Torque wrenches

Per KnowWhen2HoldemKnowWhen2Foldem:

Quoted message said:

The TW-2 goes from 0-600 inch pounds and seems like fine
tuning at 70-80 inch pounds might be too hard to achieve. Any suggestions?

I like having two. The little one goes from zero to something like 14 inch
pounds and the big one goes somewhere beyond 50 nm.
--
PeteCresswell

Per (PeteCresswell):

Quoted message said:

14 inch

oops... shb 140
--
PeteCresswell

KnowWhen2HoldemKnowWhen2Foldem said:

I don't have a torque wrench and I had to make a few adjustments on my
carbon frame to my:
1) carbon seat post height - it kept slipping until I tightened it to a
point where it stopped slipping. I am concerned that it is over the
specification. Will it turn up with problems over time or can I be assured
if it didn't do damage to the seat tube immediately, it won't develop in
future
2) clamp on derailleur which was too high so I lowered it to the proper
height. I counted the turns to loosen the clamp on the seat tube to use
when I tightened it back. However, since I do not trust that the guys who
put this together at the LBS used a torque wrench, I have the same question
for the derailleur clamp as I have for the seat post clamp. There are no
current problems but it the clamp was pretty tight and made me nervous. Any
ongoing risk at this point to damage over time?

BTW, does anyone have a good recommendation for a torque wrench. The Park
TW-1 only goes from 0-60 inch pounds while I have some specs for 80 to 90
inch pounds. The TW-2 goes from 0-600 inch pounds and seems like fine
tuning at 70-80 inch pounds might be too hard to achieve. Any suggestions?

Hi, check out Sears, they may have a Craftsman model that will work
for you. I use a Craftsman that I have had for the last 30 years.

Life is Good!
Jeff

Jeff Starr <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Hi, check out Sears, they may have a Craftsman model that will work
for you. I use a Craftsman that I have had for the last 30 years.

The Sears Craftsman torque wrenches look identical to the ones sold by Park,
except that Sears charges 30% less.

Ken said:

The Sears Craftsman torque wrenches look identical to the ones sold by Park,
except that Sears charges 30% less.

Forget both of those, this is what REAL mechanics use:

http://sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html

--
K.

Ken said:

Jeff Starr <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Hi, check out Sears, they may have a Craftsman model that will work
for you. I use a Craftsman that I have had for the last 30 years.

The Sears Craftsman torque wrenches look identical to the ones sold by Park,
except that Sears charges 30% less.

Does sears carry the smaller one like the tw-1? I have looked, but have
been unable to locate this one.

-nate

"Llatikcuf" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Does sears carry the smaller one like the tw-1? I have looked, but have
been unable to locate this one.

They used to. I haven't looked recently.

If you can make an "extension" for the 60 inch-lb torque wrench, it can be
made to cover a higher range. One way to do this would be to alter a
socket/ratchet extension so it places the socket a known distance beyond the
end of the torque wrench. Then multiply all readings by the ratio of the
combined length (extension + torque wrench) to the original torque wrench
length.

Király said:

Ken said:

The Sears Craftsman torque wrenches look identical to the ones sold by Park,
except that Sears charges 30% less.

Forget both of those, this is what REAL mechanics use:

http://sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html

--

Hah! Torque wrenches and all those other fancy tools are put near the
front of the shop to impress the customers. Here's what is really used,
out back, behind the scenes where the real work gets done:

http://tinyurl.com/k7ogp

;-)

Ozark Bicycle said:

Király said:

Ken said:

The Sears Craftsman torque wrenches look identical to the ones sold
by Park, except that Sears charges 30% less.

Forget both of those, this is what REAL mechanics use:

http://sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html

--

Hah! Torque wrenches and all those other fancy tools are put near the
front of the shop to impress the customers. Here's what is really
used, out back, behind the scenes where the real work gets done:

http://tinyurl.com/k7ogp

My former bike-shop-owner friend gives me MUCH grief over my use of a pipe
wrench when installing/removing bottom brackets.

Naturally, it's an old, rusty, falling apart one at that.

BS (not)

Sorni said:

Ozark Bicycle said:

Király said:

Ken <[email hidden]> wrote:
> The Sears Craftsman torque wrenches look identical to the ones sold
> by Park, except that Sears charges 30% less.

