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Chain Replacement

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Cycling Equipment
Published
31 March 2005
Last activity
6 April 2005
Original author
Jim
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  1. Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    Chain wear is more affected by sprocket size than chain line. The
    angle through which the chain links rotate under load (exiting for
    driven and entering for driving sprockets) is the main effect. The
    larger the sprocket the smaller the angle of bend and the less wear on
    the chain. A 13t sprocket has four ties the wear of a 52t sprocket
    engagement.

    Which means that I'll see greater chain wear now that I've switched to a
    compact crank. Oh well...


    Maybe you ought to use a non-shimano chain...Wipperman/Mavic works well
    as does the Sram PC-89(6.1mm). The new for shimano 10s Wipperman as
    well. Altho saeemingly more flexible when new, I have never been
    impressed with shimano chains.

  2. Peter said:

    The tension on the typical tandem synch chain is entirely determined by
    the force exerted on the pedals by the front rider and the relative
    sizes of the front crank vs. timing chainring. What the rear rider does
    and how well he/she is working together with the person in front doesn't
    affect the synch chain.

    Aren't the chainrings on the timing side always the same size? You are
    implying that they can differ, but that would cause continually changing
    phase.

    If the stoker does not "work together" with the captain it certainly
    does affect the synch chain, because there will be force variations
    which even act in opposition at times.

    It's also important to note that the timing rings are not really
    coplanar when a tandem is ridden, so there is a little cross-chaining.
    The bottom tube is bent along its axis under the application of power,
    as is evident by observation of chain sag. In extreme cases, I have
    seen a properly adjusted timing chain come off a chain ring.

    --
    Ted Bennett
    Portland, OR

  3. Ted said:
    Peter said:

    The tension on the typical tandem synch chain is entirely determined by
    the force exerted on the pedals by the front rider and the relative
    sizes of the front crank vs. timing chainring. What the rear rider does
    and how well he/she is working together with the person in front doesn't
    affect the synch chain.

    Aren't the chainrings on the timing side always the same size? You are
    implying that they can differ, but that would cause continually changing
    phase.

    No, I'm not implying that at all. The front rider pushes down on the
    pedal with a lever arm equal to the crank length, say 170mm, while the
    timing chain is attached at a lever arm distance equal to the radius of
    its chainring, say that's 85mm. The tension in the timing chain will
    then be the force exerted by the rider on the pedal multiplied by the
    ratio of the lever arm lengths (in this case 2:1).

    BTW, we did actually use different size timing rings (40 and 38) for
    awhile with a kid-back arrangement on our tandem. It did mean that my
    daughter and I had a slowly changing phase but with her lighter weight
    and power it wasn't an issue.

    Quoted message said:


    If the stoker does not "work together" with the captain it certainly
    does affect the synch chain, because there will be force variations
    which even act in opposition at times.

    Even if the stoker were to actively try to pedal backwards, the timing
    chain tension would still be determined by how hard the front rider is
    pushing down on his/her pedal. Note that if the front rider takes
    his/her feet off the pedals there's no way for the stoker to create any
    significant tension in the timing chain since the front crank will just
    spin freely. [Assuming the usual tandem arrangement where the drive
    chain is engages the stoker's chainring.]

    Quoted message said:


    It's also important to note that the timing rings are not really
    coplanar when a tandem is ridden, so there is a little cross-chaining.
    The bottom tube is bent along its axis under the application of power,
    as is evident by observation of chain sag. In extreme cases, I have
    seen a properly adjusted timing chain come off a chain ring.

    It's also not uncommon for there to be a slight misalignment between the
    two chainrings, but it's much smaller than seen in most gears on the
    multi-speed drive chain.

    But my point was that the difference in chain life between the timing
    chain and the drive chain can be explained by the facts that the driving
    chain is transmitting the power from both riders whereas the timing
    chain only does so from the front rider and the driving chain is acting
    on a small cog and therefore bends much more under load than the timing
    chain which is acting on a chainring that's typically considerably
    larger. So the longer life is not a good indication that it's the
    result of a better chainline.

  4. In message <[email hidden]>, Peter
    <[email hidden]> writes

    Quoted message said:
    Ted said:
    Peter said:

    The tension on the typical tandem synch chain is entirely determined
    by the force exerted on the pedals by the front rider and the
    relative sizes of the front crank vs. timing chainring. What the
    rear rider does and how well he/she is working together with the
    person in front doesn't affect the synch chain.

    A very strong and fast spinning stoker could leave a weak captain unable
    to contribute useful effort and thereby unload the timing chain. I agree
    that this is not typical.

