Hello, rbt and rcm readers.
Here's my method for threading 14 gage stainless spokes with the Hozan
spoke threader. It looks like the hardened dies will work for now.
They may not live through an entire wheel set of spokes, as reported by
others. I haven't done a whole wheel yet.
Required:
Stainless spokes 14 gage
Spoke Cutter or nail nipper
Bench grinder or drill press with grinding stone and wire brush wheel
or small sharpener or sander (not oscillating)
Electric hand drill (optional)
Sulfur base EP thread cutting oi
2-56 die stock and holder
Drill press or shop square
Hozan threader
Micrometer or possibly digital caliper
Method:
Remove head
Clean head of chips by shaking in solvent bottle
Install head
Measure spoke diameter and compare to purchased 14 gage spoke
Stop if too large--you can ruin the rollers
Cut spoke to 3mm extra length plus thickness of die stock (probably
6mm)
Grind spoke as shown in
http://www.hozan.co.jp/cycle_e/catalog/wheel_stand/C-700.htm
Clean and lubricate die and spoke with threading oil
Using drill press (unpowered) or square to align,
thread end so that 3mm point sticks out of die
Clean spoke
Mark spoke with ink or tape at
12 mm or 16 mm engagement
plus 3mm point
plus thickness of die full depth (probably 6mm or 1/4 inch)
plus 6mm roller length
Lubricate threading head and spoke with threading oil
Thread to mark
making sure rollers bottom against head, not nuts
wathing for roller stall
slowly (it only takes hand torque)
Back out watching for roller stall
Clean spoke of oil and chips
Cut off extra length
Grind square to length
Finish with 2-56 die half depth of die
Power wire brush to remove burrs, chips, and grit
Measure thead OD, compare to commercial spoke
Test fit a nipple and adjust head if needed
or use shadowgraph/thread or record player needles microscope
or hold spoke to bright background if you are nearsighted to get
profile
adjusting head nut by only 5 degrees
Apply spoke prep (optional)
Use or store spoke
Remove head
Clean head of chips by shaking in solvent bottle
Store head or install and repeat
Discussion:
The ground taper is important to start the die. You can chuck the
spoke in an electric hand drill and keep it moving on the grinder to
get an even 3mm point. The die threads are important to start the
rollers; they can thread double start if you skip that step. Cleaning
and oiling between steps is important to prevent roller stall by chips.
A roller stall can grind a flat spot in a roller, making it useless.
You can sneak up on the required head setting if you aren't sure about
the torque. If the rollers really stall, take the nuts and rollers off
the head and clean them. Reinstall with the proper gap between nuts and
rollers; don't tighten the nuts.
A drill press chuck will receive the head end of the spoke. You can
guide the spoke with a drill chuck held in your hand or a hand electric
drill using the threading head only, rotating the head 120 degrees and
lining up the spoke with a slot in the head, turning the spoke into the
head about 180 degrees, then rotating the hea. You can't line up a die
very well with just a square since it has handles 180 degrees apart, so
putting the die stock on a drill press table and chucking the spoke
unpowered can help prevent a drunken thread.
It takes a hell of a long time. Carry extra spokes. They are so light
and strong they are worth it. Spoke making is a shop procedure. You
need references surfaces and more that isn't available when touring.
I am looking for a set of carbide Spiralock rollers for this threader.
I am lookng for replacement rollers; there's no need to buy a whole
head assembly.
I am looking at making an oil-submerged thread head holder that takes
power from an electric screwdriver. Lubrication is important!
Doug Goncz
Replikon Research
Seven Corners, VA 22044-0394