Ocr 0, 1

I myself was having the same choice, 0 or 1.
In the end the fact that the 0 has an ultegra groupset and 10sp compared to 9sp over the 1 decided it for me.
So 0 I went

I agree. Definitely go for 10 speed.

After 3 seasons, it's hardly 'new' technology any more, making anything 9 speed pretty much prehistoric equipment. Sad but true.

It's just a shame this bike doesn't have the Ultegra crankset (IMHO the best part of this great groupset)... Something for you to work towards, eh?

Enjoy your new machine and make sure your LBS at least makes an effort to set you up properly...

Stanners

Thanks guys. The OCR 1.0 comes with 105 10-speed though.
I want to know what sort of setup that I should expect with the new bike? I will order an Xs size, wouldn't it be sufficient to know the proper size?

http://www.giant-bicycle.com/au/030.000.000/030.010.000.asp?year=2006&model=10053 If you ask for the "XS" you will get the right size, 42cm seat tube, with 511mm top tube. 🙂 Good choice!!

Good question...

Sizing up a bike can be as simple as throwing your leg over and pedalling or as complex as spending a few hundred dollars with a professional to get you into the most comfortable/efficient position possible.

If you're just starting out, I'd focus on 3 basic things:

1. Seat height (easy to do - slight bend in knee when at 6 o'clock and no movement in the hips when spinning at a decent cadence)

2. Saddle fore/aft position (edge of knee over pedal axle when at 3 o'clock)

3. Handlebar position (may involve changing stems if your arms are disproportionately long or short in comparision to your body.

That should be plenty to get you comfy and enjoying your new beast! I only wish I was a 'pocket rocket' on on an XS frame!

Stanners77 said:

I agree. Definitely go for 10 speed.
It's just a shame this bike doesn't have the Ultegra crankset (IMHO the best part of this great groupset)...

Shimano don't make compact cranksets, hence the reason why none of the OCR's with the double chainring come with Shimano Cranks.

For $200, go for the OCR 0 with full ultegra. Though the 105 10speed groupset is very good too. The only thing lacking on the OCR is 'cheap' brakes, rather than Shimano, designed to keep the costs down. Still work alright though.

Take one for a ride. As I previously mentioned, Cyclerama has a plethora of these bikes in stock and on the floor (both OCR 0 and 1.0). They are also currently having a 20% off sale (pretty much storewide)

Actually Shimano do make a compact crankset. The R700. Its not part of any of their groupset, but is apparently Ultegra level.

I have a OCR comp with Ultegra group and Truvativ cranks. Cant see anything wrong with Truvativ cranks.

crankset/bottom bracketFSA Gossamer 10sp MegaExo crank/BB 34x50Tshifters/brake levers
Shimano 105 STI 20 spcassette
Shimano 105 10sp 12-25T

Giant keep their prices down by using these cranksets on this level bike, which is fair enough.

mysrh, going by your other thread from last week the gearing on the OCR 1[above specs]would suit you better than the 0 in fact as someone from last week tried to suggest a 48T front ring may suit you better.

Hi

Im having a nightmare deciding between a TCR T-mobile hybrid bike and the Giant SCR 1 or 2.

I just cant do it! The t-mobile i think is only nine speed. but everything else seems better....

😕

Albert 50 said:

crankset/bottom bracketFSA Gossamer 10sp MegaExo crank/BB 34x50Tshifters/brake levers
Shimano 105 STI 20 spcassette
Shimano 105 10sp 12-25T

Giant keep their prices down by using these cranksets on this level bike, which is fair enough.

mysrh, going by your other thread from last week the gearing on the OCR 1[above specs]would suit you better than the 0 in fact as someone from last week tried to suggest a 48T front ring may suit you better.

Albert's dead right. You don't want to get stuck with a gear ratio that doesn't suit you. If the shop won't let you test ride at least two different bikes, they don't deserve your business...

Good luck!

I think the gearing is ideal for mysrh as this is a first road bike after only riding a MTB. The 34t is low enough to enjoy local bike paths with the 12-25 will give quite a wide speed range. As Perth has few real hills, top gear, 50-12, will be far fast enough down any hill.

