BB XT install question

Slacker said:

Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?

Usually the "body" side is on the right; cup on left. (AFAIK, that is.)

Bill "got directions?" S.

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the

shell?

Quoted message said:

thx

There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.

--
DTW .../\.../\.../\...

I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing.
The rest I've just wasted.

S o r n i said:

Slacker said:

Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?

Usually the "body" side is on the right; cup on left. (AFAIK, that
is.)

Bill "got directions?" S.

That's the way I started it, just needed to make sure... thanks!

Directions... I thought you're supposed to read those things after the install/catastrophic failure.
--
Slacker

D T W .../\... said:

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message -"]news:[email hidden]-
berlin.de...

Quoted message said:

Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?

thx

There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.

Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
(excellent) excuse.

What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large 1/2" ratchet wrench. Plus, I
also have a torque wrench. Is this not good enough?
--
Slacker

Slacker said:

S o r n i said:

Slacker said:

Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?

Usually the "body" side is on the right; cup on left. (AFAIK, that
is.)

Bill "got directions?" S.

That's the way I started it, just needed to make sure... thanks!

Directions... I thought you're supposed to read those things after the install/catastrophic
failure.

Just keep torquing (sp?) until you hear the /CRACK!/ and then back it off a bit.

Bill "actually installed new drivetrain on the Swithblade recently without breaking anything (or
gushing blood)" S.

">

Quoted message said:

Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
(excellent) excuse.

What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large

1/2"

Quoted message said:

ratchet wrench. Plus, I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good

enough?

Quoted message said:

--
Slacker

It's a home made gizmo kind of like this guide thingy. Not really necessary if your careful with the
socket. It really is helpful if you have one that's difficult to remove as you can easily ding up
the teeth of the BB lock nut. I got a carriage bolt that fit thru the BB with nuts and washers to
clamp the socket to the BB. Then you have to turn it with a wrench. Grease the BB threads!

parktool.comFR 5GBIG.shtmlOpen ↗

DTW .../\.../\.../\...

I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing. The rest I've just wasted.

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

D T W .../\... said:

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message -"]news:[email hidden]-
berlin.de...

Quoted message said:

Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?

thx

There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.

Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
(excellent) excuse.

What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large

1/2"

Quoted message said:

ratchet wrench. Plus, I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good

enough?

Quoted message said:

--
Slacker

Ha , I'd forgotten this trick:

parktool.comFAQcartdg.shtmlOpen ↗

--
DTW .../\.../\.../\...

I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing.
The rest I've just wasted.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Directions... I thought you're supposed to read those things after the install/catastrophic
failure.

Just keep torquing (sp?) until you hear the /CRACK!/ and then back it off

a

Quoted message said:

bit.

Bill "actually installed new drivetrain on the Swithblade recently without breaking anything (or
gushing blood)" S.

Did he say Swish Blade?

--
DTW .../\.../\.../\...

I've spent most of my money on mountain biking and windsurfing.
The rest I've just wasted.

D T W .../\... said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Directions... I thought you're supposed to read those things after the install/catastrophic
failure.

Just keep torquing (sp?) until you hear the /CRACK!/ and then back it off a bit.

Bill "actually installed new drivetrain on the Swithblade recently without breaking anything (or
gushing blood)" S.

Did he say Swish Blade?

Ith a nithe byke.

Bill "smart ass" S.

In "]news:[email hidden],
Slacker <[email hidden]> typed:

Quoted message said:

D T W .../\... said:

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message -"]news:[email hidden]-
berlin.de...

Quoted message said:

Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?

thx

There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.

Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
(excellent) excuse.

Your PC runs on batteries I guess?! LOL!!!

Quoted message said:

What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large 1/2" ratchet wrench. Plus,
I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good enough?

You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how I do it.

pbase.com16818276Open ↗

It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required torque
this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)

For square taper BB's I bolt the tool to the axle.

Mike

Michael Dart said:

In "]news:[email hidden], Slacker <[email hidden]> typed:

Quoted message said:

D T W .../\... said:

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message -"]news:[email hidden]-
berlin.de...
> Is there a preference as to which side goes on the drive side of the shell?
>
> thx
>
>

There should be an L & R written on the BB. It should be installed from the drive side. The tool
needs some help too. Make a clamp with threaded rod and washers to hold it in place.

Good gosh oh molly, you're right! Hey, we had a power outage this morning, and that's my
(excellent) excuse.

Your PC runs on batteries I guess?! LOL!!!

Come-on man, that's so old school... it's all about solar power now ;-)

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large 1/2" ratchet wrench. Plus,
I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good enough?

You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how
I do it.

pbase.com16818276Open ↗

It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required
torque this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)

Sheesh, you're not kidding. I didn't realize that my torque wrench only goes up to 250 lbs, not the
360 required. Dang, I know I changed my cranks at least two times before without the proper torque
wrench... never had a problem, at least not yet :-(

I nearly pulled a muscle last night installing the BB. I thought my Thomson post was going to snap!

Quoted message said:

For square taper BB's I bolt the tool to the axle.

Mike

"D T W .../\..." <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]... have to turn it with a wrench.

Quoted message said:

Grease the BB threads!

Or use plumber's pipe joint compound (aka pipe dope) on them. I've been using this instead of grease
for several years now and have not had any problems with noise or loosening like I used to have when
I used grease.

"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Michael Dart said:

Quoted message said:

What is this clamp thing you're talking bout? I have the tool in large 1/2" ratchet wrench.
Plus, I also have a torque wrench. Is this not good enough?

