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Bottom bracket corrosion: can this bike be saved?

Started by Alexandre Kampouris · · Last activity · 17 posts · 986 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
27 April 2008
Last activity
28 April 2008
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Alexandre Kampouris
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  1. Dear all,

    I've had problems with the bottom bracket of my 2001-vintage touring
    bike for the last couple of years. I'm already considering acquiring a
    new bike, but I wonder whether the old one is absolutely beyond repair.

    Here are some pictures:
    http://radio-bip.qc.ca/Palier/photos.html

    The original Shimano cartridge-type bearing assembly began to wobble
    about two years ago (pictures 13 and 14). This initial trouble was
    caused by the ball bearing itself.

    I thought it would be a simple matter to replace the faulty part, but I
    was wrong.

    I purchased a replacement cartridge (not cheap, if I remember well), and
    the corresponding crank extractor (pictures 2 and 3), and attempted to
    remove the crank.

    After screwing the tool into the crank (pictures 4-6), I carefully
    started rotating the wrench in order to pull the crank, but to my horror
    I realized that I was actually very carefully stripping out the thread.
    (I think it was more a design flaw than an error of mine).

    I tried in vain to extract the crank using other means, so ended up
    bringing the bike to the shop. The part was replaced, but the mechanic
    told me he cussed a bit during that job.

    The old bearing showed signs of aluminium [a.k.a. aluminum] corrosion
    [pictures 8-13], see the pitting on the ring, in addition to the rust
    desposits from the frame on the threads, or what seem to be left of
    them. I remembered at that point my engineering school lectures and the
    stern warning putting dissimilar metals into contact. But, hey, if there
    are millions of bikes like that out there, why should I worry?

    I had no complaints about the replacement bearing until it conked out
    around Christmas 2007. The threaded fastening cup on the replacement
    Shimano part [which played the same role as the one on picture 9] was
    made of plastic, and now that I thought of it, the mechanic hadn't
    screwed it in entirely, probably because the rust prevented him. Now the
    bearing assembly was resting on only one side, and there was a huge
    amount of play.

    This time I was decide to do it myself. I tried to remove the crank, but
    the thread was still gone from the time before, and no amount of
    cajoling or violence could get the crank unstuck (pictures 15-16). I
    tried heat and WD-40, too.

    I bought a replacement Shimano crank assembly of a different design for
    about 55 EUR, including which seemed of a better design (see pixes
    17-25), and included cranks and sprockets.

    Here's an exploded view:
    http://radio-bip.qc.ca/Palier/EP1342656.pdf

    Since I had a replacement for everything, I felt I could let loose my
    butcher instincts, and hack away at all that junk which had made a
    pedestrian of me for some weeks (pictures 29-38).

    With the old bearing assembly out of the way, I was finally able to
    inspect the damage (pixes 39-41). I had never before disassembled a
    bottom bracket, so I wasn't sure whether this amount of rust was normal.

    Ah yes, the pictures also explained why the lighting system shorted out
    a few weeks before the trouble with the bearing reoccurred. I had
    attached a new wire on the frame's surface with tie-wraps a few weeks
    earlier.

    After cleaning the socket with a wire brush (#47) and applying some
    rust-remover, I was able to see that many threads were entirely gone
    (pixes 50-51), and the ones which remained were not in very good shape.

    I installed the new assembly (discovering that there was a prescribed
    torque for the screws and cup). The cup on the drive side had very
    little thread to catch, so I put two of the three O-rings on the left
    side. The third one was not necessary for the socket width.

    The result can be seen on pictures 52-54.

    Alas, the repair held only a few weeks. The right cup fell out of its
    thread, but is still held in by the crank, so the bike can be ridden
    [pictures 62-63]. So I'm back to wobbly cranks and front sprockets
    perpetually stuck at the middle setting.

