Getting a MUni

Get the onza, their the only ones on your list that have a
splined hub.

--
super_evill - Addicted To Jesus

"Whadda ya want me to do, whack a guy, off a guy, whackoff a guy, cuz
I'm married"- Peter Griffin

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super_evill said:

*Get the onza, their the only ones on your list that have
a splined hub. *

ah-hem. The Torker DX has a splined hub.

Daniel

--
daino149 - How's it going, Texas?

there ain't enough body armor in the country for me to try that. -- Ken
on the mtbr forum in reference to MUni
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If 400$ is your pricerange i would suggest getting together
with someone who really knows what they are talking about
and decide on parts you want because i think it would be
much more cost effective and putting together parts is very
easy even for a beginner. If you want just a package deal
then tell us what you want all we know is that yuve pretty
much started to MUni but you want more so that means were
shooting in the dark at whats right for you. I would suggest
first checking product reveiws then go from there alot of us
dont know what were talking about we just know what we like
not what you like.

I hope you find whats right for u!😄

Note: i said alot of us not all of us!

--
Catboy - I enjoy the taste of dirt!

"Awww man its like I ate a candy cane through my nose or a koala bear
crapped a rainbow into my brain!"-Me just after beleiving that if you
put Burts Bees wax on your eyelids it will keep you awake.
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super_evill said:

*Get the onza, their the only ones on your list that have
a splined hub. *

The Torker UniStar Dx-24 also has a splined axle and
crankset. It has a
25.4mm seatpost in addition which is a step up from the
22.2mm weenie unicycle standard that needs to be changed
desperately.

The Onza ad claims that it has an alloy seatpost. That means
nothing by itself. Steel is an alloy and the aluminum used
in cycle parts can be any of several different alloys. Alloy
is usually incorrectly used to distinguish steel (which is
ALWAYS an alloy) from aluminum (which MAY occur as a pure
elemental metal and not be an alloy). It is incorrectly
applied in that it is generally used to describe something
that is NOT steel. Interesting, irritating and almost
universal misuse of the term. More importantly, does the
Onza have a 27.2mm seatpost tube? If so many MB seatposts
can be used with it and you can get a cheap seat rail
adapter to give you a VERY flexible seat adjustment base.

Lots of folks started with Schwinn frames. I think that
they're too heavy and the marginally adjustable seatpost is
annoying. The seatpost bolts pose a nice little thigh
slicing threat, too.

Big pluses to look for are: (1.) splined axle (hub) and
crankset (2.) 24x3.0 tire (3.) 27.2mm seatpost tube (4.)
metal, pinned pedals (5.) a seat with a handle preferably
convertible to an airseat (6.) machined bearing holders
(7.) lightweight frame. (8.) someone willing to give it to
you for free.

--
harper - Old dog, no tricks

-Greg Harper

B L U E S H I F T

"I hope to be a 90 year old guy who rides his unicycle to the store for
whiskey and condoms." -J.D. Miller
"Old people give me money, because I deliver their paper!" -
James_Potter
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harper said:

... Steel is an alloy and the aluminum used in cycle parts
can be any of several different alloys. Alloy is usually
incorrectly used to distinguish steel (which is ALWAYS an
alloy) from aluminum (which MAY occur as a pure elemental
metal and not be an alloy). It is incorrectly applied in
that it is generally used to describe something that is
NOT steel. Interesting, irritating and almost universal
misuse of the term.

Just substitute the phrase "aluminum alloy" whenever you
see "alloy" in a cycling context and it all starts to
make sense...

Ken

Are you just doing muni or do you plan on doing other types
of riding too?

--
uniextreme - Funkadelic Unicyclist
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I think I will be doing other types of riding to.

--
Greenchicken_13 - The Flying Turkey
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I just realised something, I don't even think theres many
places to go muniing around my area.🙁 I got to really think
about what I want to spend my money on, Thank you all for
repling though.

