Complete NOOB needs some advice.

Firstly, I'm guessing you've grown a bit since you were 13. Does it still fit you?

xxamr_corpxx said:

Firstly, I'm guessing you've grown a bit since you were 13. Does it still fit you?

How would I know if it still fits? I'm telling you I'm a complete noob. The tires are 26 x 1.5

I'm now 5'8", I feel like I know abosolutly nothing AND I DON"T LIKE IT!

Congrats on your choice to get into shape and to do it on a bicycle.

Let's first talk about the most fundamental point in bike fit; leg extension. Without getting overly technical your knee should have a slight bend when the pedal is at the six-o-clock position and you are seated. If you can achieve this without raising the seatpost past the safety mark then you may be able to use the bike to get started back into cycling. Check this out and reply. If this works out then we will discuss further the things you can do to make the bike work best.

Good luck...

Hi vbgagnon, Xsmoker is correct, that test will tell you if the bike is too small for you. The saddle may seem way too high initially, you will have to use tip-toe to reach the ground. If that feels too wierd, set the seat lower initially, and go up a half inch at a time every month or so until you are closer to the ideal leg extension.

As the seat goes higher it goes backwards too, so you have to lean further to reach the handlebars - experiment with all the adjustments - the saddle can go forwards and back along with tilting up and down, the handlebars can adjust up and down and pivot forwards and back, the brake and gear levers can rotate to the most convenient position for operating. Start with whatever feels right for you, but remain critical and try to keep improving fit and comfort with smaller adjustments.

Might as well do some maintenance while you are at it: Seat post hard to move? Get it right out, clean it and grease the post; Nuts and bolts rusted tight? Get them out, wire brush the threads, grease them. Adjustments will then be easy to perform for years to come.

OK I set the seat so I have a slight bend at the knee. And I've still got about 1.5" of safe seat post to play with. So in that aspect it fits.

One thing I was adamint about when I got the bike was to be able to quickly disassemble it so I've got the quick access seat, and front and back wheel nuts. Those are in good shape and work well. My breaks work great and my derailers are in good working order.

So now I guess its just get on and ride?

Are there techniques I should be following?

Thanks for all the information you've given so far!

vbgagnon said:

I'll be doing most of my riding onroad

Smooth tires will give you the best results for this type of riding. Go on-line or to your LBS (local bike shop) and get some, within your budget of course, and run them at or near the maxium recomended inflation pressure. If you plan on DIY get somy tire levers. Also get new tubes, you don't need a bunch of flats. Get a patch kit and an air pump and learn how to fix a tire while you are on the road. Walking home is no fun.

If you are handy and like fixing your own stuff this is a great place for info and so is this.

I agree with the previous poster, and those two links will answer any mechanical question you may have with a little searching... And Sheldon's site will give you a little non-mechanical stuff too.

One thing I suffered through when I first got back into cycling... Don't let yourself pedal too slowly... keep your cadence up. Keep your pedals moving at about 70-80 RPM which will seem fast to start with, but you will get used to it, and your legs will thank you in the long run.

I rode for a month or two in too high of a gear, and therefore a lower cadence. I suffered for it. :o

The trick I used to help myself avoid the problems was to pick a gear that felt right and shift down one, and sometimes even two gears.

Another helpful hint to let you know you aren't abnormal, you will probably never be strong enough to be in your highest gear and maintain a healthy cadence unless you are going down hill. I have a triple chain ring on the front of my Sedona, and I rarely move off the middle ring unless I am going up or down a pretty significant hill. For us casual riders, the middle ring will have an acceptable gear range about 80% of the time or more...

Sounds like you are good to go! When I got back to cycling after a 10yr break, getting confidence to ride safely on the road in a new city was a hurdle. My approach was to err on caution, ride footpaths, study lanes and intersections, watch other riders, try different routes, and not be in a hurry.

