Mavic rim tick-tick-tick

Dan said:

I know from this NG that this is not uncommon but what is the best fix?
It is driving me nuts.

Steady tick----tick----tick in the rear when pedaling or coasting.
Sometimes a tick-rick---tick-rick---tick-rick. If I move my weight
forward over the front wheel it stops and then returns when I sit back.
Open Pro rim, Centaur 9sp hub, 1.7mm DB spokes, alloy nipples w/
eyelets. I laced this rim onto the old spokes when the old rim was
damaged about 4 years ago. Probably close to 10,000 miles on the rim and
a couple crashes.

Any suggestions?

one of two things...or both...

noise between the nipp and eyelet-drops of lindseed oil between nipp
and eyelet..or wedge that holds the rim together for welding has come
loose..noise only. A punch in the channel where the rim strip is or
drill a wee hole and a bit of glue in there.

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Dan said:

I know from this NG that this is not uncommon but what is the best fix?
It is driving me nuts.

Steady tick----tick----tick in the rear when pedaling or coasting.
Sometimes a tick-rick---tick-rick---tick-rick. If I move my weight
forward over the front wheel it stops and then returns when I sit back.
Open Pro rim, Centaur 9sp hub, 1.7mm DB spokes, alloy nipples w/
eyelets. I laced this rim onto the old spokes when the old rim was
damaged about 4 years ago. Probably close to 10,000 miles on the rim and
a couple crashes.

Any suggestions?

one of two things...or both...

noise between the nipp and eyelet-drops of lindseed oil between nipp
and eyelet..or wedge that holds the rim together for welding has come
loose..noise only. A punch in the channel where the rim strip is or
drill a wee hole and a bit of glue in there.

I'll try the oily nipple thing first. If I have to mess with the joint
in the rim, do I punch or drill on each side of the seam or right at the
seam? If I drill and glue, I guess I try to drill through the rim and
not necessarily through the wedgie thing. I guess I don't really know
what the wedge is but I am picturing a flat bar just under the channel
where the rim tape goes.

Dan said:

I guess I don't really know
what the wedge is but I am picturing a flat bar just under the channel
where the rim tape goes.

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=EPODOC&IDX=US6048035&F=0

Dianne who? said:

Quoted message said:

I guess I don't really know what the wedge is but I am picturing a
flat bar just under the channel where the rim tape goes.

Quoted message said:

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

Quoted message said:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=EPODOC&IDX=US6048035&F=0

To bad that drawing did not include sockets and eyelets. Other than
that, it is beautifully descriptive of a reasonable rim, a MAVIC MA-2.

Jobst Brandt

Quoted message said:

Dan said:

I guess I don't really know
what the wedge is but I am picturing a flat bar just under the channel
where the rim tape goes.

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=EPODOC&IDX=US6048035&F=0

and here's a photo of the real thing. this shows a welded mavic rim.

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=2rmmn2d

as peter says, either hammer a little where the existing indents are or
drill and glue. i suspect the latter is the longer term solution.

Quoted message said:

Dianne who? said:

Quoted message said:

I guess I don't really know what the wedge is but I am picturing a
flat bar just under the channel where the rim tape goes.

Quoted message said:

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

Quoted message said:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=EPODOC&IDX=US6048035&F=0

To bad that drawing did not include sockets and eyelets. Other than
that, it is beautifully descriptive of a reasonable rim, a MAVIC MA-2.

"reasonable" for you is a rim that for the rest of us is heavy, whose
eyelets rust, and that is prone to flat spots. oh, and a rim that
requires you to wear your brake pads to fit before they reach maximum
efficiency. shall we talk about the anodizing on ma2's now?

jim beam said:

Quoted message said:

Dan said:

I guess I don't really know
what the wedge is but I am picturing a flat bar just under the channel
where the rim tape goes.

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=EPODOC&IDX=US6048035&F=0

and here's a photo of the real thing. this shows a welded mavic rim.

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=2rmmn2d

as peter says, either hammer a little where the existing indents are or
drill and glue. i suspect the latter is the longer term solution.

also available here with a description.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/275085692/

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Dan said:

I know from this NG that this is not uncommon but what is the best fix?
It is driving me nuts.

Steady tick----tick----tick in the rear when pedaling or coasting.
Sometimes a tick-rick---tick-rick---tick-rick. If I move my weight
forward over the front wheel it stops and then returns when I sit back.
Open Pro rim, Centaur 9sp hub, 1.7mm DB spokes, alloy nipples w/
eyelets. I laced this rim onto the old spokes when the old rim was
damaged about 4 years ago. Probably close to 10,000 miles on the rim and
a couple crashes.

Any suggestions?

one of two things...or both...

noise between the nipp and eyelet-drops of lindseed oil between nipp
and eyelet..or wedge that holds the rim together for welding has come
loose..noise only. A punch in the channel where the rim strip is or
drill a wee hole and a bit of glue in there.