--
Greenchicken_13 - The Flying Turkey
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build your own

buy separate parts abd then construct your own uni because
this way you wont be paying for parts you dont need, for
example if you buy a complete uni you will replace the
saddle and pedals amd depending on your price range/style of
riding you may upgrade crank arms (especially if you have a
square tapered hub) and frame. here is what i did:

miyata airseat conversion yuni 26" frame alex dx32 rim/
suzue hub wheelset 24x3 arrow downhill tire bulletptoof
pedals BE crankarms

so, first the airseat. i got this because when i do muni, i
like to make it an entire days trip. the airseat is by far
the most comfortable seat and your butt will thank you if
you get it.

the yuni frame. while not a great frame, its cheap and has
a great crown for one footed tricks. some of the completed
munis have no crown on the frame and so if you plan to do
freestyle you will need to upgrade; or, if you have a lOT
of extra cash you may want to get a hunter frame or
something similar.

the wheelset. i have been happy with the suzue hub. i live
in
DC/virginia and i rarely come across a drop while riding
trails that i would not do because i lack a splined hub.
i do, though, hate cotterless cranks. the pyramid nut
always comes loose and i need to buy new cranks every
month ot two. the good thing about some of the completed
unis (onza and kh) is that they have cheaper splined hub
so you dont feel bad about paying 300 for a profile. i
plan to upgrade to a splined hub for my uni very soon.
ill probably get a profile. im just tired of bending
crankarms and tightening pyramid nuts.

the tire. you need a 3" wide tire for muni. i guess a
smaller one would be fun because its more challenging, but
if you want to ride to full potential get a 3". the arrow is
much cheaper than the gazz but will wear out faster if you
ride it on street (i dont have a gazz so this comparison is
based on my arrow and my friend's gazz).

bulletproof pedals are good because they are cheap and have
good pins. the spindle will bend after a lot of riding but
they are definitely worth the cost and work great.

i listed BEs as my crankarms but i have gone through 4
different types of crankarms (BE, torker, united, and sun).
the torkers bent beyond repair in less than one hour of
trail riding, the BEs lasted about 15 and the two others
have surprisingly lasted hundreds before they died. i have
nimbus x cranks coming in the mail so ill update later how
well the work.

this is all i have to offer but i will reiterate that
building your own is fun and makes it easier to have exactly
what you want. oh yeah, my set up was about 300 usd, maybe a
little more. i rode it for muni, trials, and freestyle but
now i have an onza 20" on which i can do trials and freestyl
so i can save my muni for dirt use only. good luck and sorry
for making you read this dreadfully long post. but if you
are into reading really long stuff might i suggest
dostoevsky's the brothers karamazov. i just finished and
really enjoyed it.........

--
muniracer - Hell On Wheel

The Hell on Wheel Unicycle Gang owns you!!
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How about this one.
tinyurl.com595rOpen ↗

Air seat, Yuni Frame, Profile hub/cranks, Doublewide rim....

Mojoe

--
Mojoe - DILLIGAF

Nothing to see here... move along.
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I knew that was coming.

--
TheObieOne3226 - Extreme Halfb*ker

Grabbin your butt? That's not very lady-like!

My chocolates! Come back chocolates! I didn't mean what I said.
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Mojoe is offering a great deal. If I was in the market for a
Muni, I would definately bid on this ride. Good Luck!!! --chirokid--

--
chirokid

"my gyroscope is in my head......." Zod
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If you've belatedly realised that there is nowhere locally
that you can ride MUni, that suggests to me that you haven't
done much MUni yet.

If so, then you don't yet know what sort of MUni you
will enjoy.

Will you enjoy riding 5, 10 or 15 miles (or more) on rough
tracks and across fields?

Will you enjoy riding short but extremely difficult
hilly sections?

Up or down, or both?

Or will you prefer staying in one small area and
riding really difficult lines across the same patch of
uneven ground?

For long distance, a bigger wheel is good.

For steep hills on firm ground, a smaller wheel is good.

For drops and jumps, a small wheel with a fat tyre is good.

For seriously uneven ground, mud and puddles, a big
wheel is good.

For long distance cross country, an ordinary (non splined)
hub is perfectly adequate.

