Australia and New Zealand · Public discussion

Fscking Shimano!!

Started by Absent Husband · · Last activity · 61 posts · 2,695 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Australia and New Zealand
Published
24 July 2006
Last activity
17 August 2006
Original author
Absent Husband
Posts
61
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
2,695
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–20 of 61
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Over the weekend, I noticed my rear wheel was slightly out of true, so
    figured that I should pull out the old spoke key and have a fiddle...

    The rear is a Shimano r550, which I love by the way (yes, I'm aware of
    its reputation!!). Anyway - first of all, I realised that I couldn't
    access the drive side nipples unless I took off the cassette (the
    nipples are near the hub)!!! *grrr*

    Then, after I'd removed the cassette, I discovered that my old nifty
    little BBB spoke key (that has 3 sizes for different size nips), was
    too small!!

    So today, I rang around a few bike shops to find out if they had a
    spoke key that would fit (and I could buy). Turns out that I have to
    buy a special Shimano spoke key, because they are the only ones that
    make 'em that size... *grrrrrr*

    I stilll love my Shimano r550 wheels. But not quite as much as I did a
    week ago... *grins*

    Cheers,
    Abby

  2. Here's a trick - go to a good tool shop, or a model railway/hobby shop,
    and buy the smallest adjustable spanner you can get (40mm long is a
    small one). Get a nice precise one
    (German/Japanese/Swedish/American/maybe Taiwanese, not Chinese (yet).
    This will do for all those silly nipple sizes on alloy and specialist
    spokes, with the exception of Mavic Ksyrium alloy nipples (whose keys
    are cheap and available). It'll probably be cheaper and quicker. Make
    sure you've got a blade key to hold the spoke blades straight, or turn
    them back if they've twisted. Make one with a thin slot in a small
    block of wood. The Shimano keys have one in the other end of the key.

    Ready yourself for the mental gymnastics of figuring our which nipple
    to turn, and which way (they're upside down now, don't forget . . . )
    🙂

    Good luck, and if you run into trouble, let me/us know, I think we can
    help . . .

    MH

    Absent Husband said:

    Over the weekend, I noticed my rear wheel was slightly out of true, so
    figured that I should pull out the old spoke key and have a fiddle...

    The rear is a Shimano r550, which I love by the way (yes, I'm aware of
    its reputation!!). Anyway - first of all, I realised that I couldn't
    access the drive side nipples unless I took off the cassette (the
    nipples are near the hub)!!! *grrr*

    Then, after I'd removed the cassette, I discovered that my old nifty
    little BBB spoke key (that has 3 sizes for different size nips), was
    too small!!

    So today, I rang around a few bike shops to find out if they had a
    spoke key that would fit (and I could buy). Turns out that I have to
    buy a special Shimano spoke key, because they are the only ones that
    make 'em that size... *grrrrrr*

    I stilll love my Shimano r550 wheels. But not quite as much as I did a
    week ago... *grins*

    Cheers,
    Abby

  3. Quoted message said:

    Here's a trick - go to a good tool shop, or a model railway/hobby shop,
    and buy the smallest adjustable spanner you can get (40mm long is a
    small one).

    Or, buy a set of boltcutters, chop the wheel into pieces that will fit
    in a bin, and get some decent wheels!

  4. Bleve said:

    Or, buy a set of boltcutters, chop the wheel into pieces that will fit
    in a bin, and get some decent wheels!

    *lmao!*

    Thanks Bleve - I was kind of anticipating that sort of response from
    you!! *grins*

    Quoted message said:

    From my research on those wheels (I was inspired by Travis!!), it


    seemed that people were either getting wheels that were going
    pear-shaped straight away, or wheels that were lasting for ages that
    they were very happy with. So it seemed to me that there were good
    batches and bad batches...

    So then this wheelset came up second hand (Tam put me on to them...).
    An r540 front & r550 rear.

    The seller told me that he had a pair of r540's. The front was great,
    but the rear kept snapping spokes, so Shimano replaced it under
    warranty (but with an r550).

