Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

building a bike

Started by jerryindiana · · Last activity · 6 posts · 926 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
10 April 2004
Last activity
11 April 2004
Original author
jerryindiana
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  1. When building up a new bike, when do you use grease, oil and anti-seize compound and where. Also, I beleive that I have most of the tools to do this but I have never had to cut a steerer or install a star nut. Will I need any special tools to do this with.
    Thanks in advance.....

  2. You shouldn't need to lubricate much when building a new bike because many of the bearings and moving parts will be either sealed or already lubed (e.g. bottom bracket, hubs, pivots in rear mech, brake pivots, chain, stem/steerer tube etc). An exception might be the headset - some non-sealed-bearing headsets come without any lube in the bearings, so when you're putting the ballraces into the cups, get some good-sized dollops of grease in there and spread it round well. The more the better - you can wipe off excess when it's all in place.

    In general, put anti-seize anywhere where metal surfaces are held together by friction, for example: bottom bracket threads, pedal axles, seatpost (on the bit that touches the frame and also the bolts that hold the saddle on) and so on. But if the bottom bracket has a square-tapered axle, don't grease the tapers that the cranks go on - just make sure they're clean, and make sure the corresponding surfaces on the cranks are clean. If you grease a crank taper it makes it possible to pull it too far onto the axle when tightening up the crank retaining bolt, and this can cause damage to the crank.

    If you're working with aluminium and steel bits, standard thick grease (but not lithium grease) can make a reasonable substitute for anti-seize compound, but I've read that with titanium, it's more important to use a proper anti-seize compound designed for use with titanium, because apparently ti is more susceptible to seizing up. Some anti-sieze compounds are toxic so take care.

    Cutting a steerer tube can be done with a vice and a hacksaw - clamp the tube in the vice (not too hard, and preferably with some kind of soft padding to avoid scoring it) and cut it to the required length with the hacksaw. Should be fairly easy for carbon or aluminium tubes, but cromoly can be a [censored].

    There exist tools for installing star washers, to help ensure they go into the tube square, but I don't know if they are necessary or not - it could be that you can just use a bit of old pipe or something as a punch to knock the washer in. I've never installed a star washer though, so I'm only guessing. If you don't feel confident about this, it's probably cheaper just to buy an expanding bung like the Hope "Hed Doctor" instead of the tool.

  3. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by mjw_byrne
    But if the bottom bracket has a square-tapered axle, don't grease the tapers that the cranks go on - just make sure they're clean, and make sure the corresponding surfaces on the cranks are clean. If you grease a crank taper it makes it possible to pull it too far onto the axle when tightening up the crank retaining bolt, and this can cause damage to the crank.

    Well, actually it's hamfistedness and ignorance that hoses crank arms, not grease on the tapers. I have bought new shimano square taper BB that came with the spindle pregreased. Been doing it myself for years with no issues.

  4. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by jerryindiana
    When building up a new bike, when do you use grease, oil and anti-seize compound and where. Also, I beleive that I have most of the tools to do this but I have never had to cut a steerer or install a star nut. Will I need any special tools to do this with.
    Thanks in advance.....

    Why don't you spend $20 on Zinns maintenance book.Tools, lube and other stuff is pretty well covered. www.parktool.com repair section is another good source. What you use and were is often material specific. In cutting a steerer, getting right length is more important than how. Measure several times and think about it alot before grabbing the cutting tool. Too long is better than too short.If you have never installed HS cups ,and crown race a good bike shop may be a better bet. It ain't rocket science, the there is potential for very expensive screwups.

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by mjw_byrne


    If you're working with aluminium and steel bits, standard thick grease (but not lithium grease) can make a reasonable substitute for anti-seize compound, .....

    And what is wrong with lithium grease? White lithium was the standard bike grease for years.

  6. I read somewhere that it can sometimes act as an electrolyte between certain metals, actually assisting the seizing-up process.

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