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cyclops/saris hub damage with 10sp Shimano cassettes

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
10 May 2007
Last activity
14 May 2007
Original author
Bleve
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  1. Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/

    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.

    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.

    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.

  2. Bleve said:


    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    + FSA RD-400 hub body to the list... Junk wheels that have rim cracks on every drive side spoke. But according to a LBS, I've hit a pot hole (or 50) that has caused this damage so I have to wear it. I guess parallel importing means its harder for THEM to process a valid warranty claim. (now everyone knows the LBS I'm talking about)

    Arh well, after last Saturday they're going in the bin anyways.

  3. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Bleve said:

    It has KHK stamped on it.

    Ouch! Have you looked at <http://www.khkgears.co.jp/en/> at all?
    Assuming that's who made it, their catalog suggests it's a custom job.

    --
    Shane Stanley

  4. Bleve said:

    Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/

    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.

    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.

    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.

    That looks bad. One thing occurs to me. What's the story with the
    "missing" teeth on the inside of the cassette rings? Out of the 9
    grooves on the free hub there seems to only be 6 "teeth" on the
    inside of the cassette rings. See, for example, DSCF3826.JPG.

    This would have the effect of loading up the slots that have teeth
    more than if there was a tooth for each slot. Clearly 6 isn't
    enough as the denting continues after the initial displacement
    (which would then have contact on all 6 surfaces). Is the cassette
    a shimano cassette?

    I'm going to check my campy cassettes when I get home but I'm pretty
    sure there's a tooth for each slot.

    DeF.

    --
    e-mail: d.farrow@your finger.murdoch.edu.au
    To reply, you'll have to remove your finger.

  5. "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/

    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.

    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.

    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.

    I've seen this sort of damage before and the thing that always strikes me is
    that the cogs only seem to bear on about 40% of the hub given that they
    carve slots with big gaps between them. Surely it'd be a better thing al
    around if they bore on as much surface area as possible?

  6. Bleve said:

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/
    If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.

    Maybe you're too strong....
    --
    JT
    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visit http://www.jt10000.com
    ****************************

  7. Resound said:

    "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).

    Quoted message said:

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/

    Quoted message said:

    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.

    Quoted message said:

    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    Quoted message said:

    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.

    Quoted message said:

    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.

    I've seen this sort of damage before and the thing that always strikes me is
    that the cogs only seem to bear on about 40% of the hub given that they
    carve slots with big gaps between them. Surely it'd be a better thing al
    around if they bore on as much surface area as possible?

    pressure = force/area, so yes. The difference with the d-a alloy hub
    is that the splines are about 100% deeper, so there's more area, thus
    half the pressure for the same force. We're using the hub for a
    reasonable amount of high power stuff, peaking at around 1450 watts or
    so, so it's under a fair load.
    And yes, the cassette is Shimano. Ultegra 10sp (as stated in the
    original post)

  8. Bleve said:

    Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/

    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.

    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.

    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.


    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

  9. jim beam said:
    Bleve said:

    Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).

    Quoted message said:

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/

    Quoted message said:

    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.

    Quoted message said:

    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    Quoted message said:

    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.

    Quoted message said:

    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

    When Shimano start making power meters. Until then, I need to either
    get Saris to do the right thing, or find an alternate freehub that
    will work with that hub.

  10. Bleve said:

    Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/

    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.

    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.

    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.

    Only comment is the Dura Ace aluminum hub body you show looks very
    similar to my Campagnolo 1999 onwards Record hubs. Deep aluminum
    grooves. I only use the Campagnolo loose cog cassettes, Veloce or
    Mirage, 9 or 10 speed, and they do not cut into the freehub body
    enough to cause any damage.

    On the expensive Campagnolo cassettes, the biggest 6 or 7 of 10 cogs
    are on aluminum carriers. I think this is how the Dura Ace 10 speed
    cassettes might be too. So to minimize the potentail of grooving the
    hub body, you could try this.