    So far, I've had about 6 months of trouble-free riding on them
    (commuting/training/racing). They feel much, much better than my
    previous wheels (Mavic CXP22's on Sora hubs). And I've had no probs,
    bar the rear just now coming slightly out of true (nothing serious, I'm
    just being an#l about having a super-straight wheel!!).

    So you can count me as a data point under "happy with Shimano
    wheels..."!! *laughs*

    Cheers all (and thanks mfhor for the advice, I'll follow that up...),
    Abby

  5. Absent Husband said:
    Bleve said:

    Or, buy a set of boltcutters, chop the wheel into pieces that will fit
    in a bin, and get some decent wheels!

    *lmao!*

    Thanks Bleve - I was kind of anticipating that sort of response from
    you!! *grins*

    Quoted message said:

    From my research on those wheels (I was inspired by Travis!!), it


    seemed that people were either getting wheels that were going
    pear-shaped straight away, or wheels that were lasting for ages that
    they were very happy with. So it seemed to me that there were good
    batches and bad batches...

    So then this wheelset came up second hand (Tam put me on to them...).
    An r540 front & r550 rear.

    You actually *bought* a pair of them?!

    They come with a lot of lowend roadies, and that's why there's a lot of
    the damn things around. But buying some, by choice?! (Tam ... you and
    I are having a -talk- and it will be -stern- 🙂 )

    Quoted message said:

    The seller told me that he had a pair of r540's. The front was great,
    but the rear kept snapping spokes, so Shimano replaced it under
    warranty (but with an r550).

    So far, I've had about 6 months of trouble-free riding on them
    (commuting/training/racing). They feel much, much better than my
    previous wheels (Mavic CXP22's on Sora hubs). And I've had no probs,
    bar the rear just now coming slightly out of true (nothing serious, I'm
    just being an#l about having a super-straight wheel!!).

    So you can count me as a data point under "happy with Shimano
    wheels..."!! *laughs*

    Personal question time: what do you weigh?
    At my LBS, we sell a reasonable number of lowend roadies with these
    wheels on them, and generally suggest that riders greater than 80kg or
    so upgrade the wheels either at purchase-time or as soon as they start
    to break. If you're less than that, you might be ok though. That's
    been my experience with them anyway.

  6. Bleve said:


    Absent Husband wrote:


    <snip>

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    So then this wheelset came up second hand (Tam put me on to them...).
    An r540 front & r550 rear.

    You actually *bought* a pair of them?!

    They come with a lot of lowend roadies, and that's why there's a lot of
    the damn things around. But buying some, by choice?! (Tam ... you and
    I are having a -talk- and it will be -stern- 🙂 )

    <snip>

    Nah, fsck off!

    I told Abby that you recommended ANYTHING but them. How many times did
    I fscking tell him? But he wanted them. So rather than making him pay
    full price, I told him when some got advertised second hand from the UQ
    Tri club.

    Grrr.

    T

  7. By "lowend" do you mean 105 or Ultegra equipped bikes? Coz they come on
    a few of those, from various makers.

    FYI:

    R-550 wheels are a replacement for the truly woeful R-540 wheels (man,
    am I sick of replacing spokes in those) and are actually QUITE a bit
    better than them. They have far fewer failures and wobbles, and
    engineeringly, keeping the nipples at the hub is a good idea (lower
    circumferential rotating mass). HOWEVER, they're more difficult to true
    and replace spokes in than conventional wheels (hence thread topic),
    suffer fatigue under heavier riders who do a lot of k's (low spoke
    count is bad for this), but are good for weekenders who want a
    relatively fast wheel for low $ input (try $400/pr vs.
    Mavic/Bontrager/Velcocity/Wheelcraft $750-1000/pr for same nominal
    spec, yes, material quality prob. differs). Don't be a wheel snob.
    Every step is a step on the way to greatness, if only acknowledged as
    such . . . 🙂

    MH

    Bleve said:
    Absent Husband said:
    Bleve said:

    Or, buy a set of boltcutters, chop the wheel into pieces that will fit
    in a bin, and get some decent wheels!