I believe that going straight onto the road as another motorist, and following the road rules for motorists while not fully confident in my riding abilities is dangerous. So now my commute, and any other ride, is a blend of road riding where appropriate, and footpath/kerb hopping/pedestrian-dodging/cross-country where traffic is snarley and motorists are battling amongst themselves.

The speed differential between a bike and a pedestrian is about 5mph (when riding responsibly amongst pedestrians); and 20-50mph between a bike and a car on the road. In my city, the roads are jammed with speeding cars, and the footpaths are fairly empty. There is little provision for cyclists.

vbgagnon said:

I've got an older Jamis Cross Country, ..but want to get back into riding.

An old MTB is a good choice for that, it can be roadied up quite nicely and the fairly upright riding position is good both for comfort and for keeping your eyes on surrounding traffic. And if exercise is your main goal then you can't beating the economy in riding a bike you already own.

vbgagnon said:

The main reason I want to get back into cycling is to get back into shape, I've tried running but my shins just cannot take the pounding of running anymore.

Just because biking is low impact doesn't mean it can't be harmful. Do your warm-up, your wind-down and your stretches. Keep the cadence up (a bike computer can help you with that) and be wary of the high gears. Don't make riding your only form of exercise, but add some other discipline too to make it a well rounded program.

vbgagnon said:

So I guess my questions would be pretty basic. How do I setup to get a comfy ride of my bike,

You've already received some advice on basic bike fitting and you can find more on the web. Be prepared to buy some stuff.
If you haven't ridden in a while odds are that any saddle you try is likely to be uncomfortable initially, but if it's still uncomfortable after a few weeks of regular riding (and at few different angles) then it's time to start looking for a new one.
A good saddle is one that fits you, and there's no direct link between fit and price.

You might want to replace the stem at some point to get the handle bar in a better position.

Your current cassette probably has a far greater span of ratios than you're actually using, so you might consider a road cassette instead. As long as you still have the granny gear available in front you probably won't miss losing the biggest sprockets in the rear.

Get some real bicycle pants, and use them as intended. Once you've found a size/make that fits, buy several pairs so that you always have some freshly laundered.
Get some bike shoes and spd-style pedals.
If you already have windproof/semi-waterproof jackets bought for running they'll do nicely for your riding as well.
Fenders are nice if the weather turns bad. I particularly recommend a rear fender to protect from the rooster tail of road crud you otherwise will project onto your back.

I'd also suggest a helmet. It might not save you from "death by SUV", but it can protect you in a lot of less dramatic injuries. Particularly during the embarrassing slow sideways topple experienced by most people coming to terms with spd-pedals a helmet looks really likely to come in handy.

dabac said:

An old MTB is a good choice for that, it can be roadied up quite nicely and the fairly upright riding position is good both for comfort and for keeping your eyes on surrounding traffic. And if exercise is your main goal then you can't beating the economy in riding a bike you already own.

Just because biking is low impact doesn't mean it can't be harmful. Do your warm-up, your wind-down and your stretches. Keep the cadence up (a bike computer can help you with that) and be wary of the high gears. Don't make riding your only form of exercise, but add some other discipline too to make it a well rounded program.

You've already received some advice on basic bike fitting and you can find more on the web. Be prepared to buy some stuff.
If you haven't ridden in a while odds are that any saddle you try is likely to be uncomfortable initially, but if it's still uncomfortable after a few weeks of regular riding (and at few different angles) then it's time to start looking for a new one.
A good saddle is one that fits you, and there's no direct link between fit and price.

You might want to replace the stem at some point to get the handle bar in a better position.

Your current cassette probably has a far greater span of ratios than you're actually using, so you might consider a road cassette instead. As long as you still have the granny gear available in front you probably won't miss losing the biggest sprockets in the rear.