Besides, compared to the total cost of the bike, a spare cassette or two of a different range or a larger chainring or two is not really a cost issue. These will be personal preferences depending on the strength of the rider and the terrain encountered.

I have 12-25, 12-23, 13-23 cassettes, and 39 or 42 tooth middles, 30 or 26 tooth inners from which to choose and after reading similar topics on gearing, I am thinking of buying a 34 or 36 tooth inner for my tripple. 🙂

I am struggling to understand the whole numbers thing regarding gears.

I am trying to get my head round whether a Giant TCR hybrid or an SCR 1 better suits my needs as a commuter in london.

You have kindly already voted for the TCR, a few months back, but Im still unsure about it because im not sure if the TCR is too much of a racer.

No amount of pondering the different compoents makes it any clearer!

🙁

gclark8 said:

I think the gearing is ideal for mysrh as this is a first road bike after only riding a MTB. The 34t is low enough to enjoy local bike paths with the 12-25 will give quite a wide speed range. As Perth has few real hills, top gear, 50-12, will be far fast enough down any hill.

Besides, compared to the total cost of the bike, a spare cassette or two of a different range or a larger chainring or two is not really a cost issue. These will be personal preferences depending on the strength of the rider and the terrain encountered.

I have 12-25, 12-23, 13-23 cassettes, and 39 or 42 tooth middles, 30 or 26 tooth inners from which to choose and after reading similar topics on gearing, I am thinking of buying a 34 or 36 tooth inner for my tripple. 🙂

dandaman said:

I am struggling to understand the whole numbers thing regarding gears.

I am trying to get my head round whether a Giant TCR hybrid or an SCR 1 better suits my needs as a commuter in london.

You have kindly already voted for the TCR, a few months back, but Im still unsure about it because im not sure if the TCR is too much of a racer.

No amount of pondering the different compoents makes it any clearer!

🙁

Unfortunatley neither of these models is available down here in AUS so you may not get too much help from here. I saw a 2nd hand TCR Hybrid on the weekend (Bicycle Recycle in suburban Melbourne if anyone is interested) - IIRC it was ALU front end with carbon rear triangle. The difference between TCR and OCR geometry is quite small, but I'm sorry I can't comment on SCR.

roshea said:

Unfortunatley neither of these models is available down here in AUS so you may not get too much help from here. I saw a 2nd hand TCR Hybrid on the weekend (Bicycle Recycle in suburban Melbourne if anyone is interested) - IIRC it was ALU front end with carbon rear triangle. The difference between TCR and OCR geometry is quite small, but I'm sorry I can't comment on SCR.

ah, right! oops. im in the wrong thread area then arent i?! 🙄

The TCR im after has the carbon rear and forks and alu in between. sounds like the same bike....

Heya, me again..(what's new:o)
Just have a thought. Between TCR and OCR geometry, their measurement differs at racing prone position or comfort position. And as I rememberm the differences are in milimetre (mm). I also have heard that the TCR will exhaust my back more than the OCR.

My question: how a difference in mm can make such difference on my back?

And if I change the height of the saddle post and/or the distance of the saddle, if I own a TCR, will I get the same comfortable feeling?

mysrh said:

Heya, me again..(what's new:o)
Just have a thought. Between TCR and OCR geometry, their measurement differs at racing prone position or comfort position. And as I rememberm the differences are in milimetre (mm). I also have heard that the TCR will exhaust my back more than the OCR.

My question: how a difference in mm can make such difference on my back?

And if I change the height of the saddle post and/or the distance of the saddle, if I own a TCR, will I get the same comfortable feeling?

these are exactly the type of questions i am asking myself!!! I have ridden the TCR and its FAST, VERY FAST. The SCR is still much quicker than my mountain bike with slicks but not like the TCR. I havent ridden the OCR as they are fast disappearing fro stores...

I wanna get from A to B (with A about 6 miles from B) as fast as possible but in London I cant go that fast all the time so im not sure if its worth it?

having said that the TCR is only 30 pounds more expensive..... although i would have to buy pedals and shoes with it.....

where did you hear that the TCR would tire your back quicker?

mysrh said:

Heya, me again..(what's new:o)
Just have a thought. Between TCR and OCR geometry, their measurement differs at racing prone position or comfort position. And as I rememberm the differences are in milimetre (mm). I also have heard that the TCR will exhaust my back more than the OCR.

