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Dynamo lights shopping

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UK and Europe
Published
24 January 2007
Last activity
31 January 2007
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Theo Markettos
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  1. I'm looking to buy some front and back lights that'll eventually be used
    with a hub dynamo, but until a new bike happens they'll run off batteries.
    Ideally the front light should be as bright as possible for use on unlit
    roads, with standlights. FWIW I'm looking at the lower end Shimano hubs
    when one is eventually installed.

    Last time (2002) I bought a Busch&Mueller Lumotec Oval Plus and a D-Toplight
    Plus, which have worked very well (apart from a dodgy connection frying the
    D-Toplight, but that's my fault). Any recommendations for today's models of
    lights?

    At the time it was much cheaper to order from Germany via bicycles.de, now:
    http://www.boc24.de/epages/bicycles.storefront/45b7e61300c8f0702719c240efa20708/Catalog/351000122?ProdPerPage=20
    Is it still cheaper to order from the Continent (any other German/Dutch/?
    suppliers?) or are there reasonably priced UK suppliers now?

    I presume I'd have to knock up my own 6V battery box for the time being, or
    do such exist for driving normally-dynamo lights from batteries?

    Thanks
    Theo

  2. Theo Markettos said:

    Last time (2002) I bought a Busch&Mueller Lumotec Oval Plus and a D-Toplight
    Plus, which have worked very well (apart from a dodgy connection frying the
    D-Toplight, but that's my fault). Any recommendations for today's models of
    lights?

    If I had to replace my dynamo lights I'd replace my Lumotec Oval Senso
    Plus with a D'Lumotec Oval Senso Plus (note the added 'D' at the
    beginning, indicating that it's an LED lamp), and I'd replace my
    D'Toplight Plus with another D'Toplight Plus:
    <url:http://www.bumm.de/index-e.html> and navigate accordingly.

    It really depends on your budget. If you were willing to spend
    ridiculous amounts of money (which I guess you're probably not if you're
    looking at the lower end Shimano dynamos) then the Solidlights would be
    worth a look:
    <url:http://www.solidlights.co.uk/>

    Now that dynamo front LED lights have hit the market, I wouldn't be
    inclined to look too hard at anything else. I'm not aware of any front
    LED dynamo lights other than the D'Lumotec range and the Solidlights.

    --
    Danny Colyer <URL:http://www.colyer.plus.com/danny/>
    Reply address is valid, but that on my website is checked more often
    "He who dares not offend cannot be honest." - Thomas Paine

  3. Theo Markettos said:

    I'm looking to buy some front and back lights that'll eventually be used
    with a hub dynamo, but until a new bike happens they'll run off batteries.
    Ideally the front light should be as bright as possible for use on unlit
    roads, with standlights. FWIW I'm looking at the lower end Shimano hubs
    when one is eventually installed.

    Personnally I use my dyno hub just to power to front lit, and use
    battery cateye LD600s on the rear. This reduces wiring and allows all
    the dyno current to power the front.

    Quoted message said:

    I presume I'd have to knock up my own 6V battery box for the time being, or
    do such exist for driving normally-dynamo lights from batteries?

    Electron do a 6V battery that could power a BM lit. Although electron's
    other lits are rubbish. Other companies do more expensive batteries, or
    you could go for a 6VPd Acid.

  4. Theo Markettos said:

    I'm looking to buy some front and back lights that'll eventually be used
    with a hub dynamo, but until a new bike happens they'll run off batteries.
    Ideally the front light should be as bright as possible for use on unlit
    roads, with standlights. FWIW I'm looking at the lower end Shimano hubs
    when one is eventually installed.

    Last time (2002) I bought a Busch&Mueller Lumotec Oval Plus and a D-Toplight
    Plus, which have worked very well (apart from a dodgy connection frying the
    D-Toplight, but that's my fault). Any recommendations for today's models of
    lights?

    At the time it was much cheaper to order from Germany via bicycles.de, now:
    http://www.boc24.de/epages/bicycles.storefront/45b7e61300c8f0702719c240efa20708/Catalog/351000122?ProdPerPage=20
    Is it still cheaper to order from the Continent (any other German/Dutch/?
    suppliers?) or are there reasonably priced UK suppliers now?

