Torque Wrenches

On Tue, 31 May 2005 09:09:54 GMT, question man <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Anybody have any other recommendations? The items that worked loose
were crank arm fixing bolts, and the lock ring for a cassette.

I bought a clicker type torque wrench at a Harbor Freight store
locally that seems to work fine. It supposedly is withing 4% of
accuracy. I compared it to a Craftsman that my neighbor has and it
was on target. I'm sure it won't last a lifetime but I use it so
rarely.

I can envision not tightening a crankbolt enough. It's difficult to
see needing a torque wrench for a cassette lockring. You can almost
put them on hand tight and they stay put. More frequently, that part
is over tightened.

BTW, has anyone noticed that if you google for "Torque Wrench",
Sheldon's site:
www.sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html
is the 2nd result? Way to go Sheldon! Has it helped sales?

Matt.

In the case of the cassette lockring, high torque is desireable. Campy
specs 37 ft-lb for theirs. It is not just a matter of it not coming
loose - the compression of the spacers and the index shifting
performance depends somewhat upon the torque used.

I have two Craftsman clicker type torque wrenches. One a half inch
drive for automotive stuff and higher torque bike applications. The
other is a 3/8 inch drive that goes up to 250 in-lb that is useful for
the lower torque bike applications. I've been happy with both of them.

On Tue, 31 May 2005 09:09:54 GMT, question man <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Anybody have any other recommendations? The items that worked loose
were crank arm fixing bolts, and the lock ring for a cassette.

For years and years I've been using a Craftsman beam type torque
wrench, probably manufactured by Sturdevant. I bought it when I was
building race engines on a budget, and although I've always sort of
coveted a clicker type wrench I've never been so concerned about the
accuracy of my current wrench to do anything about it.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

I bought my torque wrench at Sears a couple of years ago. It cost me
$19.95. It's the same model sold by Park Tools only theirs was $39.95.
I think I've used it about 5 times. Each time for tightening down
cranks.

In article <[email hidden]>,

question man said:

The two Park tools look reasonable (based on price). Curiously,
Harris lists no torque wrenches.

The Park tools are very similar to what Sears sells for 40% less.

question man said:

I've had a couple of things that I thought were tightened down
sufficiently work loose, so I think it's time to get some torque
wrenches.

Some things like Loctite. Others like grease. Beware the diff....

Quoted message said:

BikeTools Etc lists 5 torque wrenches: (watch out - URL might wrap)
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=461039372835&c=Tools&sc=Hand%20Tools&tc=Torque%20Wrenches

The two Park tools look reasonable (based on price). Curiously,
Harris lists no torque wrenches.

Not so curious, really. Sheldon doesn't believe in 'em for bicycles.

Quoted message said:

Anybody have any other recommendations? The items that worked loose
were crank arm fixing bolts, and the lock ring for a cassette.

I went to Harbor Freight (or equivalent) and bought a $20, 1/4" drive
click-type and attachments. Works just fine. Well enough, anyway, to
tell me that *my* arm is *anything but* finely calibrated....

A boatload of them -- all ranges of drive and inch(foot)-lbs capacity
-- can be found here: http://snipurl.com/f9kp

Got mine at sears for $22.95 on sale, seems to work ok.

nc

Quoted message said:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 16:48:41 GMT, Neil Brooks <[email hidden]> wrote:

question man said:

I've had a couple of things that I thought were tightened down
sufficiently work loose, so I think it's time to get some torque
wrenches.

Some things like Loctite. Others like grease. Beware the diff....

is this similar to, "Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a
banana"?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

BikeTools Etc lists 5 torque wrenches: (watch out - URL might wrap)
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=461039372835&c=Tools&sc=Hand%20Tools&tc=Torque%20Wrenches

The two Park tools look reasonable (based on price). Curiously,
Harris lists no torque wrenches.

Not so curious, really. Sheldon doesn't believe in 'em for bicycles.

Quoted message said:

Anybody have any other recommendations? The items that worked loose
were crank arm fixing bolts, and the lock ring for a cassette.

I went to Harbor Freight (or equivalent) and bought a $20, 1/4" drive
click-type and attachments. Works just fine. Well enough, anyway, to
tell me that *my* arm is *anything but* finely calibrated....

Based on all the responses, sounds like a trip to Sears is in order.
Thanks!

Phil

Quoted message said:

A boatload of them -- all ranges of drive and inch(foot)-lbs capacity
-- can be found here: http://snipurl.com/f9kp

On Tue, 31 May 2005 09:09:54 GMT, question man <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

All -

I've had a couple of things that I thought were tightened down
sufficiently work loose, so I think it's time to get some torque
wrenches.

BikeTools Etc lists 5 torque wrenches: (watch out - URL might wrap)
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=461039372835&c=Tools&sc=Hand%20Tools&tc=Torque%20Wrenches

The two Park tools look reasonable (based on price). Curiously,
Harris lists no torque wrenches.

Anybody have any other recommendations? The items that worked loose
were crank arm fixing bolts, and the lock ring for a cassette.

In my experience, crank bolts may work loose even when tightened to
factory spec exactly as per the recommended procedure. Severe
overtightening in response is not uncommon, and not a good idea in my
personal opinion. (*Some* overtorquing, however, seems prudent at
times.) I've become accustomed to the idea of checking the snugness
of the bolts once or twice after installation. I've also come to the
conclusion that Jobst has a point when he states that good dustcaps do
more than keep dust out; they also keep the crank bolt in, should it
come loose.

