replace rim vs. wheel?

(Claire Petersky) said:

I took in the bike for a minor adjustment, and the wrench said my back rim is just about shot. The
wrench, the floor guy, and me all had an earnest discussion about whether or not I should replace
the rim and have the wheel hand-built with the existing hubs (which have probably 12 - 14 K on
them), or replace the whole wheel. If I were to replace the whole wheel, I'd have a factory-built
wheel put on there, after, of course, being adjusted by the shop.

The floor guy as an aside suggested I just buy another bike. This is a consideration -- although
I'm not going to buy a new bike in the middle of the season, I might buy a new bike by the start of
the next one. So I may not want to invest oodles of money into this one. I just want to be able to
ride it -- and I'll probably ride it fairly hard -- through the next year.

Opinions?

I don't quite get "just about shot", are the sides caving in or wearing out from the break pads?
That is the only "just about" that I would buy...

You don't mention what kind of hub you have or what shape it is
in. Notwithstanding any hub issues it is almost always better swap out the rim using the original
spokes and hub.. (using the "tape 'em together" method).

"Claire Petersky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I took in the bike for a minor adjustment, and the wrench said my back rim is just about shot. The
wrench, the floor guy, and me all had an earnest discussion about whether or not I should replace
the rim and have the wheel hand-built with the existing hubs (which have probably 12 - 14 K on
them), or replace the whole wheel. If I were to replace the whole wheel, I'd have a factory-built
wheel put on there, after, of course, being adjusted by the shop.

The floor guy as an aside suggested I just buy another bike. This is a consideration -- although
I'm not going to buy a new bike in the middle of the season, I might buy a new bike by the start
of the next one. So I may not want to invest oodles of money into this one. I just want to be able
to ride it -- and I'll probably ride it fairly hard -- through the next year.

Not enough info. What's wrong with the rims, hubs & bike? Rims wear down under braking, the mechanic
should have measured the remaining wall thickness and told you what it was if that's his reasoning.
I believe 0.5 mm is the minimum safe thickness.

I just went through this in May. I just bought a rim and swapped the hub and spokes over. The rim I
got was a top-of-the-line Mavic, so the whole thing cost me about $60. It took me an hour or two to
swap, tension, true, and stress relieve.

My bike is nice, so I wouldn't junk it just for a rear wheel (even though that's usually the single
most expensive part of a bike). My hub was reasonably good (Shimano 105) with no bad wear, and a new
freehub body, so I was keeping that.

When you don't do your own work, things get a bit more complicated & expensive. Most mechanics won't
re-use spokes because of the time involved. I had nice spokes so I kept mine. That required using a
rim with the same effective diameter. I could have used a cheaper rim, but that meant new spokes, so
no net gain.

Having a wheel "rebuilt" with new rim and spokes seems like a not so great deal next to a
factory-built wheel, unless you need something special, or have a terrific hub you're trying to
save. If you want/need LBS service levels, then you have to pay those prices, and that makes some
choices more economical than others.

(Claire Petersky) said:

I took in the bike for a minor adjustment, and the wrench said my back rim is just about shot. The
wrench, the floor guy, and me all had an earnest discussion about whether or not I should replace
the rim and have the wheel hand-built with the existing hubs (which have probably 12 - 14 K on
them), or replace the whole wheel. If I were to replace the whole wheel, I'd have a factory-built
wheel put on there, after, of course, being adjusted by the shop.

The floor guy as an aside suggested I just buy another bike. This is a consideration -- although
I'm not going to buy a new bike in the middle of the season, I might buy a new bike by the start of
the next one. So I may not want to invest oodles of money into this one. I just want to be able to
ride it -- and I'll probably ride it fairly hard -- through the next year.

If there's really nothing wrong with the rear hub, I'd suggest just lacing a new rim onto the wheel.
With a bit of care, you can get one that has the same rough dimensions as your old one. The spokes
are "as good as new", so there's nothing to gain from replacing them.

It's best to do this yourself (it's about the easiest entre into wheel building there is). If you
have a riding buddy who can help you through the fine points of tensioning the wheel, even better.

Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles habcycles.comhabcycles.comOpen ↗ Home of the $695 ti frame

Claire Petersky said:

I took in the bike for a minor adjustment, and the wrench said my back rim is just about shot. The
wrench, the floor guy, and me all had an earnest discussion about whether or not I should replace
the rim and have the wheel hand-built with the existing hubs (which have probably 12 - 14 K on
them), or replace the whole wheel. If I were to replace the whole wheel, I'd have a factory-built
wheel put on there, after, of course, being adjusted by the shop.

Rims are $15-$30. Rims are service-replacement parts, just like chains, or tires.

