Is my crankset HollowTech?

And the B refers to the ramping pattern--there were two, A and B.

Hollowtech II was introduced with the Dura-Ace 7800, Ultegra 6600, and 105 5600 cranksets. It is distinguished by the hollow pipe BB axle (25mm diameter, I believe) and hollow forged crank arms. With 7900 and 6700, hollow forging was extended to the outer chainrings.

While your Superglide chainrings should work seamlessly with first generation Hollowtech II cranks, they are not Hollowtech II per se.

Attach a photo of your cranks and we can advise you on what tools you need.

It's this crankset.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/images/wel1_2100.jpg

You can zoom in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by urge2kill [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
It's this crankset.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/images/wel1_2100.jpg

You can zoom in.

THAT particular bike does not have a Hollowtech II crank-and/or-BB ...

More than likely, the BB spindle has a square taper interface.

Do I need any special tools for it?

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by urge2kill
Do I need any special tools for it?

Depending on how the crank is secured to the BB spindle you will need EITHER a generic 8mm Allen Wrench OR a 14mm (9/'16" if you don't have Metric tools & are desperate) Socket + Wrench ...

After that, you will need a Crank Puller which is designed to remove crank arms from Square Taper (vs. Octalink or ISIS) Bottom Bracket spindles ...

THEN, you will EITHER need a Shimano-compatible Cartridge BB tool ...

OR if it is not a cartridge-type BB then you will need some vintage BB tools or you can possibly substitute a fairly large, generic Crescent wrench + "hook" Wrench for the lock ring on the non-driveside AND THEN probably a "pin" Spanner Wrench for the cup ...

Great, huh?

BTW. The driveside cup has a LEFT hand thread ...

And, the non-driveside has a RIGHT hand thread.

Beneath the protective plugs, there were hexagonal bolts labeled "VP 12.9". Nothing was beneath the non-drive side bolt (image).

[IMG]cyclingforums.com400Open ↗[/IMG]

The crankarm wouldn't come off the bottom bracket, but I didn't try very hard.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by alfeng
After that, you will need a Crank Puller which is designed to remove crank arms from Square Taper (vs. Octalink or ISIS) Bottom Bracket spindles ...

Do I absolutely need it? Won't I have to remove the crankarm right now to figure out whether it has a cartidge?

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by urge2kill
Beneath the protective plugs, there were hexagonal bolts labeled "VP 12.9". Nothing was beneath the non-drive side bolt (image).

[IMG]cyclingforums.com400Open ↗[/IMG]

The crankarm wouldn't come off the bottom bracket, but I didn't try very hard.

Do I absolutely need it? Won't I have to remove the crankarm right now to figure out whether it has a cartidge?

If you intend to re-install the cranks and use them, you will need the extractor.
[IMG]cyclingforums.com400Open ↗[/IMG]

Pry the cranks with a lever only if you've already damaged the threads for the extractor. This is a last resort and may render the cranks unusable.

Most likely, you have a Shimano-style cartridge bottom bracket. The tool for removing and installing that looks like this:
[IMG]cyclingforums.com400Open ↗[/IMG]
Here is the Park Tool page that explains how to remove and install square-taper crank arms: parktool.comcrank installation and removal square spindle typeOpen ↗

And here's the Park Tool page that explains removal and installation of Shimano-style cartridge bottom brackets: parktool.comcartridge bearing type bottom bracket service bbtOpen ↗