    So what can I do now? Is the thing ruined forever? Is the bike
    dangerous? I can ride around the neighbourhood on that thing, but not
    much more. It's a shame, as I think I maintained this bike generally
    correctly. (Some tell me my problem stemmed from a manufacturing error,
    as the socket should have been drowned in grease. Others tell me I
    should have regularly greased the saddle tube to prevent water from
    seeping in, an idea which I found rather curious in earlier days).

    Another mechanic suggested I drown the thing in two-component epoxy glue
    formulated for metals - that would last me for the remainder of the
    bike's useful life. I found a product in the Uhu catalog, but no
    retailer seems to carry it. I found a putty of the brand "Pattex", but
    the load would quite probably exceed its specified limit, and there is
    the problem of properly filling the gap between the cup and the socket
    with something of the consistency of, well, putty.

    Any ideas? Is there a way to save this bike. BTW, I'm a big, heavy, and
    strong guy.

    Thanks,

    Alexandre
    ps: sorry for the saga-like explanation, I could have started with the
    current situation, but I thought that the full story would better convey
    my current, frustrated, state of mind.

  2. On Apr 27, 10:56 am, Alexandre Kampouris <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:


    Another mechanic suggested I drown the thing in two-component epoxy glue
    formulated for metals - that would last me for the remainder of the
    bike's useful life. I found a product in the Uhu catalog, but no
    retailer seems to carry it. I found a putty of the brand "Pattex", but
    the load would quite probably exceed its specified limit, and there is
    the problem of properly filling the gap between the cup and the socket
    with something of the consistency of, well, putty.

    Any ideas? Is there a way to save this bike. BTW, I'm a big, heavy, and
    strong guy.

    In the States that epoxy comes branded as JB Weld, and it's fun stuff.
    Glue your cat to your dog to your Mercedes--but I don't know if I'd
    trust it to keep a bottom bracket in place on an extended tour. It's
    cheap enough to experiment with if the frame is otherwise shot.

    If it were mine, and I was on a budget, I'd swap all the parts onto a
    commodity frame like something you can get at Nashbar on sale right
    now at $175 USD--an aluminum frame, which might be a plus as it looks
    like you're in a maritime environment.

  3. landotter said:

    On Apr 27, 10:56 am, Alexandre Kampouris <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Another mechanic suggested I drown the thing in two-component epoxy glue
    formulated for metals - that would last me for the remainder of the
    bike's useful life. I found a product in the Uhu catalog, but no
    retailer seems to carry it. I found a putty of the brand "Pattex", but
    the load would quite probably exceed its specified limit, and there is
    the problem of properly filling the gap between the cup and the socket
    with something of the consistency of, well, putty.

    Quoted message said:

    Any ideas? Is there a way to save this bike. BTW, I'm a big, heavy, and
    strong guy.

    In the States that epoxy comes branded as JB Weld, and it's fun stuff.
    Glue your cat to your dog to your Mercedes--but I don't know if I'd
    trust it to keep a bottom bracket in place on an extended tour. It's
    cheap enough to experiment with if the frame is otherwise shot.

    Does JB Weld really work with cats? I have had a hard time finding
    anything that really works well with gluing cats to my car. I am also
    considering gluing some squirrels to my forks as a warning to others.

    Quoted message said:

    If it were mine, and I was on a budget, I'd swap all the parts onto a
    commodity frame like something you can get at Nashbar on sale right
    now at $175 USD--an aluminum frame, which might be a plus as it looks
    like you're in a maritime environment.

    It looks like he went scuba diving with the the bike. The options are
    adding some brass to the BB and re-cutting the threads or using some
    gunk like JB Weld or that void-filling LocTite. The first option will
    ruin that fine paint job, I suppose there is a third option -- a
    threadless BB -- but that would mean buying a new crank. BTW, I would
    also check the steerer just to make sure that thing is not rusted
    through.. -- Jay Beattie.