Quoted message said:

The floor guy as an aside suggested I just buy another bike. This is a consideration

Huh? Your rim is bent, so you are going to buy another bike? When the ashtray gets filled up, do you
buy another car?

Not to say that you couldn't buy a new bike, but the rim should not be the reason.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | When you are up to your ass in alligators, it's hard to remember _`\(,_ | that your initial
objective was to drain the swamp. -- LBJ (_)/ (_) |

In article <[email hidden]>, Claire Petersky

Quoted message said:

I took in the bike for a minor adjustment, and the wrench said my back rim is just about shot. The
wrench, the floor guy, and me all had an earnest discussion about whether or not I should replace
the rim and have the wheel hand-built with the existing hubs (which have probably 12 - 14 K on
them), or replace the whole wheel. If I were to replace the whole wheel, I'd have a factory-built
wheel put on there, after, of course, being adjusted by the shop.

The floor guy as an aside suggested I just buy another bike. This is a consideration -- although
I'm not going to buy a new bike in the middle of the season, I might buy a new bike by the start of
the next one. So I may not want to invest oodles of money into this one. I just want to be able to
ride it -- and I'll probably ride it fairly hard -- through the next year.

Opinions?

This depends on a lot of things:

- what they charge for the rebuild
- whether they build good wheels at that shop
- what rim they propose
- whether the hub is worth it
- how much the factory built wheel costs
- whether there are other problems with the bike
- how much you want that shiny new one

No, forget it, I can tell you want the new one. Credit is always available.

--Paul

"ajames54" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I don't quite get "just about shot", are the sides caving in or wearing out from the break pads?
That is the only "just about" that I would buy...

Having looked at hundreds of wheels, there are other "just about shot" causes..rim dents, physical
bends, flat spots, corrosion, eyelets breaking, twisting, rattling......

Quoted message said:

You don't mention what kind of hub you have or what shape it is
in. Notwithstanding any hub issues it is almost always better swap out the rim using the original
spokes and hub.. (using the "tape 'em together" method).

Yup..you can usually find cheap rims from a year or two ago that are no longer fashionable..get it
close in diameter, use the same spokes and you're rolling for $15 and an hour's time.

Cheers,

Scott..

Mark Hickey <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

(Claire Petersky) said:

I took in the bike for a minor adjustment, and the wrench said my back rim is just about shot.
The wrench, the floor guy, and me all had an earnest discussion about whether or not I should
replace the rim and have the wheel hand-built with the existing hubs (which have probably 12 - 14
K on them), or replace the whole wheel. If I were to replace the whole wheel, I'd have a
factory-built wheel put on there, after, of course, being adjusted by the shop.

The floor guy as an aside suggested I just buy another bike.

I don't understand why it is so hard to get prudent technical information on this site.

If the floor guy was actually present, witnessed the situation with the rear wheel, and suggested a
new bike, then these folks who are trying to tell you otherwise over the net are whacked.

Clearly, go with the floor guy. I wouldn't think of simply replacing the rear rim, or wheel, for
fear that by doing so the phase shift ramifications of compounded opportunity cost will have you
back-flipping like a right handed smoke shifter.

A new bike is the mechanical universal solvent.

Trust the floor guy.

Only he truly wants to help you.

ajames54 <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:... said:

I don't quite get "just about shot", are the sides caving in or wearing out from the break pads?
That is the only "just about" that I would buy...

That's exactly the situation. You can run your finger on the rim and feel a deep groove. I don't
believe it was measured, but you can feel it pretty clearly. You can also see it as a wear pattern
on the brakes.

It's pretty mucky here through much of the year, and I ride as a commuter year round, so it isn't
totally out of line for the rear hub to be wearing out. The front still is okay.

Anyway, I got a call this afternoon -- as it stands now, the factory wheel is out of stock, so it's
not even an option.

Thank you for your advice.

Warm Regards,

Claire Petersky ([email hidden]) Home of the meditative cyclist:
home.earthlink.netWelcome.htmOpen ↗

Quoted message said:

The floor guy as an aside suggested I just buy another bike.

If he did this, and your bike is a Walmart or Costco bike, he said this because it wouldn't be worth
replacing the rim when there is so much more that can go wrong with the rest of the bike, especially
with 12-14k on them.

Rim replacement is a gooder option.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

David L. Johnson said:

Huh? Your rim is bent, so you are going to buy another bike? When the ashtray gets filled up, do
you buy another car?

Not to say that you couldn't buy a new bike, but the rim should not be the reason.

Well, there are certainly bikes around in price ranges that replacing the rim on the wheel,
plus labour and possibly spokes if they don't do reusing, is 3/4 of the cost or more of a
completely new bike.

Jasper

S. Anderson said:

"ajames54" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I don't quite get "just about shot", are the sides caving in or wearing out from the break pads?
That is the only "just about" that I would buy...