    I was thinking about the PowerTap SL hub for Campagnolo cassettes.
    Just dreaming mainly. But with your experiences, I don't think I want
    to try one.

  11. "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/

    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.

    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.

    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.

    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.

    That freehub looks the same at the Velocity hubs use. Of course, there are
    probably a dozen other Taiwan hubs that use the same piece. I have seen the
    cogs dig into the freehub before. There seems to be 2 factors that played
    into that problem. First, separate cogs as opposed to a joined solid unit.
    Second, the lockring was not tight enough.

    No matter what, there is both a design and metallurgy problem occurring in
    these freehubs. We usually keep a few spares around, just for ourselves.

    As a side note, there is a real problem with the pawl springs on these
    freehubs. They wear out rather quickly. Last weekend, one went on my wife's
    Nuvian hub (Velocity). Here is a not so terrific, but effective fix: I
    fabricated a new spring by unwinding and reshaping a coiled quick release
    spring. I used two pliers to reshape the spring into what was needed. She
    just took off for a ride and the freehub appeared to run normally. Let's see
    if I catch hell later...

    It has to work, we are riding downtown on Sunday to watch the race and then
    to a brunch.

    Having a freehub failure on Mother's Day is unthinkable ! LoL

    In case anyone wants to know, there are two industrial bearings, separated
    by a spacer tube inside these freehubs. I had to change them on a similar
    unit a little while ago.

    These freehub mechanisms are usually loaded with a green grease. I generally
    change it out in favor of a light #1, #0 or even a synthetic oil. I believe
    Peter has commented on using an oil many times. I definitely feel that is
    the correct thing in a Shimano design. But in the Taiwan or Campy units, a
    very light grease may stay in place better.

    Bruce

  12. Are there some cassettes where all the cogs are bolted together that
    the OP can use? I believe SRAM cassettes are like this.
    That would distribute the pressure over a larger area.
    --
    JT
    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visit http://www.jt10000.com
    ****************************

  13. John Forrest Tomlinson said:

    Are there some cassettes where all the cogs are bolted together that
    the OP can use? I believe SRAM cassettes are like this.
    That would distribute the pressure over a larger area.
    --
    JT
    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visit jt10000.comjt10000.com
    ****************************


    Token made a single piece 10speed in 06, machined from a solid lump of alloy with Ti and other exotica. (aimed at pros I was told). It isnt in their 07 product list so the price must have forced them to drop it. I have held one in my hand so they did exist. They now make two piece cassettes across a range of 9/10 speeds
    see : tokenproducts.comproducts.php

  14. Bleve said:
    jim beam said:
    Bleve said:

    Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    cassette (Ultegra).
    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/
    The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    badly damaged.
    This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    others.
    Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    eliminate the problem.
    The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    chainwhips and a chisel.


    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

    When Shimano start making power meters. Until then, I need to either
    get Saris to do the right thing, or find an alternate freehub that
    will work with that hub.

    unfortunate but true. publicity and nagging often have that the desired
    effect. clearly their current product quality is unacceptable.

  15. jim beam said:
    Bleve said:
    jim beam said:

    Bleve wrote:
    > Here's what happens to the current Powertap SL 2.4 (RRP in Australia
    > of ~$2,700) hub after 1,500km of normal use with a 10sp Shimano
    > cassette (Ultegra).
    > http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/
    > The photoset also has a comparison with a Dura-Ace Al alloy freehub
    > (the silver one that fits properly ...).
    > The Saris/Cyclops freehub is a bronze colour, and is clearly quite
    > badly damaged.
    > This is the same damage that occurs with any Al alloy freehub body
    > that's not designed to mate properly with Shimano 10sp. Bontrager
    > freehubs have the same problem, as do Easton/Velomax and I'm sure many
    > others.
    > Interestingly, American Classic realised the problem quite a while ago
    > and released some radial shims to fir their freehub bodies to reduce/
    > eliminate the problem.
    > The hub's being sent back to Saris with a 'please explain' (as well as
    > problems with intermittent data loss ... but that's another story!),
    > but I'm wondering, does anyone here recognise the freehub body from
    > some other hub manufacturer, and knows if a steel (or a properly
    > designed Al alloy ...) freehub could be swapped in? It has KHK stamped
    > on it. If Saris/Cyclops won't redesign the part, I'd like to fit a
    > steel freehub body so I can easily swap cassettes without needing two
    > chainwhips and a chisel.
    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

