Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Gearing advice, please

Started by Daniel B. Martin · · Last activity · 20 posts · 551 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
18 April 2006
Last activity
21 April 2006
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Daniel B. Martin
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  1. Hello.

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.

    Please advise what I should change. If possible, give specific
    make/model of parts. I hope to keep the cost of these changes
    reasonable by replacing the cassette and rear derailleur *or* the
    crankset and front derailleur, but will change both if necessary.

    Is it realistic to install a 9-speed cassette (with derailleur and
    chain) and expect it to work right with the factory crankset and derailleur?

    Before anyone says "Dude, if you need low gears you should have
    bought a mountain bike" please understand this: the bike was a gift,
    and you don't look a gift bike in the gears!

    Daniel B. Martin

  2. put an XT derailleur on and a 12-34 cassette
    My bike shop did this for me.
    Its called alpine gearing

    I am a beginner and live in the mountains, without the 34 rear I couldn't
    make most
    of the hills around my house.

    "Daniel B. Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hello.

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.

    Please advise what I should change. If possible, give specific
    make/model of parts. I hope to keep the cost of these changes
    reasonable by replacing the cassette and rear derailleur *or* the
    crankset and front derailleur, but will change both if necessary.

    Is it realistic to install a 9-speed cassette (with derailleur and
    chain) and expect it to work right with the factory crankset and
    derailleur?

    Before anyone says "Dude, if you need low gears you should have
    bought a mountain bike" please understand this: the bike was a gift,
    and you don't look a gift bike in the gears!

    Daniel B. Martin

  3. "Daniel B. Martin" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hello.

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.

    Please advise what I should change. If possible, give specific
    make/model of parts. I hope to keep the cost of these changes
    reasonable by replacing the cassette and rear derailleur *or* the
    crankset and front derailleur, but will change both if necessary.

    Is it realistic to install a 9-speed cassette (with derailleur and
    chain) and expect it to work right with the factory crankset and
    derailleur?

    RD would be fine as-is (Tiagras actually say "9-speed" on them) but your
    Sora brifters are 8-speed. You'd need to replace them, too. Your crank & FD
    can't tell the difference between 8 & 9 speed.

    Quoted message said:


    Before anyone says "Dude, if you need low gears you should have
    bought a mountain bike" please understand this: the bike was a gift,
    and you don't look a gift bike in the gears!

    Nice gift!

    I'd recommend swapping the 30-tooth ring for a 28. A 26 MIGHT work, but the
    chain might drag on the bottom of the FD.

    Nice thing about 8-speed systems is that you can still get cassettes with 28
    & 30 tooth big cogs. A 32 would probably require a MTB RD.

    I'd get like an 11-30 8-speed cassette (SRAM makes them) with a 28t granny
    ring. Get a new SRAM PC48 or 58 chain, 'cause your current one is too short
    for the new big/big, then tighten down the B-tension screw on the RD hanger
    so the big cog doesn't rub the pulley and you're good to go.

    Good luck!

  4. "Ralph" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:44457545$0$33393$bb4e3ad8
    @newscene.com:

    Quoted message said:

    put an XT derailleur on and a 12-34 cassette
    My bike shop did this for me.
    Its called alpine gearing

    Is that what people are calling "alpine gearing" these days? Back when I
    started bicycling, "alpine gearing" was a 42-52 crankset and 13-25 5-speed
    freewheel.

    What you have is called "pie plate gearing" or "great-grandmother gearing".

  5. thats the term the bike shop used

    "Sally" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Ralph" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:44457545$0$33393$bb4e3ad8
    @newscene.com:

    Quoted message said:

    put an XT derailleur on and a 12-34 cassette
    My bike shop did this for me.
    Its called alpine gearing

    Is that what people are calling "alpine gearing" these days? Back when I
    started bicycling, "alpine gearing" was a 42-52 crankset and 13-25 5-speed
    freewheel.

    What you have is called "pie plate gearing" or "great-grandmother
    gearing".

  6. Daniel B. Martin said:

    Hello.

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.

    Please advise what I should change. If possible, give specific
    make/model of parts. I hope to keep the cost of these changes
    reasonable by replacing the cassette and rear derailleur *or* the
    crankset and front derailleur, but will change both if necessary.

