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Chain / Sprocket Cleaning

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
4 August 2005
Last activity
20 August 2005
Original author
1013
Posts
26
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  1. I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot of
    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along
    the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so
    dirty I cannot see a thing.

    How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which
    allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets?

    Thanks in advance.

    Photos of the chain, etc:
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/mtb1.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain1.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain2.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain3.jpg

  2. 1013 said:

    I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot of
    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along
    the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so
    dirty I cannot see a thing.

    How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which
    allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets?

    Thanks in advance.

    Photos of the chain, etc:
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/mtb1.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain1.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain2.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain3.jpg

    I wouldn't do it if I was you.

    Zoom

  3. "1013" wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:

    I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot
    of
    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Nice ride, but damn that running gear is a mess... get a chain breaker and
    get to work cleaning that monster... to rejoin a chain, I would recommend
    using these: http://tinyurl.com/exf4y they come in all sizes etc, and work
    an absolute treat for chain removal...

    If you are in Doncaster as your email suggests, go see Andy at BikePro on
    Whitehorse Rd, he should have them in stock..

    I'd suggest NEVER treating your chain/running gear like that again, that
    thing has to be dropping balls of cakey black [censored] everywhere!.. I'd be
    cleaning it up before adding more lube each time...

    cheers,
    GPL

  4. I’m no expert, but my personal endeavours of removing a drive chain of a bike has left it useless for re-use (using a chain breaker tool thingy).
    I know that some new chains (non-Shimano) can had a real tight connecting link, which requires a lot of work to free-up after the reinstall.
    (Shimano chains have a funky link pin that’s tapers slightly so when installed it does seem to force the link plates together & bind).
    There is the other type of circlip like connecting link which is a no-tools, no-brainer operation, SRAM?

    Looking at the photos I would dismantle the rear derailleur for a clean-up & grease, & then spray the chain with WD-40 & turn it through a rag a few times.

  5. GPLama said:

    "1013" wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:

    I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot
    of
    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Nice ride, but damn that running gear is a mess... get a chain breaker and
    get to work cleaning that monster... to rejoin a chain, I would recommend
    using these: http://tinyurl.com/exf4y they come in all sizes etc, and work
    an absolute treat for chain removal...

    Seconded. I have a chain breaker floating around in my unit somewhere;
    if you want to borrow it, drop me an email. (The From: address on this
    message will work until the 18th or so of August.) I live in Mitcham, by
    the way.

    Quoted message said:

    I'd suggest NEVER treating your chain/running gear like that again, that
    thing has to be dropping balls of cakey black [censored] everywhere!.. I'd be
    cleaning it up before adding more lube each time...

    It reminds me of my chain before I pulled out the chain breaker and
    cleaned it up in kero (speaking of which, I also have an ultrasonic
    cleaner. BYO kero, though.) Unfortunately, I didn't have the lube to
    finish the job. Whoops.

    --
    My Usenet From: address now expires after two weeks. If you email me, and
    the mail bounces, try changing the bit before the "@ to usenet".

  6. 1013 said:

    I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot of
    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Chain breaker/ Chain tool, but if you are planning on removing the
    chain regularly you should buy a chain with a removable link or have a
    link installed on your existing chain?

    Here is an example of a chain tool:
    http://www.parktool.com/tools/CT_3.shtml

    ; Not sure on how much th

    Quoted message said:

    How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which
    allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivet

    Read these postings:

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
    http://yarchive.net/bike/chain_clean.html
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

    And then figure out whats good for you 🙂

    I use a chain cleaner machine: http://www.parktool.com/tools/CM_5.shtml
    along with a chain whip, cassette lock ring remover, rags and a
    toothbrush to clean my drivetrain. I use kerosene to remove the muck.
    Be very careful not to get the kero in your hubs/bottom bracket

  7. Aaargh! That's disgusting! Just an ordinary chain breaker and an old jar
    full of kero would be my first thoughts. Alternatively, I sometimes use one
    of those chain washing rigs that hook on to your chain/rear derailer and
    fill it with kero. You'd probably want to replace the kero in the rig about
    20 times on that lump of muck! Not sure how these two methods compare but
    I've always been happy after using the hook on rig.

    Good luck.

    --
    Bean

    Remove "yourfinger" before replying
    "1013" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot


    of

    Quoted message said:

    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along
    the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so
    dirty I cannot see a thing.

    How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which
    allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets?

    Thanks in advance.

    Photos of the chain, etc:
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/mtb1.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain1.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain2.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain3.jpg

  8. Thanks guys for your advice.

    I actually live in Sydney. My e-mail address is unrelated to my
    name/location.

    I will probably have to take my bike to a bike shop and get the chain
    removed and a removable link put on.

    "GPLama" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    "1013" wrote in message ...

    Quoted message said:

    I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot
    of
    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano


    chain

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Nice ride, but damn that running gear is a mess... get a chain breaker and
    get to work cleaning that monster... to rejoin a chain, I would recommend
    using these: http://tinyurl.com/exf4y they come in all sizes etc, and


    work

    Quoted message said:

    an absolute treat for chain removal...