    *lmao!*

    Thanks Bleve - I was kind of anticipating that sort of response from
    you!! *grins*

    Quoted message said:

    From my research on those wheels (I was inspired by Travis!!), it


    seemed that people were either getting wheels that were going
    pear-shaped straight away, or wheels that were lasting for ages that
    they were very happy with. So it seemed to me that there were good
    batches and bad batches...

    So then this wheelset came up second hand (Tam put me on to them...).
    An r540 front & r550 rear.

    You actually *bought* a pair of them?!

    They come with a lot of lowend roadies, and that's why there's a lot of
    the damn things around. But buying some, by choice?! (Tam ... you and
    I are having a -talk- and it will be -stern- 🙂 )

    Quoted message said:

    The seller told me that he had a pair of r540's. The front was great,
    but the rear kept snapping spokes, so Shimano replaced it under
    warranty (but with an r550).

    So far, I've had about 6 months of trouble-free riding on them
    (commuting/training/racing). They feel much, much better than my
    previous wheels (Mavic CXP22's on Sora hubs). And I've had no probs,
    bar the rear just now coming slightly out of true (nothing serious, I'm
    just being an#l about having a super-straight wheel!!).

    So you can count me as a data point under "happy with Shimano
    wheels..."!! *laughs*

    Personal question time: what do you weigh?
    At my LBS, we sell a reasonable number of lowend roadies with these
    wheels on them, and generally suggest that riders greater than 80kg or
    so upgrade the wheels either at purchase-time or as soon as they start
    to break. If you're less than that, you might be ok though. That's
    been my experience with them anyway.

  8. All this talk of [censored] lowend Shimano wheels had me worried about my
    OCR2. Very relieved after a discussion at Abbotsford Cycles this morning
    to find the 2005 OCR2 doesn't have the problem wheels and spokes. Phew!
    Any response about problems with the Xero XSR-4 wheel set will be met
    with fingers in the ears and la-la-la-la-la-la-la-laaaa.

    DaveB

  9. In aus.bicycle on 23 Jul 2006 19:36:35 -0700

    Bleve said:

    At my LBS, we sell a reasonable number of lowend roadies with these
    wheels on them, and generally suggest that riders greater than 80kg or
    so upgrade the wheels either at purchase-time or as soon as they start
    to break. If you're less than that, you might be ok though. That's
    been my experience with them anyway.

    Hmm.. The bent is low end specs all round (economies of scale) and
    uses Alex rims which I expect are cheap as.

    I weigh more than 80 and it's not light either. Plus the amount of
    kit I take with me to work....

    So should I be expecting the rims to go? Spokes to break?

    Zebee

  10. Absent Husband said:

    Over the weekend, I noticed my rear wheel was slightly out of true, so
    figured that I should pull out the old spoke key and have a fiddle...

    The rear is a Shimano r550, which I love by the way (yes, I'm aware of
    its reputation!!). Abby


    I broke a few spokes on the rear (r550) after doing about 2000k so I had the wheel relaced with DT Swiss. Done 3000k since and there has been no movement at all. Anyway something to think about.

  11. DaveB said:

    All this talk of [censored] lowend Shimano wheels had me worried about my
    OCR2. Very relieved after a discussion at Abbotsford Cycles this morning
    to find the 2005 OCR2 doesn't have the problem wheels and spokes. Phew!
    Any response about problems with the Xero XSR-4 wheel set will be met
    with fingers in the ears and la-la-la-la-la-la-la-laaaa.

    What about the 2005 (or was it 2004?) OCR3? Mind you, I'm strongly
    inclined to buy a dynamo hub, which means a new wheel anyway ...

    --
    My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
    the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@ to usenet".

  12. Quoted message said:

    By "lowend" do you mean 105 or Ultegra equipped bikes? Coz they come on
    a few of those, from various makers.