Get some real bicycle pants, and use them as intended. Once you've found a size/make that fits, buy several pairs so that you always have some freshly laundered.
Get some bike shoes and spd-style pedals.
If you already have windproof/semi-waterproof jackets bought for running they'll do nicely for your riding as well.
Fenders are nice if the weather turns bad. I particularly recommend a rear fender to protect from the rooster tail of road crud you otherwise will project onto your back.

I'd also suggest a helmet. It might not save you from "death by SUV", but it can protect you in a lot of less dramatic injuries. Particularly during the embarrassing slow sideways topple experienced by most people coming to terms with spd-pedals a helmet looks really likely to come in handy.

Thanks for all the great info! I'm going to go and get some road tires this weekend, and hopefully the weather warms up a bit and I can start next week. Its been in the mid 20's with a blistering wind.

What would the difference be between using spd pedals as compared to sneakers and toe clips?

I'd check my drivetrain and clean it. Degrease and brush your chain, chainwheels, and cassette/freewheel, and re -lube at minimum in returning your bike to service. Also check your chain for wear.

vbgagnon said:

What would the difference be between using spd pedals as compared to sneakers and toe clips?

About $200! That is what keeps me using the toe clips.

Akadat said:

About $200! That is what keeps me using the toe clips.

Well I think I'll stick to the toe clips for now. WHen I get a different bike I'll go that route.

vbgagnon said:

What would the difference be between using spd pedals as compared to sneakers and toe clips?

Bike shoes generally have a stiffer sole than sneakers, you won't feel the pedal platform imprinted on the bottom of your feet even after a hard day's riding.
Toe clip straps constricts around your foot in order to hold it to the pedal. This is never nice and can be a real problem if it gets cold.
With SPD the pedal attaches to a recessed knob on the sole, leaving the fit of the shoe undisturbed.

For the same degree of retention SPDs are easier both to get in and out.

Pedals wear slowly(unless banged up by direct impact), so they're fairly safe to buy 2nd hand.

They're also interchangeable between the overwhelming majority of bikes (maybe 90% or so), so if you find a pair that you're happy with you can use them on your next bike too.

Entry level pedals brand new (functionally OK) are $30-40, not too bad.
Cambriabike has some killer deals on shoes right now, but it looks like a more reliable entry level price tag would be $50.

Anybody have any recomendations for tires? Not really sure what to look for and I don't really have a lbs in my area.

I saw you said you are getting road tires, so I'll assume thats still true, and it's for a road wheel.

I'm partial to Vittoria Rubino Pro's and Rubino Pro Tech (the Tech being more durable). I've found they are very good for puncture resistance, they work well in wet conditions, and they corner fairly well. The worst luck I've had with tires would be the Bontrager tires.

Vittoria is slightly expensive, about $50 a tire.

I've heard good things about the Contiental GP4000. Search in the Equipment forum and you will find lots of comparisons of tires.

-Matt

mattjf said:

I saw you said you are getting road tires, so I'll assume thats still true, and it's for a road wheel.

I'm partial to Vittoria Rubino Pro's and Rubino Pro Tech (the Tech being more durable). I've found they are very good for puncture resistance, they work well in wet conditions, and they corner fairly well. The worst luck I've had with tires would be the Bontrager tires.

Vittoria is slightly expensive, about $50 a tire.

I've heard good things about the Contiental GP4000. Search in the Equipment forum and you will find lots of comparisons of tires.

-Matt

I want to get road tires, but they are for a mt bike.

mattjf said:

I saw you said you are getting road tires, so I'll assume thats still true, and it's for a road wheel.

I'm partial to Vittoria Rubino Pro's and Rubino Pro Tech (the Tech being more durable). I've found they are very good for puncture resistance, they work well in wet conditions, and they corner fairly well. The worst luck I've had with tires would be the Bontrager tires.

Vittoria is slightly expensive, about $50 a tire.

I've heard good things about the Contiental GP4000. Search in the Equipment forum and you will find lots of comparisons of tires.

-Matt

I second vittoria.

Try these