The drive chain on the Single spd commuter is finally lived through it's best times. I’m running the single cog on a spaced-out cassette freewheel on my stnd MTB with vertical drop-outs, so I use a chain tensioner. Not happy with the DMR chain tensioner I’m using as the spring mechanism which loads the tensioner is actually just a bent piece of fencing wire (or a close cousin to a piece of fencing wire) which has dropped my chain more than once (I feel that gutters & stairs are legitimate avenues of passage). So I really want to lose my DMR tensioner down the back of the shed where my old training wheels are if I can.
At last Thursday’s dirt crits at Westgate (Melb) there was a dude that was riding a single spd with a chain made of half links. Half link chains has each link exactly the same, & each link connects on the outer at one end & tapers in to connect into the inner on the next link. (I hope this makes sense). I herd they’re about $150. Anyone got personal exp with fitting them ( I assume they use the pressed in pin set-up) & how they last next to a stnd , say multi-spd chain? They look pretty beefy & give the impression they’ll last well right up to when they need replacing. .
Just as a side note, when I waltz into a LBS & drop a comment about parts from my commuter I always get referred to the lower end, basic or cheap stuff. It’s ironic really as I do more mileage on the commuter than my other 2 bikes in all sort of conditions all yr 'round & only really consider acknowledging maintenance on it when things go wrong,. As apart from my dirt going MTB, that gets TLC after every major ride/race (so parts get replaced & it gets serviced well) or my roadbike that does easy road miles & little squeaks & rattles get addressed quick-smart (no one likes to ride next to a noisy road bike).
At last Thursday’s dirt crits at Westgate (Melb) there was a dude that was riding a single spd with a chain made of half links. Half link chains has each link exactly the same, & each link connects on the outer at one end & tapers in to connect into the inner on the next link. (I hope this makes sense). I herd they’re about $150. Anyone got personal exp with fitting them ( I assume they use the pressed in pin set-up) & how they last next to a stnd , say multi-spd chain? They look pretty beefy & give the impression they’ll last well right up to when they need replacing. . [/I]
Isn't it more common to use one half-link in a regular chain to get better tension? They seem to be common in the BMX world (1/8 chains) but I've never come across one in Oz.
Spicer cycles has one for 3/32 chains. Shipping might be more than the cost of the link though.
Personally, I'd look for another solution to "the perfect chain length/tension on vert drops" method. I used to do this on my MTB convert but I had to pre-stretch the chain 1st to make it fit. After about 2 weeks of riding the chain would be too slack and I'd have to do it all over again. Too much trouble.
The drive chain on the Single spd commuter is finally lived through it's best times. I’m running the single cog on a spaced-out cassette freewheel on my stnd MTB with vertical drop-outs, so I use a chain tensioner. Not happy with the DMR chain tensioner I’m using as the spring mechanism which loads the tensioner is actually just a bent piece of fencing wire (or a close cousin to a piece of fencing wire) which has dropped my chain more than once (I feel that gutters & stairs are legitimate avenues of passage). So I really want to lose my DMR tensioner down the back of the shed where my old training wheels are if I can.
At last Thursday’s dirt crits at Westgate (Melb) there was a dude that was riding a single spd with a chain made of half links. Half link chains has each link exactly the same, & each link connects on the outer at one end & tapers in to connect into the inner on the next link. (I hope this makes sense). I herd they’re about $150. Anyone got personal exp with fitting them ( I assume they use the pressed in pin set-up) & how they last next to a stnd , say multi-spd chain? They look pretty beefy & give the impression they’ll last well right up to when they need replacing. .
Just as a side note, when I waltz into a LBS & drop a comment about parts from my commuter I always get referred to the lower end, basic or cheap stuff. It’s ironic really as I do more mileage on the commuter than my other 2 bikes in all sort of conditions all yr 'round & only really consider acknowledging maintenance on it when things go wrong,. As apart from my dirt going MTB, that gets TLC after every major ride/race (so parts get replaced & it gets serviced well) or my roadbike that does easy road miles & little squeaks & rattles get addressed quick-smart (no one likes to ride next to a noisy road bike).
$150 for a chain is ridiculous. You don't need a whole chain made from halflings.. I mean half-links. You only need to remove a normal link and fit a halflink. Surely with the amount of SS in Oz they are locally available somewhere?
You could also try bending the spring in the tensioner to give more tension.
I used a derailer on the GT for tensioning and I don't actually remember dropping the chain once I'd fitted it. I know it's a bit fugly but so am I so no probs! :P
Sometimes maybe I think about stuff too much. The DMR tensioner has a relitively shallow range of tension due to the type of spring it uses – the bent piece of wire. If it had a cool coil spring that’s found in every friendly neighbourhood rear derailuer then there wouldn’t be a problem as that type of spring can provide a more uniform tension across a far greater range.
I’m currently running 44/18 & have a lot of slack in the chain I can’t take up by dropping a link. I have a 16t cog laying aorund so I’m matching that to a 38t chainwheel to get close to the ratio I’m running right now, see how that goes with a SRAM 8spd chain I found with the 16t cog.
