I have some things to add about "centering spring."
Stem and tiller, give a "centering spring" as Kochanowski explains, but there is another source of
"centering spring" that is aptly described by Professor Patterson in his "Lords of the Chainrings."
Positive trail gives a "centering spring" that is negative at high speeds, and if the head angle is
much shallower than vertical (as is the case on almost all commercial bikes) the centering spring at
low speeds will be positive. i.e. at low speeds the bars will pull away from you when you push on
them and at high speeds they will push back.
I believe that a moderate amount centering spring due to trail is good, as is a moderate amount due
to stem or tiller, but that neither is strictly necessary. Everyone is different - requiring
different amounts of the various kinds of feedback, but for me a bike with no trail and neither stem
nor tiller is completely and totally rideable (at least at less than escape velocity speeds).
Also, I would guess that almost everyone has ridden a bike with neither stem nor tiller. The average
3-speed upright of the 70's has a short stem and handlebars which pull back slightly. On those bikes
all the centering spring is due to trail - none of it is due to stem or tiller, and I've never met
anyone who couldn't ride one of those.
And a question for the group, don't most linked steering USS bikes have neither stem nor trail, or
perhaps precious little if any?
P.S. Remove the ratsnest to reply directly to me.
(Joseph Kochanowski) said:Non-anecdotal data- most speedbikes like those at Battle Mountain are above seat steering.
Bicycles need something like a CENTERING SPRING. UCI approved bikes have this by having a long
stem that the rider pushes forward to center the steering. Recumbents like the Tour Easy, which is
the most popular bent where I live, centers the steering by letting the rider pull back lightly on
the handlebars.
<snip