rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

Loctite

Started by cheech · · Last activity · 4 posts · 308 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
30 December 2005
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31 December 2005
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cheech
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  1. If I loctited the nuts that hold the cranks and I check the tightness in
    the future and the nut moves does the loctite still work?

    --
    cheech
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  2. Never used loctite, but seeing as no one else has replied:

    No, it doesn't. Once on it hardens. Moving the surfaces breaks the
    bond.

    --
    johnhimsworth

    Never argue with an idiot; they drag you down to their level and then
    beat you with experience.
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  3. actually depending on the type of loctite that you use (some are
    stronger than others) it will still work but it will not be as strong
    as it was before so I would suggest that you put a little on the bolt
    after you take it off.

    --
    carsonpalooza

    I just wear bike shorts...* the tight kind*
    That site is making me drool.
    -Dave aka fcwegnm0b
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  4. cheech said:

    If I loctited the nuts that hold the cranks and I check the tightness in
    the future and the nut moves does the loctite still work?

    Nope.
    Once you get the nut to move the bond is broken and the Loctite is no
    longer doing its thing. The Loctited threads will still have some
    additional holding power compared to unLoctited threads, but the hold
    will be nowhere near what you get with the full unbroken Loctite bond.

    Once the bond is broken I remove the nut or bolt completely and use a
    small screwdriver or similar tool to pick out the dried Loctite from
    the threads, then reapply the Loctite before putting the nut or bolt
    back on.

    The thing with Loctiting the crank nut/bolt is that you do not need to
    check the nut for tightness anymore. Just leave it alone. If the
    crank was put on using a torque wrench then still going to be tight as
    long as the Loctited bolt has not moved. If the crank starts to have
    play it is going to be because the crank is either starting to split or
    the aluminum tapers have deformed due to heavy use. In either case the
    crank is probably shot.

    And after my experience with my 'stripped coker hub'
    (http://tinyurl.com/8d4mr) I now use medium strength Loctite for the
    crank bolt/nut. I don't think it was the high strength Loctite that
    killed the threads on that hub, but just to be safe the medium strength
    is the best option. Medium strength is plenty strong for the purpose.
    I suspect that the threads on my stripped hub were just more brittle
    than typical for a Miyata hub. There can be variances in heat treating
    and being just a little bit off in the heat treating process can make
    the threads more brittle than they are supposed to be.

    --
    john_childs

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