Grease for threads

"Tom Anderson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Should i grease the threads before putting them together, and if so, what
with? Currently i have Finish Line Cross-Country chain oil, 3-in-1 oil,
and GT-85 - would any of those do? GT-85 is a PTFE coating rather than a
grease, but i'm hoping 3-in-1 might be okay. Surely you can use 3-in-1 for
anything!

None of the three lubricants can be described as a grease - they are all
oils. You have listed them in order of decreasing retention i.e. the chain
oil will han around longr than the 3 in 1 adn the GT-85 will disappear
first.

Some folk, myself included, oil the threads and periodically remove and
re-lubricate the components as part of servicing their bikes.

If it's grease you want then something like copper slip anti-seize grease is
the stuff to use. It's avalable from Halfords and the like.

Hope that helps.

Tom Anderson said:

Hiyas,

Hope everyone is having some good cycling at the moment. Come on,
summer!
I'm soon (as soon as the deliveryman comes) to replace various bits
on my bike, cranks and cassette among them. There are a couple of
places there where bits will be attached to other bits by threads
which will then stay done up for the lifetime of the components -
pedals, cranks, cassette lockring. Should i grease the threads before
putting them together, and if so, what with? Currently i have Finish
Line Cross-Country chain oil, 3-in-1 oil, and GT-85 - would any of
those do? GT-85 is a PTFE coating rather than a grease, but i'm
hoping 3-in-1 might be okay. Surely you can use 3-in-1 for anything!

I like blue loctite and copper slip, depending on how much I want it to stay
done up or be easy to undo...

Doki said:

Tom Anderson wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

pedals, cranks, cassette lockring. Should i grease the threads
before putting them together, and if so, what with? Currently i
have Finish Line Cross-Country chain oil, 3-in-1 oil, and GT-85 -
would any of those do? GT-85 is a PTFE coating rather than a
grease, but i'm hoping 3-in-1 might be okay. Surely you can use
3-in-1 for anything!

I like blue loctite and copper slip, depending on how much I want
it to stay done up or be easy to undo...

In answer to the first question, yes you should grease them. The
issue of whether to grease the taper on cotterless cranks is a matter
of deep religious argument, but I say you should. The issue of grease
on threads is less contentions, and I say you should.

As Doki says, either copper grease or loctite. They are both
available in 'pritt-stick' (or lipstick, depending upon what your
other past-times are) like packaging, which I find the best way of
getting the stuff onto threads. Well worth looking out for, if you
can find it like that.

A small pack of copper grease in particular lasts forever, I'd
definitely add it to your collection of lubricants, for almost any
threads.

regards, Ian SMith
--
|\ /| no .sig
|o o|
|/ \|

Tom Anderson said:

I'm soon (as soon as the deliveryman comes) to replace various bits
on my bike, cranks and cassette among them. There are a couple of
places there where bits will be attached to other bits by threads
which will then stay done up for the lifetime of the components -
pedals, cranks, cassette lockring. Should i grease the threads before
putting them together, and if so, what with? Currently i have Finish
Line Cross-Country chain oil, 3-in-1 oil, and GT-85 - would any of
those do? GT-85 is a PTFE coating rather than a grease, but i'm
hoping 3-in-1 might be okay. Surely you can use 3-in-1 for anything!

Oil is better than nothing, but doesn't last long. Grease lasts longer.
Copper anti-seize lasts practically forever, thanks to the metal flakes -
but is very messy.

Loctite Threadlocker: I only use on troublesome parts that I can't get, or
don't want to get, tight enough otherwise. It can prevent corrosion when
the threads are saturated with it, but also it makes removal more difficult.
There should normally be no need for it.

PTFE is only an additive in GT85. It's mostly solvent and light oil.
Grease is oil + thickner. The thickner holds the oil in place and prevents
it from evaporating - though it may dry up eventually, depending on the type
and conditions.

~PB

Doki said:

"Ian Smith" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

In answer to the first question, yes you should grease them. The
issue of whether to grease the taper on cotterless cranks is a matter
of deep religious argument, but I say you should. The issue of
grease on threads is less contentions, and I say you should.

It very much depends on what it is. A lot of things shouldn't be
greased or loctited, in particular anything that should be tightened
to a specific torque - grease completely alters the torque reading
for a given amount of tightness. Generally you're talking automotive
stuff (head bolts in particular spring to mind) by that point and not
bikes.

It's generally a very good idea to use something on the threads of bicycle
parts to prevent seizure. You can use your own judgement rather than a
torque wrench, or allow for any lubrication when using a torque wrench by
using a different value than you might otherwise. You can do this with
crank tapers as well, if you like.

Some parts come with dry Loctite on the threads anyway.

~PB

Tom Anderson said:

Hiyas,

Hope everyone is having some good cycling at the moment. Come on, summer!

I'm soon (as soon as the deliveryman comes) to replace various bits on
my bike, cranks and cassette among them. There are a couple of places

Well I use normalish moly grease when fitting pedals because that's
what I have. They are always dead easy to remove again.