    If you are in Doncaster as your email suggests, go see Andy at BikePro on
    Whitehorse Rd, he should have them in stock..

    I'd suggest NEVER treating your chain/running gear like that again, that
    thing has to be dropping balls of cakey black [censored] everywhere!.. I'd be
    cleaning it up before adding more lube each time...

    cheers,
    GPL

  9. Do you use kero to clean or another product?

    "Marx SS" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    I'm no expert, but my personal endeavours of removing a drive chain of a
    bike has left it useless for re-use.
    I know that some new chains (non-Shimano) can had a real tight
    connecting link, which requires a lot of work to free-up after the
    reinstall.
    (Shimano chains have a funky link pin that's tapers slightly so when
    installed it does seem to force the link plates together & bind).
    There is the other type of circlip like connecting link which is a
    no-tools, no-brainer operation, SRAM?

    Looking at the photos I would dismantle the rear derailleur for a
    clean-up & grease, & then spray the chain with WD-40 & turn it through
    a rag a few times.

    --
    Marx SS

  10. "1013" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot


    of

    Quoted message said:

    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along
    the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so
    dirty I cannot see a thing.

    How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which
    allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets?

    I'd remove the chain using a chain breaker, then give it a thorough clean.
    My preferred method is to soak in kero, but other solvents may be better -
    petrol has more nasties and catches fire more easily, so avoid that. I know
    people who seal the chain and kero in a container, Put a load in the washing
    machine and tape the container to the lid, and put a load through the
    machine. All that vibration really gets the gunk out. I can't get away with
    that method, so just swoosh it around with my hands - should wear gloves.
    Empty the dirty kero, and repeat, until the kero stays clean (or very
    close). This means there's no more dirt on or in the chain. You can recycle
    the solvent buy filtering it into a container, and then allowing the grit to
    settle before transferring to a new container. It never gets completely
    clean, so I use the recycled stuff for the first couple of cleans - not
    rinses.

    To rejoin the chain, Shimano sell special joining pins (last time I bought
    one I think it was less than $2). They strongly recommend against reusing
    the pin you pushed out. Alternatively, buy a joiner link - SRAM, Craig Super
    Links, and others all work well. Now you can take the chain off and clean it
    regularly. I really like that feature of joining links.

    Allow the chain to dry, then relube with lube of your choice. I like wax
    lubes for their cleanliness, but find they can lead to squeaking chains
    quickly, so nowadays I use a combo wet/wax lube (White Lightning Extreme).
    Not as clean, but doesn't squeak as quickly. Wipe off excess lube. Ride.

    HTH

    Tony F
    http://www.thefathippy.com

  11. "alex" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    I use a chain cleaner machine: http://www.parktool.com/tools/CM_5.shtml
    along with a chain whip, cassette lock ring remover, rags and a
    toothbrush to clean my drivetrain. I use kerosene to remove the muck.
    Be very careful not to get the kero in your hubs/bottom bracket

    The chain cleaner machine look alright but I think my chain, etc needs
    something more since there is such a large build up of grime.

    I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less
    thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser
    but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain.

  12. 1013 said:

    "alex" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less
    thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser
    but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain.

    yep.. nothing beats taking the chain off.. but I don't have a link on
    mine 🙂

  13. As the status quo on the replies have been to clean in kero etc (I have used turps once – left over from painting the house), then I can’t see any problem in just removing your rear wheel & threading out the chain off the rear derailleur & front chain wheels, & just soak half of it for a spell & then the other half, giving it abit of a scrub with an old toothbrush (or equiv) in between.
    I go through heaps of rags too & mess a hell of a mess when I clean my chain like this.

    At least this way the awkwardness you have to put up with doing the clean means you don’t have to worry about breaking the chain.

    I re-lube with WD-40 first, run it through a rag heaps & then re-lube with proper bicycle chain lube. (Motorcycle chain lube is a little too heavy of this – I’ve found).

    Even after all this I still get some grinding noises from the chain for the next 30kms, but it goes away, eventually …….

  14. alex said:
    1013 said:

    "alex" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    Quoted message said:

    I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less
    thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser
    but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain.

    yep.. nothing beats taking the chain off.. but I don't have a link on
    mine 🙂

    Breaking and rejoining a Shimano chain often ends in tears. Despite the
    technology there still seems to be an element of luck involved in
    getting it right, and you often end up having to do more than one join.

    If it ain't broke, don't break it.

    Zoom

  15. Push out the link with a chain breaker. Clean the chain with a nice organic degreaser (Kenco is great if you dont like the environment). Buy a shimano 9 speed joining link (about $3) and push it in with the chain breaker. The latest shimano links are very easy to feel when it is in the correct position. If the link ends up stiff try using the chain breaker to push the link either way a fraction and you will find it loosens up.

    Then use a proper chain lube on the chain. I personally wouldn't let WD40, RP7 etc anywhere near my chain due to their effect of dispersing oil (they work quite well in cleaning up gunked up parts). If you do use them then you really should degrease your chain anyhow. Then your back to applying a proper lubricant anyhow.