I had this on an open pro after just over a year of use. I tried both
approaches and neither worked. I ended up having to replace the rim. Now
I have the same problem on a cxp33. Luckily at the moment it just
rattles at low speed. Its really put me off mavic rims. Which is a shame
as its difficult to get wheels built with other brands & I dont build my
own.

Stan Cox

P.s. Before you mention velocity rims I am British & have never seen a
pair over here

Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:09:04 GMT, Stan Cox <[email hidden]> informed
us:

Quoted message said:

I had this on an open pro after just over a year of use. I tried both
approaches and neither worked. I ended up having to replace the rim. Now
I have the same problem on a cxp33. Luckily at the moment it just
rattles at low speed. Its really put me off mavic rims. Which is a shame
as its difficult to get wheels built with other brands & I dont build my
own.

Stan Cox

P.s. Before you mention velocity rims I am British & have never seen a
pair over here

I also have this annoying tick-tick from a cxp33-rim at slow speeds. I
thought the noise came from a nipple I had dropped into the hollow of the
rim, when I built the wheel. And I made several attempts to find it and
shake it out.

It is relieving to have a valid diagnosis at last. I will definately try
the drill-glue-cure. Did anyone write Mavic, to inform them, they have
room for improvement here?

Ivar of Denmark

Ivar Hesselager said:

Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:09:04 GMT, Stan Cox <[email hidden]>
informed us:

Quoted message said:

I had this on an open pro after just over a year of use. I tried both
approaches and neither worked. I ended up having to replace the rim.
Now I have the same problem on a cxp33. Luckily at the moment it just
rattles at low speed. Its really put me off mavic rims. Which is a
shame as its difficult to get wheels built with other brands & I dont
build my own.

Stan Cox

P.s. Before you mention velocity rims I am British & have never seen a
pair over here

I also have this annoying tick-tick from a cxp33-rim at slow speeds. I
thought the noise came from a nipple I had dropped into the hollow of
the rim, when I built the wheel. And I made several attempts to find it
and shake it out.

It is relieving to have a valid diagnosis at last. I will definately try
the drill-glue-cure. Did anyone write Mavic, to inform them, they have
room for improvement here?

Ivar of Denmark

Please let us know if drill and glue works and tell us how you did it.

Dan

Quoted message said:

It is relieving to have a valid diagnosis at last. I will definately try
the drill-glue-cure. Did anyone write Mavic, to inform them, they have
room for improvement here?

Mavic has been made well-aware of their clicking rim problems, many, many
times. Unfortunately, the rims I've had the issue with couldn't be cured at
the seam/weld, since the problem was with the individual sockets. Oiling
them worked for only a short period of time. For what it's worth, the
problem seems not to occur until after the wheels have been ridden in the
rain and subsequently dried out.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

"Ivar Hesselager" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:opthryq9enxtdc4g@ivarsnotebook...

Quoted message said:

Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:09:04 GMT, Stan Cox <[email hidden]> informed
us:

Quoted message said:

I had this on an open pro after just over a year of use. I tried both
approaches and neither worked. I ended up having to replace the rim. Now
I have the same problem on a cxp33. Luckily at the moment it just
rattles at low speed. Its really put me off mavic rims. Which is a shame
as its difficult to get wheels built with other brands & I dont build my
own.

Stan Cox

P.s. Before you mention velocity rims I am British & have never seen a
pair over here

I also have this annoying tick-tick from a cxp33-rim at slow speeds. I
thought the noise came from a nipple I had dropped into the hollow of the
rim, when I built the wheel. And I made several attempts to find it and
shake it out.

It is relieving to have a valid diagnosis at last. I will definately try
the drill-glue-cure. Did anyone write Mavic, to inform them, they have
room for improvement here?

Ivar of Denmark

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Quoted message said:

It is relieving to have a valid diagnosis at last. I will definately try
the drill-glue-cure. Did anyone write Mavic, to inform them, they have
room for improvement here?

Mavic has been made well-aware of their clicking rim problems, many, many
times. Unfortunately, the rims I've had the issue with couldn't be cured at
the seam/weld, since the problem was with the individual sockets.

Stake 'em.

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I had this on an open pro after just over a year of use. I tried
both approaches and neither worked. I ended up having to replace
the rim. Now I have the same problem on a cxp33. Luckily at the
moment it just rattles at low speed. Its really put me off Mavic
rims. Which is a shame as its difficult to get wheels built with
other brands & I don't build my own.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It is relieving to have a valid diagnosis at last. I will
definitely try the drill-glue-cure. Did anyone write Mavic, to
inform them, they have room for improvement here?

Quoted message said:

Mavic has been made well-aware of their clicking rim problems, many,
many times. Unfortunately, the rims I've had the issue with
couldn't be cured at the seam/weld, since the problem was with the
individual sockets. Oiling them worked for only a short period of
time. For what it's worth, the problem seems not to occur until
after the wheels have been ridden in the rain and subsequently dried
out.