    If you feel that the gearing is not terribly far off now, and just
    needs approximately the increment of one or two lower gears below the
    lowest currently present, then I'd swap the cassette to an 11/30 HG70
    (or a 12/32 XTR if you can find it or a numerically equivalent SRAM
    cassette) and see if the Tiagra will shift it. Adjusting the
    B-tension should help. You'll almost certainly need to add a couple
    of links to the chain (if the chain has a significant number of miles
    on it, just replace it altogether) before you'll be able to ride it,
    but if you test the shifting with the chain on the middle ring up
    front, you can at least establish if the rear der is going to handle
    the bigger rear sprocket gracefully. I suspect that it will with a
    30; not so sure about 32. If the Tiagra won't shift well with the 30
    or 32 sprocket, then replace the rear der with any of Shimano's
    reasonably recent long-cage derailleurs; one from a mountain bike will
    even work. Spend only as much as you're comfortable with; once you
    get above about $40 for a rear der, the performance differences become
    minimal in my opinion.

    If you need gearing that's *lots* lower, and you *don't* need or use
    the high gears at all, then swap out the crankset to a compact triple
    with something like 44/34/24 gearing and swap the cassette to an
    11/28. As long as the fder is a clamp-on unit (not mounted on a tab
    that's welded in place), you can probably just reposition the front
    der to work with the smaller sprockets, but you may have to replace
    the bottom bracket in order to match the requirements of the new
    cranks.

    Quoted message said:

    Is it realistic to install a 9-speed cassette (with derailleur and
    chain) and expect it to work right with the factory crankset and derailleur?

    Yes, but you'll need the 9-speed shifter to go with them unless you're
    using a friction shifter now.

    Quoted message said:

    Before anyone says "Dude, if you need low gears you should have
    bought a mountain bike" please understand this: the bike was a gift,
    and you don't look a gift bike in the gears!

    Indeed! But I wouldn't overspend on getting it into a more useful
    configuration, either.
    --
    Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
    Some gardening required to reply via email.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  7. Daniel B. Martin said:

    Hello.

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.


    One question: Do you ever feel the need for the 52/12?

    Quoted message said:

    Please advise what I should change. If possible, give specific
    make/model of parts. I hope to keep the cost of these changes
    reasonable by replacing the cassette and rear derailleur *or* the
    crankset and front derailleur, but will change both if necessary.

    Is it realistic to install a 9-speed cassette (with derailleur and
    chain) and expect it to work right with the factory crankset and derailleur?


    It will work with the cranks, but not with the shifter. Expensive part,
    the STI shifter.

    My recommendation would be to get a mountain-bike crankset. These can be
    had for well under $100, and will typically come with a 46/36/24 or even
    smaller chainrings. This would give a lower bottom gear than the
    megarange cassette someone else suggested, and allows you to keep the nice
    moderate spacing between gears.

    If you don't have a desire to keep the really big, manly-man 52/12 and
    52/13 gears, this will meet your needs. It meets mine.

    With some adjustment, the front derailleur should work fine. Replacing it
    with a (shimano) mountain-bike derailleur is not an option, since the
    cable pull per shift is different, and so the left STI shifter will not
    work. But the stock derailleur should work fine.

    I use a double, but with 46/30 cranks (really a mountain bike triple with
    granny left off). Works perfectly for my needs, and knees.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | Become MicroSoft-free forever. Ask me how.
    _`\(,_ |
    (_)/ (_) |

  8. Daniel B. Martin said:

    Hello.

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.

    Please advise what I should change.

    Change the 30T chainring for a 26T and see how it shifts. This is
    really cheap (under $10 on ebay for a new ring), plus a bit of labor, or
    buy a crank puller (again under $10) and a 5mm allen key (plus a 14 or
    15mm socket wrench).

    If it shifts OK without dragging the chain on the frame (too much chain
    slack for the r. Der to take up), you will have approx. the equivalent
    of two more "steps" lower in your gearing. (I'm estimating what the
    "steps" are in your 2-3 lowest gears right now.) If it doesn't work,
    you're out very little (and I bet it can be made to work).