    The groupset is not the determiner of lowend or highend bike, it's just
    a symptom 🙂

    The Inexa's and Racelines we sell to the groupset chasers ("I want the
    cheapest Ultegra/105 bike I can get! don't care if the frame is flexo
    the jellyframe, the chainstay brace stops the back wheel being fitted
    when inflated and the forks made of wet spaghetti and it rides like a
    BMX with a cracked seatpost, damnit I want Ultegra and I won't pay more
    than $2000 for it!"😉 all come with them, as do a lot of the Cannondale
    Synapse's (definately not a lowend frame & fork, but they cut the costs
    elsewhere for the Al alloy version, the wheels .. the wheels ...).

    Quoted message said:


    FYI:

    R-550 wheels are a replacement for the truly woeful R-540 wheels (man,
    am I sick of replacing spokes in those) and are actually QUITE a bit
    better than them. They have far fewer failures and wobbles, and
    engineeringly, keeping the nipples at the hub is a good idea (lower
    circumferential rotating mass). HOWEVER, they're more difficult to true
    and replace spokes in than conventional wheels (hence thread topic),

    And that's *when* you can get spokes from Shimano ... we had a lot of
    supply issues with them early on in their release cycle.
    By reports, the R560 is actually an ok wheel. We haven't sold many,
    and have had none come back.But IMO, the R550 (and the R540, of course)
    is junk. They -look- fast. They -are- [censored]. They're less [censored] than
    the R540, sure, but they're still [censored]. I have one at home at the
    moment, but I don't trust it for anything except the spin trainer and
    the bloke who owns it doesn't want it back 🙂 A few of the riders I
    coach have them, and most of them have horror stories about them too.
    A few have been lucky and haven't broken them yet, and might not do so.
    It may be a quality control problem with them, and these guys have
    been lucky and got some that didn't have spokes made from britalloy.

    Quoted message said:

    suffer fatigue under heavier riders who do a lot of k's (low spoke
    count is bad for this), but are good for weekenders who want a
    relatively fast wheel for low $ input (try $400/pr vs.
    Mavic/Bontrager/Velcocity/Wheelcraft $750-1000/pr for same nominal
    spec, yes, material quality prob. differs). Don't be a wheel snob.

    I'm the furthest you'll get from a wheel snob, I recommend cheap 32
    spoke wheels built up around open pros or some heavier rim and 105 hubs
    most of the time.

    Speaking of snobbery, I ran dura-ace through my madone yesterday
    (replaced the 10sp ultregra with 10sp D-A) and I can't tell the
    difference except the brakes feel a touch more sensitive, but that may
    just be the new pads. The 10sp ultegra will get shuffled onto my 1400
    (57,000km and still going!) this week so I have a wet weather bike
    again 🙂 My 105 shifters (9sp) still work but are a bit sloppy after
    some 10's of thousands of gear changes. The only real difference is
    weight and stiffness of the brakes, I reckon, now I've put a lot of k's
    onto 105 and Ultregra to make a comparison ....

    Quoted message said:

    Every step is a step on the way to greatness, if only acknowledged as
    such . . . 🙂

    Unless it's a step backwards 🙂

  13. Zebee Johnstone said:

    Hmm.. The bent is low end specs all round (economies of scale) and
    uses Alex rims which I expect are cheap as.

    I weigh more than 80 and it's not light either. Plus the amount of
    kit I take with me to work....

    So should I be expecting the rims to go? Spokes to break?

    No. Alex rims are ok quality, not light, but plenty strong enough, and
    you've got little wheels, which are stronger than big wheels. (20" on
    your 'bent?). *and* you have more wheels to spread the load around too!

  14. Dancier said:
    Absent Husband said:

    Over the weekend, I noticed my rear wheel was slightly out of true, so
    figured that I should pull out the old spoke key and have a fiddle...

    The rear is a Shimano r550, which I love by the way (yes, I'm aware of
    its reputation!!). Abby


    I broke a few spokes on the rear (r550) after doing about 2000k so I
    had the wheel relaced with DT Swiss. Done 3000k since and there has
    been no movement at all. Anyway something to think about.

