Hoping for some general help.

On Dec 5, 5:12 pm, Bob Landry <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I have an old Stumpjumper (vintage 1983 or so)

That bike is old enough to have collector value. Unless it's
sentimental, you might be better off Ebaying it and making use of the
profits. Depends on what the market it on the 83 (first year of mass
manufacture for Stumpjumpers I believe)

You could also keep it, and update it. You'd need a six speed
hyperglide freewheel, SIS compatible rear mech, new click shifters,
and new chain. Under a hundred bucks if you do it yourself. Canti and
Vee brakes have different cable pull, so if you wanna go for Vees,
you'll need new levers, which you can find for peanuts.

landotter said:

On Dec 5, 5:12 pm, Bob Landry <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

I have an old Stumpjumper (vintage 1983 or so)

That bike is old enough to have collector value. Unless it's
sentimental, you might be better off Ebaying it and making use of the
profits. Depends on what the market it on the 83 (first year of mass
manufacture for Stumpjumpers I believe)

You could also keep it, and update it. You'd need a six speed
hyperglide freewheel, SIS compatible rear mech, new click shifters,
and new chain. Under a hundred bucks if you do it yourself. Canti and
Vee brakes have different cable pull, so if you wanna go for Vees,
you'll need new levers, which you can find for peanuts.

Thanks for the concise info. It may be a collector, but likely not in
the shape it's in: stickers here and there, and lots of touch-up paint
in the wrong shade of blue. My son rode this bike nearly year round,
using it to commute to college for 5 years. Believe me, this bike is
VERY well-used!

Bob
Just another nice basic flake.
(and old fart in training)

International Pipe-raising Day, Feb. 20th

don't listen to landotter, he's a rascist

On Wed, 05 Dec 2007 16:12:21 -0700, Bob Landry

may have said:

I have an old Stumpjumper (vintage 1983 or so) that I'd like to bring
into the 21st century to whatever degree possible. Hence, the
following questions.

1. The friction shifters on this bike are toast. I have a newer
Schwinn (my wife's, who can no longer ride) with SRAM twist shifters
that I can use. Would I also need to swap over the derailleurs on this
bike in order to use them?

If the existing ders on the Schwinn are SRAM the answer is probably
"yes". If the Shimano ders on the Stumpy are old enough, the answer
is still "yes". I'd swap shifters and ders, assuming that the Schwinn
fder's clamp will fit the Stumpy, and assuming that *you* were going
to ride it. I loathe twistgrips, but that's just me.

Quoted message said:

Would I be better off going with a complete
Shimano system, i.e. click shifters and derailleurs?

I try really hard to avoid twist-grips, in part because too many of
them are designed to make it a right royal pain to replace the cable.
I've had good results from both Shimano and SRAM trigger-style
shifters. If using SRAM aftermarket shifters, you will probably find
it necessary to use SRAM ders, regardless of whether they're
twist-grips.

Quoted message said:

1b. Can I go with at least a 7 speed freewheel without major
modifications to the hub/wheel/axle/dropout spacing?

This depends upon two things. The first is the current dropout
spacing; the second is your degree of willingness to live with
mismatch if the spacing is too narrow. If a 7sp wheel fits, roll it.
If the dropouts are too narrow for a wheel that has a 7sp freewheel,
then there are considerations involved. Many a rider has simply
pulled the dropouts apart, dropped the wheel in, and ridden it that
way for lots of miles without difficulty. This is not the
"recommended" procedure for any respected authority. (Exactly what is
"recommended" is something that varies according to the information
source. Some say "just don't do it."😉 Others prefer to "cold set"
(a fancy way of saying "bend"😉 the rear triangles apart until the
wheel fits properly. A few dedicated and persistent types have
reworked the rim offset and rearranged spacers to make a 7sp freewheel
fit inside a frame sized for less. (This does not always work.) One
important consideration: If you weigh more than about 160 lbs, it's
probably best not to use a 7sp *freewheel* rear wheel. The
newer-style *freehub* has much wider bearing spacing, and is much less
susceptible to both bent and broken rear axles.

Quoted message said:

1c. Would it make more sense to just buy a new(er) rear wheel?

In my opinion, yes.

Quoted message said:

2. I'd like to lose the Shimano cantilevers and replace them with V
brakes. Will the newer brakes have enough reach to use on the older
fork/seat stay bosses?