    Mark

  9. Daniel B. Martin said:

    Hello.

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.

    Please advise what I should change. If possible, give specific
    make/model of parts.

    The easiest/cheapest way (IMO, of course):

    Buy something like an 11-30T cassette, these are pretty easy to find at
    a low price (e.g., Loose Screws has a Shimano HG50 11-30 for $20). You
    didn't specify your freehub, but it probably won't accept the 11T first
    cog, so just use the 12T from your existing cassette.

    If you are willing to get a little more "involved", you can turn the
    two cassettes into loose cogs and spacers. This will allow you to make
    a "custom cassette" of your choice (e.g., either a
    12-13-15-17-19-21-23-30 or a 12-13-15-17-19-21-25-30) and will give you
    some spares (13, 15, 17) when the cogs wear down.

    All this will give you a "27 inch" low gear, which is plenty low for
    most applications. If you want to go even lower, buy a 26T 74mm BCD
    chainwheel, and put it in place of the 30t you have now. This will give
    you a super-low "23 inch" low gear. Be aware, however, that this will
    make your front shifting more fussy than it is now, so give the new
    cassette a good chance before you take that step. A "chainwatcher" is
    probably a good idea, too, if you do this.

    Quoted message said:

    I hope to keep the cost of these changes
    reasonable by replacing the cassette and rear derailleur *or* the
    crankset and front derailleur, but will change both if necessary.

    Is it realistic to install a 9-speed cassette (with derailleur and
    chain) and expect it to work right with the factory crankset and derailleur?

    Before anyone says "Dude, if you need low gears you should have
    bought a mountain bike" please understand this: the bike was a gift,
    and you don't look a gift bike in the gears!

    Daniel B. Martin

  10. Daniel B. Martin said:

    Hello.

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.

    Please advise what I should change. If possible, give specific
    make/model of parts. I hope to keep the cost of these changes
    reasonable by replacing the cassette and rear derailleur *or* the
    crankset and front derailleur, but will change both if necessary.

    Is it realistic to install a 9-speed cassette (with derailleur and
    chain) and expect it to work right with the factory crankset and derailleur?

    Before anyone says "Dude, if you need low gears you should have
    bought a mountain bike" please understand this: the bike was a gift,
    and you don't look a gift bike in the gears!

    Daniel B. Martin

    To summarize all of the suggestions in order of which to do first.

    1. 24 tooth inner chainring. 74mm bolt circle diameter. $10 and
    knowledge, tools, friends to pull the crank and change inner ring and
    put the crank back on. 10 minute job at most.

    2a. Slightly bigger rear cassette. $20 for 12-28 from Nashbar, 8
    speed. Or $14 for 11-28 8 speed from Performance Bike. Works
    perfectly with current rear derailleur. Tools, knowledge, friends to
    pull old cassette and install new cassette. New 8 speed chain too.
    $10 at Nashbar. Need slightly longer chain to wrap around the bigger
    28 cog. Tools, knowledge, etc. 10 minutes total to do the cassette
    change and chain change.

    2b. Instead of 2a, 2b is a much bigger 8 speed cassette. $14 for
    12-32 from Performance Bike, 8 speed cassette. New 8 speed chain
    needed for bigger cog. $10 or so. $30 new Shimano Deore rear
    derailleur from Performance to shift onto the bigger 32 cog. Most
    likely the Tiagra rear derailleur will not clear the 32 tooth cog. 20
    minute job for this since you have to change the rear derailleur and
    get it to index properly.

    Changing the crankset to a mountain bike crankset is not recommended
    due to the cost. Mountain bike cranksets come with 22 tooth inner
    chainrings. Not much different than the 24 tooth inner chainring your
    crank can accept in step 1. But mountain bike cranksets are much more
    expensive than inner chainrings. Nashbar's cheap mountain bike
    crankset is $45. 24 tooth inner chainring should be $10 or less.
    Crankset takes a square taper bottom bracket so will likely fit fine
    with your current bottom bracket. If you need lower gears once you
    have a 22 or 24 tooth inner chainring, you then have to go to steps 2a
    or 2b.