    For today's model as of lights, I'd suggest much the same thing, except
    I'd say get the D'Lumotec Oval Plus Senso (LED with standlight and
    autolight sensor) and for the back, stay with the D'Toplight Plus, or if
    you want something smaller, get the D'Toplight XS Plus.
    Alternatively, for the front look at the Solidlights (more expensive but
    brighter) or the 2W Inoleds (if you can figure out how to get them
    delivered to the UK).

    For suppliers, buying lights from the continent is still a lot cheaper
    in my experience:
    http://www.bike-components.de/ - cheap, but seems only accept payment by
    bank transfer
    http://www.bike24.com/ - reasonable prices, accept credit card
    http://www.roseversand.de/ - reasonable prices, accept credit cards
    http://www.gillesberthoud.fr/anglais/ - cheap, accept credit cards, but
    website broken last time I tried to order
    or check eBay, there's some Germany based sellers that are fairly cheap
    and accept Paypal

    Quoted message said:

    I presume I'd have to knock up my own 6V battery box for the time being, or
    do such exist for driving normally-dynamo lights from batteries?

    I think Inoled sell their own 6V NiMH battery box, though its not
    particularly cheap. It my be easier or cheaper to make your own using
    the required number of AA cells or similar.

    --
    Craig Wallace
    http://craig.neogeo.org.uk
    http://www.neogeo.org.uk

  5. "Theo Markettos" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm looking to buy some front and back lights that'll eventually be used
    with a hub dynamo, but until a new bike happens they'll run off batteries.
    Ideally the front light should be as bright as possible for use on unlit
    roads, with standlights. FWIW I'm looking at the lower end Shimano hubs
    when one is eventually installed.

    Last time (2002) I bought a Busch&Mueller Lumotec Oval Plus and a
    D-Toplight
    Plus, which have worked very well (apart from a dodgy connection frying
    the
    D-Toplight, but that's my fault). Any recommendations for today's models
    of
    lights?


    SNIP

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks
    Theo

    I run a B+M Oval on the front and recently upgraded from a bottle dynamo to
    a Shimano hub. I use battery back lights.

    My LBS said all Shimano hub dynamos now come with a light sensor so that's
    what I got (no need for that tech in the light unit). the B+M has a 3w
    halogen in it but I wouldn't say it is bright enough for unlit roads.

    I have a head mounted flashing LED as well so don't need a stand light. I
    still reckon flashing LED is better for being seen especially on busy / lit
    roads.

    The only advantage I think of the Shimano hub over the bottle is the noise
    reduction - so it is something of a luxury!

    Matt

  6. Matt said the following on 25/01/2007 07:30:

    Quoted message said:

    My LBS said all Shimano hub dynamos now come with a light sensor so that's
    what I got

    I had one of those, but found it didn't seem to work that well. It was
    almost impossible to move the switch wearing gloves, and either turned
    the lights on when they weren't needed, or didn't turn them on when they
    were. This is why I needed to use the switch! I've got rid of it and
    have the BuM Lumotec Standlight Oval Sensor Plus (I think that's all the
    names!) instead. This is the halogen bulb version, with a bright white
    LED standlight. The sensor on this works much better, although it has a
    tendency to play safe by putting the lights on when they're not really
    needed. Ironically though, it has a big clunky switch that I mainly
    just leave in one position - sensor mode!

    One side-effect of the white standlight - I used to keep getting "You've
    left your front light on" at work. It's hard to explain the concept
    that there's no batteries involved!

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  7. Anyone used a SRAM I-light hub dynamo?

  8. Matt said:

    "Theo Markettos" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm looking to buy some front and back lights that'll eventually be used
    with a hub dynamo, but until a new bike happens they'll run off batteries.
    Ideally the front light should be as bright as possible for use on unlit
    roads, with standlights. FWIW I'm looking at the lower end Shimano hubs
    when one is eventually installed.

    Last time (2002) I bought a Busch&Mueller Lumotec Oval Plus and a
    D-Toplight
    Plus, which have worked very well (apart from a dodgy connection frying
    the
    D-Toplight, but that's my fault). Any recommendations for today's models
    of
    lights?