For jumps and drops, I believe that a splined hub will
last longer.

I'm told air seats are comfortable. If you're riding MUNi
you spend a lot of time standing up anyway! A non-air seat
is perfectly good for 10
- 20 mile rides.

A good compromise is a 24 inch wheel with a fat (3 inch)
tyre, cranks around 125 - 150 mm (170 are for very serious
hills only) and pinned pedals. A good metal handle on the
seat makes a big difference.

Why not buy a good base model, upgrade it bit by bit (pedals
will be the first upgrade) and find out what you really
enjoy, then build your second MUni to suit your needs a few
months later?

--
Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling
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I was wondering is it a bad idea to use a muni for Trials?
Will it break faster?

--
Greenchicken_13 - The Flying Turkey
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chirokid said:

*Mojoe is offering a great deal. If I was in the market
for a Muni, I would definately bid on this ride. Good
Luck!!! --chirokid-- *

I wasn't insulting him for plugging his sale. I know it's a
great deal.

Edit:New Page!!!(already?)

--
TheObieOne3226 - Extreme Halfb*ker

Grabbin your butt? That's not very lady-like!

My chocolates! Come back chocolates! I didn't mean what I said.
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How do you do big drops and large staircases without hurting yourself?
Theres a huge flight of stairs at my high school which I would like to
tackle and I just got the new torker which I think could take the drops
but I don't think I could. The DX torker is a really good muni for its
price range and is a lot better for distance riding. I took it on the
trail I usually rode on my old torker and after doing ten miles there is
one thing to describe it. Ahhhh..... velo seat...😄

--
unidude9
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Mojoe said:

*How about this one. tinyurl.com595rOpen ↗

Air seat, Yuni Frame, Profile hub/cranks, Doublewide
rim....

Mojoe *

It looks very tempting but it will only ship to U.S.🙁 I am
in Canada, O well.

--
Greenchicken_13 - The Flying Turkey
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unidude9 said:

*How do you do big drops and large staircases without
hurting yourself? Theres a huge flight of stairs at my
high school which I would like to tackle and I just got
the new torker which I think could take the drops but I
don't think I could. The DX torker is a really good muni
for its price range and is a lot better for distance
riding. I took it on the trail I usually rode on my old
torker and after doing ten miles there is one thing to
describe it. Ahhhh..... velo seat...😄 *

I just lower my seat a whole bunch and "shock" the landing.
By this I mean absorb it as much as possible with your
body. Bend at the knees and flex your body. This extends
the time over which the impact occurs and causes less force
on your body and unicycle. When doing side-hops down stairs
and such make sure you land with the unicycle leading your
body, but not by much. If you don't you can taco your rim
or fold the tire off
it.

The biggest thing I had trouble with when I first did drops
was confidence. You need to be confident in yourself and
your unicycle. Don't hop up to the edge of somethign and
just sit there. If you're gonna do it, do it fast. The
longer you think about it, the more you're going to think
about bad outcomes. The more you think about bad outcomes,
the more likely they are to come true. So if you think you
can land a trick, just go try it. But start small and work
your way up.

--
TheObieOne3226 - Extreme Halfb*ker

Grabbin your butt? That's not very lady-like!

My chocolates! Come back chocolates! I didn't mean what I said.
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unidude9 said:

*How do you do big drops and large staircases without
hurting yourself? Theres a huge flight of stairs at my
high school which I would like to tackle and I just got
the new torker which I think could take the drops but I
don't think I could. The DX torker is a really good muni
for its price range and is a lot better for distance
riding. I took it on the trail I usually rode on my old
torker and after doing ten miles there is one thing to
describe it. Ahhhh..... velo seat...😄 *

As a general rule, when I ride down stairs I first hop up
the set. That seems to make the stairs look less daunting.

Drops are a little different cause I can't hop all that
high. As OB1 said, confidence is a big part of it.

Good luck, Daniel

--
daino149 - How's it going, Texas?

there ain't enough body armor in the country for me to try that. -- Ken
on the mtbr forum in reference to MUni
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