That said, a torque wrench may prevent the mechanically timid from
undertorquing a crank bolt, so I see no objection to using one there.

As for cassette lockrings, I've never had one come loose that *I*
installed, but I've had one come through here that the bike's owner
swore would not stay tight. I could see why. Somewhere, he'd found a
*washer* to put between the 11T and the retaining collar. I pulled
that washer out, added a shim behind the cassette to take up the slack
that he was trying to eliminate, and it hasn't come loose since.
Given the serrated face that's supposed to be present on the sprocket
and retainer, I don't think a torque wrench is necessarily the right
tool for this task.

All of that said, I prefer the click-type torque wrenches. I have six
of them, ranging from a 250 in-lb to a 350 ft-lb capacity. (Needless
to say, the largest has no real application on a bike...)
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 02:37:22 GMT, question man <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 16:48:41 GMT, Neil Brooks <[email hidden]> wrote:

question man said:

I've had a couple of things that I thought were tightened down
sufficiently work loose, so I think it's time to get some torque
wrenches.

Some things like Loctite. Others like grease. Beware the diff....

is this similar to, "Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a
banana"?

Close enough.

Quoted message said:

Based on all the responses, sounds like a trip to Sears is in order.

If you're not in a hurry, watch for Sears to put them on sale. It
happens more often in the fall, of course...
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

colocraig said:

In the case of the cassette lockring, high torque is desireable. Campy
specs 37 ft-lb for theirs. It is not just a matter of it not coming
loose - the compression of the spacers and the index shifting
performance depends somewhat upon the torque used.

I have two Craftsman clicker type torque wrenches. One a half inch
drive for automotive stuff and higher torque bike applications. The
other is a 3/8 inch drive that goes up to 250 in-lb that is useful for
the lower torque bike applications. I've been happy with both of them.

Use Craftsmans with great caution. The clicker in mine went inop. without any
warning. I was changing the clutch in my car, snapped the head off a bolt!

Michael said:

colocraig said:

In the case of the cassette lockring, high torque is desireable. Campy
specs 37 ft-lb for theirs. It is not just a matter of it not coming
loose - the compression of the spacers and the index shifting
performance depends somewhat upon the torque used.

I have two Craftsman clicker type torque wrenches. One a half inch
drive for automotive stuff and higher torque bike applications. The
other is a 3/8 inch drive that goes up to 250 in-lb that is useful for
the lower torque bike applications. I've been happy with both of them.

Use Craftsmans with great caution. The clicker in mine went inop. without any
warning. I was changing the clutch in my car, snapped the head off a bolt!

One of the reasons the simplicity of the beam type torque wrenches
with the pointer is an advantage. On a bicycle, it seems to always be
possible to arange things such that the pointer can be clearly seen
while wrenching, avoiding the one downside of this type of wrench.
Also, if you take one of these out of your tool box, look at the
pointer, and it is on zero, you can be pretty sure that the
calibration is the same as when you bought it; there just isn't
anything to go wrong. I don't see any advantage to using the click
type wrench for a bicycle.

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

In my experience, crank bolts may work loose even when tightened to
factory spec exactly as per the recommended procedure.

I've never had a crank bolt come loose when tightened to recommended factory
specs.

Quoted message said:

Severe
overtightening in response is not uncommon, and not a good idea in my
personal opinion.

A while back someone on this newsgroup did an experiment to see what would
break first, a bolt or the crank arms, when you overtighten them. The bolt
snapped before the cranks cracked.

Quoted message said:

(*Some* overtorquing, however, seems prudent at
times.) I've become accustomed to the idea of checking the snugness
of the bolts once or twice after installation.

This is bad cranks on tapered BB's. If you keep tightening them periodically,
the cranks will eventually crack.

Quoted message said:

I've also come to the
conclusion that Jobst has a point when he states that good dustcaps do
more than keep dust out; they also keep the crank bolt in, should it
come loose.

Jobst is usually right.

Quoted message said:

That said, a torque wrench may prevent the mechanically timid from
undertorquing a crank bolt, so I see no objection to using one there.

It also keeps the stronger folks from breaking parts.

Quoted message said:

As for cassette lockrings, I've never had one come loose that *I*
installed, but I've had one come through here that the bike's owner
swore would not stay tight. I could see why. Somewhere, he'd found a
*washer* to put between the 11T and the retaining collar. I pulled
that washer out, added a shim behind the cassette to take up the slack
that he was trying to eliminate, and it hasn't come loose since.
Given the serrated face that's supposed to be present on the sprocket
and retainer, I don't think a torque wrench is necessarily the right
tool for this task.

If you come up with a simple and clever solution, there will always be
someone who will screw it up.

Quoted message said:

All of that said, I prefer the click-type torque wrenches. I have six
of them, ranging from a 250 in-lb to a 350 ft-lb capacity. (Needless
to say, the largest has no real application on a bike...)

I like them too, but I understand that they need to be periodically calibrated.
This can cost a pretty penny to get done. Since I don't use them often enough
to justify initial cost and the periodic calibrations, I prefer the beam type
that never need calibration.
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Alex