cheech said:If I loctited the nuts that hold the cranks and I check the tightness in
the future and the nut moves does the loctite still work?
Nope.
Once you get the nut to move the bond is broken and the Loctite is no
longer doing its thing. The Loctited threads will still have some
additional holding power compared to unLoctited threads, but the hold
will be nowhere near what you get with the full unbroken Loctite bond.
Once the bond is broken I remove the nut or bolt completely and use a
small screwdriver or similar tool to pick out the dried Loctite from
the threads, then reapply the Loctite before putting the nut or bolt
back on.
The thing with Loctiting the crank nut/bolt is that you do not need to
check the nut for tightness anymore. Just leave it alone. If the
crank was put on using a torque wrench then still going to be tight as
long as the Loctited bolt has not moved. If the crank starts to have
play it is going to be because the crank is either starting to split or
the aluminum tapers have deformed due to heavy use. In either case the
crank is probably shot.
And after my experience with my 'stripped coker hub'
(http://tinyurl.com/8d4mr) I now use medium strength Loctite for the
crank bolt/nut. I don't think it was the high strength Loctite that
killed the threads on that hub, but just to be safe the medium strength
is the best option. Medium strength is plenty strong for the purpose.
I suspect that the threads on my stripped hub were just more brittle
than typical for a Miyata hub. There can be variances in heat treating
and being just a little bit off in the heat treating process can make
the threads more brittle than they are supposed to be.
--
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