This has been a problem with all rims (even in the days of Fiamme
tubular rims) with non-stainless eyelets on which spoke nipples bear.
The reason a drop of oil on the interface (and turning the nipple fore
and aft once) doesn't give lasting relief is that this is a fretting
interface where liquid lubrication of any kind will not last. Next
time try anti seize compound, because it contains metallic particles
that prevent fretting seizure (but it is hard to put in place).

http://yarchive.net/bike/rust.html

Jobst Brandt

Quoted message said:

This has been a problem with all rims (even in the days of Fiamme
tubular rims) with non-stainless eyelets on which spoke nipples bear.

It was never a problem for me with Fiamme Yellows (Ergals), since they'd get
dented long before they got a chance to get noisy. Thankfully they were
relatively cheap, Robergel Sport spokes were cheap (but ugly), and I could
build wheels fast.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Quoted message said:

> I had this on an open pro after just over a year of use. I tried
> both approaches and neither worked. I ended up having to replace
> the rim. Now I have the same problem on a cxp33. Luckily at the
> moment it just rattles at low speed. Its really put me off Mavic
> rims. Which is a shame as its difficult to get wheels built with
> other brands & I don't build my own.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It is relieving to have a valid diagnosis at last. I will
definitely try the drill-glue-cure. Did anyone write Mavic, to
inform them, they have room for improvement here?

Quoted message said:

Mavic has been made well-aware of their clicking rim problems, many,
many times. Unfortunately, the rims I've had the issue with
couldn't be cured at the seam/weld, since the problem was with the
individual sockets. Oiling them worked for only a short period of
time. For what it's worth, the problem seems not to occur until
after the wheels have been ridden in the rain and subsequently dried
out.

This has been a problem with all rims (even in the days of Fiamme
tubular rims) with non-stainless eyelets on which spoke nipples bear.
The reason a drop of oil on the interface (and turning the nipple fore
and aft once) doesn't give lasting relief is that this is a fretting
interface where liquid lubrication of any kind will not last. Next
time try anti seize compound, because it contains metallic particles
that prevent fretting seizure (but it is hard to put in place).

http://yarchive.net/bike/rust.html

Jobst Brandt

Mike Jacoubowsky said:

Mavic has been made well-aware of their clicking rim problems, many, many
times. Unfortunately, the rims I've had the issue with couldn't be cured at
the seam/weld, since the problem was with the individual sockets. Oiling
them worked for only a short period of time. For what it's worth, the
problem seems not to occur until after the wheels have been ridden in the
rain and subsequently dried out.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

I put a drop of linseed oil (boiled, Peter didn't say boiled or raw) on
each nipple/eyelet yesterday and (feeling lazy) had the LBS tension and
true the wheel. 20 quiet miles today but I suppose it may come back.

Thinking about it while pedaling along, the noise I heard was kind of a
crick-crick noise like something under load moving. It seems doubtful to
me that the wedge would do this since it is not really under any load
and unless the weld has invisibly failed, nothing should be moving.

This bike has been ridden in all kinds of weather and conditions/ Well
not really in snow but dirt, rain, mud, dust, sand, etc. I am not shy of
riding it hard and replacing what breaks.

Dan said:

Quoted message said:

Thinking about it while pedaling along, the noise I heard was kind of a

crick-crick noise like something under load moving. It seems doubtful to
me that the wedge would do this since it is not really under any load
and unless the weld has invisibly failed, nothing should be moving.<<

I'd think you would only hear the wedge moving around if you are going 5mph
or less. Anything faster than that I think centrifugal forces hold the wedge
in place.

My CXP33's have the wedge rattling around at low speed so I speed up. 😉

jj1075

jj1075 said:

Dan said:

Quoted message said:

Thinking about it while pedaling along, the noise I heard was kind of a

crick-crick noise like something under load moving. It seems doubtful to
me that the wedge would do this since it is not really under any load
and unless the weld has invisibly failed, nothing should be moving.<<

I'd think you would only hear the wedge moving around if you are going 5mph
or less. Anything faster than that I think centrifugal forces hold the wedge
in place.

My CXP33's have the wedge rattling around at low speed so I speed up. 😉

jj1075

Believe me, when I'm on a 10% climb & the rim is rattling I'm already
going as fast as I can 🙂

Stan Cox

Stan Cox said:

Quoted message said:

Believe me, when I'm on a 10% climb & the rim is rattling I'm already

going as fast as I can 🙂

Stan Cox<<

In that case I use the tick-tick as a cadence tool.....no wonder I slow
down!

jj1075

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

This has been a problem with all rims (even in the days of Fiamme
tubular rims) with non-stainless eyelets on which spoke nipples

bear.

Quoted message said:

It was never a problem for me with Fiamme Yellows (Ergals), since

they'd get

Quoted message said:

dented long before they got a chance to get noisy. Thankfully they

were

Quoted message said:

relatively cheap, Robergel Sport spokes were cheap (but ugly), and I

could

Quoted message said:

build wheels fast.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

I still have a Fiamme Yellow rim in almost new condition. After I dented
the rear rim I decide that at 175 Lbs. I weighed too much to ride them.
They were only 260 gm or something like that right?

I've used it for stretching new sewups.

Chas.