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Coker Cranks

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
29 October 2006
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13 October 2007
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vivalargo
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  1. Have been fiddling with a little (very little) Coker Muniing but I bent
    the cheap-ass cranks. I have an Airfoil rim but the standard cheapo
    cotterless hub. Where might I find some stronger 175mm cranks that
    would fit this set up?

    JL

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  2. markf said:

    odessy black widows rae pretty beefy for square tapers. probably the
    best left now that kookas aren't made anymore.

    You still can find the odd set of Kookas on e-bay as well.

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  3. When I first started "cokering" I used the standard 152mm cranks, but
    quickly went to 127s. Those seemed like a great all-around size. Then I
    tried 102's and although I found them to be much easier to get used to
    than expected, climbing was a tougher proposition

    Well, I finally ordered a pair of Quax 114mm cranks w/zero Q-factor and
    so far they seem to be the ideal length for long distance, with less
    leg fatigue and crotch pain over the long haul.

    I can even climb almost as easily as with my 127's. I know everyone's
    different, and a lot depends on your height, inseam, weight, form, etc.
    I'll keep the 152's for "Coker MUni", but the 114's will be my everyday
    distance crank.😄

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  4. I recently got a coker, though I have only ridden it once, the 110mm
    cranks on it seem like a death trap. I can't come to a stop in less
    than 30-40ft. I do have some 150mm cranks I can put on it, are these
    too long for long coker rides? Is speed inhibited with longer cranks?
    Does the larger circle of the pedal make it more tiring? Can someone
    list good crank lengths for certain types of distance riding?

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  5. vivalargo said:

    Have been fiddling with a little (very little) Coker Muniing but I bent
    the cheap-ass cranks. I have an Airfoil rim but the standard cheapo
    cotterless hub. Where might I find some stronger 175mm cranks that
    would fit this set up?

    JL

    Are you sure you want stronger cranks on that Coker? Now the cheap
    cranks need replacing which costs next to nothing and are easy to
    replace. If you put some strong uberlong cranks on there to do MUni,
    you might destroy the cheapo hub. A lot more trouble then! You might
    say it was "little (very little)" Muniing, but then again it was enough
    to bend cranks.

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  6. Evan Byrne said:

    I recently got a coker, though I have only ridden it once, the 110mm
    cranks on it seem like a death trap. I can't come to a stop in less
    than 30-40ft. I do have some 150mm cranks I can put on it, are these
    too long for long coker rides? Is speed inhibited with longer cranks?
    Does the larger circle of the pedal make it more tiring? Can someone
    list good crank lengths for certain types of distance riding?

    the 150's are nice to start with, and gradually get shorter cranks as
    you get more comfortable...127's are a nice all around road crank,
    114's offer a more comfortable distance ride to the experienced cokeur

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  7. markf said:

    odessy black widows rae pretty beefy for square tapers. probably the
    best left now that kookas aren't made anymore.

    Before I got my tri-tapped Kookas, the Black Widows are what I used for
    my 175s. This is an old thread...JL you should PM me if still in the
    market, as I'm not using those anymore.

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  8. tomblackwood said:

    Before I got my tri-tapped Kookas, the Black Widows are what I used for
    my 175s. This is an old thread...JL you should PM me if still in the
    market, as I'm not using those anymore.

    I was with John L when he bent his BW 175 cranks on a smallish
    drop..."Bent like taffy" as he said, even though they're aluminum,
    which usually brreaks before it bends that much.

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  9. I went to a machinist today and he's going to make me some custom 35mm
    aluminum cranks. It should be fun trying them, but I think they might
    be a bit more difficult to climb. Once installed, i plan to find the
    steepest hill around and bomb it as fast as I can! I should be able to
    hit at least 15-17 mph. 😉

    --
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  10. You wont be able to climb a 1 degree incline with those. 15-17 mph? Most
    people can do that on 125s. I have seen your bc wheel skills, this wont
    go over well.