Having looked at hundreds of wheels, there are other "just about shot" causes..rim dents, physical
bends, flat spots, corrosion, eyelets breaking, twisting, rattling......

Different definitions for shot I guess... half of those are "fixable" and half are "totally shot" .n
my lexicon but then I'm a cheap [censored] ... <grin>.

Claire-<< I took in the bike for a minor adjustment, and the wrench said my back rim is just about
shot. The wrench, the floor guy, and me all had an earnest discussion about whether or not I should
replace the rim and have the wheel hand-built with the existing hubs (which have probably 12 - 14 K
on them), or replace the whole wheel. >><BR><BR>

First gotta ask why the rear wheel is 'shot' agfter only 14k.

The sales guy really didn't suggest that you buy a new bike instead of having the wheel
fixed, did he??

They guy should be shown a job application for some other type store.

<< Opinions? >><BR><BR>

If they have a wheel builder that has some sort of skill, use the old hub, have a hand
built wheel laced to it. If they give you the 'thousand yard stare' when you ask about a
new wheel...they probably can't tension, true, dish, round and stress relieve a factory
wheel either.

Find the old grumpy guy in the back...have him build you a wheel-normally about $75 or so-

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

David-<< Rims are $15-$30. Rims are service-replacement parts, just like chains, or tires.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<BR><BR>

I wish...not a lot(none?) rims available that are $15 retail. Only one that is $30, some at $40,
lots at $60+

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

David L. Johnson said:

Rims are $15-$30.

Whoa! Either you haven't shopped lately, or I want to shop in your neighborhood!

What rims/where are you finding good ones for $15? All I see these days are the silly multi-colored
$60+ each items.

Mark (yearning for the days of $15 rims) Janeba (adjust address to reply)

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Claire-<< I took in the bike for a minor adjustment, and the wrench said my back rim is just about
shot. The wrench, the floor guy, and me all had an earnest discussion about whether or not I
should replace the rim and have the wheel hand-built with the existing hubs (which have probably
12 - 14 K on them), or replace the whole wheel. >><BR><BR>

First gotta ask why the rear wheel is 'shot' agfter only 14k.

Commuting in slimy weather with lots of braking will do that. I wore the rear rim on my commuter to
failure (which was exciting) in probably fewer miles.

For Claire - unless the bike is a trashy one, rim replacement is a good idea.

Mark (Bang!) Janeba (adjust address to reply)

Mark Janeba said:

David L. Johnson said:

Rims are $15-$30.

Whoa! Either you haven't shopped lately, or I want to shop in your neighborhood!

What rims/where are you finding good ones for $15? All I see these days are the silly
multi-colored $60+ each items.

Mark (yearning for the days of $15 rims) Janeba

MA3 are about that price. OK, $30 at nashbar now, but often on sale for like 20. I got a Rhyno Lite
for $20 and a CR-18 for $30 from Branford.

Usually I get my rims from swap meets, to be honest. There, $15 is a lot.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | This is my religion. There is no need for temples; no need for _`\(,_ | complicated
philosophy. Our own brain, our own heart is our (_)/ (_) | temple. The philosophy is kindness.
--The Dalai Lama

Mark Janeba said:

Quoted message said:

First gotta ask why the rear wheel is 'shot' agfter only 14k.

Commuting in slimy weather with lots of braking will do that.

I agree. Also, road conditions and rider/stuff weight add to the variability.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Arguing with an engineer is like mud wrestling with a pig... You _`\(,_ | soon find out the
pig likes it! (_)/ (_) |

Claire Petersky said:

You can run your finger on the rim and feel a deep groove. I don't believe it was measured, but
you can feel it pretty clearly. You can also see it as a wear pattern on the brakes.

The price you pay for riding in the soggy PNW, I guess. If you're not using KoolStop salmon pads,
you should be. They're much less destructive of rims when ridden in the wet. I have 13K on my
current rims, with no sign of wear.
--
terry morse Palo Alto, CA terrymorse.combikeOpen ↗

Mark Janeba said:

What rims/where are you finding good ones for $15? All I see these days are the silly multi-colored
$60+ each items.

Well, at a local mailorder place, rims under 15 euro include: Weinmann ZAC19 and 2000, Rigid
Ultimate and Nova, Vuelta Airline 3 and Corsa, and several FIRs. Dunno whether you'd consider those
good, but there they are. 15-20 includes MA-3s, and various other Mavic/Ritchey/Vuelta models, with
the Open Pros weighing in at 34 euros each. They actually had MA-2s in the pricelist this morning
for 15 euros, but those are apparently sold out now -- they've removed them from the pricelist
though they're still in my shopping basket and now I can't get them out anymore because the item
number doesn't exist any more.. slight bug in the webshop code.

Jasper