Crank arm removal

try putting a piece of wood through the spokes on the other side of the
wheel and see if you can tap the crank off with a hammer.

--
musketman
------------------------------------------------------------------------
musketman's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/9214
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

Don't just loosen the bolts, take them out.

You did do both bolts right?

--
forrestunifreak

Andrew Carter said:

I never thought I'd hear myself saying this but if it comes down to blue
nipples that are (weak), or plain strong ones, I'll most likely go for
the blue ones...

you cant read this!
'My gallery' (http://tinyurl.com/bbf9x)

'Seattle Bike Supply' (http://www.seattlebikesupply.com)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
forrestunifreak's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6828
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

I took off both bolts, but I will try the wood block trick.

--
koebwil
------------------------------------------------------------------------
koebwil's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/11308
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

I can get mine off by hand, you have to pull hard with one hand, puch
with the other, and sortof wiggle it back and forth.

--
forrestunifreak

"I never thought I'd hear myself saying this but if it comes down to
blue nipples that are (weak), or plain strong ones, I'll most likely go
for the blue ones..."~Andrew Carter

you cant read this!
'My gallery' (http://tinyurl.com/bbf9x)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
forrestunifreak's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6828
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

I still can't get these crank arms off. I took the uni to my LBS and
the guy there was only able to remove one. If anyone has any ideas
that could help me I need them.

--
koebwil
------------------------------------------------------------------------
koebwil's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/11308
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

koebwil said:

I still can't get these crank arms off. I took the uni to my LBS and
the guy there was only able to remove one. If anyone has any ideas
that could help me I need them.

They didn't have a gear/bearing puller there? I've had to use a bearing
puller on a tapered crank once.

--
harper

-Greg Harper

B L U E S H I F T

*jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*
------------------------------------------------------------------------
harper's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/426
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

Here's a thread with a picture showing how you can use a bearing puller
(in this case the Evercraft bearing puller sold by Unicycle.com and
NAPA auto parts stores) to pull off a splined crank: 'Profile
maintenance' (http://tinyurl.com/3645)

--
john_childs

john_childs (att) hotmail (dott) com
Gallery: http://gallery.unicyclist.com/john_childs
'Unicycling Bookmark List' (http://backcountry.unicyclist.com/) ::
'World Clock' (http://tinyurl.com/a99y3)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

so the block thing didn't do the trick? Dang, i think you have to get a
bearing puller then. I really think you should get a KH hub for your
next hub, the cranks go on and come off by hand everytime, and are
lighter than profile hubs. No creaking (at least in my hub)of any kind
either.

--
musketman
------------------------------------------------------------------------
musketman's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/9214
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

I'm amazed that the wood and hammer trick didn't work. I actually use a
piece of steel pipe, padded with a sock, and just bang away till that
sucker comes off. With new Profile cranks, it sometimes takes some
serious hamering. Gear puller probably puts more direct force on the
crank arm but you miss the pleasure of hammering like hell on the
uni--which has hammered me plenty of times . . .

JL

--
vivalargo
------------------------------------------------------------------------
vivalargo's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/5625
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

I figure I'll try heating up the other crank arm. Also I'll buy a KH 06
when they come out.

--
koebwil
------------------------------------------------------------------------
koebwil's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/11308
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

koebwil said:

I figure I'll try heating up the other crank arm. Also I'll buy a KH 06
when they come out.

Heating isn't a good idea. You could just end up ruining the crank
with the heat (tempering the heat treatment). Besides both the crank
and axle are steel so they'll both expand at the same rate due to
heat.

Try 'penetrating oil' (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penetrating_oil)
and let the penetrating oil work its way in for several hours or a day.
WD-40 is one type of penetrating oil, but there is better stuff out
there if the WD-40 doesn't work.

Then when you put the crank back on make sure to use grease or
anti-seize so the crank doesn't get rusted on or stuck again.

--
john_childs

john_childs (att) hotmail (dott) com
Gallery: http://gallery.unicyclist.com/john_childs
'Unicycling Bookmark List' (http://backcountry.unicyclist.com/) ::
'World Clock' (http://tinyurl.com/a99y3)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

john_childs said:

Here's a thread with a picture showing how you can use a bearing puller
(in this case the Evercraft bearing puller sold by Unicycle.com and
NAPA auto parts stores) to pull off a splined crank: 'Profile
maintenance' (http://tinyurl.com/3645)

Now that's an historic post ... Ryan's first Profile hub and cranks...

--
U-Turn

Weep in the dojo... laugh on the battlefield.
'LiveWire Unicycles' (http://www.livewireunicycles.com)
'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39)
'29er Tire Study' (http://u-turn.unicyclist.com/29erTireStudy/)
'New York Unicycle Club' (http://www.newyorkunicycle.com)
-- Dave Stockton
------------------------------------------------------------------------
U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701

Get the right crank puller for it. It is different than the ones for a
tapered hub. I dorked around trying to get the cranks off my KH, got
it stuck, and had to send it back to UDC to fix it for me.

Park Tool USA makes a nice one called a CCP-4. Costs less than
shipping a unicycle back too.

Carey

--
Carey
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carey's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/9910
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/45701