    Quoted message said:


    But my point was that the difference in chain life between the timing
    chain and the drive chain can be explained by the facts that the
    driving chain is transmitting the power from both riders whereas the
    timing chain only does so from the front rider and the driving chain is
    acting on a small cog and therefore bends much more under load than the
    timing chain which is acting on a chainring that's typically
    considerably larger. So the longer life is not a good indication that
    it's the result of a better chainline.


    My guess is that poor chain line and the lateral snaking over the
    cassette during changes does reduce chain life on external gear bikes.
    The only half decent chain (intended for BMX) we have on a hub gear bike
    is showing no significant wear even though it has not been cleaned and
    very seldom lubricated in three years of very regular use including some
    use on trails. Our other hub gear bikes get by with old cheapest chain
    and only slight wear.

    It will be interesting to see how the Thorn Rohloff hub gear tandems get
    on for chain life. Here again the larger sprocket should help just as
    you say for the timing chain.

    Maintaining the transmission on an external gear tandem is tedious and
    expensive - more expensive per distance covered than maintaining a
    modest car in our experience although the tables will turn once the car
    gets into serious old age.
    --

    Martyn Aldis, e-mail [email hidden]
    ==============================================================================

  5. Martyn Aldis said:

    In message <[email hidden]>, Peter
    <[email hidden]> writes

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > The tension on the typical tandem synch chain is entirely determined
    > by the force exerted on the pedals by the front rider and the
    > relative sizes of the front crank vs. timing chainring. What the
    > rear rider does and how well he/she is working together with the
    > person in front doesn't affect the synch chain.

    A very strong and fast spinning stoker could leave a weak captain unable
    to contribute useful effort and thereby unload the timing chain. I agree
    that this is not typical.


    Agreed. The tension (or lack thereof) would still be related to the
    force of the captain on the pedals but the stoker would be affecting it
    indirectly by spinning so fast that the captain can't exert much force.

    Quoted message said:

    My guess is that poor chain line and the lateral snaking over the
    cassette during changes does reduce chain life on external gear bikes.

    I also agree that the misaligned chain on derailleur systems will hurt
    chain life. Just disagreeing that the long life of timing chains vs.
    drive chains is good evidence for that.

    Quoted message said:

    The only half decent chain (intended for BMX) we have on a hub gear bike
    is showing no significant wear even though it has not been cleaned and
    very seldom lubricated in three years of very regular use including some
    use on trails. Our other hub gear bikes get by with old cheapest chain
    and only slight wear.

    It will be interesting to see how the Thorn Rohloff hub gear tandems get
    on for chain life. Here again the larger sprocket should help just as
    you say for the timing chain.

    Maintaining the transmission on an external gear tandem is tedious and
    expensive - more expensive per distance covered than maintaining a
    modest car in our experience although the tables will turn once the car
    gets into serious old age.

    Rear tire life on tandems is also distressingly short.

    Part of the problem is that the tandem market is too small to justify
    special designs of all the drivetrain components. Using designs
    appropriate for single bikes for a tandem application leads to severe
    reduction of the component lifetime.

  6. More then 12 inches pin to pin. Sand,water,pedal
    force,and the sharpe of other parts in the drivetrain all have something
    to do with the life of a chain.Also the quality of the chain.

  7. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Chain wear is more affected by sprocket size than chain line. The
    angle through which the chain links rotate under load (exiting for
    driven and entering for driving sprockets) is the main effect. The
    larger the sprocket the smaller the angle of bend and the less wear on
    the chain. A 13t sprocket has four ties the wear of a 52t sprocket
    engagement.

    Which means that I'll see greater chain wear now that I've switched to a
    compact crank. Oh well...


    Maybe you ought to use a non-shimano chain...Wipperman/Mavic works well as
    does the Sram PC-89(6.1mm). The new for shimano 10s Wipperman as well.
    Altho saeemingly more flexible when new, I have never been impressed with
    shimano chains.

    I've always found front shifting performance to be better with Shimano
    chains than Wipperman or SRAM. The KMC chains I've tried have worked very
    well though.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

  8. Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >Chain wear is more affected by sprocket size than chain line. The
    >angle through which the chain links rotate under load (exiting for
    >driven and entering for driving sprockets) is the main effect. The
    >larger the sprocket the smaller the angle of bend and the less wear on
    >the chain. A 13t sprocket has four ties the wear of a 52t sprocket
    >engagement.

    Which means that I'll see greater chain wear now that I've switched to a
    compact crank. Oh well...