    When Shimano start making power meters. Until then, I need to either
    get Saris to do the right thing, or find an alternate freehub that
    will work with that hub.

    unfortunate but true. publicity and nagging often have that the desired
    effect. clearly their current product quality is unacceptable.

    to add to that, you might try the campy cassette/freehub solution.
    they're deep spline and campy cassettes/hubs can be used on otherwise
    shimano systems very successfully.

  16. Quoted message said:

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

    Or don't and suffer the consequences... er, except that you won't. Truth is,
    it's virtually unknown to have someone actually have their cassette cogs
    spin on the mechanism because they've dug in as shown in the photos (and, by
    the way, my own cassette body looks a lot worse than what's shown in the
    photos).

    The only real downside, apart from creating a whole lot of fear, uncertainty
    & doubt, is that it makes it more difficult to remove the cogs from the
    cassette mechanism, since they've rotated beyond their grooves a bit.
    Easiest way to deal with it is to use a chain whip and simply rotate them
    back in the other direction a bit. I don't want to admit how long it was
    before I thought about doing something so simple & obvious...

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

  17. Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    Quoted message said:

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

    Or don't and suffer the consequences... er, except that you won't. Truth is,
    it's virtually unknown to have someone actually have their cassette cogs
    spin on the mechanism because they've dug in as shown in the photos (and, by
    the way, my own cassette body looks a lot worse than what's shown in the
    photos).

    The only real downside, apart from creating a whole lot of fear, uncertainty
    & doubt, is that it makes it more difficult to remove the cogs from the
    cassette mechanism, since they've rotated beyond their grooves a bit.
    Easiest way to deal with it is to use a chain whip and simply rotate them
    back in the other direction a bit. I don't want to admit how long it was
    before I thought about doing something so simple & obvious...

    That's what we've done, and sometimes that's been enough force, and
    sometimes not, sometimes we needed a hammer to get enough force to
    pull them out. Not pretty. They *should* slide right off as soon as
    the locking ring is undone. That's how the genuine Shimano stuff
    works.

    The reason I care, is because I hire the hub out to riders I coach,
    and we swap cassettes all the time to do this. If it was just me
    using it, it wouldn't be a drama, just a sad reflection of the
    laziness/incompetence/stinginess of the hub designers who can't be
    bothered making a part that is designed to work properly.

    The sad thing is, it's not that hard to do it right. Shimano have,
    with their 10sp d-a Al alloy freehub, campy do it right, why can't
    Saris, Bontrager, Easton etc? All they have to do is copy the d-a
    one, or do something like American Classic did with their radial
    shims. These parts *should* work properly, the sprockets should not
    dig in to the freehub like this.

    If it's too hard to do it in Al alloy, then they should at least give
    me the option of a steel freehub, I don't care if it's 15-20 grams
    heavier, I want the thing to work properly.

    It's in the post now, going back to Trek Aust (the Oz distributor),
    we'll see what happens.

  18. Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

    Or don't and suffer the consequences... er, except that you won't. Truth is,
    it's virtually unknown to have someone actually have their cassette cogs
    spin on the mechanism because they've dug in as shown in the photos (and, by
    the way, my own cassette body looks a lot worse than what's shown in the
    photos).

    sorry mike, but when i pay serious bucks for a boutique hub, i want the
    thing to work. without being damaged through some moron's
    non-engineering oversight. it's not like this is hard to get right.

