I had some Daytona 9 speed shifters, Racing T cranks, and a Racing T rear derailleur. I got some new Chorus 10 speed shifters, a Centaur 10 speed cassette, and a record 10s chain, keeping the Racing T crankset and rear derailleur.
On the bench, it's perfect. No noise, smooth and wonderful. On the road, whenever any power is applied, I hear noise I believe coming from the rear derailleur. I can feel it resonating on the chain, but I can't tell where it's coming from. The noise is similar to when your front derailleur needs to be trimmed, only instead of metal on metal, it's a metal on plastic sound coming more from the rear of the bike.
The Racing T rear derailleur says 9 speed on it, do I need pulleys or something for it to make it quiet? Anything else I might be missing?
I had some Daytona 9 speed shifters, Racing T cranks, and a Racing T rear derailleur. I got some new Chorus 10 speed shifters, a Centaur 10 speed cassette, and a record 10s chain, keeping the Racing T crankset and rear derailleur.
On the bench, it's perfect. No noise, smooth and wonderful. On the road, whenever any power is applied, I hear noise I believe coming from the rear derailleur. I can feel it resonating on the chain, but I can't tell where it's coming from. The noise is similar to when your front derailleur needs to be trimmed, only instead of metal on metal, it's a metal on plastic sound coming more from the rear of the bike.
The Racing T rear derailleur says 9 speed on it, do I need pulleys or something for it to make it quiet? Anything else I might be missing?
I had some Daytona 9 speed shifters, Racing T cranks, and a Racing T rear derailleur. I got some new Chorus 10 speed shifters, a Centaur 10 speed cassette, and a record 10s chain, keeping the Racing T crankset and rear derailleur.
On the bench, it's perfect. No noise, smooth and wonderful. On the road, whenever any power is applied, I hear noise I believe coming from the rear derailleur. I can feel it resonating on the chain, but I can't tell where it's coming from. The noise is similar to when your front derailleur needs to be trimmed, only instead of metal on metal, it's a metal on plastic sound coming more from the rear of the bike.
The Racing T rear derailleur says 9 speed on it, do I need pulleys or something for it to make it quiet? Anything else I might be missing?
You are missing something. No need to change anything. In fact the pulleys are "9-10'...Perhaps a slighly bent der hanger or worn out rear derailleur? Hard to tell w/o seeing/hearing it. I have done this upgrade more than a few times w/o any issues.
You are missing something. No need to change anything. In fact the pulleys are "9-10'...Perhaps a slighly bent der hanger or worn out rear derailleur? Hard to tell w/o seeing/hearing it. I have done this upgrade more than a few times w/o any issues.
I've read about the upgrade and believe that it should work. The derailleur looks perfectly straight. The feel and noise is the same as if the upper jockey wheel is touching the cassette. It isn't. I have the b-limit screw all the way in. Nothing seems to be amiss. Could my jockey wheels be worn such that they are causing a problem? The chain from the cassette through the jockey wheels are perfectly vertical, so I assume my dropout is straight. Never been in a crash or anything.
Also, can you re-use the pin that comes with the record chain? I think I'd like to take out one more link, but they only provided one pin. The Dura-Ace chains come with two, so i was wondering if the pin can be used again?
Lastly, my rear derailleur is now VERY close the the spokes when in the biggest cog. How close? I'd estimate a skosh over 1/16". Normal?
You are missing something. No need to change anything. In fact the pulleys are "9-10'...Perhaps a slighly bent der hanger or worn out rear derailleur? Hard to tell w/o seeing/hearing it. I have done this upgrade more than a few times w/o any issues.
I've read about the upgrade and believe that it should work. The derailleur looks perfectly straight. The feel and noise is the same as if the upper jockey wheel is touching the cassette. It isn't. I have the b-limit screw all the way in. Nothing seems to be amiss. Could my jockey wheels be worn such that they are causing a problem?
Could be. A longer b limit screw or perhaps a link tot long of a chain?
The chain
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from the cassette through the jockey wheels are perfectly vertical, so I assume my dropout is straight. Never been in a crash or anything.
Also, can you re-use the pin that comes with the record chain?
No-Use a Wipperman 10s link.
I think
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I'd like to take out one more link, but they only provided one pin. The Dura-Ace chains come with two, so i was wondering if the pin can be used again?
Lastly, my rear derailleur is now VERY close the the spokes when in the biggest cog. How close? I'd estimate a skosh over 1/16". Normal?
yes, normal. As long as you can't push on the der body, with the bike in the stand, when in the biggest cog and it won't tickle the spokes.
I had some Daytona 9 speed shifters, Racing T cranks, and a Racing T rear derailleur. I got some new Chorus 10 speed shifters, a Centaur 10 speed cassette, and a record 10s chain, keeping the Racing T crankset and rear derailleur.
On the bench, it's perfect. No noise, smooth and wonderful. On the road, whenever any power is applied, I hear noise I believe coming from the rear derailleur. I can feel it resonating on the chain, but I can't tell where it's coming from. The noise is similar to when your front derailleur needs to be trimmed, only instead of metal on metal, it's a metal on plastic sound coming more from the rear of the bike.
The Racing T rear derailleur says 9 speed on it, do I need pulleys or something for it to make it quiet? Anything else I might be missing?
You are missing something. No need to change anything. In fact the pulleys are "9-10'...Perhaps a slighly bent der hanger or worn out rear derailleur? Hard to tell w/o seeing/hearing it. I have done this upgrade more than a few times w/o any issues.
Well, I got it working. I went to the store and bought some 10s pulleys. The pulleys themselves say 9s/10s on them as stated above; however, the silver bushings on the 10s pulleys are stamped 10s, while the ones on my Racing-T unit has no markings. After swapping the pulleys, the noise is gone. I wonder if the 10s silver washer-esque things are slightly thinner, allowing more float or something? It could have been my previous pulleys were really worn as I've always used a dura-ace chain with the sram gold link.
I committed a cardinal sin by upgrading to 10s right before a 3 day ride through the mountains. I'm happy to report that I did not experience a single mis-shift or any noise.
[email hidden] wrote: r, the silver bushings on the 10s pulleys are stamped 10s, while
Quoted message said:
the ones on my Racing-T unit has no markings. After swapping the pulleys, the noise is gone. I wonder if the 10s silver washer-esque things are slightly thinner, allowing more float or something? It could have been my previous pulleys were really worn as I've always used a dura-ace chain with the sram gold link.
I committed a cardinal sin by upgrading to 10s right before a 3 day ride through the mountains. I'm happy to report that I did not experience a single mis-shift or any noise.