    Maybe you ought to use a non-shimano chain...Wipperman/Mavic works well as
    does the Sram PC-89(6.1mm). The new for shimano 10s Wipperman as well.
    Altho saeemingly more flexible when new, I have never been impressed with
    shimano chains.

    I've always found front shifting performance to be better with Shimano
    chains than Wipperman or SRAM. The KMC chains I've tried have worked very
    well though.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    Maybe you ought to try a Campagnolo left ERGO then and the shifting
    performance will improve........

  9. Quoted message said:

    Maybe you ought to try a Campagnolo left ERGO then and the shifting
    performance will improve........

    On my mountain bike? Might look kinda silly. But then, me on a mountain bike
    *always* looks kinda silly.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:1112449986.d0a26399017921ac95e1aa01b6df236b@teranews...

    Quoted message said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    >>Chain wear is more affected by sprocket size than chain line. The
    >>angle through which the chain links rotate under load (exiting for
    >>driven and entering for driving sprockets) is the main effect. The
    >>larger the sprocket the smaller the angle of bend and the less wear on
    >>the chain. A 13t sprocket has four ties the wear of a 52t sprocket
    >>engagement.
    >
    >
    >Which means that I'll see greater chain wear now that I've switched to a
    >compact crank. Oh well...
    >

    Maybe you ought to use a non-shimano chain...Wipperman/Mavic works well
    as does the Sram PC-89(6.1mm). The new for shimano 10s Wipperman as well.
    Altho saeemingly more flexible when new, I have never been impressed with
    shimano chains.

    I've always found front shifting performance to be better with Shimano
    chains than Wipperman or SRAM. The KMC chains I've tried have worked very
    well though.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    Maybe you ought to try a Campagnolo left ERGO then and the shifting
    performance will improve........

  10. Bob Untrained said:
    Quoted message said:

    Use the least expensive compatible chain, BTW, just like engine
    oil.

    Quoted message said:

    That may not be the best advice (for the car).

    Oh? And I suppose one should not switch brands of gasoline because
    the engine is used to one kind. I always buy Union Oil no less. It
    costs more and must be better therefore.

    [email hidden]

  11. Mike Jacoubowsky said:
    Quoted message said:

    Maybe you ought to try a Campagnolo left ERGO then and the shifting
    performance will improve........

    On my mountain bike? Might look kinda silly. But then, me on a mountain bike
    *always* looks kinda silly.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


    Campag flat bar shifter, compatible front der...

  12. Bob said:
    Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    Use the least expensive compatible chain, BTW, just like engine oil.

    That may not be the best advice (for the car).

    I just talked about this very subject with two respected car machanics.
    One that works on my kid's Ford and the one that works on my VW. They
    both said the same thing. Today's rated engine oil is very good, any of
    it or it wouldn't be 'rated'...By using additives or 'special' oils you
    waste your $ cuz they all get dirty and all need to be changed
    regularly. They both recommended the '3000' mile interval.

  13. Quoted message said:
    Bob Untrained said:
    Quoted message said:

    Use the least expensive compatible chain, BTW, just like engine
    oil.

    Quoted message said:

    That may not be the best advice (for the car).

    Oh? And I suppose one should not switch brands of gasoline because
    the engine is used to one kind. I always buy Union Oil no less. It
    costs more and must be better therefore.

    As I understand it, different manufacturers add different "additive packages" to
    the base unleaded gasoline to complete their product. People Who Should Know
    (tm) tell me that it is best to not mix them. Same with oils.

    Anyway, not so much that the car's used to one or the other, but staying with a
    particular product gives you a fuel or lubricant that has been engineered to
    work. Mixing them does not.

    Ron

  14. RonSonic said:

    As I understand it, different manufacturers add different "additive packages" to
    the base unleaded gasoline to complete their product. People Who Should Know
    (tm) tell me that it is best to not mix them. Same with oils.

    Those "people who should know", do they, by any chance, sell a particular
    brand of gas and oil?

    Quoted message said:

    Anyway, not so much that the car's used to one or the other, but staying
    with a particular product gives you a fuel or lubricant that has been
    engineered to work.

    Others are not "engineered to work"?

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | And though I have the gift of prophecy, and understand all
    _`\(,_ | mysteries, and all knowledge; and though I have all faith, so
    (_)/ (_) | that I could remove mountains, and have not charity, I am
    nothing. [1 Corinth. 13:2]

  15. Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    I've always found front shifting performance to be better with Shimano
    chains than Wipperman or SRAM. The KMC chains I've tried have worked very
    well though.

