Mountain Bikes · Public discussion

Cutting cable housing

Started by Zilla · · Last activity · 33 posts · 1,167 views

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Mountain Bikes
Published
27 June 2004
Last activity
30 June 2004
Original author
Zilla
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33
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  1. What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)

    --
    - Zilla
    Cary, NC
    (Remove XSPAM)

  2. Zilla said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)

    Have you tried inserting an old spoke or an old cable?

    Francesco

  3. Zilla said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)

    While some people file the edges down smooth, I just use an old hunk of
    cable to open/round the hole. Hear it's a bit harder with brake housing
    than derailleur, but haven't had to do it yet (in over 8 years?!?).

    Bill "stiff stoppers" S.

  4. I use an icepick or finishing nail to open the hole.

    I MTB 2004

  5. Zilla said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)

    I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a small nail or an
    old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't seem to have caused any problems
    at all. I'm curious to see if there's any way to do it without crushing it.

    --
    Tom

  6. Zilla said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)


    Believe or not, a Tube Cutter is the secret. Using a tube cutter will
    leave a perfect cut and will also keep the metal web from
    spreading/springing out on you, making it impossible to insert into the
    attachment sleeve.

    The trick is to go real slow (pressure wise) with the cutter... too much
    pressure or you'll squish it. You'll be able to feel it, and you well
    hear it as it cuts thru the metal webbing. As soon as it goes thru the
    last piece of metal, stop and finish off the inner plastic line with a
    sharp razor.

    --
    Slacker

  7. ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

  8. Quoted message said:

    I use an icepick or finishing nail to open the hole.

    Reminds me of an evil urologist I once knew.

    Bill "please God, no more kidney stones" S.

  9. tcmedara said:
    Zilla said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)

    I''ve never been able to keep it uncrimped. I just use a small nail or an
    old spoke to round it out again. Doesn't seem to have caused any problems
    at all. I'm curious to see if there's any way to do it without crushing it.


    yes. cut a single slit around the cable with a knife, then bend it
    around very slightly until you see where the coil of the cable coincides
    with the slit. at this point, you can hold it slightly open, then use
    wire cutters to cut the coil. it does not crimp the cable, but you
    still have to file or grind it square afterwards. i use a bench grinder
    - a fabulously useful tool for only $40.

  10. Zilla said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)


    For brake casing, find something which can slip between the
    coils like a diagonal side cutter ( the tool whose Name
    Shall Not Be Spoken) or an end cutter. You may finish with
    a light touch on a grindwheel if you're a perfectionist. At
    any rate, ensure the aperture is not occluded by an errant
    sharp overhang. We use a pointy spoke to open the teflon liner.
    For index gear casing, you'll need something which can leave
    a crisp edge in this hard material. Swiss Felco cutters are
    the very best but other brands of wire cutters (the type
    with a diamond-shaped cutting edges) are fine for home use.
    Again, a pointy spoke is great for opening the teflon liner.

    A diamond-shaped cutting edge (Felco, Var, copies) isn't a
    particularly good tool for brake casing. Try a tool with a
    simpler edge.

    That's a bit wordy and I'm enjoying my new camera immensely:
    http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/CASING.JPG

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  11. "S o r n i" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I use an icepick or finishing nail to open the hole.

    Reminds me of an evil urologist I once knew.

    Bill "please God, no more kidney stones" S.

    "Yer one sick lizard, Louie" :^D

  12. Michael Dart said:

    "S o r n i" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I use an icepick or finishing nail to open the hole.

    Reminds me of an evil urologist I once knew.

    Bill "please God, no more kidney stones" S.

    "Yer one sick lizard, Louie" :^D

    How'd you know my real name is Louis?!?

    Bill "notice no refutation of sick lizard smack" S.

  13. Slacker said:

    ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

    One where you're dreaming of an itty bitty little tubing cutter?

    Mark Hickey
    Habanero Cycles
    http://www.habcycles.com
    Home of the $695 ti frame

  14. Mark Hickey said:
    Slacker said:

    ugghhh... never post after waking up from a nap!

    One where you're dreaming of an itty bitty little tubing cutter?

    Mark Hickey
    Habanero Cycles
    http://www.habcycles.com
    Home of the $695 ti frame


    Yeah, in the hand of a very [censored] ex-GF ;-( She had a dull butter
    knife in the other.

    Maybe I won't go back to sleep for awhile.

    --
    Slacker

  15. "Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)

    In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out that the
    previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in case that's what
    you're using. I haven't used or heard reviews about the newer CN-10
    yet, which is likely what you have if it's new.

  16. Zilla said:
    Nate Knutson said:

    "Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)


    In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out that the
    previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in case that's what
    you're using. I haven't used or heard reviews about the newer CN-10
    yet, which is likely what you have if it's new.


    My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the
    CN-10 been out?

    Pardon me if this has been said already by others.

    BIG DEAL! No special cutting tool is necessary: any does the job.
    Just have at hand a grinding stone/belt or corborundum disc; use it to
    round off the badly cut spiral. Then, insert as fine nail or drill to open
    up the hole in the inner casing.

    That's all you need.

    Sergio
    Pisa

  17. Nate Knutson said:

    "Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)

    In addition to what everyone else says, I should point out that the
    previous Park cutter was pretty famously bad, in case that's what
    you're using. I haven't used or heard reviews about the newer CN-10
    yet, which is likely what you have if it's new.

    My Park cable cutter is 1-yr old. How long has the
    CN-10 been out?

    --
    - Zilla
    Cary, NC
    (Remove XSPAM)

  18. Jim Connelley said:

    I insert some old cable before I cut. Use the Park cable cutter and
    cut right thru the housing and cable. The cable supports the inner
    wall of the housing, giving clean cuts every time.

    Ho do you remove the stump of the old cable inside?
    Or, is this Park tool made not to cut the inner cable?
    Then, if so, why inserting an old one?

    Sergio
    Pisa

  19. S o r n i said:

    Cable has to be a bit longer than the housing, that's all.

    That means that to cut to length the housing for the rear brake you must
    sacrifice an old very long cable.
    I admit that this procedure looks rather inconvenient to me.

    Sergio
    Pisa

  20. "Zilla" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    What's the trick so as not to crimp the metal casing
    inside? I have the Park cable cutter, so it's not the tool.
    (IOW, I know it's me.)

    I insert some old cable before I cut. Use the Park cable cutter and
    cut right thru the housing and cable. The cable supports the inner
    wall of the housing, giving clean cuts every time.

    --
    Jim C

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