  4. Jay Beattie said:
    landotter said:

    On Apr 27, 10:56 am, Alexandre Kampouris <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Another mechanic suggested I drown the thing in two-component epoxy glue
    formulated for metals - that would last me for the remainder of the
    bike's useful life. I found a product in the Uhu catalog, but no
    retailer seems to carry it. I found a putty of the brand "Pattex", but
    the load would quite probably exceed its specified limit, and there is
    the problem of properly filling the gap between the cup and the socket
    with something of the consistency of, well, putty.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Any ideas? Is there a way to save this bike. BTW, I'm a big, heavy, and
    strong guy.

    Quoted message said:

    In the States that epoxy comes branded as JB Weld, and it's fun stuff.
    Glue your cat to your dog to your Mercedes--but I don't know if I'd
    trust it to keep a bottom bracket in place on an extended tour. It's
    cheap enough to experiment with if the frame is otherwise shot.

    Does JB Weld really work with cats? I have had a hard time finding
    anything that really works well with gluing cats to my car.

    Absolutely! Just make sure to get JB Weld Feline, it's strawberry
    flavored, so cats won't lick it off while it sets up, but your
    rambunctious four year old will--give new meaning to "it's gonna stay
    like that" when they suck their thumb!

  5. Jay Beattie said:

    I am also
    considering gluing some squirrels to my forks as a warning to others.

    To other what? Squirrels, bikers or bike thieves?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If it were mine, and I was on a budget, I'd swap all the parts onto a
    commodity frame like something you can get at Nashbar on sale right
    now at $175 USD--an aluminum frame, which might be a plus as it looks
    like you're in a maritime environment.

    Aluminium is out of the question for me.

    I considered getting a new frame from the manufacturer, but I'd be
    without a bike for some weeks.

    I might just as well buy a new bicycle from another manufacturer, with
    comparable fittings (I have a candidate in sight), and use the old one
    as an organ donor, I know that I'd be able to reuse about everything but
    the squeal.

    If I do this, it would prevent the selection of options of hydraulic
    brakes in place of V-brakes. My other worry is whether I'd be able to
    find spare parts if I were to bring it back to North America, and from
    my last visit to bike stores in Montréal, I guess I'd better keep to
    (almost) plain vanilla stuff.

    I have a choice of either LX or XT gearings, I'm not sure what the
    difference is, besides that one is dearer than the other.

    Quoted message said:

    It looks like he went scuba diving with the the bike.

    I think not! It did see a couple of times the Baltic and North seas, but
    only seen. The thing spent most of its life tied outdoors in Berlin,
    Germany. I *may* have ridden it once or twice on icy days where some
    salt was strewn on the streets.

    Quoted message said:

    The options are
    adding some brass to the BB and re-cutting the threads

    Using a welder? Sounds like a big job.

    Quoted message said:

    or using some
    gunk like JB Weld or that void-filling LocTite. The first option will
    ruin that fine paint job, I suppose there is a third option -- a
    threadless BB -- but that would mean buying a new crank. BTW, I would
    also check the steerer just to make sure that thing is not rusted
    through.. -- Jay Beattie.

    Thanks, from your reaction I understand that this corrosion is unusual.
    I got the steerer fixed a while back, the locking nut had a broken
    thread, but I don't remember seeing any rust in there.

    Can you suggest any model of threadless crank? I thought that bearing
    cartridges had displaced all other kinds on the market.

    Regards,

    Alexandre

  6. Alexandre Kampouris said:
    Jay Beattie said:

    I am also
    considering gluing some squirrels to my forks as a warning to others.

    To other what? Squirrels, bikers or bike thieves?

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If it were mine, and I was on a budget, I'd swap all the parts onto a
    commodity frame like something you can get at Nashbar on sale right
    now at $175 USD--an aluminum frame, which might be a plus as it looks
    like you're in a maritime environment.

    Aluminium is out of the question for me.

    I considered getting a new frame from the manufacturer, but I'd be
    without a bike for some weeks.