Forget both of those, this is what REAL mechanics use:

http://sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html

--

Hah! Torque wrenches and all those other fancy tools are put near the
front of the shop to impress the customers. Here's what is really
used, out back, behind the scenes where the real work gets done:

http://tinyurl.com/k7ogp

My former bike-shop-owner friend gives me MUCH grief over my use of a pipe
wrench when installing/removing bottom brackets.

Naturally, it's an old, rusty, falling apart one at that.

BS (not)

I forgot to include a picture of the "big monkey", which is used to
"persuade" even the most recalcitrant fixed cups. ;-)

Sorni said:

My former bike-shop-owner friend gives me MUCH grief over my use of a pipe
wrench when installing/removing bottom brackets.

Naturally, it's an old, rusty, falling apart one at that.

Of course it's old and rusty. Otherwise you could not count on it to
slip and ruin the cups (ahem... I've never done that :-)

Still wondering about anyone's experience or opinions as to the risks in #1
and #2.

"KnowWhen2HoldemKnowWhen2Foldem"
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:Yb_%f.286$PL2.190@dukeread03...

Quoted message said:

I don't have a torque wrench and I had to make a few adjustments on my
carbon frame to my:
1) carbon seat post height - it kept slipping until I tightened it to a
point where it stopped slipping. I am concerned that it is over the
specification. Will it turn up with problems over time or can I be
assured if it didn't do damage to the seat tube immediately, it won't
develop in future
2) clamp on derailleur which was too high so I lowered it to the proper
height. I counted the turns to loosen the clamp on the seat tube to use
when I tightened it back. However, since I do not trust that the guys who
put this together at the LBS used a torque wrench, I have the same
question for the derailleur clamp as I have for the seat post clamp.
There are no current problems but it the clamp was pretty tight and made
me nervous. Any ongoing risk at this point to damage over time?

BTW, does anyone have a good recommendation for a torque wrench. The Park
TW-1 only goes from 0-60 inch pounds while I have some specs for 80 to 90
inch pounds. The TW-2 goes from 0-600 inch pounds and seems like fine
tuning at 70-80 inch pounds might be too hard to achieve. Any
suggestions?

In article <[email hidden]>,

Bob said:

Sorni said:

My former bike-shop-owner friend gives me MUCH grief over my use of a pipe
wrench when installing/removing bottom brackets.

Naturally, it's an old, rusty, falling apart one at that.

Of course it's old and rusty. Otherwise you could not count on it to
slip and ruin the cups (ahem... I've never done that :-)

I have _never_ used a stillson wrench to remove a bottom
bracket. However I have used one as a chain whip.

--
Michael Press

During the San Jose time trial stage of the recent Tour of California, I had
a chance to chat for quite a while with the Discovery team mechanic (Jeff?)
as he was working on Ekimov's bike. When I asked him if he ever used a
torque wrench, he shook his head, held up his hand and said "THIS is a
torque wrench". Of course, he's probably got a bit more experience about
these things than most of us...

Brian Phillips said:

During the San Jose time trial stage of the recent Tour of California, I had
a chance to chat for quite a while with the Discovery team mechanic (Jeff?)
as he was working on Ekimov's bike. When I asked him if he ever used a
torque wrench, he shook his head, held up his hand and said "THIS is a
torque wrench". Of course, he's probably got a bit more experience about
these things than most of us...

I agree with his technique, although I notably have less bicycle
tightening experience, but maybe as much wrenching experience,
compared to a lot of people here. If you are talking about tightening
spark plugs into an aluminum engine head - then use a torque wrench.
If you are talking about tightening head bolts and both compressing a
gasket and physically stretching the bolts - then use a torque
wrench. Tightening the front strut mount bolts that I know you really,
really, don't want coming loose on your car at 75mph - use a torque
wrench.

If you are talking about the majority of bolts on a bicycle, use your
hand. Most of them are just tight, non compressible, non lock
washered, non gasketed surfaces. Just tighten them appropriately and
be done with it. I make exceptions for cranks with square tapers that
have a stretch component to the fastening process and anything
compressible, carbon, or with alloy fasteners if you are squeamish.
Most of the stuff? Just tighten the damn thing and more on

Exception noted if you are "in the business" - a TW is good lawsuit
insurance.

Bob
(who owns two accurate torque wrenches but knows life is short).