    That would be an ok solution 🙂

  15. Tamyka Bell said:
    Quoted message said:

    They come with a lot of lowend roadies, and that's why there's a lot of
    the damn things around. But buying some, by choice?! (Tam ... you and
    I are having a -talk- and it will be -stern- 🙂 )

    <snip>

    Nah, fsck off!

    I told Abby that you recommended ANYTHING but them. How many times did
    I fscking tell him? But he wanted them. So rather than making him pay
    full price, I told him when some got advertised second hand from the UQ
    Tri club.

    Grrr.

    T

    Sorry Tam - I dumped you in it!!!

    For the record - Tam referred me to a 2nd-hand seller. But then told me
    what a lewser I would be if I bought them *laughs*. So she is
    definitely not guilty of any cycling transgressions...

    Abby

  16. Bleve said:
    Quoted message said:

    By "lowend" do you mean 105 or Ultegra equipped bikes? Coz they come on
    a few of those, from various makers.

    The groupset is not the determiner of lowend or highend bike, it's just
    a symptom 🙂

    The Inexa's and Racelines we sell to the groupset chasers ("I want the
    cheapest Ultegra/105 bike I can get! don't care if the frame is flexo
    the jellyframe, the chainstay brace stops the back wheel being fitted
    when inflated and the forks made of wet spaghetti and it rides like a
    BMX with a cracked seatpost, damnit I want Ultegra and I won't pay more
    than $2000 for it!"😉 all come with them, as do a lot of the Cannondale
    Synapse's (definately not a lowend frame & fork, but they cut the costs
    elsewhere for the Al alloy version, the wheels .. the wheels ...).

    I was being a little unfair to the Inexa's, they're not that bad a
    frame, they ride ok and are pretty stiff, their weakness is the front
    end - forks are a bit vague - you can feel it when you stand up and
    pedal, they weave a bit more than I'd like. I haven't taken one down a
    fast descent, but I imagine it might not be as solid as a more rigid
    fork/headset combination. Early Giants have the same sort of problem
    (maybe it's the same fork? probably comes from the same factory ...).
    I'll probably get an Inexa track bike as a hack to learn track racing
    on over summer, I'll know more about them after a season of debarking
    on a concrete smellodrone 🙂

  17. Bleve said:


    You actually *bought* a pair of them?!

    YES!!! They cost me $100. The r540 (front) is approx 2yo and had done
    about 8000km. The r550 (rear) is 1yo and had done roughly 2000km. I can
    still easily see the rim wear indicator on both, and the hubs spin
    smoothly & sweetly...

    But remember what I was coming from. The CXP22's were a whole heap of
    [censored]. Lots of spoke problems (I had to replace them once under warranty
    already!!). And I was truing the rear wheel once every month. They
    sucked big time.

    Quoted message said:


    Personal question time: what do you weigh?
    At my LBS, we sell a reasonable number of lowend roadies with these
    wheels on them, and generally suggest that riders greater than 80kg or
    so upgrade the wheels either at purchase-time or as soon as they start
    to break. If you're less than that, you might be ok though. That's
    been my experience with them anyway.

    I weigh 80kg's (down from about 90kg's 18 months ago... *grins*). So
    whilst not the lightest rider in the bunch, hopefully not heavy enough
    to buckle any wheels (unless that sprint program you put me on swells
    my quads to triple-size!! *laughs*)

    At any rate, I'm on a povo cycling budget. Whilst I lust after bling,
    I'm riding an Orbea Enol using Sora running gear (with my s3xy Shimano
    wheels *laughs*). I'm eyeing off the 'new' 10sp 105 gruppo, and am
    saving up for that (whether it be onto my current frame, or a new bike)
    - but 2 kids, school fees, kids' gymnastics & swimming lessons, etc,
    etc, all have a much higher priority... 🙂

    Cheers,
    Abby

  18. Bleve said:
    Dancier said:
    Absent Husband said:

    Over the weekend, I noticed my rear wheel was slightly out of true, so
    figured that I should pull out the old spoke key and have a fiddle...