    SNIP

    Quoted message said:

    Thanks
    Theo

    I run a B+M Oval on the front and recently upgraded from a bottle dynamo to
    a Shimano hub. I use battery back lights.

    My LBS said all Shimano hub dynamos now come with a light sensor so that's
    what I got (no need for that tech in the light unit). the B+M has a 3w
    halogen in it but I wouldn't say it is bright enough for unlit roads.

    I'm using the above setup Lumotec Oval Senso Plus with a Toplight run
    off a DH-2N30. Works fine, with lots of photons up front. Leave it in
    senso and ride.

    The setup is bearable for unlit forest/cinder sections, but I'm not sure
    about faster unlit roads. The old speed vs damage probability curve.

    I *might* consider replacing it with the LED variant front light
    mentioned above. I had it in my mucky hands but couldn't where the
    extra squids were going.

    The setup is currently 9 months ols, so this is its 1st winter workout,
    but I think it is the only way if you're commuting.

    Quoted message said:

    I have a head mounted flashing LED as well so don't need a stand light. I
    still reckon flashing LED is better for being seen especially on busy / lit
    roads.

    The only advantage I think of the Shimano hub over the bottle is the noise
    reduction - so it is something of a luxury!

    Matt

  9. Danny Colyer said:


    Now that dynamo front LED lights have hit the market, I wouldn't be
    inclined to look too hard at anything else. I'm not aware of any front
    LED dynamo lights other than the D'Lumotec range and the Solidlights.

    European spec Hella HL-2000 will automatically charge its batteries if
    connected to a dynamo, according the instructions in a UK spec one.
    The UK spec one has no dynamo connections on the mount, no sensor
    mode, but does have a flashing mode. Lucky us. But since the OP was
    considering ordering from abroad anyway, might be worth considering.
    A dedicated charger that you can just sit the light on instead of
    taking the batteries out is an option.
    http://www.globetrotter.de/de/shop/detail.php?mod_nr=aw_35563&k_id=0301&hot=0
    http://www.globetrotter.de/de/shop/detail.php?mod_nr=aw_35562&GTID=
    (According to the fish, "Innovative bicycle front light, which universally
    for the side runner -, hub direct current generator or Akkubetrieb is usable
    (by specially cables - not in the scope of supply contain)." :-) )

    Based on the performance of the UK one on batteries, it's not as bright
    as a (halogen) Lumotec at reasonable speed, but at £15 including a
    rear LED (Cycle King January sale) it was good value as a backup/town light.
    (That's the version without the charger - comes with alkalines.)
    Visibility from the sides is particularly good, a bit of glare from the top
    could be annoying if it wasn't under a bar bag.

    The UK one appears to be the same light sold by Halfords with a Bikehut
    brand as "Ultra Bright LED Light". The Hella rear is different.
    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10151&storeId=10001&partNumber=531368&langId=-1

  10. Theo Markettos said:

    I presume I'd have to knock up my own 6V battery box for the time being,
    or do such exist for driving normally-dynamo lights from batteries?

    Disclaimer: I haven't tried anything like this myself. However:

    Many dynamo headlights have built in regulation of some kind. These often
    work by shunting away excess current once the voltage reaches a certain
    limit (since bicycle dynamos more closely approximate a constant current
    device than a constant voltage one). I think that more sophisticated lights
    (e.g. Solidlights) use maximum power tracking. In both cases, I think you'd
    want to check that the regulation in place doesn't interact badly with
    whatever power source you use.

    I also seem to remember some talk of reed switches in Schmidt headlights not
    being designed to handle large currents (which would occur when the bulb
    was first switched on if using a battery).

    Anthony

  11. If you wnat to save a bit of money, you could try a Basta LED light on
    the rear. I have a 'Ray steady' which is a rack mounted rear LED lamp
    and seems fine - it mimics the look of the B&M rack mounted lamps in
    design, but Basta is cheaper - a tenner at Spa Cycles.

  12. Matt said:

    I run a B+M Oval on the front and recently upgraded from a bottle dynamo to
    a Shimano hub. I use battery back lights.

    I'd rather avoid battery rear lights as part of the point of having a dynamo
    is avoiding the 'Damn, my battery's flat so I have to walk XX miles home'
    moments. Though I'm guessing a decent rear LED needs nothing like the power
    of the old 0.6W tungsten bulb.

