Stripped Bottom Bracket

"Joe Dewberry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello Group,

I am one of the few, the proud, the dumba**es who stripped his bottom bracket.

The question I am posing to the group is simple...what available

soulutions

Quoted message said:

are there?

Sidenote: I am running a cannondale aluminum frame.

Thanks!
--
Joe Dewberry Bike Destroyer Extraordinaire

It's a small, dedicated club...I did it to my first Italian Columbus frame..sigh..fortunately, it
was threaded for English and you can re-thread for Italian BB if you're lucky. Take it to a shop and
see if they can do that for you. If not, there are BB's that don't require threads, but it's a bit
of a process. The last BB I used for this application was a Mavic BB, and it required the you use a
special tool to cut a 45degree chamfer in the BB shell and then the BB had tapered rings that
tightened against the chamfer. It actually worked quite well and the BB was top quality. I'm not
sure if it's still available, but take heart, there is a solution I'm sure. Re-threading is probably
a $25 job, a new BB with chamfered lock rings is probably $25 + the cost of the BB...I'm
thinking...$100 all together.

Cheers,

Scott..

Joe Dewberry' may have said:

Hello Group,

I am one of the few, the proud, the dumba**es who stripped his bottom bracket.

The question I am posing to the group is simple...what available soulutions are there?

Sidenote: I am running a cannondale aluminum frame.

Stripped the threads in the frame, or the end of the BB shaft? The latter's easy; the former
requires one more question; you didn't strip *both* sides, did you?

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.

Quoted message said:

From: "S. Anderson"

Quoted message said:

If not, there are BB's that don't require threads, but it's a bit of a process. The last BB I used
for this application was a Mavic BB, and it required the you use a special tool to cut a 45degree
chamfer in the BB shell and then the BB had tapered rings that tightened against the chamfer. It
actually worked quite well and the BB was top quality. I'm not sure if it's still available, but
take heart, there is a solution I'm sure. Re-threading is probably a $25 job, a new BB with
chamfered lock rings is probably $25 + the cost of the BB...I'm thinking...$100 all together.

<http://www.stronglight.com/anglais/produits/prodf1.htm>

Mavics no longer made by report, Stronglight supposedly making the "same" Mavic no-thread BB. It's
not going to be any $25, but you might find a shop with the proper chamfering tools. You're likely
to have a length difference, too, if only a small one. --Tom Paterson

[email hidden] (Tom Paterson) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Mavics no longer made by report, Stronglight supposedly making the "same" Mavic no-thread BB. It's
not going to be any $25, but you might find a shop with the proper chamfering tools. You're likely
to have a length difference, too, if only a small one. --Tom Paterson

Bike Tools Etc. sells *real*cheap* threadless BB cartridges: $16.95 each. Go to
biketoolsetc.comindex.cgiOpen ↗ and search for "BB993".

Jeff

(Jeff Wills) may have said:

[email hidden] (Tom Paterson) wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Mavics no longer made by report, Stronglight supposedly making the "same" Mavic no-thread BB.
It's not going to be any $25, but you might find a shop with the proper chamfering tools. You're
likely to have a length difference, too, if only a small one. --Tom Paterson

Bike Tools Etc. sells *real*cheap* threadless BB cartridges: $16.95 each. Go to
biketoolsetc.comindex.cgiOpen ↗ and search for "BB993".

Am I mistaken in thinking that the Ultimax Titanium BB from the same source is built to require the
use of the threads in the BB on one side only? If that's the case, as it appears from what I can
see, then as long as the BB still has threads on one side, it should be possible to install the
cartridge. (It would look odd to have the flange on the crank side, of course, but would that really
cause a problem?)

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.

Joe Dewberry said:

I am one of the few, the proud, the dumba**es who stripped his bottom bracket.

The question I am posing to the group is simple...what available soulutions are there?

How badly stripped? I find that the cartridge-style bottom brackets, like the UN-72 and similar
models, stay put even with the minimal amount of real threads that are left in my old track bike.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Accept risk. Accept responsibility. Put a lawyer out of _`\(,_ | business. (_)/ (_) |

If you are not sure about Italian thread solution, I add this: you can avoid the lack of choice and
loosening problems by re-inserting BSA threads. Your frame repairer can order the adapter sleeves
from Joe Bringhelli, glue them
in (Iuse JB weld) chase after cure and you now have steel threads on a ALbike. Tom

--
Bruni Bicycles "Where art meets science" brunibicycles.com
410.426.3420 Joe Dewberry <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello Group,

I am one of the few, the proud, the dumba**es who stripped his bottom bracket.

The question I am posing to the group is simple...what available

soulutions

Quoted message said:

are there?

Sidenote: I am running a cannondale aluminum frame.

Thanks!
--
Joe Dewberry Bike Destroyer Extraordinaire

joe-<< I am one of the few, the proud, the dumba**es who stripped his bottom bracket. >><BR><BR>

A tap run thru the BB shell doesn't do it? Not enough metal left? If so, Zephal makes a BB that uses
lockrings, ala the older Mavic BB, that does not rely on BB threads. Somewhat limited in BB spindle
lengths(114/116) and square taper but a nice BB.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Jeff Wills said:

Bike Tools Etc. sells *real*cheap* threadless BB cartridges: $16.95 each. Go to
biketoolsetc.comindex.cgiOpen ↗ and search for "BB993".