    I might just as well buy a new bicycle from another manufacturer, with
    comparable fittings (I have a candidate in sight), and use the old one
    as an organ donor, I know that I'd be able to reuse about everything but
    the squeal.

    If I do this, it would prevent the selection of options of hydraulic
    brakes in place of V-brakes. My other worry is whether I'd be able to
    find spare parts if I were to bring it back to North America, and from
    my last visit to bike stores in Montréal, I guess I'd better keep to
    (almost) plain vanilla stuff.

    I have a choice of either LX or XT gearings, I'm not sure what the
    difference is, besides that one is dearer than the other.

    Quoted message said:

    It looks like he went scuba diving with the the bike.

    I think not! It did see a couple of times the Baltic and North seas, but
    only seen. The thing spent most of its life tied outdoors in Berlin,
    Germany. I *may* have ridden it once or twice on icy days where some
    salt was strewn on the streets.

    Quoted message said:

    The options are
    adding some brass to the BB and re-cutting the threads

    Using a welder? Sounds like a big job.

    Quoted message said:

    or using some
    gunk like JB Weld or that void-filling LocTite. The first option will
    ruin that fine paint job, I suppose there is a third option -- a
    threadless BB -- but that would mean buying a new crank. BTW, I would
    also check the steerer just to make sure that thing is not rusted
    through.. -- Jay Beattie.

    Thanks, from your reaction I understand that this corrosion is unusual.
    I got the steerer fixed a while back, the locking nut had a broken
    thread, but I don't remember seeing any rust in there.

    Can you suggest any model of threadless crank? I thought that bearing
    cartridges had displaced all other kinds on the market.


    Somebody suggested this threadless bottom bracket in an article a
    while back
    http://gaerlan.com/bikeparts/parts/crank/crank.html
    Look for the "YST" model.

    I don't know if the dimensions are right, and it would require the
    purchase of a new square taper crank, but worth a look if you're
    attached to this frame.

  7. landotter said:

    Absolutely! Just make sure to get JB Weld Feline, it's strawberry
    flavored, so cats won't lick it off while it sets up, but your
    rambunctious four year old will--give new meaning to "it's gonna stay
    like that" when they suck their thumb!

    I just found out the standard sort is available here in Germany:

    http://www.jbweld.de/

    However, the feline variety was strictly verboten by Sondererlass of the
    Bundestierschutzbehörde . Ach so!

    I did set foot a few weeks back in an *car*-accessories outlet to
    purchase a torque wrench so that I could tighten that crank assembly
    according to the instructions. I may have to face the antechrist again
    to get that stuff. Oh, I see they also do mail order - as long as they
    ship in an anonymous kraft paper envelope...

    Alexandre

  8. Alexandre Kampouris said:
    landotter said:

    Absolutely! Just make sure to get JB Weld Feline, it's strawberry
    flavored, so cats won't lick it off while it sets up, but your
    rambunctious four year old will--give new meaning to "it's gonna stay
    like that" when they suck their thumb!

    I just found out the standard sort is available here in Germany:

    http://www.jbweld.de/

    However, the feline variety was strictly verboten by Sondererlass of the
    Bundestierschutzbehörde . Ach so!

    Damn bureaucrats! In Sweden the kitty mad old ladies at the
    Kathudssäkerhetsinstitut got vocal about it as well. They're down to
    attaching cats to Volvos with paste made from rye flour. So much for
    their "quality of life".

  9. landotter said:

    Somebody suggested this threadless bottom bracket in an article a
    while back
    http://gaerlan.com/bikeparts/parts/crank/crank.html
    Look for the "YST" model.

    Sounds like a goot idea, but I'm not sure whether there wouldn't be any
    wiggle left. I'll keep it in mind.

    Alexandre

  10. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Alexandre Kampouris said:
    landotter said:

    Absolutely! Just make sure to get JB Weld Feline, it's strawberry
    flavored, so cats won't lick it off while it sets up, but your
    rambunctious four year old will--give new meaning to "it's gonna stay
    like that" when they suck their thumb!

