putting a brake on my coker the guy
    thinks that every time I use it I'll fall on my face and wouldnt listen
    to what I was saying. The guy actualy didnt want to sell the brake to
    me because he thought I would kill myself on the coker.

    When I buy stuff if ever I do from them I wont say what its for.

    --
    Tim - Coker user

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  9. Sigurd said:

    *Hey thanks a lot, john. I appreciate it. So the widows are going to
    be a not-so-good choice for my weight (220)? Or are they just weak
    aluminum, period? I have heard mixed things about the Euros and I
    need cranks before the 4th of July parade!!

    Thanks. It helps me out. *

    The Black Widow Euro cranks aren't strong enough for jumping around with
    or for heavier riders. I used them for XC riding back before I was
    doing drops and jumps. They worked fine for that. I've also used them
    on my Coker. But I wouldn't use them for muni any more because my muni
    riding has gotten more aggressive and I'm doing jumps and drops now.

    --
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  10. Ok, I'm pretty sold on the steel ones now after hearing all of your
    inputs. Should I go for the Euros, or the Schwinns? All the reviews on
    the Euros on unicycle.com are not good, it seems.

    --
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  11. Sigurd said:

    *Ok, I'm pretty sold on the steel ones now after hearing all of your
    inputs. Should I go for the Euros, or the Schwinns? All the reviews
    on the Euros on unicycle.com are not good, it seems. *

    I don't know about how the different brands of steel cranks compare for
    strength and resistance to bending.

    Anyone have experience with the different steel cranks? Which ones are
    the strong ones?

    --
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  12. Sorry, I don't have an opinion on different cranks. I will say that
    having weakish cranks are not an all togther bad idea. I'd much rather
    have a crank break or bend then mess up a hub. Even if replacement hubs
    are cheap (and they are) unless you know how to lace a wheel, you are
    going to end up paying more for the hub then cranks.

    I once snapped a hub and that was the end of that uni. Had I broken a
    crank, the fix would have been fast and cheap.

    Daniel

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  13. Bump.

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  14. I'm gettin' the Euros. I need the 150s for the few hills I go up and
    down. And if they break, well, I'm only out $25.

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  15. Sigurd said:

    I'm gettin' the Euros. I need the 150s for the few hills I go up and
    down. And if they break, well, I'm only out $25.

    Consider the 125s. I find them much nicer than 150s for any paved
    riding. I was surprised at how well they worked on non-technical off
    road as well. And this is on a 27" wheel (26x2.5) - they'll give you more
    powerful gearing on your 24".

    Ken

  16. The 125s work offroad?? I always thought the lower torque of shorter
    cranks would be bad offroad. What about for trials, which is actually
    turning out to be more of what I'm doing? Shorter or longer for trials?

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  17. Sigurd said:

    The 125s work offroad?? I always thought the lower torque of shorter
    cranks would be bad offroad. What about for trials, which is actually
    turning out to be more of what I'm doing? Shorter or longer for trials?

    Maybe "cross country" is a better term than "offroad" for the use I
    referred to, though the trails I ride aren't flat. I was thinking
    125s would be great for "normal riding, including curb drops and
    hops". 150s will be more versatile for offroad, but not as smooth as
    the shorter ones.

    Ken

  18. So how about for trials? Would longer be better?

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  19. Sigurd said:

    *So how about for trials? Would longer be better? *

    Longer cranks are generally better for trials. Longer cranks give you
    more leverage for rolling over bigger bumps. Longer cranks also give
    you more leverage for holding your position on objects with sloping
    surfaces. For example, when you're jumping on a big boulder that has a
    lot of surfaces that are not flat, the longer cranks will allow you to
    better hold your position on the various slopping surfaces. For trials
    it's all about leverage and not so much about speed and pedaling
    efficiency.

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  20. Thanks for all your input. I got the 150 Euros this past week and they
    are great!! Haven't gotten to crank grabbing just yet. I want to keep
    them nice looking for a little while anyway. I haven't ridden on
    straight cranks since last October!!

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