    I agree, particularly for front, chainring shifts. Not for 10 sp
    however.

  16. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Maybe you ought to try a Campagnolo left ERGO then and the shifting
    performance will improve........

    Quoted message said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    On my mountain bike? Might look kinda silly. But then, me on a
    mountain bike *always* looks kinda silly.

    Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    Campag flat bar shifter, compatible front der...

    Sorry, not so.

    We're selling Campagnolo flat bar shfters now and the front
    is 'click' like brand S.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  17. Quoted message said:
    Mike Jacoubowsky said:

    I've always found front shifting performance to be better with Shimano
    chains than Wipperman or SRAM. The KMC chains I've tried have worked very
    well though.

    Paul Kopit said:

    I agree, particularly for front, chainring shifts. Not for 10 sp
    however.

    Really? KMC-10 (the box with the Campagnolo logo) is our
    preferred new bike chain.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  18. Ron Sonic? said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Use the least expensive compatible chain, BTW, just like engine
    > oil.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    That may not be the best advice (for the car).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Oh? And I suppose one should not switch brands of gasoline because
    the engine is used to one kind. I always buy Union Oil no less.
    It costs more and must be better therefore.

    Quoted message said:

    As I understand it, different manufacturers add different "additive
    packages" to the base unleaded gasoline to complete their
    product. People Who Should Know (tm) tell me that it is best to not
    mix them. Same with oils.

    Self serving advice. Just consider damage caused by adding Chevron
    motor oil to your Shell lubricated engine in a pinch and incurring
    engine damage. Such a manufacturer would be open to enormous damage
    claims. Besides, you ought to visit the refineries in your area to
    see what tankers line up to get filled. Terrible Herbst and Rotten
    Robbie as well as many other independents are filled at these noted
    brand name installations.

    Oh yes, and always clean off any grease on a new chain before use,
    because it's only a preservative!!! (I've heard said.)

    Quoted message said:

    Anyway, not so much that the car's used to one or the other, but
    staying with a particular product gives you a fuel or lubricant that
    has been engineered to work. Mixing them does not.

    I'm glad to hear you are brand loyal. Maybe you can explain what the
    advantage in that belief is.

    [email hidden]

  19. A Muzi said:

    Sorry, not so.

    We're selling Campagnolo flat bar shfters now and the front is 'click'
    like brand S.

    I know Andy, but it probably works better than the 'S' ones..

  20. Quoted message said:
    Ron Sonic? said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> Use the least expensive compatible chain, BTW, just like engine
    >> oil.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > That may not be the best advice (for the car).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Oh? And I suppose one should not switch brands of gasoline because
    the engine is used to one kind. I always buy Union Oil no less.
    It costs more and must be better therefore.

    Quoted message said:

    As I understand it, different manufacturers add different "additive
    packages" to the base unleaded gasoline to complete their
    product. People Who Should Know (tm) tell me that it is best to not
    mix them. Same with oils.

    Self serving advice. Just consider damage caused by adding Chevron
    motor oil to your Shell lubricated engine in a pinch and incurring
    engine damage. Such a manufacturer would be open to enormous damage
    claims. Besides, you ought to visit the refineries in your area to
    see what tankers line up to get filled. Terrible Herbst and Rotten
    Robbie as well as many other independents are filled at these noted
    brand name installations.

    No doubt. We know that all of these products are based on a common stock shared
    and standardized throughout the industry. We also know that each company adds
    it's own additives as they load the trucks at the pumping station. Who knows
    what goes into the off-brand trucks. In the old days that was a favorite way of
    getting rid of various toxic byproducts, just mix 'em into the gasoline.

    Quoted message said:

    Oh yes, and always clean off any grease on a new chain before use,
    because it's only a preservative!!! (I've heard said.)

    Quoted message said:

    Anyway, not so much that the car's used to one or the other, but
    staying with a particular product gives you a fuel or lubricant that
    has been engineered to work. Mixing them does not.

    I'm glad to hear you are brand loyal. Maybe you can explain what the
    advantage in that belief is.

    Sorry, no brand loyalty. Just a knowledge that the combination of additives in
    any brand is tested to work well and that a combination with any other brand
    isn't.

    Now do I think it's a big deal? Certainly not with gasoline, where a
    manufacturer who produced something notably incompatible with other brands would
    certainly hear from the rest of the industry. But, genuine chemical engineers
    tell me that in the case of motor oils this possible incompatibility is enough
    of a factor as to discourage mixing.

    Ron

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