    I just found out the standard sort is available here in Germany:

    http://www.jbweld.de/

    Strongest adhesive in the USA (?)

    Quoted message said:

    However, the feline variety was strictly verboten by Sondererlass of the
    Bundestierschutzbehörde . Ach so!

    I did set foot a few weeks back in an *car*-accessories outlet to
    purchase a torque wrench so that I could tighten that crank assembly
    according to the instructions. I may have to face the antechrist again
    to get that stuff. Oh, I see they also do mail order - as long as they
    ship in an anonymous kraft paper envelope...

    Let us know if the packaging in Germany has
    testimonials printed on it.

    --
    Michael Press

    Better than baling wire.

  11. Michael Press said:

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    Alexandre Kampouris said:
    landotter said:

    Absolutely! Just make sure to get JB Weld Feline, it's strawberry
    flavored, so cats won't lick it off while it sets up, but your
    rambunctious four year old will--give new meaning to "it's gonna stay
    like that" when they suck their thumb!


    I just found out the standard sort is available here in Germany:

    http://www.jbweld.de/

    Strongest adhesive in the USA (?)

    "Der wahrscheinlich stärkste Kleber der Welt".

    "Probably the strongest glue in the world".

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    However, the feline variety was strictly verboten by Sondererlass of the
    Bundestierschutzbehörde . Ach so!

    I did set foot a few weeks back in an *car*-accessories outlet to
    purchase a torque wrench so that I could tighten that crank assembly
    according to the instructions. I may have to face the antechrist again
    to get that stuff. Oh, I see they also do mail order - as long as they
    ship in an anonymous kraft paper envelope...

    Let us know if the packaging in Germany has
    testimonials printed on it.

    I don't think so. This is what I ordered:
    http://www.das-angebot-der-woche.de/jbweld/frame/01/04.htm

    They have a picture of the back side:
    http://www.das-angebot-der-woche.de/jbweld/imag/adhesiveweldback_gross.jpg

    Since all the instructions are printed on the outer surface, and I don't
    see any room inside for anything but the tubes of glue, I guess they
    don't have them. The Germans would very much rather prefer endorsements
    of the "Stiftung Warentest", something like "Consumer Report".

    Alexandre

  12. Don't see much point in buggering around with complicated solutions.
    If the frame can be saved, a cheap YST threadless bottom bracket will
    do it.. If it can't be saved, helicoils and welding and corrosive
    substances on your hands and whatnot will just waste money. Only thing
    is, you'll have to get a square taper crankset, as this is the only
    way the YST comes, so it isn't as cheap a solution as it seems.

    See
    http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=bbidt8

    HTH.

    Andre Jute
    http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/BICYCLE%20%26%20CYCLING.html

    Alexandre Kampouris said:

    Dear all,

    I've had problems with the bottom bracket of my 2001-vintage touring
    bike for the last couple of years. I'm already considering acquiring a
    new bike, but I wonder whether the old one is absolutely beyond repair.

    Here are some pictures:http://radio-bip.qc.ca/Palier/photos.html

    The original Shimano cartridge-type bearing assembly began to wobble
    about two years ago (pictures 13 and 14). This initial trouble was
    caused by the ball bearing itself.

    I thought it would be a simple matter to replace the faulty part, but I
    was wrong.

    I purchased a replacement cartridge (not cheap, if I remember well), and
    the corresponding crank extractor (pictures 2 and 3), and attempted to
    remove the crank.

    After screwing the tool into the crank (pictures 4-6), I carefully
    started rotating the wrench in order to pull the crank, but to my horror
    I realized that I was actually very carefully stripping out the thread.
    (I think it was more a design flaw than an error of mine).

    I tried in vain to extract the crank using other means, so ended up
    bringing the bike to the shop. The part was replaced, but the mechanic
    told me he cussed a bit during that job.