    If you're really needing lots lower gears and having to pay a shop to
    do the work, it might make sense to do steps 1 and 2b all at once.
    Labor shoudl be cheaper since its all part of the same job. And you
    will end up with pretty much the lowest gears you can get.

  11. Mark Janeba said:

    Change the 30T chainring for a 26T and see how it shifts. This is
    really cheap (under $10 on ebay for a new ring), plus a bit of labor, or
    buy a crank puller (again under $10) and a 5mm allen key (plus a 14 or
    15mm socket wrench).

    If it shifts OK without dragging the chain on the frame (too much chain
    slack for the r. Der to take up), you will have approx. the equivalent
    of two more "steps" lower in your gearing. (I'm estimating what the
    "steps" are in your 2-3 lowest gears right now.) If it doesn't work,
    you're out very little (and I bet it can be made to work).

    Mark

    Mark, thank you for your constructive suggestions. I already have good
    tools, mostly made by Park Bicycle Company. I've done my own bike
    repairs for years, but all of this experience is on older technology.
    Click shifters and cassettes are all new to me.

    Today I attempted to remove the crankset, without success. I used an
    8mm hex key to remove the cap bolt. It was much tighter than expected,
    apparently because the factory used a sealant on the bolt threads. I
    carefully installed the Park crank puller tool and applied all the force
    I dared, but the expected "pop" didn't happen.

    I've pulled cranks many times in the past, never had a bit of trouble.
    This one won't budge so I must ask for advice before proceeding. Is
    there some sort of retainer on new cranks that I'm not seeing? I don't
    see any snap ring, C-clip, etc. It appears to have the same square
    cross-section tapered bottom bracket axle as on my older bikes.

    Shall I apply brute force? Use WD-40? Tighten the crank puller and
    then hit it with a hammer to shock the taper fit loose? (Nix on the
    torch!)

    Daniel B. Martin

  12. [email hidden] wrote:

    Thank you Russell, and others, for useful guidance.

    Quoted message said:

    1. 24 tooth inner chainring. 74mm bolt circle diameter. $10 and
    knowledge, tools, friends to pull the crank and change inner ring and
    put the crank back on. 10 minute job at most.


    I'm unable to pull the crank. Yes, it *should* be a ten-minute job.
    See my post of 11:06am today. I have a few unused chainrings on hand
    from my older road bikes. Will the teeth fit my new 8-speed chain?

    Quoted message said:

    2b. Instead of 2a, 2b is a much bigger 8 speed cassette. $14 for
    12-32 from Performance Bike, 8 speed cassette. New 8 speed chain
    needed for bigger cog. $10 or so. $30 new Shimano Deore rear
    derailleur from Performance to shift onto the bigger 32 cog. Most
    likely the Tiagra rear derailleur will not clear the 32 tooth cog. 20
    minute job for this since you have to change the rear derailleur and
    get it to index properly.


    12x32 cassette already purchased. Shimano Deore rear derailleur
    already purchased. New chain will be purchased. Click shifters are
    unfamiliar to me. Please point to a web site (or other information
    source) which gives instructions to "get it to index properly."

    Quoted message said:

    If you're really needing lots lower gears and having to pay a shop to
    do the work, it might make sense to do steps 1 and 2b all at once.
    Labor shoudl be cheaper since its all part of the same job. And you
    will end up with pretty much the lowest gears you can get.


    I'll do the work. I have good tools and, for me, the "wrenching" is
    part of the hobby.

    Daniel B. Martin

  13. Daniel B. Martin said:

    [email hidden] wrote:

    Thank you Russell, and others, for useful guidance.

    Quoted message said:

    1. 24 tooth inner chainring. 74mm bolt circle diameter. $10 and
    knowledge, tools, friends to pull the crank and change inner ring and
    put the crank back on. 10 minute job at most.


    I'm unable to pull the crank. Yes, it *should* be a ten-minute job.
    See my post of 11:06am today. I have a few unused chainrings on hand
    from my older road bikes. Will the teeth fit my new 8-speed chain?