You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how I
do it.

pbase.com16818276Open ↗

It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required
torque this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)

Sheesh, you're not kidding. I didn't realize that my torque wrench only

goes

Quoted message said:

up to 250 lbs, not the 360 required. Dang, I know I changed my cranks at least two times before
without the proper torque wrench... never had a problem, at least not yet :-(

I nearly pulled a muscle last night installing the BB. I thought my

Thomson

Quoted message said:

post was going to snap!

Are you sure you're reading your units correctly?. The service instructions I have for Shimano stuff
all specify 50-70 Nm (435-608 INCH-lbs). for bottom brackets This translates to about 50 FOOT-lbs at
the high end. That's way less than half scale on my 1/2" Craftsman torque wrench and to obtain it
takes about 35 lbs applied to the end of it's 17" (1.42'😉 span . Hardly enough force to snap a
Thomson post.

When I install BB's, I find it much easier to do the final torquing with the bike on standing on the
ground instead of on a workstand. I hold the bike against me and bend over it to reach the BB on the
opposite side. That way I can easily press the tool against the BB with one hand while tightening
with the other. I've never had problems with it slipping this way or felt the need for some other
home-made tool.

KLydesdale said:

Quoted message said:

"Slacker"

Sheesh, you're not kidding. I didn't realize that my torque wrench only goes up to 250 lbs, not
the 360 required. Dang, I know I changed my cranks at least two times before without the proper
torque wrench... never had a problem, at least not yet :-(

I nearly pulled a muscle last night installing the BB. I thought my Thomson post was going
to snap!

Are you sure you're reading your units correctly?. The service instructions I have for Shimano
stuff all specify 50-70 Nm (435-608 INCH-lbs). for bottom brackets This translates to about 50 FOOT-
lbs at the high end. That's way less than half scale on my 1/2" Craftsman torque wrench and to
obtain it takes about 35 lbs applied to the end of it's 17" (1.42'😉 span . Hardly enough force to
snap a Thomson post.

I was just going off memory and Park's website, and a little hyperbole for good measure. But my
little torque wrench only goes up to 250 in lbs... now I'm remembering.... I bought the wrench to
install my Easton carbon bar and Mag stem, so I didn't need the Big Torque wrench back then.

Quoted message said:

When I install BB's, I find it much easier to do the final torquing with the bike on standing on
the ground instead of on a workstand. I hold the bike against me and bend over it to reach the BB
on the opposite side. That way I can easily press the tool against the BB with one hand while
tightening with the other. I've never had problems with it slipping this way or felt the need for
some other home-made tool.

Good tip. Thanks!

---
Slacker - just realized I need another 1/2 a main pivot bearing from Turner
:-(

Michael Dart said:

You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how
I do it.

pbase.com16818276Open ↗

It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required
torque this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)

For square taper BB's I bolt the tool to the axle.

Mike

Do you say F tight... lol .... just came back from Home Depot. A bunch-o-washers, one 3/8" bolt
(long), and one of these bledsoerentals.comPipeWrMed.jpgOpen ↗ 24" baby. That
sucker is going on NOW!
--
Slacker

In "]news:[email hidden],
Slacker <[email hidden]> typed:

Quoted message said:

Michael Dart said:

You'll have to use a "metric-left handed-Crescent hammer" (big adj. wrench) but this is how
I do it.

pbase.com16818276Open ↗

It keeps the tool from slipping and screwing up the splines. You can easily get the required
torque this way (which I believe is 'f*ing.tight' IN/LBS.)

For square taper BB's I bolt the tool to the axle.

Mike

Do you say F tight... lol .... just came back from Home Depot. A bunch-o-washers, one 3/8" bolt
(long), and one of these bledsoerentals.comPipeWrMed.jpgOpen ↗ 24" baby.
That sucker is going on NOW!

Jeez-o-flip!!! Just a big crescent wrench would do... ;^) Don't chew up the BB tool.

If you use the bolt to unscrew the BB remember to loosen the bolt after the BB cup breaks loose or
you'll be backing it out against the bolt.

Mike

Quoted message said:

Jeez-o-flip!!! Just a big crescent wrench would do... ;^) Don't chew up the BB tool.

If you use the bolt to unscrew the BB remember to loosen the bolt after the BB cup breaks loose or
you'll be backing it out against the bolt.

Mike

hehehe... hey, 15" Crescent $28.00 / Big Ass pipe wrench $18.00 ... the pipe wrench worked amazingly
well. The damn thing is so heavy you hardly had to apply any pressure to get up to F tight.

BTW, thanks for the picture of your tool; I would've never figured this part out, and probably
would've jacked up my BB.

Now to solve the main pivot bearing problem... what the hell is this bike a hand made Ferrari or
something, nothing that is stock fits properly !!!
--
Slacker

Slacker said:

BTW, thanks for the picture of your tool...jacked up

Jeez, no one wants to see that. {wince}

Bill "OK, off to ride on ACTUAL DIRT again" S.

In "]news:[email hidden],
Slacker <[email hidden]> typed:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Jeez-o-flip!!! Just a big crescent wrench would do... ;^) Don't chew up the BB tool.

If you use the bolt to unscrew the BB remember to loosen the bolt after the BB cup breaks loose
or you'll be backing it out against the bolt.

Mike

hehehe... hey, 15" Crescent $28.00 / Big Ass pipe wrench $18.00 ... the pipe wrench worked
amazingly well. The damn thing is so heavy you hardly had to apply any pressure to get up to
F tight.

That'll do it.

Quoted message said:

BTW, thanks for the picture of your tool; I would've never figured this part out, and probably
would've jacked up my BB.

Ahem...sure ;^)

Quoted message said:

Now to solve the main pivot bearing problem... what the hell is this bike a hand made Ferrari or
something, nothing that is stock fits properly !!!

Welcome to the wonderful world of DH bike maintenance.

Mike