So I've managed a couple of 100k half-day rides, and wondered if I was
up to touring. And there was a three-day weekend coming up .. I
thought I could do a practice run to try out my legs and the kit I'd
accumulated and maybe something more challenging later in the year.
Will start out at 100k per day but shrink the route if it's too far.
Packing was a bit experimental - only one set of panniers and a mixture
of light and heavy gear came to about 15kg. The weather was looking
dodgy so a last-minute change ditched a pair of trainers in favour
of waterproof trousers, and a T-shirt for a longsleeved cycle jacket.
I had to wait for a delivery man on Saturday, so finally got away at
12:30, and took the A422 and A428 from Bedford to St. Neots, then
almost to Cambridge. There's a quieter back route but the traffic
wasn't too bad and I was aware that I didn't have a full day to spare
for the longer, hillier roads. I cut across to Cottenham & stopped for
a pie at Streatham. Feet seem to have gone numb. Removed shoes while I
had lunch, put them back a bit slacker. Up a little of the A10 to
Ely. Passed a tired-looking bloke on a road bike and then discovered
he was on my wheel at the Ely roundabout .. I don't think anyone's
bothered to draft me before :-).
Off the main roads now and across the fens to Prickwillow and
Lakenheath, getting slower all the time. Shoulders aching. There are a
couple of campsites west of Thetford and several east .. I hoped I
wouldn't have to cross the forest as it was well gone 5pm already and
I think some wouldn't take campers past 6, or might even be full of
Bank Holidayers.
Dragged my way up to the site north of Feltwell, right on the edge of
the forest and was pleased (aka desperately relieved) to find it still
existed, and was open. A lady in the house apologised for the lack of
facilities but the quiet setting amongst the trees was fine for
me. Plenty of unoccupied caravans laid up there, and no more than half
a dozen occupied - and I don't think I saw more than 4 people. The
old couple in the caravan next to me warned me they'd got flu then
offered tea & biscuits. I haven't gone down with it yet :-).
Facilities were indeed very limited : cold water and toilets, no
shower. Cooked some sausages then cycled up to the pub at Methwold for
a drink. The bike's a different animal with the panniers off ! Passed
a chip shop and had to ignore the pub menu. 62 miles.
A dry night, quiet but for the owls and some engines across the fields
at RAF Feltwell. Breakfast a bit poor - the gas was low and only just
managed a cup of tea. Forgotten to stop for margarine so just a taste
of sweetened condensed milk on the bread. Out at 8:30 heading for
Swaffham where a cafe did a decent breakfast. Looked out for famous
lady riders on (in?) recumbents but none seen. Leaving Swaffham,
someone flashed and hooted .. I took them for the loony tendency until
a few minutes later when I realised the road led only onto the A47.
Back to Swaffham. Landscape considerably more undulating than usually
claimed for Norfolk.
On to Castle Acre. I'd have liked to hit the coast at Wells, but
approaching Fakenham progress was slow so I decided to make it an
easier day. Cut across through Docking and had a pork pie and ginger
beer for late lunch at Ringstead, then to the coast at
Holme-next-the-sea. Around Hunstanton, stopped to ogle Fat Birds Don't
Fly (a bike shop) and got some gas and bread at a holiday camp shop.
On to Heacham on the A149, far too much heavy holiday traffic - I
couldn't get a long enough gap in the traffic to make a slow hill
start, so pushed the bike up the hill instead. On to Snettisham which
I hoped would be a bit less busy than the Hunstanton sites. In fact it
has several huge caravan sites, no sign of any tents. To the beach
where a car park attendant told me one of the sites took tents.
Despite lots of family caravans this one (Diglea) was actually really
pleasant - and the shower was well worth the extra fiver over last
night ! Tightened wobbly saddle. Still quite early so cycled down to
the beach and couldn't resist a bag of chips from an adjacent
site. Too tired to walk along the sand in cycling shoes, back to the
site where I cooked a bag of Beanfeast and sat under the trees to
read. 53 miles.
It rained lightly in the night and still, occasionally, in the
morning. Packed the tent up damp and got moving by 8:30. Discovered
I'd tightened the saddle at the wrong angle. Wondered if it had moved
on the rails. Resisted the urge to stop for breakfast at a roadside
stall but did have a look at the Sandringham campsite. Very luxurious,
plenty of space, think I might stop there for some walking
sometime. Had an ice cream from the shop. Weather brightening, really
a nice morning now.
