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Help removing 1988 Croce D'Aune crank

Started by Tim Lines · · Last activity · 28 posts · 1,737 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
20 February 2006
Last activity
23 February 2006
Original author
Tim Lines
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28
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  1. I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I should
    use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I tried that
    for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing damage. There's
    got to be a better way.

    A really BAD picture of what I'm talking about is here:
    http://home.comcast.net/~lines_tim/crank.JPG

    Please reply to linest253 _at_ yah00 -dot- com

  2. Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I should
    use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I tried that
    for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing damage. There's
    got to be a better way.

    A really BAD picture of what I'm talking about is here:
    http://home.comcast.net/~lines_tim/crank.JPG

    Please reply to linest253 _at_ yah00 -dot- com

    Can't tell from the picture but it looks sort of like a Sugino Autex
    self-extractor or some other type of self-extractor. It doesn't say
    Sugino or anything on it right?

    Have you or the shop tried any/all of the adjustable pin spanners? If
    you can't find one that works, you could probably grind a set of of pin
    spanner replacement pins to work or something similar.

  3. Nate Knutson said:
    Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I should
    use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I tried that
    for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing damage. There's
    got to be a better way.

    A really BAD picture of what I'm talking about is here:
    http://home.comcast.net/~lines_tim/crank.JPG

    Please reply to linest253 _at_ yah00 -dot- com

    Can't tell from the picture but it looks sort of like a Sugino Autex
    self-extractor or some other type of self-extractor. It doesn't say
    Sugino or anything on it right?

    No, this is Campagnolo. Aside from that detail, I'll bet you're right.
    It's got to be self extracting. I just didn't consider that after the
    bike shop couldn't get them off and they gave me their explanation.

    I should have caught that. And I should stay out of that bike shop on
    Mondays since Monday is the owners' day off.

  4. Tim Lines said:

    No, this is Campagnolo. Aside from that detail, I'll bet you're right.
    It's got to be self extracting. I just didn't consider that after the
    bike shop couldn't get them off and they gave me their explanation.

    Be very very careful. Yes, it's a self extracting bolt. I think
    you need a 7mm wrench for the crank bolt (Sears sells this
    somewhat unusual size). If you're lucky you can get it off with
    the bolt. But, to make things extra tricky, the extractor caps
    may have a left-hand thread, which is probably one reason
    the bike shop couldn't loosen them. Don't screw up the caps
    or the crank thread, or lose the caps, because none of the
    usual right-hand thread tools will work.

  5. "Tim Lines" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I should
    use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I tried that
    for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing damage. There's
    got to be a better way.

    A really BAD picture of what I'm talking about is here:
    http://home.comcast.net/~lines_tim/crank.JPG

    Please reply to linest253 _at_ yah00 -dot- com

    This crankset uses Campagnolo self-extracting crank bolts. 7mm metric. No,
    it is not 6mm or some Imperial size. 7mm. If you try anything other than a
    7, you will strip the bolts, and then you'll have much bigger problems.

    The two holes are for for a pin-spanner. The crank extractor threads are a
    left-hand thread. Good thing you stopped after 10 seconds, because if you
    assumed that this was a standard thread, you were tightening it. And there
    is no reason to remove the extracting bolts from the crankarms, as the
    purpose of this whole thing is to remove the crank from the bottom bracket.

    Instructions: go to Sears and get a 7mm insert for a socket set. 3/8"
    driver - I think. A 7mm hex key is hard to find, and hex keys are simply
    inadequate to properly tighten cranksets. It will be faster and cheaper for
    you to do this yourself, in that otherwise you'll have to argue with the
    bike shop for 10 minutes that in fact there really is a 7mm hex standard,
    and then they'll try to remove this with a 6mm anyway when you're not
    around. God help you if the shop actually does manage to get the extractors
    out of the arms, in that they'll use a big wrench to screw in a standard
    right-hand crank extractor tool, and cross-thread/strip the whole thing.
    I've been there.