My question: how a difference in mm can make such difference on my back?

And if I change the height of the saddle post and/or the distance of the saddle, if I own a TCR, will I get the same comfortable feeling?

If you look at the Giant Websites for both bikes, the applications are stated there. The OCR is a Comfort Road Bike, the TCR is for Triathlon and Road Racing.
From: http://www.giant-bicycle.com/au/030.000.000/030.010.000.asp?year=2006

Quoted post said:

OCR 1
Our OCR 1 bike is designed for the rider who is serious about comfort and performance. As well the renowned comfort road features (like upright seating position, more stable geometry and shock damping forks and stays), the OCR 1 is very light! An ALUXX SL butted alloy front triangle, is mated to a light, responsive and forgiving full composite rear end for a fast, responsive and very smooth ride.

Quoted post said:

TCR 2
The TCR alloy range feature our Tour de France tested ALUXX SL frameset, full Shimano groupsets (including brakes, cranks and bottom brackets), Shimano wheels and Shimano clipless road pedals. For 2006 we're pleased to be able to offer the TCR 2 with the new 10 speed Shimano 105 groupset.

What is the end purpose of the bike? Buy what suits. Having said that, I would only suggest buying a Giant to someone who could neither afford nor appreciate a Felt. 🙄

gclark8 said:

I think the gearing is ideal for mysrh as this is a first road bike after only riding a MTB. The 34t is low enough to enjoy local bike paths with the 12-25 will give quite a wide speed range. As Perth has few real hills, top gear, 50-12, will be far fast enough down any hill.

Besides, compared to the total cost of the bike, a spare cassette or two of a different range or a larger chainring or two is not really a cost issue. These will be personal preferences depending on the strength of the rider and the terrain encountered.

I have 12-25, 12-23, 13-23 cassettes, and 39 or 42 tooth middles, 30 or 26 tooth inners from which to choose and after reading similar topics on gearing, I am thinking of buying a 34 or 36 tooth inner for my tripple. 🙂

I agree with George. It is cheap to replace gearing that does not work according to your needs as you become more aware of them and become more experienced, but if you don't get the bike that fits, you are looking at replacing the bike!

Get the bike that fits!

AND suits the riding style you intend as per George's post about purposes bikes are made for!

Remember you don't have the luxury of a lot of choice (like these other guys do) because of your small stature!

mysrh said:

Heya, me again..(what's new:o)
Just have a thought. Between TCR and OCR geometry, their measurement differs at racing prone position or comfort position. And as I rememberm the differences are in milimetre (mm). I also have heard that the TCR will exhaust my back more than the OCR.

You may not feel any different when sitting on a bike that is just 'standing' but the difference will let know itself on longer rides. On a 2hr ride millimeters DO matter. I just had a look - the difference in head-tube length is 18 mm (XS size) btw TCR and OCR. That is a lot - that is equivalent to a difference btw frame sizes!

mysrh said:

My question: how a difference in mm can make such difference on my back?

Fatigue - if you reach your flexibility limit, you can stand it for few seconds, maybe minutes, but not hours. Pushing yourself to the limit will only cause injury from overuse. Those millimeters can mean the difference between enjoyment on the bike and a physio-therapy off the bike. If the bike does not fit, then it will never feel good on a loger ride. Fit is the most important criteria you should use when choosing a new bike.

mysrh said:

And if I change the height of the saddle post and/or the distance of the saddle, if I own a TCR, will I get the same comfortable feeling?

To a certain degree you can tweak any bike. But really, why thinking of tweaking TCR into OCR? That just defies the purpose of having two different geometries. TCR feels fast, because it is meant to be ridden hard and fast. It forces you to lean forward more, so your mind wants to pedal harder. OCR is sligthly more upright (an maybe longer wheelbase?) so it will feel more easy, more stable. You have to choose - if you intend to be a sprinter, then TCR may be the way to go. If you just want to ride, then OCR will be a better bet.
And remember, it is always difficult to give advice just by reading a forum, you should really find someone who has some experience in bike-fitting and talk to them in person. It is a bit of a black-art thing....