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Tyre pattern direction

Started by ivan · · Last activity · 29 posts · 401 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
23 August 2006
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24 August 2006
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ivan
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  1. I've got Wildlife Duro tyre on my QU-AX. I think I put it on the wrong
    way around, because the arrow on the tyre points back. Does it matter?
    Does it mean the tyre will wear faster? Should I put it on the right
    way?

    --
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  2. i changed my tyres around once, and accidentally put the tyre on
    backwards.

    the tread wore out more in 2 weeks with little riding than it did with
    3 months of lots of riding.

    change it over ASAP. i wish i had

    --
    iridemymuni

    Evan Byrne said:

    hope you like my super crappy present, but hey, you said you needed a
    wrench.

    ~~hold bananas and chug counterfeit tobasco for christ~~

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  3. i know people, contrary to the previous post, who run their tires
    backwards on purpose, because it supposedly gives 'more traction' on
    one wheel.

    I have no evidence to support that, as i really don't check to see if
    my tires on backwards or not.
    i just ride it.

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  4. Well, more traction would mean it would wear faster, wouldn't it?

    I'm just thinking if it's worth it taking it off and putting it on
    again, as it is a 3" tyre and when I was putting it on I bent a spoon.
    I'm afraid I'll bend my rim if I take it off.

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  5. it will wear the same no matter wich way you put it on. putting it on
    the recomended way will give better grip under decell (braking),
    running it backwards will give you more grip under power (uphill).

    Tires are designed to shed mud out of the tread while, rolling unis
    don't go fast enough for this to work. Most biketrials riders, will run
    the tires backwards for better grip against sliding backwards down
    obstacles. The same applies to muni.

    edit: you won't bend your rim. Buy good tire levers anyway, michelin's
    are my fav.

    --
    onetrack

    "People over here have a dangerous habit of adding quotes to signature
    lines."
    -Klaas Bil

    I pulled a sick trey varial hickflip over an 8 set yesterday, but
    unfortunately it was supposed to be seat in to seat out. I've named it
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  6. So it doesn't really matter which way for street/trials and casual
    riding, does it?

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  7. running the tyre backwards will wear it down faster. i'm not gunna go
    off all the technical stuff that it gives more grip uphill backwards
    and what they're designed to do and all that rubbish.

    i know from experience, it wore down more in 2 weeks when it was
    backwards than 3 months when it was forwards.

    --
    iridemymuni

    Evan Byrne said:

    hope you like my super crappy present, but hey, you said you needed a
    wrench.

    ~~hold bananas and chug counterfeit tobasco for christ~~

    'Bike Coalition!!' (www.bikecoalition.com)
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  8. Was it the same tyre as you normally use and were you riding the normal
    amount and doing the usual tricks?

    I've had it like that for about 5 weeks and it's only worn out in
    places where I hop. And I ride about 4 hours a day on the average.(and
    half of that time I hop). I'm kind of afraid to take it off, cause I
    might damage the rim. Maybe it's just for your tyre? What tyre do you
    have?

    When I first read your post I was like "OOOOOOHHHHH" and ran to take
    off the tyre, but only got as far as taking off the frame.

    --
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  9. iridemymuni said:

    i know from experience, it wore down more in 2 weeks when it was
    backwards than 3 months when it was forwards.

    10+ years of unicycling experience (8+ muni) tells me you don't know
    what you're talking about. tire pressure and ruber compound, and
    terrain make way more difference in tire life than direction.

    Ivan leave your tire alone unless you find you need to maximze
    downhill grip. you want it backwards for trials/street you'll get more
    grip when you up/gap to something and just catch the edge.

    --
    onetrack

    "People over here have a dangerous habit of adding quotes to signature
    lines."
    -Klaas Bil

    I pulled a sick trey varial hickflip over an 8 set yesterday, but
    unfortunately it was supposed to be seat in to seat out. I've named it
    the dioflip
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  10. onetrack said:

    10+ years of unicycling experience (8+ muni) tells me you don't know
    what you're talking about.