    BTW: this is a really nice crankset. I assume you have a really good reason
    for removing this, or someone has a fistfull of cash they are willing to
    trade with you.

  6. I can understand why Campagnolo would want to use a 7mm allen wrench
    for its cranks, but why left-handed? Also, what's the deal with
    "self-extracting" and the pin spanner holes?

  7. Adam Rush said:

    I can understand why Campagnolo would want to use a 7mm allen wrench
    for its cranks, but why left-handed? Also, what's the deal with
    "self-extracting" and the pin spanner holes?

    In a self-extracting crank bolt setup, when you unscrew the crank bolt,
    the shoulder of the crank bolt applies force to a part screwed the
    crank's extractor threads (I don't think it has an official name; call
    it an "extractor plate"😉. Between the bolt and the extractor plate is a
    washer, and the whole thing is greased. Unscrewing the crank bolt
    therefore pushes the whole crank off the spindle without additional
    tools. The pin holes are to install and, if desired, remove the
    extractor plate.

    Presumably the reason why Campy used left hand threads for this is
    because then the extractor plate would experience the rotational force
    in it's tightening direction upon extraction, not the loosening
    direction. Using 7mm, OTOH, is pretty inexplicable... maybe since
    apparently they were so concerned about the extractor plate coming
    loose, they were trying to get more contact area between the washer and
    the plate?

  8. Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I should
    use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I tried that
    for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing damage. There's
    got to be a better way.

    A really BAD picture of what I'm talking about is here:
    http://home.comcast.net/~lines_tim/crank.JPG

    Please reply to linest253 _at_ yah00 -dot- com

    The shiny chrome cap with 2 holes is a One-Key-Release
    system. Get some oil under that cap and just unscrew the big
    7mm bolt. It pushes the crank off.

    To service that system ( and I'm not suggesting you do - if
    it works, and I bet it does, you can leave it alone), use
    Campagnolo's Crank Cover Tool (with 2 pegs) to unscrew
    clockwise. Remove the cap, bolt, washers and then you can
    remove in the alternate manner - with a reverse thread
    Campagnolo crank remover ( we have 'em).

    As with all one-key systems, a bit of lubrication goes a
    _long_ way. Give it oil, use the integrated remover as intended.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  9. Nate Knutson said:

    Presumably the reason why Campy used left hand threads for this is
    because then the extractor plate would experience the rotational force
    in it's tightening direction upon extraction, not the loosening
    direction. Using 7mm, OTOH, is pretty inexplicable... maybe since
    apparently they were so concerned about the extractor plate coming
    loose, they were trying to get more contact area between the washer and
    the plate?

    I'm sure Campy rightfully assumed that any self-respecting bikeshop
    would have a 7mm allen-key. You needed them for Cinelli stems!

    --
    ---
    Marten Gerritsen

    INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
    www.m-gineering.nl

  10. Nate Knutson said:
    Adam Rush said:

    I can understand why Campagnolo would want to use a 7mm allen wrench
    for its cranks, but why left-handed? Also, what's the deal with
    "self-extracting" and the pin spanner holes?

    In a self-extracting crank bolt setup, when you unscrew the crank bolt,
    the shoulder of the crank bolt applies force to a part screwed the
    crank's extractor threads (I don't think it has an official name; call
    it an "extractor plate"😉. Between the bolt and the extractor plate is a
    washer, and the whole thing is greased. Unscrewing the crank bolt
    therefore pushes the whole crank off the spindle without additional
    tools. The pin holes are to install and, if desired, remove the
    extractor plate.

    Presumably the reason why Campy used left hand threads for this is
    because then the extractor plate would experience the rotational force
    in it's tightening direction upon extraction, not the loosening
    direction. Using 7mm, OTOH, is pretty inexplicable... maybe since
    apparently they were so concerned about the extractor plate coming
    loose, they were trying to get more contact area between the washer and
    the plate?

    just realized that doesn't make sense... beer not compatible w/ usenet

  11. Quoted message said:

    Using 7mm, OTOH, is pretty inexplicable... maybe since
    apparently they were so concerned about the extractor plate coming
    loose, they were trying to get more contact area between the washer and
    the plate?

