Anodising

Isn't the KH frame CroMoly? You can anodize aluminum, not steel. If it's
CroMoly it's a steel alloy and you're out of luck. Put a magnet on it
and see if it sticks. If so, you're not going to be anodizing it.

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harper said:

Isn't the KH frame CroMoly? You can anodize aluminum, not steel. If it's
CroMoly it's a steel alloy and you're out of luck. Put a magnet on it
and see if it sticks. If so, you're not going to be anodizing it.

KH frames have been aluminum since 2005.

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(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56195) Watch
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It is deffinitely possible to anodise any of the blue KH frames, infact
the blue colour is anodising. You will need to shot blast it back to
bare metal, and you will loose the KH signatures and KH 20/24/29 logo
on the neck, as these are areas that are bare metal and when you
anodise again they will be covered like the rest of it.

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kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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i'm interested too to know how to do that...

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bobousse
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bobousse said:

i'm interested too to know how to do that...

Well in short, go to a local anodising shop and give them some money.
You can anodise at home, but you'll need various equipment and salts,
and a big tub. I've seen sets of this equipment for doing small parts
and they're atleast £100, compared to maybe £20 to get it done
professionally it's not really worth it, and you'd have to get it
shotblast somewhere unless you have your own compressor and blast gun
too.

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kington99

Dave

- what a thoroughly post-modern subversion of the cycling genre -
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ok so i think that i'll probably go to a shop
thanks for the information
bobousse

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bobousse
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i would think powdercoating woul dbe nicer though, just a thought...
even pro anodising.. well its not as good as a nice powdercoat...

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brendan
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kington99 said:

It is deffinitely possible to anodise any of the blue KH frames, infact
the blue colour is anodising. You will need to shot blast it back to
bare metal, and you will loose the KH signatures and KH 20/24/29 logo
on the neck, as these are areas that are bare metal and when you
anodise again they will be covered like the rest of it.

i thought they were powdercoated

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I anno all my uni's with a blue to black fade, sometimes I'll have
another color in the "fade zone".

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mrwhitechristmas
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Anodizing is a pretty durable coating for aluminum. It is not immune to
fading over time though. It is essentially a controlled oxide coating
of the aluminum that does have a measurable build up. It'll will add
about .0005-.0010" of thickness everywhere. It is important that the
anodizing shop plug or mask all of the threaded holes and precision
bearing surfaces so that they don't get anodized. I've never looked
closely at a KH frame to know just how precision the bearing surfaces
are. My guess is, not enough to worry about. The thing to watch for
is the threaded holes. Most anodizing shops know to mask the threaded
holes but it's still best to make sure they do this. I've seen some
who just throw the parts in their vat and don't pay any attention to
this. The anodized finish gets into the threads and then you can't get
the bolts in. The surface is hard enough to make it a real bear to try
and clean the threads up with a tap. I've broken taps off in the hole
trying to clean up anodized threads before. And then, trying to get a
broken tap out of a hole can be damn near impossible.

That's all. Good durable finish that will fade over time and you gotta
watch the precision machined areas. Pretty colors available.

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underdog

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sweet, thanks for the help.
i have rung around and obtained some quotes for sandblasting and the
cheapest i found is about $80 an hour 🙁
i might try get some blasting time at my old school. as for anodising,
i cannot find anywhere that will do it and my anodising friend has left
for Sydney.

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tobbogonist

Just Jake said:

as long as youre not a total loser jock that gets mad when people arent
"as good as you"

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Aside from sandblasting there's a process I think is called "satin",
where they have a cloth on a spinner (like a buffer) which will strip
any paint or previous work to the metal. Though, the frame may be
awkward to work with and they may not be able to reach all the areas.
Also, if you get someone who's not really good with that machine they
can 'eat' right into the metal if they hold too long or press too
hard.

You can get various colourings for your anodizing, but they all scratch
fairly easily. For a more durable coating you would get a "hard
anodizing". Someone said it before but I'll say again make sure you
have them cover up any area where you don't want build up... like
threads and whatnot.

"Hard anodizing is a term used to describe anodic coatings with surface
hardness and/or abrasion resistance as their primary characteristic.
Great for surface to surface sliding with low loads The color of the
natural anodic coating depends on the alloy and the coating thickness.
e.g. 6061 has a tan or gray color which darkens to almost black at
003"; 6063 has an amber shade which darkens to bronze. Both are
considered clear. After hard anodizing surfaces may be sealed in
boiling distilled water, sodium dichromate solution, dewatering oil,
wax or PTFE solutions

Class 1: Not dyed or pigmented.

Class 2: Dyed. (Specify color on Drawing).
Hard anodic oxide coatings find application in the engineering industry
for components which require a very wear resistant surface. " Flash"
hard anodize may be used instead of conventional anodize for corrosion
resistance."

[image: http://www.alexandriametalfinishers.com/pieces.gif]

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