I've used these YST BBs; they're cheap, but they also don't last very long.
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> Kill the tomato!

Werehatrack said:

Quoted message said:

Bike Tools Etc. sells *real*cheap* threadless BB cartridges: $16.95 each.
Go to biketoolsetc.comindex.cgiOpen ↗ and search for "BB993".

Seems to be the ticket.

Quoted message said:

Am I mistaken in thinking that the Ultimax Titanium BB from the same source is built to require
the use of the threads in the BB on one side only?

I believe you are. That left cup is threaded.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | The trouble with the rat race is that even if you win you're _`\(,_ | still a rat. --Lilly
Tomlin (_)/ (_) |

(Jeff Wills) may have said:

Werehatrack <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>... <snip>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Bike Tools Etc. sells *real*cheap* threadless BB cartridges: $16.95 each. Go to
biketoolsetc.comindex.cgiOpen ↗ and search for "BB993".

Am I mistaken in thinking that the Ultimax Titanium BB from the same source is built to require
the use of the threads in the BB on one side only? If that's the case, as it appears from what I
can see, then as long as the BB still has threads on one side, it should be possible to install
the cartridge. (It would look odd to have the flange on the crank side, of course, but would that
really cause a problem?)

If you found the Ultimax BB, you did the search wrong. The Ultimax BB requires conventional
threads. You should have found "YST BB993 Threadless Cartridge Bottom Bracket, 68mm Shell" in 7
different spindle lengths... at least I did.

I was looking for alternate solutions. If threads are stripped on one side only, and threads exist
on both sides in the frame, it struck me that there might be a BB that would still work with the
remaining threads if it only needed threads on one side. The mavic-style threadless sidesteps the
whole issue, of course, and the 993 is a whole lot cheaper as well.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy.

Advice? Take it to your Cannondale dealer and he can probably get you a replacement frame for cost.
Hard to say though with Cannondale going through all of it's money woes after that dumbass ex-CEO
tried to make motorcycles.

"Joe Dewberry" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello Group,

I am one of the few, the proud, the dumba**es who stripped his

bottom

Quoted message said:

bracket.

The question I am posing to the group is simple...what available

soulutions

Quoted message said:

are there?

Sidenote: I am running a cannondale aluminum frame.

Thanks!
--
Joe Dewberry Bike Destroyer Extraordinaire

I've done this and fixed it just as easily. People always do this, then come to me to fix it when
all the other shops say "too-bad, buy a new frame." Clean out the offended area very well. Degrease
very well. Buy some Alumaloy rod. ( Selling now on infomercials, but they also have a website ). Buy
the rods, heat the inside of the BB shell with a propane torch, slather on the rod all the way
around. ( just follow their easy instructions). Use a hand-file to get it in the ball-park round. Go
to a shop and have Campy taps run through. These taps sets pilot off a central shaft so each side is
perfectly concentric and square. The up-front cost of rods is about $45, not cheap. I use them quite
a bit, so it's worthwhile. The shop charges are about $25 for tapping. I charge $100 for the whole
shebang in my shop. But I can save any frame with stripped, torn or even missing threads. I've done
it on steel frames as well using a low-temp silver-bronze alloy. I CAN put the hole back into the
donut.The real problem is that most shops suck and they don't wanna try the hard things. I love it
when they ssay "can't be done". When other shops call me to fix their screw-ups, I make them send
the customer down. I want the customer to know who the mechanic is and who is just a parts-replacer.
Anyhow, it can be done and 75% of the time without serious damage to the paint.

"Bikefixr" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've done this and fixed it just as easily. People always do this, then

come to

Quoted message said:

me to fix it when all the other shops say "too-bad, buy a new frame."

Clean

Quoted message said:

out the offended area very well. Degrease very well. Buy some Alumaloy

rod. (

Quoted message said:

Selling now on infomercials, but they also have a website ). Buy the rods,

heat

Quoted message said:

the inside of the BB shell with a propane torch, slather on the rod all

the way

Quoted message said:

around. ( just follow their easy instructions). Use a hand-file to get it

in

Quoted message said:

the ball-park round. Go to a shop and have Campy taps run through. These

taps

Quoted message said:

sets pilot off a central shaft so each side is perfectly concentric and

square.

Quoted message said:

The up-front cost of rods is about $45, not cheap. I use them quite a bit,

so

Quoted message said:

it's worthwhile. The shop charges are about $25 for tapping. I charge $100

for

Quoted message said:

the whole shebang in my shop. But I can save any frame with stripped, torn

or

Quoted message said:

even missing threads. I've done it on steel frames as well using a

low-temp

Quoted message said:

silver-bronze alloy. I CAN put the hole back into the donut.The real

problem is

Quoted message said:

that most shops suck and they don't wanna try the hard things. I love it

when

Quoted message said:

they ssay "can't be done". When other shops call me to fix their

screw-ups, I

Quoted message said:

make them send the customer down. I want the customer to know who the

mechanic

Quoted message said:

is and who is just a parts-replacer. Anyhow, it can be done and 75% of the

time

Quoted message said:

without serious damage to the paint.

Good points! On the other hand, what do you expect from a $6 an hour employee? The knowledge that
you have did not come overnight either...

Bruce