    Make sure there is not a washer inside the crank arm recess. If your
    crank puller is pushing against this washer, then it won't come off.
    You said you checked for c clips, etc., but check again. Otherwise,
    screw the puller into the threads as far as it will go. Screw it in
    tight. And then get a longer wrench for more leverage.

    If your unused chainrings are 74mm bolt circle diameter, then they will
    fit fine. 8 speed chain is not too narrow so it will easily go over
    any rings made for 5 speed or more.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    2b. Instead of 2a, 2b is a much bigger 8 speed cassette. $14 for
    12-32 from Performance Bike, 8 speed cassette. New 8 speed chain
    needed for bigger cog. $10 or so. $30 new Shimano Deore rear
    derailleur from Performance to shift onto the bigger 32 cog. Most
    likely the Tiagra rear derailleur will not clear the 32 tooth cog. 20
    minute job for this since you have to change the rear derailleur and
    get it to index properly.


    12x32 cassette already purchased. Shimano Deore rear derailleur
    already purchased. New chain will be purchased. Click shifters are
    unfamiliar to me. Please point to a web site (or other information
    source) which gives instructions to "get it to index properly."

    If you have the new Deore deraileur and 12-32 cassette, then you might
    not need to change the inner chainring and pull the crank off. So put
    the new cassette and derailleur and chain on and see if the gearing is
    good. Then decide if its worth possibly destroying the crank with
    brute force getting it off. Your new low gear will be 30x32, roughly
    25 gear inches with 700C wheels. Fairly low. Maybe not worth
    monkeying with changing the inner chainring. Eventually you will want
    to pull the cranks to replace the bottom bracket, clean the rings, etc.
    But maybe wait a few years to worry about this.

    Not much to getting index shifters to work right. Set the upper and
    lower limit screws on the rear derailleur like any rear derailleur.
    Turn the rear adjusting bolt on the rear derailleur out about half way
    so you can adjust the cable tension looser or tighter, depending on
    what is needed. Turn the B screw in as far as possible to start with
    so it clears the biggest cog. Shift the right lever into the smallest
    cog position. Pull the cable tight and bolt it to the rear derailleur.
    Then shift the right lever through the gears and see if the chain rubs
    the sides of the cogs. Then turn the cable adjustment bolt on the rear
    derailleur to loosen or tighten the cable tension to keep the chain
    from rubbing.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    If you're really needing lots lower gears and having to pay a shop to
    do the work, it might make sense to do steps 1 and 2b all at once.
    Labor shoudl be cheaper since its all part of the same job. And you
    will end up with pretty much the lowest gears you can get.


    I'll do the work. I have good tools and, for me, the "wrenching" is
    part of the hobby.

    Daniel B. Martin

  14. Daniel B. Martin said:

    I have a new road bike, a Specialized Sequoia. It has:
    Crankset Sugino Comp
    Chainwheel 52/42/30
    Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra
    Rear Cogs Shimano HG-50, 8-speed: 12-25
    Shifters Shimano Sora STI

    I like the bike but find it necessary to change the gearing.
    I need really low gears for my slow-up-the-hills riding style.

    Please advise what I should change. If possible, give specific
    make/model of parts. I hope to keep the cost of these changes
    reasonable by replacing the cassette and rear derailleur *or* the
    crankset and front derailleur, but will change both if necessary.

    Is it realistic to install a 9-speed cassette (with derailleur and
    chain) and expect it to work right with the factory crankset and derailleur?

    Before anyone says "Dude, if you need low gears you should have
    bought a mountain bike" please understand this: the bike was a gift,
    and you don't look a gift bike in the gears!

    I'd put on an 8 speed HG-30 11-32 cassette (8 euros 50 at Rose) and see
    where that'd get me, and if the derailleur *really* couldn't handle the 32
    I'd put on a E9,90 Acera or E18.50 Alivio derailer. Don't be too snobbish
    for the Acera, I'd say, especially with Sora shifters on the bike to start
    with (which are that same quality level in Road rather than MTB).

    You could (again, at the expense of some compromised shifting,
    particularly under load, due to the ramps not lining up any more) also use
    some cogs from the 11-32 in combo with some from your 12-25 to make a
    cassette that's even better for you (I think HG50 and HG30 8s are almost
    certainly all loose cogs, possibly, after removing a rivet or three).