    Quoted message said:

    My LBS said all Shimano hub dynamos now come with a light sensor so that's
    what I got (no need for that tech in the light unit). the B+M has a 3w
    halogen in it but I wouldn't say it is bright enough for unlit roads.

    What's this switch like? I find riding with lights on during the day
    actually quite helpful - traffic seems to give me a wider berth (though it's
    difficult so tell whether they can actually see comparatively puny bike
    lights). It would be good to have something that could be left on all the
    time if desired.

    BTW, what are opinions on 12V lights? They weren't really an option in 2002
    but I see B&M are doing 12V 6W lights now. Do (decent/reasonably priced)
    12V hubs exist now? What's the legal situation with them (I understand
    they're not permitted in Germany, but in the UK?)

    Cheers
    Theo

  13. In news:[email hidden],
    Theo Markettos <[email hidden]> tweaked the
    Babbage-Engine to tell us:

    Quoted message said:

    BTW, what are opinions on 12V lights? They weren't really an option
    in 2002 but I see B&M are doing 12V 6W lights now. Do
    (decent/reasonably priced) 12V hubs exist now? What's the legal
    situation with them (I understand they're not permitted in Germany,
    but in the UK?)

    The only 12V dynamo of which I'm aware is the B&M sidewall one, which is
    /ferociously/ expensive. If you want 12 voles-worth of lights, it's
    probably better to go the Schmidt + dual 6 vole lights route:

    <URL:http://www.m-gineering.nl/son12vg.htm>

    --
    Dave Larrington
    <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
    Frozen gorillas can be used to control the temperature of a warm
    and stuffy room.

  14. Theo Markettos said:


    I presume I'd have to knock up my own 6V battery box for the time
    being, or do such exist for driving normally-dynamo lights from
    batteries?

    I used dynamo lights driven from a battery pack for several years.
    I used a number of battery solutions.

    A box that took standard cells has most flexibility for when you're
    out-and-about and your rechargeables expire - simply remove
    rechargeables and insert non-rechargeables bought from some local
    source. Alternatively, you can keep a pack of non-rechargeables with
    a five year shelf-life as backups.

    A 6V lead-acid looks tempting. However, I never had very good life
    out of them. You need to source one with deep-drain life, and these
    tend to be in large sizes (eg golf-cart / ride-on electric buggy).
    The ones in the size you want are more likely to be fire-alarm type
    expecting to sit on trickle forever and once in a blue moon discharge
    a little bit if there's a power cut. Also, the ones in a size you
    want seem to be not wildly tolerant of vibration. I didn't get
    terrific life from them - they died completely more often than I
    wanted.

    The best solution was using radio-control car NiCd packs. These are 6
    cells, so nominal 7.2V, so quite a high over-voltage. I had no
    problems (blew bulbs less often than the same bulbs on an actual
    bottle dynamo), but you might want to be a bit cautious with modern
    cleverer LED lights and the like.

    The advantage of these packs:
    1: They're next-thing to indestructible. Life on a bike is much
    easier for them than their intended life in a toy car where they might
    be called on to provide 35A or more, subject to horrible vibration and
    general abuse.

    2: the capacity is nice (1-2Ahr gives you several hours light from a
    2.4 W bulb).

    3: The connectors they come with as standard are tough,
    indestructible, polarised, latching and chunky enough to work with
    gloves. You can buy the mating connectors for your bike wiring loom
    from model shops. (You can wire a standard 4-cell-AA battery box to
    the same connector to give you an emergency spare pack).

    4: The pack physical size is both reasonably easy to fit on a bike
    (mine strapped across the pannier rack with a velcro strap) and
    standard (so when you buy another pack, it will fit in the same place
    with the same fixings).

    You will need a specific charger you probably don't have already
    (unless you play with RC cars, or have some other charger that will
    do six cells).

    In theory, you could make up a 5-cell pack from the same cells
    (www.overlander.co.uk cell inidividual cells, as will a decent model
    shop). However, as noted, I never had problems with 7.2V and buying
    ready-assembled standard packs is easier.

    regards, Ian SMith
    --
    |\ /| no .sig
    |o o|
    |/ \|

  15. Theo Markettos said:
    Matt said:

    My LBS said all Shimano hub dynamos now come with a light sensor so that's
    what I got (no need for that tech in the light unit). the B+M has a 3w
    halogen in it but I wouldn't say it is bright enough for unlit roads.