    If you have a cassette tool remove your cassette and clean it up using the degreaser also. If you dont remove the cassette be careful when using degreaser and the washing it off with a hose as you can inadvertantly force degreaser into your hub / freewheel bearings. Another option for the cassette is to remove the wheel from your bike and clean the cassette with a rag.

    This all might sound like bit of a big job but when you have the chain clean and lubbed but some routine maintenance keeps it pretty good with minimal effort. I generally run the chain through a rag and give the cassette a rag clean every couple of weeks. Then reapply lubricant. Keeps it all looking nice and shiny. (especially when you have a higher end cassette)

  16. In article <[email hidden]>,

    1013 said:

    there is such a large build up of grime

    It doesn't look pretty, but damage occurs on the inside of the chain,
    out of sight, and is caused by fine grit, not large clumps.

    --
    Shane Stanley

  17. 1013 said:

    I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot of
    build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
    and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

    Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along
    the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so
    dirty I cannot see a thing.

    How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which
    allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets?

    Thanks in advance.

    Photos of the chain, etc:
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/mtb1.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain1.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain2.jpg
    http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain3.jpg

    If it's been that bad for a while I reckon your chain is probably
    knackered anyway. Time to check the cassette and chainrings too.

    I've been using Connex joining links on all my bikes for years now. 8
    and 9 speed links only cost <$10 each and last forever (more or less)
    and they don't require tools to take off or put back on.

    --
    Nick

  18. Paulie-AU said:


    Push out the link with a chain breaker. Clean the chain with a nice
    organic degreaser (Kenco is great if you dont like the environment).
    Buy a shimano 9 speed joining link (about $3) and push it in with the
    chain breaker. The latest shimano links are very easy to feel when it
    is in the correct position. If the link ends up stiff try using the
    chain breaker to push the link either way a fraction and you will find
    it loosens up.

    Then use a proper chain lube on the chain. I personally wouldn't let
    WD40, RP7 etc anywhere near my chain due to their effect of dispersing
    oil (they work quite well in cleaning up gunked up parts). If you do
    use them then you really should degrease your chain anyhow. Then your
    back to applying a proper lubricant anyhow.

    If you have a cassette tool remove your cassette and clean it up using
    the degreaser also. If you dont remove the cassette be careful when
    using degreaser and the washing it off with a hose as you can
    inadvertantly force degreaser into your hub / freewheel bearings.
    Another option for the cassette is to remove the wheel from your bike
    and clean the cassette with a rag.

    This all might sound like bit of a big job but when you have the chain
    clean and lubbed some routine maintenance keeps it pretty good with
    minimal effort. I generally run the chain through a rag and give the
    cassette a rag clean every couple of weeks. Then reapply lubricant.
    Keeps it all looking nice and shiny. (especially when you have a higher
    end cassette)

    --
    Paulie-AU

    Paulie, you know so much... I think I might follow Lotte's bike
    maintenance method, and get Paulie to fix it!

    Tam *winning smile*

  19. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> "1013" == 1013 <[email hidden]> writes:

    1013> Thanks guys for your advice. I actually live in Sydney. My
    1013> e-mail address is unrelated to my name/location.

    *chuckle* for clarity I'm where my sig says, not where my email addy
    says ;-) Had it for over ten years and see no reason to change (too
    many mailing lists).
    --
    Cheers | ~~ __@
    Euan | ~~ _-\<,
    Melbourne, Australia | ~ (*)/ (*)

  20. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> "1013" == 1013 <[email hidden]> writes:

    1013> I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since
    1013> there is a lot of build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure
    1013> the chain is a Shimano chain and I have read that you need
    1013> special tools to remove it.

    I physically shuddered looking at those pics. Eeyuck!

    I've not had to clean something quite so...dirty so can't offer advice
    there. I *can* tell you what I do to keep mine from ever getting like
    that though.

    My lube of choice is ProLink. On a cleaned chain I put a drop of oil on
    each rivet. Nowhere else, just the rivets. That's where the wear
    occurs, if you put lube all over the chain that will just attract dirt.

    I generally do this in the evening which allows gravity to do it's work
    overnight and pull the lube through the rivets. This helps pull
    embedded grit out from between the links. In the morning I wipe the
    chain down with a clean rag, removing any excess from the surface of the
    chain.

    From then on it's a case of rinse and repeat. I do this about every
    150-200kms. Two or three minutes every 150-200 kms saves a lot of
    heartache. Every couple of weeks I take the rear wheel off and clean
    in between the cogs with a rag.

    If it rains I wipe down the chain with some paper towels and apply a bit
    of lube.

    Before going to the trouble of cleaning your chain you may want to check
    it for stretch. Dirty as it is I'm betting your chain's doing a
    passable impression of a torture victim on the rack. Previously posted
    links will tell you how to do that. If your chain's stretched forget
    about cleaning it and just get a new one.
    --
    Cheers | ~~ __@
    Euan | ~~ _-\<,
    Melbourne, Australia | ~ (*)/ (*)

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