Followed NCN1 towards Kings Lynn, OK to Castle Rising but increasingly
tortuous through the housing around North Wootton. Eventually gave up
trying to find the signs and followed the road into the centre, only
to be confused by the one-way system, which is intended for people who
don't mind making multiple circuits of the town before leaving.
Finally found a western exit and headed out toward Saddlebow, which
turned out to be NCN1 again. Shoulders tiring quickly. The rain
started as I left Kings Lynn and made the journey increasingly
miserable. Wet, windy and dark enough to wear me out but not enough to
put waterproofs on. Promised myself a pub lunch at March. Gave in to
the rain and put a coat on at Stowbridge, but really struggling by the
time I was getting near Outwell. Shoulders very painful unless right
down on the drops or up in the maiden aunt position. A brief stop and
a gulp of sweetened condensed milk brightened up the next couple of
miles, then a longer stop at Outwell, a mars bar and a brighter sky
and I sped up again. But once out of the town it quickly darkened and
I could see rainstorms moving across the fens and windmills turning,
facing the same way as I was.
The rain started in earnest but I'd seen why it was so patchy now and
hid in a bush until the storm had passed. Carried on when the bushy
drips were worse than the remaining rain, and pushed on towards
Chatteris rather than diverting to March. Stopped for that long
awaited chilli, rice and Elgood's at Doddington. The sun came out
while I waited and I had a coffee (only 50p!) and carried, trousers
now dried. Realised the saddlebag tie wasn't as close to the seatpost
as normal and moved the saddle forward. Much more comfortable.
I hadn't got maps for this area (I was expecting to come back the way
I'd gone) so couldn't see the minor roads, The A141 was unpleasant
with spray, lorries, caravans, 4x4s but I had to follow it all the way
to Warboys and Huntingdon. A couple of caravans and a lorry passed far
too close and I realised I was riding close to the kerb. Moved out
somewhat. Cars crossed the white line to avoid me. In Warboys, some
teenagers shouted something from their Nova. I wonder if it was
witty. Do they realise their targets can't hear them ?
On home territory now, and with the sun shining, it was becoming a
pleasant afternoon. Into Godmanchester and up an unpleasantly steep
hill to Offord Cluny. A long wait for several trains to pass the
crossing, then Buckden and another short rest. Should be home in an
hour or so. Hills are getting a bit hard. Shoulders aching again, not
as bad as the morning.
Across the A1 and suddenly the wind's strong in my face and I can
coast only on the steepest downhill sections. Past Grafham Water going
very slowly. Far too many hills and valleys, I've had enough - if it
wasn't my last day I'd have stopped by now. Pushed the bike up three
of the hills but the wind takes all the momentum away and the downhill
speed is wasted. The wind finally dropped and I went down Cleat Hill
at satisfying speed. Pannier balance has improved noticeably over the
three days. Staggered into Bedford 2 hours from Buckden, just before
the rain started to pour down again. 84 miles :-(.
200 miles, and no unclipping damage ! Result !
Lessons learnt:
Cars really do give you more room if you keep well out. Make
them cross the line, and they'll think about you. A hundred
wide berths is worth one impatient hoot.
A meter from the kerb is where the lorries have flattened the tarmac,
but also where the rain likes to run down hills.
Those horrible caravan parks with kids everywhere can be better than
they look. A hot shower easily compensates for a disco if it isn't
too close.
A thick Highland self-inflating mattress takes up way too much space
in a pannier for minimal extra comfort, but that pannier was still
lighter than the other one. Replacement must be smaller, but lighter
would be a bonus.
A thermarest 'chair' is worth a good deal more than its weight,
especially if you're cooking at ground level. Make sure the
replacement mattress works with it!
Riding with a reasonably small pannier load on relatively light hills
is a little more tiring than without, but mostly just takes longer.
Cheap bottle-shaped gas cylinders work just as well as the expensive
domed ones, but need to be kept upright or they flare (my stove has
a hose to the bottle, otherwise this wouldn't be an issue).
It's cheap to cook for yourself but only if you carry lots of food,
and you have to keep buying odd bits & gas. While looking enviously at
the pubs and cafes.
Cruising downhill makes up for fighting uphill, but wind and rain on
the fens are no fun at all.
Supplex trousers dry really quickly in a pub.
Waterproof trousers are only any good if they're worth the
bother of putting them on. Only the front of your trousers get
wet .. someone must make gaiters / leggings that have a gap
at the back for easy fitting yet cover your shoes ?