    12-13-15-17-19-21-23-25 and
    11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32

    Okay, you probably don't need the 11 since you want lower gears rather
    than higher, and depending on whether you can get the 32 to work you might
    want to go: 12-13-15-18-21-24-28-32 or 12-13-15-18-21-23-25-28 -- the
    first one is just replacing the starting 11 with the 12, which should
    compromise shifting not at all, and might be necessary in any case if the
    cassette body is not a Compact type.

    I suspect that the rear der actually gets pretty close to the 32 -- both
    long and short cage current Tiagra derailers are conservatively specced
    at a max cog size of 27, with a total capacity of 29 and 37 respectively,
    and since it's a triple it's probably the long cage one. At the expense of
    not quite as good shifting, you can probably make the 27 versus 32
    disconnect work, and the 43 verus 37 teeth capacity difference is only
    really relevant in small/small which you shouldn't be riding anyway.

    Going to 9s is not really cheap or cheerful and should probably be avoided
    (unless you're doing the entire bike up just keeping the frame), and
    getting a new crank is something that I think is probably not necessary.
    Although even that can be done rather cheaply, an Alivio crank is in the
    20s and you can probably reuse the existing BB and with a little bit of
    luck the existing front derailer.

    Jasper

  15. "Sally" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "Ralph" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:44457545$0$33393$bb4e3ad8
    @newscene.com:

    Quoted message said:

    put an XT derailleur on and a 12-34 cassette
    My bike shop did this for me.
    Its called alpine gearing

    Is that what people are calling "alpine gearing" these days? Back when I
    started bicycling, "alpine gearing" was a 42-52 crankset and 13-25 5-speed
    freewheel.


    Pshaw...my Stronglight 93 came as 52-45!

  16. "Hank Wirtz" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:SLP1g.24$Wx4.6008
    @news.uswest.net:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Is that what people are calling "alpine gearing" these days? Back when I
    started bicycling, "alpine gearing" was a 42-52 crankset and 13-25 5-speed
    freewheel.


    Pshaw...my Stronglight 93 came as 52-45!

    I remember 52-45 being called half-step gearing. 52-42 was alpine gearing.

  17. Daniel B. Martin said:


    Today I attempted to remove the crankset, without success. I used an
    8mm hex key to remove the cap bolt. It was much tighter than expected,
    apparently because the factory used a sealant on the bolt threads. I
    carefully installed the Park crank puller tool and applied all the force
    I dared, but the expected "pop" didn't happen.

    A follow-up post...

    I resumed efforts to remove the drive side crank, using WD-40 and more
    force. I failed, and broke the crank puller in the attempt. Broke
    the handle right off. Park Tool Company has a limited lifetime
    warranty on their products so I mailed off the broken unit and hope they
    see fit to replace it.

    This is a new bike so I rode it to the dealer. They popped the cranks
    and reinstalled them, tightened to the factory spec. Removing the
    drive side crank took *two* young strong men and they used a "cheater"
    (a pipe extension) on the handle of the crank extractor. One of them
    remarked "the factory puts some of them on kinda tight."

    Daniel B. Martin

  18. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Ken said:

    "Hank Wirtz" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:SLP1g.24$Wx4.6008
    @news.uswest.net:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Is that what people are calling "alpine gearing" these days? Back when I
    started bicycling, "alpine gearing" was a 42-52 crankset and 13-25 5-speed
    freewheel.


    Pshaw...my Stronglight 93 came as 52-45!

    I remember 52-45 being called half-step gearing. 52-42 was alpine gearing.

    Thirty and forty years ago tourists were running 24 tooth
    chain wheels.

    --
    Michael Press

  19. Michael Press <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    Thirty and forty years ago tourists were running 24 tooth
    chain wheels.

    Yes, but that was called "granny gearing", not "alpine gearing".

  20. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Ken said:

    Michael Press <[email hidden]> wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:

    Thirty and forty years ago tourists were running 24 tooth
    chain wheels.

    Yes, but that was called "granny gearing", not "alpine gearing".

    Noted.

    --
    Michael Press

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