    Quoted message said:


    The only real downside, apart from creating a whole lot of fear, uncertainty
    & doubt, is that it makes it more difficult to remove the cogs from the
    cassette mechanism, since they've rotated beyond their grooves a bit.
    Easiest way to deal with it is to use a chain whip and simply rotate them
    back in the other direction a bit. I don't want to admit how long it was
    before I thought about doing something so simple & obvious...

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

  19. On May 10, 5:27 pm, John Forrest Tomlinson <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    Are there some cassettes where all the cogs are bolted together that
    the OP can use? I believe SRAM cassettes are like this.
    That would distribute the pressure over a larger area.
    --
    JT
    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visithttp://www.jt10000.com
    ****************************

    With Campagnolo cassettes, on Record and Chorus cassettes starting
    with 12 or 13 cogs, the biggest 6 cogs are paired on aluminum
    carriers. So you get 4 individual cogs and 3 pairs of cogs to make up
    your 10 cog cassette. For 11 tooth starting cassettes with Record and
    Chorus the biggest 4 cogs are paired and the smallest 6 cogs are
    individual. So you get 6 individual cogs and two pairs of cogs.

    With Centaur the biggest two cogs are paired and the smallest 8 are
    individual cogs for all cassettes starting with 11, 12, or 13 tooth.

    IRD puts the four largest cogs on a carrier and the six smallest are
    loose cogs on their Elite model. All loose cogs on their Comp model.

    In the application here, I doubt any of these cassettes would fix the
    problem since the pictures show the damage to the freehub body
    occurring where the small cogs sit. And no one puts the smallest cogs
    onto carriers to spread the load.

  20. Quoted message said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

    Or don't and suffer the consequences... er, except that you won't. Truth
    is, it's virtually unknown to have someone actually have their cassette
    cogs spin on the mechanism because they've dug in as shown in the photos
    (and, by the way, my own cassette body looks a lot worse than what's
    shown in the photos).

    sorry mike, but when i pay serious bucks for a boutique hub, i want the
    thing to work. without being damaged through some moron's non-engineering
    oversight. it's not like this is hard to get right.

    This reminds me of threads about how seriously-deficient Octalink & Isis
    splines are. Lots of talk about how bad a design, but no evidence of greater
    failure than something "better."

    Yes, it would be convenient if you didn't have to rotate cogs backward to
    extract them because they dug into the hub. But I don't see it as impeding
    the function of the bike, or in fact as anything more than a minor
    annoyance.

    I would much rather see people spend less time worrying about cassette
    splines and crank arm attchments and more time on coming up with a chain
    that doesn't require lubrication (and yet is efficient, quiet &
    lightweight). Oh, and while we're at it, how about tires that are supple,
    low rolling resistance, long life and have greater puncture resistance.
    Improvements in those areas would make for, in my opinion, huge leaps in
    participation and enjoyment of cycling.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    http://www.aboc.com.au/images/galleries/20070509-saris-hub/DSCF3807.html
    happens all the time with "boutique" shimano-copy hubs. shimano know
    this - that's why their free hub bodies are either steel, ti, or deep
    spline aluminum. embarrassingly basic error if you ask me.

    stick to shimano or mavic or someone that knows how to make a proper
    [steel or ti or deep spline aluminum] freehub body.

    Or don't and suffer the consequences... er, except that you won't. Truth
    is, it's virtually unknown to have someone actually have their cassette
    cogs spin on the mechanism because they've dug in as shown in the photos
    (and, by the way, my own cassette body looks a lot worse than what's
    shown in the photos).

    sorry mike, but when i pay serious bucks for a boutique hub, i want the
    thing to work. without being damaged through some moron's non-engineering
    oversight. it's not like this is hard to get right.

    Quoted message said:


    The only real downside, apart from creating a whole lot of fear,
    uncertainty & doubt, is that it makes it more difficult to remove the
    cogs from the cassette mechanism, since they've rotated beyond their
    grooves a bit. Easiest way to deal with it is to use a chain whip and
    simply rotate them back in the other direction a bit. I don't want to
    admit how long it was before I thought about doing something so simple &
    obvious...

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

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