    10 seconds to read a post tells me you're a jerk.

    i know what i'm talking about, i build bikes and unicycles as a hobby.

    you can have all the experience you want mucking about on a unicycle,
    but when i've lost 1.5mm of tread in 3 months of riding, which included
    learning on it, riding muni and mainly road for loads of km's, and then
    when i accidentally put the tyre on backwards one day, and less than 3
    weeks later i've worn down 2mm of tread, i think i know what's going
    on. in that time period i rode it a lot, lot less and kept the tyre
    pressure the usual.

    now, i know you're not a rocket scientist (it's pretty damn obvious),
    but if i lose 1.5mm in 3 months with it forwards, and 2mm in 3 weeks
    with it backwards, one could pretty accuratly say that it was because
    of tyre rotation.

    second point.

    do you think they put the arrow there just for the heck of it? it must
    have some advantage in going the way it was design for. Sure it may
    give you more traction going up a hill with it backwards, but what
    about when you go down the hill? Uni's need grip to go forward, but at
    some point they slow down and need grip there too.

    well, i think we've now firmly established that my tread has worn down
    due to it being backwards. unless of course your 10 years of unicycling
    experience (which no doubt is much more impressive than any of the
    experiences i've had in my lifetime) can haul it's [censored] over to my
    garage, and show me why my tread wore down not because it was
    backwards.

    --
    iridemymuni

    Evan Byrne said:

    hope you like my super crappy present, but hey, you said you needed a
    wrench.

    ~~hold bananas and chug counterfeit tobasco for christ~~

    'Bike Coalition!!' (www.bikecoalition.com)
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  11. Quoted message said:

    10 seconds to read a post tells me you're a jerk.

    woah, calm down man

    Quoted message said:

    i know what i'm talking about, i build bikes and unicycles as a hobby.

    :eek: ORLY!. I've been doing that since you where 6 years old. Plus
    i've been doing custom fabrication on rally cars professionally for a
    few years now.

    Quoted message said:

    do you think they put the arrow there just for the heck of it? it must
    have some advantage in going the way it was design for.

    uh yeah dude, i don't know if you realize but these tires where built
    for downhill bikes. they are built to grip when the bike is leaned out
    on corners. they are designed to shed mud so they stay gripy. unicycles
    put different stresses on tires than a bike, much slower (duh) and no
    leaning over (duh). the arrow is totally irrelevant to unicyclists.

    Quoted message said:

    riding muni and mainly road for loads of km's

    loads of road km's on your dh tire is the dumbest thing i've ever
    heard. You're worried about tread life?

    I have enough tires in my garage thanks

    --
    onetrack

    "People over here have a dangerous habit of adding quotes to signature
    lines."
    -Klaas Bil

    I pulled a sick trey varial hickflip over an 8 set yesterday, but
    unfortunately it was supposed to be seat in to seat out. I've named it
    the dioflip
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  12. I put my CC on backwards, from the original direction it was at when I
    got it, and this was probably caused by the really thick tube that I
    used, I dont think it fully expanded to fit the tire.

    Anyways, after I got the tire on, I noticed it to be hard to ride, I
    got that one thing I hear everyone talk about, mainly on 28 and 29ers,
    where the uni pulls to the left or right, and it really sucked, but
    after riding on the tire for about an hour, it goes away, but its
    always showed up when I rode it for the first 3 days, now I am pretty
    sure its gone, and I am used to it.

    I do know on some, actually, most tires, the tread faces a direction,
    which makes it easier to roll with that direction, having it on
    backwards adds more traction and pulling issues on pavement, but when
    jumping and on dirt, it will help.

    I am not sure about it wearing out more, I guess it could happen on
    some tires, guess you gotta get lucky, or unlucky. one of those works.

    --
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  13. Maybe I should just put the whole wheel on backwards. That way I
    wouldn't have to actually take the tyre off. I would tighten the pedals
    once a week or so to make sure they stay tight. That'd be much easier
    than messing with the tyre.

    --
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  14. onetrack said:

    woah, calm down man

    :eek: ORLY!. I've been doing that since you where 6 years old. Plus
    i've been doing custom fabrication on rally cars professionally for a
    few years now.

    loads of road km's on your dh tire is the dumbest thing i've ever
    heard. You're worried about tread life?

    i'll calm down in my own time thankyou, i don't need somebody who i
    don't know who lives on the ohter side of the world to tell me what to
    do with my emotions.

    wow you've been doing custom fabrication on rally cars professionally
    for a few years? that's just so relevant to the topic.

    loads of road km's on my dh tire is the dumbest thing you've ever
    heard?
    you musn't hear much.

    dumb would be me every time i want to ride on the road changing my
    tyre. i'd have to change it every 2 days. i'd rather ride my dh tyre
    than spend all that time switchting tyres thankyou.

    what do you mean unicycles don't lean over? i lean over on my unicycle
    for turns all the time.

    i originally said that from my experience, that riding with the tyre on
    backwards wears down the tread faster.

    you disagreed and said that because you've been such a hot-shot
    unicycle rider for so long that i don't know what i'm talking about.

    i don't know what you're on about, like seriously?
    are you trying to impress me with all these figures and job's you've
    told me about?

    when i ride a tyre for 3 months and get 1.5mm of tread worn off, and
    when i ride that same tyre backwards for 3 weeks and get 2mm of tread
    wear, i think it's fair enough to say that it was because it was
    backwards. surely, you don't need experience to tell you that?