Jon

"Ian Smith" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Doki said:

Tom Anderson wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

pedals, cranks, cassette lockring. Should i grease the threads
before putting them together, and if so, what with? Currently i
have Finish Line Cross-Country chain oil, 3-in-1 oil, and GT-85 -
would any of those do? GT-85 is a PTFE coating rather than a
grease, but i'm hoping 3-in-1 might be okay. Surely you can use
3-in-1 for anything!

I like blue loctite and copper slip, depending on how much I want
it to stay done up or be easy to undo...

In answer to the first question, yes you should grease them. The
issue of whether to grease the taper on cotterless cranks is a matter
of deep religious argument, but I say you should. The issue of grease
on threads is less contentions, and I say you should.

It very much depends on what it is. A lot of things shouldn't be greased or
loctited, in particular anything that should be tightened to a specific
torque - grease completely alters the torque reading for a given amount of
tightness. Generally you're talking automotive stuff (head bolts in
particular spring to mind) by that point and not bikes.

Ian Smith said:

A small pack of copper grease in particular lasts forever, I'd
definitely add it to your collection of lubricants, for almost any
threads.

regards, Ian SMith

Wasn't copper grease in the bad books a few years ago - something to do
with speeding up bi-metallic corrosion? Is Teflon grease also useable?

Steve C

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 15:05:20 +0100

Tom Anderson said:

I'm soon (as soon as the deliveryman comes) to replace various bits
on my bike, cranks and cassette among them. There are a couple of
places there where bits will be attached to other bits by threads
which will then stay done up for the lifetime of the components -
pedals, cranks, cassette lockring. Should i grease the threads before
putting them together, and if so, what with? Currently i have Finish
Line Cross-Country chain oil, 3-in-1 oil, and GT-85 - would any of
those do? GT-85 is a PTFE coating rather than a grease, but i'm
hoping 3-in-1 might be okay. Surely you can use 3-in-1 for anything!

I'd throw the 3-in-1 away because it's useless for bikes, although you
might use it for a squeaky hinge or something. I use a general
purpose moly grease for pedals, seatpins, quill stems etc. and nothing
on cranks (but some people will tell you they should be greased). I've
never encountered a seized cassette lockring and I've never greased
one.

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 22:57:32 +0100, Rob Morley <[email hidden]>
said in <20080615225732.077ddd18@bluemoon>:

Quoted message said:

I'd throw the 3-in-1 away because it's useless for bikes

Actually not bad for brake pivots and one or two other applications,
but generally less good than the specialist bike lubes.

Guy
--
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

85% of helmet statistics are made up, 69% of them at CHS, Puget Sound

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 22:59:48 +0100

Just zis Guy said:

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 22:57:32 +0100, Rob Morley <[email hidden]>
said in <20080615225732.077ddd18@bluemoon>:

Quoted message said:

I'd throw the 3-in-1 away because it's useless for bikes

Actually not bad for brake pivots and one or two other applications,

It gums up - Sturmey Archer oil (if you can still get it) is a similar
product but doesn't seem to turn into a congealed dirty mess. I tend to
use engine oil because there's a part can in the cupboard and it works
fine.

Rob Morley said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I'd throw the 3-in-1 away because it's useless for bikes

Quoted message said:

Actually not bad for brake pivots and one or two other applications,

It gums up - Sturmey Archer oil (if you can still get it) is a similar
product but doesn't seem to turn into a congealed dirty mess.  I tend to
use engine oil because there's a part can in the cupboard and it works
fine.

I tend to use engine oil for chains too because I've got a big can of
it and I can let the whole chain soak in a margarine tub full.
Similarly for grease I use a big pot of lithium grease I bought for
landrover maintainance years ago.

For smaller jobs I've just bought a bottle of Green Oil because it
looks like a good and right-on thing. Haven't had chance to use it
yet but the magazine reviews like it. http://www.green-oil.net/

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 23:07:02 +0100, Rob Morley <[email hidden]>
said in <20080615230702.3381991a@bluemoon>:

Quoted message said:

Sturmey Archer oil (if you can still get it) is a similar
product but doesn't seem to turn into a congealed dirty mess.

Halfrauds (spit, spit) bike oil is what I use right now, it's a
light machine oil.

Guy
--
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

85% of helmet statistics are made up, 69% of them at CHS, Puget Sound

On Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:03:12 +0100

Just zis Guy said:

Halfrauds (spit, spit)

Halfords is fine as long as you think of it as a supermarket rather
than a bike shop.

On Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:27:13 +0100, Rob Morley <[email hidden]>
said in <20080616142713.6b20e73f@bluemoon>:

Quoted message said:

Halfords is fine as long as you think of it as a supermarket rather
than a bike shop.