    What's this switch like? I find riding with lights on during the day
    actually quite helpful - traffic seems to give me a wider berth (though it's
    difficult so tell whether they can actually see comparatively puny bike
    lights). It would be good to have something that could be left on all the
    time if desired.

    it is designed to mount on the back of the fork crown contains a
    rXener diode, sensor and and has a small (read difficult to operate in
    motion in gloves) switch with Off, Sense and On positions. I really
    like the Sense function but after replacing three in a row in quick
    succession I gave up and fitted the sw-nx10 non-sensing switch that the
    shop sent me by mistake. OTOH My mum's one has run fine for several
    years

    best wishes
    james

  16. Theo Markettos said the following on 25/01/2007 13:08:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    My LBS said all Shimano hub dynamos now come with a light sensor

    What's this switch like?

    See my post earlier on - the Shimano switch I found to be not that good,
    and if I wanted to turn the lights on when the switch decided they
    weren't needed I had to take a glove off because the switch is so small.
    I found that it often didn't turn the lights on when they were needed,
    or turned them on when they weren't, but not consistently.

    The sensor built into the Lumotec lights does work much better, and
    plays it safe - the lights tend to come on when you might not have
    bothered otherwise.

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  17. Theo Markettos said:

    I'd rather avoid battery rear lights as part of the point of having a
    dynamo is avoiding the 'Damn, my battery's flat so I have to walk XX miles
    home' moments.

    I can see what you're saying, but I think it's worth pointing out that while
    incandescent lights do die very suddenly, just about any battery powered
    LED rear light will operate for many hours at reduced-but-still-adequate
    output before dying completely.

    Anthony

  18. In article said:

    The only 12V dynamo of which I'm aware is the B&M sidewall one, which is
    /ferociously/ expensive. If you want 12 voles-worth of lights, it's
    probably better to go the Schmidt + dual 6 vole lights route:

    Single hamster light for comparison: http://www.otherpower.com/hamster.html

  19. In article said:
    Theo Markettos said:

    I'd rather avoid battery rear lights as part of the point of having a
    dynamo is avoiding the 'Damn, my battery's flat so I have to walk XX miles
    home' moments.

    I can see what you're saying, but I think it's worth pointing out that while
    incandescent lights do die very suddenly, just about any battery powered
    LED rear light will operate for many hours at reduced-but-still-adequate
    output before dying completely.

    Many days even. An AA powered battery rear light will last for months
    of normal commuting.

  20. 25 Jan 2007 11:30:53 +0000 (GMT), Alan Braggins:

    Quoted message said:


    European spec Hella HL-2000 will automatically charge its batteries if
    connected to a dynamo, according the instructions in a UK spec one.
    The UK spec one has no dynamo connections on the mount, no sensor
    mode, but does have a flashing mode. Lucky us. But since the OP was
    considering ordering from abroad anyway, might be worth considering.
    A dedicated charger that you can just sit the light on instead of
    taking the batteries out is an option.
    http://www.globetrotter.de/de/shop/detail.php?mod_nr=aw_35563&k_id=0301&hot=0
    http://www.globetrotter.de/de/shop/detail.php?mod_nr=aw_35562&GTID=
    (According to the fish, "Innovative bicycle front light, which universally
    for the side runner -, hub direct current generator or Akkubetrieb is usable
    (by specially cables - not in the scope of supply contain)." :-) )

    I know of a german and an european version of the HL-2000. The german
    version allows for running it powered by the dyanmo. The dynamo will not
    (!) charge the batteries. If the dynamo deliveres power the light went on,
    if the dynamo stops the batteries take over.

    The german version of the HL-2000 has a low light ouptut. The european
    version even less. The unit is not watertight. The battery lid of the
    battery compartement can fall off without much force involved. When in a
    pocket the risk is very high tó switch the light on unintentionally...

    Not recommended.

    Andreas - get a DLumotec Oval or Inoled or Basta Pilot Steady!

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