Yes, but the cable pull ratios of the hand levers must match the
requirements of the brake setup. Canti brake levers will not work
properly with V-brakes, nor vice-versa. If the Schwinn has V-brakes
and acceptable levers, use the whole setup. Otherwise, either get
brake levers or brake-and-shifter pods that are V-brake compatible, or
use a widget called a Travel Agent to make the mismatched components
perform correctly together.

Quoted message said:

2b. Do I need additional hardware to use V brakes on the older frame?
As in, new levers, cable hanger(s), etc?

Maybe. See above for part of the issues. In addition, there may not
be stops in the right places to make the cables work correctly; the
simplest way around this is to do away with the stops and run the
cable housing all the way from the lever to the noodle. The Schwinn's
front der may have the wrong cable routing as well.

Quoted message said:

3. I also want to get rid of the old bull-moose integrated bar and
stem. Will a new bar and stem combo work with the original threaded
headset?

The selection of quill stems available is not as large as it used to
be; consult your local bike shop. The Stumpy and the Schwinn are
probably not going to have compatible stuff in this area. You
probably can get a quill stem that will accept the Schwinn's bar.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 16:38:03 -0800 (PST), datakoll <[email hidden]>

may have said:

don't listen to landotter, he's a rascist

And what does his love of competitive cycling have to do with it?

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

I don't know. I advocated genocide and he took offense.

Bob Landry said:

I have an old Stumpjumper (vintage 1983 or so) that I'd like to bring
into the 21st century to whatever degree possible. Hence, the
following questions.

1. The friction shifters on this bike are toast. I have a newer
Schwinn (my wife's, who can no longer ride) with SRAM twist shifters
that I can use. Would I also need to swap over the derailleurs on this
bike in order to use them? Would I be better off going with a complete
Shimano system, i.e. click shifters and derailleurs?

Shimano stuff would work. Or you could use SRAM click or twist
shifter and derailleurs.

Quoted message said:

1b. Can I go with at least a 7 speed freewheel without major
modifications to the hub/wheel/axle/dropout spacing?

Your bike is spaced for a 126mm rear hub. New rear hubs are 135mm.
That's enough to require "cold setting", or bending, the rear end to a
new wider size. But it's no big deal.

Quoted message said:

1c. Would it make more sense to just buy a new(er) rear wheel?

Yes and no. A new 7-speed hub would be a cassette hub, which is
stronger and more reliable than a freewheel hub. On the other hand,
freewheel hubs worked fine for most of us most of the time. Respacing
the hub you have to 135mm and fitting a 7-speed freewheel would work
fine.

Quoted message said:

2. I'd like to lose the Shimano cantilevers and replace them with V
brakes. Will the newer brakes have enough reach to use on the older
fork/seat stay bosses?

Yes, but you'll need V-brake compatible levers. Avid Speed-Dial, Dia-
Compe PC-7 EXA, and Shimano Deore are all good levers. Use brake arms
without an articulated mechanism for best results.

Quoted message said:

2b. Do I need additional hardware to use V brakes on the older frame?

No. Just the brakes,compatible levers, cable, and housings.

Quoted message said:

3. I also want to get rid of the old bull-moose integrated bar and
stem. Will a new bar and stem combo work with the original threaded
headset?

How come? Do you want to change the riding position, or do you just
not like them? Bull moose bars are particularly badass from a
structural and aesthetic standpoint.

Chalo

Bob Landry said:

I have an old Stumpjumper (vintage 1983 or so) that I'd like to bring
into the 21st century to whatever degree possible.

P.S. Monsieur landotter's right-- the bike is worth more as a
collectible (stickers, love bites and all) than it is as a beater.

Chalo

Chalo said:

Bob Landry said:

I have an old Stumpjumper (vintage 1983 or so) that I'd like to bring
into the 21st century to whatever degree possible.

P.S. Monsieur landotter's right-- the bike is worth more as a
collectible (stickers, love bites and all) than it is as a beater.

Chalo

worth moor? is this Gurney's Targa Cobra? can you sell the bike and
retire to Kearny?
$15 for a rear deray, $75 new seat, new Kool brake pads, new cables/
housings and kevlar belted tires will make you smile.