    MuniAddict said:

    I went to a machinist today and he's going to make me some custom 35mm
    aluminum cranks. It should be fun trying them, but I think they might
    be a bit more difficult to climb. Once installed, i plan to find the
    steepest hill around and bomb it as fast as I can! I should be able to
    hit at least 15-17 mph. 😉

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  11. Evan Byrne said:

    You wont be able to climb a 1 degree incline with those. 15-17 mph? Most
    people can do that on 125s. I have seen your bc wheel skills, this wont
    go over well.

    I take it you didn't see the 😉 at the end? I think my coker skills are
    pretty good having also done "trials" jumps and gaps, various mounts
    including "kickup" and also Coker Muni. I'm quite comfortable with
    102's, 114's and 127's. With the 114's I can hit 17-18 mph without too
    much trouble and climb quite easily.

    It comes with experience and of course leg strengh and conditioning. I
    read your earlier post about the problems you had with 110's on your
    new coker; You should probably learn wit 152's and once you are
    comfortable then you can go shorter. As far as BC goes, I lost interest
    in that not long after I bought your plates; not because I didn't like
    the plates, I just never put any serious time into riding it.

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  12. Hmm, well out of all your ideas, I rank custom made 35mm cranks on a
    coker, rather high on the Stupid-Meter. Being able to hop from cinder
    block to cinder block on a coker will give you no less of a chance at
    dying when you hop on that deathtrap 35mm cranked coker.

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  13. Evan Byrne said:

    Hmm, well out of all your ideas, I rank custom made 35mm cranks on a
    coker, rather high on the Stupid-Meter. Being able to hop from cinder
    block to cinder block on a coker will give you no less of a chance at
    dying when you hop on that deathtrap 35mm cranked coker.

    You're right, I think maybe I'll go for 25mm cranks instead! :p
    Whoa!...thanks evan, that would make a great title for my next film
    coming to a theatre near you: -*"Deathtrap: '35mm cranked coker"
    *-(Sigged!)

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  14. Brian MacKenzie used 40mm cranks on a coker once, he had little or no
    control over the speed, and the ballance was very much like on a bc
    wheel.

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  15. Evan Byrne said:

    Brian MacKenzie used 40mm cranks on a coker once, he had little or no
    control over the speed, and the ballance was very much like on a bc
    wheel.

    agreed

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  16. Evan Byrne said:

    Brian MacKenzie used 40mm cranks on a coker once, he had little or no
    control over the speed, and the ballance was very much like on a bc
    wheel.

    Maybe I'll try jumping over a tennis net...nah, that would really be
    stupid!🙄

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  17. Not as stupid as a airhorn on a unicycle!!!!!!

    You're 50 for gods sake

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  18. Evan Byrne said:

    Not as stupid as a airhorn on a unicycle!!!!!!e

    Everybody loves that...except maybe those that are in my direct
    path!:eek:

    I ride my -rockin' Rad Radial- Deluxe at least 10 miles per day, so it
    comes in quite handy. Sure beats constantly yelling "On your left!", or
    "Comin' through!"

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  19. On a side note, Did your tire ever pop off your airfoil rim? Im trying
    to find out if mine is one of those that blows up. I heard look for a X
    etched into the rim around the seam, how big is this X, do all the bad
    ones have it?

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  20. Evan Byrne said:

    On a side note, Did your tire ever pop off your airfoil rim? Im trying
    to find out if mine is one of those that blows up. I heard look for a X
    etched into the rim around the seam, how big is this X, do all the bad
    ones have it?

    Fortunately I've had no problems and consitently run 40 psi. It sat in
    the back of my SUV when temps inside probably topped 100 degrees F, and
    still not a problem.

    I could never find any indication or "X" anywhere on the rim, so maybe
    I got a newer one. But UDC claimed that the previous rim/TA tire
    "pop-off" problem was caused from a defective batch of tubes. They now
    use coker tubes exclusively.

    --
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