    The rear is a Shimano r550, which I love by the way (yes, I'm aware of
    its reputation!!). Abby


    I broke a few spokes on the rear (r550) after doing about 2000k so I
    had the wheel relaced with DT Swiss. Done 3000k since and there has
    been no movement at all. Anyway something to think about.

    That would be an ok solution 🙂

    OK, so if that would be an OK solution - are you saying that spoke
    quality is the problem with the Shimano wheels, rather than any issues
    with the hubs or rims...??

    Abby (btw - thanks for the tip, Dancier!!)

  19. Absent Husband said:
    Bleve said:
    Dancier said:

    Absent Husband Wrote:
    > Over the weekend, I noticed my rear wheel was slightly out of true, so
    > figured that I should pull out the old spoke key and have a fiddle...
    >
    > The rear is a Shimano r550, which I love by the way (yes, I'm aware of
    > its reputation!!). Abby
    I broke a few spokes on the rear (r550) after doing about 2000k so I
    had the wheel relaced with DT Swiss. Done 3000k since and there has
    been no movement at all. Anyway something to think about.

    That would be an ok solution 🙂

    OK, so if that would be an OK solution - are you saying that spoke
    quality is the problem with the Shimano wheels, rather than any issues
    with the hubs or rims...??

    I have no experience with this being done with these wheels, so I can't
    say. If it works for dancier, then maybe it's a workable hack.

    I *can* say that a set of good spokes and paying an LBS to do the job
    is not something that you'll get for free, and it will take a day or so
    to get done (depending on how the LBS builds wheels, some like to spend
    a few days doing it to allow the spokes to stretch, others think that's
    huey!)

  20. Absent Husband said:
    Bleve said:


    You actually *bought* a pair of them?!

    YES!!! They cost me $100. The r540 (front) is approx 2yo and had done
    about 8000km. The r550 (rear) is 1yo and had done roughly 2000km. I can
    still easily see the rim wear indicator on both, and the hubs spin
    smoothly & sweetly...

    But remember what I was coming from. The CXP22's were a whole heap of
    [censored]. Lots of spoke problems (I had to replace them once under warranty
    already!!). And I was truing the rear wheel once every month. They
    sucked big time.

    *nod*

    CXP22's are ok as a rim, if the wheel build is a bit shonky then ja ..

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Personal question time: what do you weigh?
    At my LBS, we sell a reasonable number of lowend roadies with these
    wheels on them, and generally suggest that riders greater than 80kg or
    so upgrade the wheels either at purchase-time or as soon as they start
    to break. If you're less than that, you might be ok though. That's
    been my experience with them anyway.

    I weigh 80kg's (down from about 90kg's 18 months ago... *grins*). So

    That's pretty good. You'll probably be ok on them. But, don't buy
    another set, ok? If/when you get another wheelset, keep the R550 rear
    to use on a spin trainer, they're good for that 🙂

    Quoted message said:

    whilst not the lightest rider in the bunch, hopefully not heavy enough
    to buckle any wheels (unless that sprint program you put me on swells
    my quads to triple-size!! *laughs*)

    Has that been working at all? Have you gained any speed on your
    downhill sprints?
    Are you QUADZILLA?!

    Quoted message said:

    At any rate, I'm on a povo cycling budget. Whilst I lust after bling,
    I'm riding an Orbea Enol using Sora running gear (with my s3xy Shimano
    wheels *laughs*). I'm eyeing off the 'new' 10sp 105 gruppo, and am
    saving up for that (whether it be onto my current frame, or a new bike)
    - but 2 kids, school fees, kids' gymnastics & swimming lessons, etc,
    etc, all have a much higher priority... 🙂

    what do kids go for these days? $5.99/kg? (cheaper than mushrooms
    .....)
    feed 'em up! There's your next bike!

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.