    Well, it seems pretty logical that they would want to be able to sell
    their own 7 mm allen wrenches.

  12. Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I should
    use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I tried that
    for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing damage. There's
    got to be a better way.

    A really BAD picture of what I'm talking about is here:
    http://home.comcast.net/~lines_tim/crank.JPG

    Please reply to linest253 _at_ yah00 -dot- com

    7mm allen and these are self extractors-left loosey. If you want to
    take the entire bolt out via the pin holes-the thing is left threaded.
    Once out, use a left threaded crank puller-Campag type.

  13. Tim Lines said:
    Nate Knutson said:
    Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I should
    use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I tried that
    for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing damage. There's
    got to be a better way.

    A really BAD picture of what I'm talking about is here:
    http://home.comcast.net/~lines_tim/crank.JPG

    Please reply to linest253 _at_ yah00 -dot- com

    Can't tell from the picture but it looks sort of like a Sugino Autex
    self-extractor or some other type of self-extractor. It doesn't say
    Sugino or anything on it right?

    No, this is Campagnolo. Aside from that detail, I'll bet you're right.
    It's got to be self extracting. I just didn't consider that after the
    bike shop couldn't get them off and they gave me their explanation.

    I should have caught that. And I should stay out of that bike shop on
    Mondays since Monday is the owners' day off.

    Hopefully the owner would know-7mm allen-left-loosey.

  14. Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I
    should use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I
    tried that for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing
    damage. There's got to be a better way.

    There is, as has been pointed out. Stick a 7 mm allen wrench in there
    and unscrew the bolt out of the BB spindle. The cranks will be
    removed. It's as simple as can be, and if your bike shop did not know
    this, do not have anything further to do with them. they would have to
    be incompetent in the extreme to not know how to take these cranks
    off.

    If you want to remove the self-extractors for some reason, then you
    will need a pin spanner with pins of the appropriate size. IIRC the
    extractors are installed with left-hand threads to keep them from
    unscrewing while taking off the cranks. I believe that you can't use
    a standard crank puller with these cranks, but I've never tried. The
    self-extractors work very well, however.

    It's too bad Campy went with 7 mm bolts, 8 mm are what all other
    self-extractors use and the stouter Allen wrench makes it easier to
    get the cranks tight enough. See the true story of my misadventures
    with these:

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/mcnamara.html#bubs

  15. Tim McNamara said:
    Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I
    should use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I
    tried that for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing
    damage. There's got to be a better way.

    There is, as has been pointed out. Stick a 7 mm allen wrench in there
    and unscrew the bolt out of the BB spindle. The cranks will be
    removed. It's as simple as can be, and if your bike shop did not know
    this, do not have anything further to do with them. they would have to
    be incompetent in the extreme to not know how to take these cranks
    off.

    I donno-Only one other shop, amybe 2 here in the republic would
    recognize these or the other 7mm self extractors of the era. Doubt
    anybody but us have the left hand crank puller tho.

    Quoted message said:


    If you want to remove the self-extractors for some reason, then you
    will need a pin spanner with pins of the appropriate size. IIRC the
    extractors are installed with left-hand threads to keep them from
    unscrewing while taking off the cranks. I believe that you can't use
    a standard crank puller with these cranks, but I've never tried. The
    self-extractors work very well, however.

    It's too bad Campy went with 7 mm bolts, 8 mm are what all other
    self-extractors use and the stouter Allen wrench makes it easier to
    get the cranks tight enough. See the true story of my misadventures
    with these:

    Well, these were made in 1984 thru about 1990, 7-8 years before the 8mm
    self extractors of shimano and octalink. Other aftermarket extractors
    of the time were 6mm.

    Quoted message said:


    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/mcnamara.html#bubs

  16. Tim McNamara said:
    Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I
    should use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I
    tried that for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing
    damage. There's got to be a better way.