    The old bearing showed signs of aluminium [a.k.a. aluminum] corrosion
    [pictures 8-13], see the pitting on the ring, in addition to the rust
    desposits from the frame on the threads, or what seem to be left of
    them. I remembered at that point my engineering school lectures and the
    stern warning putting dissimilar metals into contact. But, hey, if there
    are millions of bikes like that out there, why should I worry?

    I had no complaints about the replacement bearing until it conked out
    around Christmas 2007. The threaded fastening cup on the replacement
    Shimano part [which played the same role as the one on picture 9] was
    made of plastic, and now that I thought of it, the mechanic hadn't
    screwed it in entirely, probably because the rust prevented him. Now the
    bearing assembly was resting on only one side, and there was a huge
    amount of play.

    This time I was decide to do it myself. I tried to remove the crank, but
    the thread was still gone from the time before, and no amount of
    cajoling or violence could get the crank unstuck (pictures 15-16). I
    tried heat and WD-40, too.

    I bought a replacement Shimano crank assembly of a different design for
    about 55 EUR, including which seemed of a better design (see pixes
    17-25), and included cranks and sprockets.

    Here's an exploded view:http://radio-bip.qc.ca/Palier/EP1342656.pdf

    Since I had a replacement for everything, I felt I could let loose my
    butcher instincts, and hack away at all that junk which had made a
    pedestrian of me for some weeks (pictures 29-38).

    With the old bearing assembly out of the way, I was finally able to
    inspect the damage (pixes 39-41). I had never before disassembled a
    bottom bracket, so I wasn't sure whether this amount of rust was normal.

    Ah yes, the pictures also explained why the lighting system shorted out
    a few weeks before the trouble with the bearing reoccurred. I had
    attached a new wire on the frame's surface with tie-wraps a few weeks
    earlier.

    After cleaning the socket with a wire brush (#47) and applying some
    rust-remover, I was able to see that many threads were entirely gone
    (pixes 50-51), and the ones which remained were not in very good shape.

    I installed the new assembly (discovering that there was a prescribed
    torque for the screws and cup). The cup on the drive side had very
    little thread to catch, so I put two of the three O-rings on the left
    side. The third one was not necessary for the socket width.

    The result can be seen on pictures 52-54.

    Alas, the repair held only a few weeks. The right cup fell out of its
    thread, but is still held in by the crank, so the bike can be ridden
    [pictures 62-63]. So I'm back to wobbly cranks and front sprockets
    perpetually stuck at the middle setting.

    So what can I do now? Is the thing ruined forever? Is the bike
    dangerous? I can ride around the neighbourhood on that thing, but not
    much more. It's a shame, as I think I maintained this bike generally
    correctly. (Some tell me my problem stemmed from a manufacturing error,
    as the socket should have been drowned in grease. Others tell me I
    should have regularly greased the saddle tube to prevent water from
    seeping in, an idea which I found rather curious in earlier days).

    Another mechanic suggested I drown the thing in two-component epoxy glue
    formulated for metals - that would last me for the remainder of the
    bike's useful life. I found a product in the Uhu catalog, but no
    retailer seems to carry it. I found a putty of the brand "Pattex", but
    the load would quite probably exceed its specified limit, and there is
    the problem of properly filling the gap between the cup and the socket
    with something of the consistency of, well, putty.

    Any ideas? Is there a way to save this bike. BTW, I'm a big, heavy, and
    strong guy.

    Thanks,

    Alexandre
    ps: sorry for the saga-like explanation, I could have started with the
    current situation, but I thought that the full story would better convey
    my current, frustrated, state of mind.

  13. Andre Jute said:

    Don't see much point in buggering around with complicated solutions.
    If the frame can be saved, a cheap YST threadless bottom bracket will
    do it.. If it can't be saved, helicoils and welding and corrosive
    substances on your hands and whatnot will just waste money. Only thing
    is, you'll have to get a square taper crankset, as this is the only
    way the YST comes, so it isn't as cheap a solution as it seems.