Not really, no. I remember when they drove most of the useful car
parts shops off the high street, but did not themselves sell more
than the basic bits, making it much harder to get the part you
actually wanted. Same with bikes, IME. They simply don't carry
stuff that a good bike shop usually will, like replacement rings.

Guy
--
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk

85% of helmet statistics are made up, 69% of them at CHS, Puget Sound

Just zis Guy said:

Not really, no. I remember when they drove most of the useful car
parts shops off the high street, but did not themselves sell more
than the basic bits, making it much harder to get the part you
actually wanted. Same with bikes, IME. They simply don't carry
stuff that a good bike shop usually will, like replacement rings.

While they may be convenient for very basic stuff, I've got to the point
where I'm simply not prepared to use them any more. The Carrera Subway 8
is a very nice bike, but I got one with a duff back wheel (it started
breaking spokes under normal use - I'm large but not _that_ large). LBS
said "this will need a new wheel". But it was still under warranty, so I
went to Halfords to get it done free. "No need for a new wheel, we'll
just replace the spokes, come back in two days", they said. Three weeks
later (noting that they have never once managed to phone me, I always
have to chase them at my expense) they handed me back the bike. With the
back nut finger-loose. And after another 20 miles or so the wheel fell
apart, just as predicted, because the rim was knackered.

But why complain at that point? If I'd said "this is not of merchantable
quality", they'd have offered to fix it - and _my bike would have been
back in the hands of Halford's_. Since I wasn't prepared to trust them
to touch it again, I just took it back to the LBS and got the wheel
build done instead.

--
When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of
the human race.
-- H. G. Wells

On Mon, 16 Jun 2008 15:36:17 +0100

Just zis Guy said:

On Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:27:13 +0100, Rob Morley <[email hidden]>
said in <20080616142713.6b20e73f@bluemoon>:

Quoted message said:

Halfords is fine as long as you think of it as a supermarket rather
than a bike shop.

Not really, no. I remember when they drove most of the useful car
parts shops off the high street, but did not themselves sell more
than the basic bits, making it much harder to get the part you
actually wanted. Same with bikes, IME. They simply don't carry
stuff that a good bike shop usually will, like replacement rings.

So you'll never buy stuff on-line despite the fact that it's cheap and
in stock, while your LBS will have to order it and charge more? Useful
car parts shops aren't on the high street anyway, they're in dingy
low-rent backstreet premises.

vernon said:

"Tom Anderson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Should i grease the threads before putting them together, and if so,
what with? Currently i have Finish Line Cross-Country chain oil, 3-in-1
oil, and GT-85 - would any of those do? GT-85 is a PTFE coating rather
than a grease, but i'm hoping 3-in-1 might be okay. Surely you can use
3-in-1 for anything!

None of the three lubricants can be described as a grease - they are all
oils. You have listed them in order of decreasing retention i.e. the
chain oil will han around longr than the 3 in 1 adn the GT-85 will
disappear first.

Some folk, myself included, oil the threads and periodically remove and
re-lubricate the components as part of servicing their bikes.

If it's grease you want then something like copper slip anti-seize
grease is the stuff to use. It's avalable from Halfords and the like.

Thanks, and thanks to everyone else who's contributed to this thread, for
the help.

I am now on the lookout for some copper grease.

I tried two bike shops and a tool shop this lunchtime, and no joy. I don't
think there's a Halford's anywhere near me. Oh, Stoke Newington,
apparently. Anyway, there's bound to be a hardware shop somewhere in town
that will sell it - maybe Robert Dyas, or the random tool shop a few doors
up from it.

One of the bike shops did have Park Tool ASC-1 anti-seize compound, at a
tenner a go, but i was a bit dubious about that.

tom

--
Miscellaneous Terrorists: Ducks | Bird Flu | Avian flu | Jimbo Wales |
Backstreet Boys | The Al Queda Network | Tesco -- Uncyclopedia

Doki said:

Tom Anderson said:

I'm soon (as soon as the deliveryman comes) to replace various bits on
my bike, cranks and cassette among them. There are a couple of places
there where bits will be attached to other bits by threads which will
then stay done up for the lifetime of the components - pedals, cranks,
cassette lockring. Should i grease the threads before putting them
together, and if so, what with? Currently i have Finish Line
Cross-Country chain oil, 3-in-1 oil, and GT-85 - would any of those do?
GT-85 is a PTFE coating rather than a grease, but i'm hoping 3-in-1
might be okay. Surely you can use 3-in-1 for anything!

I like blue loctite and copper slip, depending on how much I want it to
stay done up or be easy to undo...

In my case, i want them to be undoable. Pedals are threaded so that
peddalling keeps them tight, and i have a vague idea that neither crank
bolts nor cassette lockrings are under a lot of force when in use, so i'm
not worried about them falling out. I am worried about them seizing up
over the next couple of years of mistreatment!

tom

--
Miscellaneous Terrorists: Ducks | Bird Flu | Avian flu | Jimbo Wales |
Backstreet Boys | The Al Queda Network | Tesco -- Uncyclopedia