    There is, as has been pointed out. Stick a 7 mm allen wrench in there
    and unscrew the bolt out of the BB spindle. The cranks will be
    removed. It's as simple as can be, and if your bike shop did not know
    this, do not have anything further to do with them. they would have to
    be incompetent in the extreme to not know how to take these cranks
    off.

    I donno-Only one other shop, maybe 2 here in the republic would
    recognize these or the other 7mm self extractors of the era. Doubt
    anybody but us have the left hand crank puller tho.

    Quoted message said:


    If you want to remove the self-extractors for some reason, then you
    will need a pin spanner with pins of the appropriate size. IIRC the
    extractors are installed with left-hand threads to keep them from
    unscrewing while taking off the cranks. I believe that you can't use
    a standard crank puller with these cranks, but I've never tried. The
    self-extractors work very well, however.

    It's too bad Campy went with 7 mm bolts, 8 mm are what all other
    self-extractors use and the stouter Allen wrench makes it easier to
    get the cranks tight enough. See the true story of my misadventures
    with these:

    Well, these were made in 1984 thru about 1990, 7-8 years before the 8mm
    self extractors of shimano and octalink. Other aftermarket extractors
    of the time were 6mm.

    Quoted message said:


    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/mcnamara.html#bubs

  17. Tim McNamara said:
    Tim Lines said:

    I'd like some advise about how to remove a 1988 Croce D'Aune crank.

    The problem is that it's got lock bolts that take some kind of tiny
    locking pin spanner that neither I nor my LBS has. My LBS says I
    should use a really sharp and pointy pair of needle nose pliers. I
    tried that for about 10 seconds before I stopped for fear of doing
    damage. There's got to be a better way.

    There is, as has been pointed out. Stick a 7 mm allen wrench in there
    and unscrew the bolt out of the BB spindle. The cranks will be
    removed. It's as simple as can be, and if your bike shop did not know
    this, do not have anything further to do with them. they would have to
    be incompetent in the extreme to not know how to take these cranks
    off.

    I donno-Only one other shop, maybe 2 here in the republic would
    recognize these or the other 7mm self extractors of the era. Doubt
    anybody but us have the left hand crank puller tho.

    Quoted message said:


    If you want to remove the self-extractors for some reason, then you
    will need a pin spanner with pins of the appropriate size. IIRC the
    extractors are installed with left-hand threads to keep them from
    unscrewing while taking off the cranks. I believe that you can't use
    a standard crank puller with these cranks, but I've never tried. The
    self-extractors work very well, however.

    It's too bad Campy went with 7 mm bolts, 8 mm are what all other
    self-extractors use and the stouter Allen wrench makes it easier to
    get the cranks tight enough. See the true story of my misadventures
    with these:

    Well, these were made in 1984 thru about 1990, 7-8 years before the 8mm
    self extractors of shimano and octalink. Other aftermarket extractors
    of the time were 6mm.

    Quoted message said:


    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/mcnamara.html#bubs

  18. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    Doubt anybody but us have the left hand crank puller tho.

    Yours is a well-stocked service department!

  19. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:
    Tim McNamara said:


    It's too bad Campy went with 7 mm bolts, 8 mm are what all other
    self-extractors use and the stouter Allen wrench makes it easier to
    get the cranks tight enough. See the true story of my
    misadventures with these:

    Well, these were made in 1984 thru about 1990, 7-8 years before the
    8mm self extractors of shimano and octalink.

    Even a bit later than that. My ca 1996 Chorus gruppo had the 7 mm
    self-extractors, hence all the hijinks at Bub's Welding. 8 mm
    extractors were common by then.

  20. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Using 7mm, OTOH, is pretty inexplicable... maybe since
    apparently they were so concerned about the extractor plate coming
    loose, they were trying to get more contact area between the washer and
    the plate?

    Adam Rush said:

    Well, it seems pretty logical that they would want to be able to sell
    their own 7 mm allen wrenches.

    It was the standard size for bike equipment at the time

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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