    I've sunk already a bit of money in fixing this thing. But sunk costs
    shouldn't be taken into account, as accountants point out...

    OK, Britain is already closer to Berlin than the USA. Now that I come to
    think of it, I have a pair of good Shimano square-tapered cranks and
    sprockets which I saved from an earlier bike. They were replacing the
    original set that broke right in the middle and landed me in hospital in
    the Netherlands, luckily only for X-Rays. (I finally replaced the bike
    when a shop adamantly refused to repair it, showing me its crooked
    frame. Ah, yes, that must have been that collision a long time ago
    against the car with the suddenly opened door. I won, albeit with some
    scratches).

    If I could find a good threadless bracket locally, that would be a very
    good solution. I can still save the super-glue for something else, like
    fixing broken cranks. The newly installed cranks I could also save for
    my next bike...

    I see that this problem was already discussed on German-language forums:
    http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/archive/index.php/t-67015.html

    Here's already one German source for the bracket:
    http://www.produkte24.com/cy/bruegelmann-fahrrad-gmbh-1396/radwelt-2006-2007-5356/seite-373-gross.html

    I couldn't find anything at Brügelmann's, despite the endorsements in
    some of the sites I've seen.

    Thanks,

    Alexandre

  14. Alexandre Kampouris said:

    Here's already one German source for the bracket:
    http://www.produkte24.com/cy/bruegelmann-fahrrad-gmbh-1396/radwelt-2006-2007-5356/seite-373-gross.html

    I couldn't find anything at Brügelmann's, despite the endorsements in
    some of the sites I've seen.

    Oups! That WAS the Brügelmann catalogue...

    Alexandre

  15. I'd suggest two things :

    (a) Get someone to coach you removal of a bottom bracket. You're
    batting 0/2, as far as I can tell.

    (b) Get rid of that shimano proprietary [censored] that is ruining you
    financially and buy a time-tested (50 years) square taper sugino
    crankset, for this you can use a threadless bottom bracket, i.e. :

    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=15195045400&d=single&c=Components&sc=Bottom-Brackets&tc=Cartridge/Taper-Spindle&item_id=YS-BB98868110

    And you won't need functional threads to install, maintain, and remove
    this bottom bracket.

    If you really want to finish off your frameset, go ahead and use pipe
    tape, JB weld, or some other temporary bandaid. All you'll learn is
    how to ruin a perfectly good frameset, once and for all.

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  16. "Donald Gillies" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'd suggest two things :

    (a) Get someone to coach you removal of a bottom bracket. You're
    batting 0/2, as far as I can tell.

    (b) Get rid of that shimano proprietary [censored] that is ruining you
    financially and buy a time-tested (50 years) square taper sugino
    crankset, for this you can use a threadless bottom bracket, i.e. :


    http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=15195045400&d=single&c=Components&sc=Bottom-Brackets&tc=Cartridge/Taper-Spindle&item_id=YS-BB98868110

    Quoted message said:


    And you won't need functional threads to install, maintain, and remove
    this bottom bracket.

    If you really want to finish off your frameset, go ahead and use pipe
    tape, JB weld, or some other temporary bandaid. All you'll learn is
    how to ruin a perfectly good frameset, once and for all.

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

    One more point, stop riding in the surf! ;-)

    As corroded as that bottom bracket looks, I'd suspect that the seat tube,
    down tube and chainstays are just about rusted through too.

    Chas.

  17. * * Chas said:

    One more point, stop riding in the surf! ;-)

    As corroded as that bottom bracket looks, I'd suspect that the seat tube,
    down tube and chainstays are just about rusted through too.

    That's sorta why I was only half joking about the JB Weld. Install the
    BB and build up a good 1/2 cm of epoxy all around the BB so it looks
    like an alien hornet's nest--probably good for another two years! If
    it fails, chip it off and go for Donald's oh-so-practical solution.

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