    --
    iridemymuni

    Evan Byrne said:

    hope you like my super crappy present, but hey, you said you needed a
    wrench.

    ~~hold bananas and chug counterfeit tobasco for christ~~

    'Bike Coalition!!' (www.bikecoalition.com)
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  15. ivan said:

    Maybe I should just put the whole wheel on backwards. That way I
    wouldn't have to actually take the tyre off. I would tighten the pedals
    once a week or so to make sure they stay tight. That'd be much easier
    than messing with the tyre.

    Putting the wheel in backwards will mean the pedals will come loose
    despite regular tightening and will try to fall out at the worst moment
    also riding with the pedals the slightest bit loose totally kills
    cranks and rips out the thread.

    If you want to put the wheel in backwards you will have to pull off the
    cranks and swap them round, which is probably more work than just
    pulling the tire off

    jim

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  16. onetrack said:


    uh yeah dude, i don't know if you realize but these tires where built
    for downhill bikes. they are built to grip when the bike is leaned out
    on corners. they are designed to shed mud so they stay gripy. unicycles
    put different stresses on tires than a bike, much slower (duh) and no
    leaning over (duh). the arrow is totally irrelevant to unicyclists.

    I'd disagree with what you're saying here completely, faster riders do
    ride fast enough for the mud shedding properties of the tyre to be
    useful. They also lean over to rail corners on downhills in a similar
    way to bike riders. If you're just doing trials, then maybe not, but
    muni riding certainly uses the tyres in a much more similar way to a
    bike than you're suggesting.

    Also, different tyres have very different tread designs, so you can't
    make sweeping generalisations about running them backwards. For example
    some tyres (IRC make some like this) are designed to be run one
    direction on the front for braking, and one direction on the back for
    acceleration. With tyres with a single direction on them, what you get
    or lose by running them backwards basically depends on what they're
    designed for primarily.

    It's also pretty obvious that if running the tyre backwards affects the
    way in which the tyre rides, it must be affecting the way in which it
    contacts the ground, making it grip more in some situations and less in
    others. Depending on your riding style this will clearly make a
    difference to the wear rate, although it might not be significant.

    To be honest though, all this stuff about more traction, or more
    protection against slipping backwards by running the tyre the wrong way
    is all the sort of stuff that only people who'd be better off just
    practicing more care about. I've ridden a brand new gazz with it on
    backwards until it wore out, and several the right way round and it
    made no difference to the ride.

    Joe

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  17. Can you swap the cranks around?
    That's good, cause I was gonna take them off anyway to grease them.
    Maybe I should do that. I have splined hub. That seems to solve both my
    problems. Are you sure I can do that?

    --
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  18. yeah sure, go for it. cause you've got splined you can take them off and
    put them back on whenever you want because you won't wear them down
    like standard taper.

    just make sure you take them off properly, dont whack them with
    anything!

    instead of taking my tyre off and turning it the right way i just took
    the cranks off and switched the wheel around. (i was changing crank
    sizes anyway).

    --
    iridemymuni

    Evan Byrne said:

    hope you like my super crappy present, but hey, you said you needed a
    wrench.

    ~~hold bananas and chug counterfeit tobasco for christ~~

    'Bike Coalition!!' (www.bikecoalition.com)
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  19. Do I need a bearing puller for that or will the allen keys do?

    --
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  20. what brand of hub do you have?

    i think with the koxx splined you need a crank puller.

    with the KH i think it's got a self extracting bit but i'm not sure,
    neither am i with profiles.

    (you might be able to just pull them off with your hands)

    if you've got a DX if you undo the pinch bolt on the crank and the bolt
    holding it in to the hub, you should be able to pull it off i think.

    (don't take my word for any of this, i think that's how it is but i'm
    not too sure)

    --
    iridemymuni

    Evan Byrne said:

    hope you like my super crappy present, but hey, you said you needed a
    wrench.

    ~~hold bananas and chug counterfeit tobasco for christ~~

    'Bike Coalition!!' (www.bikecoalition.com)
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