Profile maintenance q's (search results inconclusive)

1. No Locktite is needed.

2. Don't use a hex on a breaker bar or ratchet. Just tighten
them very snug with a hex key. If you tighten them to
much the washer will break (trust me I know 😠 )

3. I have one set that I can remove without tools but the
bearing puller is the way to go. In my experience, they
come right off and don't ruin the bearing either.

4. One of my hubs developed a loose axle/ keyway slop. I
sent them to Profile and they fixed it for free. I kinda
think I may have contributed to the problem or even
caused it by torquing down to hard during installation
with the Profile installation tool. The final bolt
tightening process will get them on tight enough don't
reef down to much with the install tool.

5. The copper anti-seize washes right off. I only use anti-
seize as that is what Profile recommends.

6. Just check the bolts now and then.

- Frank

--
Frank A. - off-road

"Man's maturity: to have regained the seriousness that he had as a child
at play." - FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE, Beyond Good and Evil

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Frank A.'s Profile: unicyclist.com1710Open ↗
View this thread: unicyclist.com30045Open ↗

Quoted message said:

*
1) The crank bolts. These are only lubed up with
antiseize...no red locktite is needed in here? *

I personally use blue loctite on the bolt threads.

Quoted message said:

*
2) The crank bolts. Any specified amount of torque to
tighten these up to? *

On the Profile trials and splined KH24s I've worked on,
there comes a specific point when the crank bolt gets much
harder to turn. I figure at that point the bolt is in all
the way and nothing more needs to be done. This tightening
is different than on a square taper, where that doesn't
happen and it is hard to tell when to stop, especially with
a long-handled wrench. So I use a torque wrench for square
taper, but not for the splined. If your spacers are
improperly chosen, then this could lead to problems, so it's
important to have the proper spacers.

Quoted message said:

*
3) Crank removal. Is a bearing puller the only option for
the removal of brand new cranks? *

I was trying to design a puller for my Profile cranks
because of all the stories I'd heard but when I tried out
the bearing puller (on the bearings), everything pulled off
nicely and easily. This was partly because I installed
everything carefully with plenty of anti-seize from the very
beginning, and perhaps partly because of lucky manufacturing
tolerances. However, I hold the opinion that most of the
horror stories are because of improperly lubed installation,
and/or neglect. Every once in a while pull the whole thing
apart, clean it up, and re-anti-seize. Keep that happy
feeling going.

Quoted message said:

*
4) The whole keyway/axle hoopla. Does an average user need
to know anything about this? Assuming the only user
maintenance would be the removal/installation of
cranks...is this something that only needs to be
checked on if something doesn't feel right? (what are
some signs and remedies?) *

So far I haven't had to do anything about the keyway and my
Profile doesn't squeak or make any noise at all.

Quoted message said:

*
5) Is there a reason why antiseize is preferred over
grease? MY hands are stained grey...and that was only
by picking up the wheel and playing with it as I was
stopped at each intersection since Darren came through
town. *

It pays to be very careful with the anti-seize because it is
truly pernicious. It seems to stay in place better than the
grease. Copper anti-seize is not necessary; the only
difference is the highest temperature it will handle. Unless
you are using a titanium axle I'm not sure that anti-seize
is strictly necessary. If you keep a few paper towels handy
and keep cleaning as you go it seems to spread a lot less.

Quoted message said:

*
6) That's it for now. Any other 'should knows'? *

Coat the outside of the crank bolts with grease because they
rust easily. Again, take the time at reasonable intervals
considering your ride type and frequency to pull it all
apart and clean and relube.

Thanks to John Childs for all his posts on this subject.

--
U-Turn - There has got to be a better way...

Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.

'29er Tire Study' (tinyurl.com3248fOpen ↗)

'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
(unicyclist.comalbup39Open ↗)

'Unatics Website' (newyorkunicycle.comnewyorkunicycle.comOpen ↗)

-- Dave Stockton
------------------------------------------------------------------------
U-Turn's Profile: unicyclist.com691Open ↗
View this thread: unicyclist.com30045Open ↗