light battery

..
"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I own a cateye RL-220 I think its called but this post will Be the same for
all Lights with a battery that if mounted seperatly.

I would like to wire in a second battery to increase runtime as at the
moment I get a maximum of two hours. I do not want to increase the
brightness of the light I dont think this is possible anyway. I am only
interested in the runtime. I have found a place to source the battery from
and all I need now is to know wheter it is a series connection or a
parrallel connection that I need. Does anyone know?

in series the voltages are added together and would give a brighter light
or burn out if incandesent. Parallel keeps the volts the same but adds the
current together and should increase run time.

"rdd" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

.
"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I own a cateye RL-220 I think its called but this post will Be the same

for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

all Lights with a battery that if mounted seperatly.

I would like to wire in a second battery to increase runtime as at the
moment I get a maximum of two hours. I do not want to increase the
brightness of the light I dont think this is possible anyway. I am only
interested in the runtime. I have found a place to source the battery

from

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and all I need now is to know wheter it is a series connection or a
parrallel connection that I need. Does anyone know?

in series the voltages are added together and would give a brighter light
or burn out if incandesent. Parallel keeps the volts the same but adds the
current together and should increase run time.

Cheers !
I knew i should has listened in school. lol
I was expecting at least 20 people to start telling me this is a bad idea
for various reasons

Most helpful

Fish

Quoted message said:

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"rdd" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

.
"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I own a cateye RL-220 I think its called but this post will Be the same

for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

all Lights with a battery that if mounted seperatly.

I would like to wire in a second battery to increase runtime as at the
moment I get a maximum of two hours. I do not want to increase the
brightness of the light I dont think this is possible anyway. I am

only

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

interested in the runtime. I have found a place to source the battery

from

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

and all I need now is to know wheter it is a series connection or a
parrallel connection that I need. Does anyone know?

in series the voltages are added together and would give a brighter

light

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

or burn out if incandesent. Parallel keeps the volts the same but adds

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

current together and should increase run time.

Cheers !
I knew i should has listened in school. lol
I was expecting at least 20 people to start telling me this is a bad idea
for various reasons

Most helpful

Fish

Then let me be number 1!

Right, the problem is this - no two batteries are going to have identical
charge and discharge characteristics, even if both new and of the same make
and model etc. and you have one used, and one new. This means one battery
will be trying to charge the other, and you will likely end up with one or
two damaged batteries after time, or it may even cause a fire (SEEN IT!!!).

The answer to this is to either make it so you can *switch* between
batteries when one runs low, or you have to connect them in parallel, but
only on the negative side directly, then, from each battery positive, you
must have a diode connected, then connect the remaining end of each diode
together, and take your positive feed from there. This ensures that power
can only flow fro thebatteries to the load (bulb), and not from battery to
battery. You will lose a tiny bit of overall voltage, due to the forward
bias needs of the diode (0 point something of a volt, depending on the
actual diode - likely around 0.6 of a volt).

make sure you purchase/raid diodes of sufficient current handling capacity
for your load, then plus some - say the load takes 5 amps max. - use diodes
that are rated at 7 minimum, IMNSHO!

Always re-charge each battery separately also, each with diode disconnected
from the + terminal.

Hope I've been of some help here!

',;~}~

Shaun aRe

"Shaun aRe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"rdd" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

.
"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
>I own a cateye RL-220 I think its called but this post will Be the

same

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for

Quoted message said:

> all Lights with a battery that if mounted seperatly.
>
> I would like to wire in a second battery to increase runtime as at

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> moment I get a maximum of two hours. I do not want to increase the
> brightness of the light I dont think this is possible anyway. I am

only

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> interested in the runtime. I have found a place to source the

battery

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

from

Quoted message said:

> and all I need now is to know wheter it is a series connection or a
> parrallel connection that I need. Does anyone know?
>
>

in series the voltages are added together and would give a brighter

light

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

or burn out if incandesent. Parallel keeps the volts the same but adds

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

current together and should increase run time.

Cheers !
I knew i should has listened in school. lol
I was expecting at least 20 people to start telling me this is a bad

idea

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for various reasons

Most helpful

Fish

Then let me be number 1!

Right, the problem is this - no two batteries are going to have identical
charge and discharge characteristics, even if both new and of the same

make

Quoted message said:

and model etc. and you have one used, and one new. This means one battery
will be trying to charge the other, and you will likely end up with one or
two damaged batteries after time, or it may even cause a fire (SEEN

IT!!!).

Quoted message said:

The answer to this is to either make it so you can *switch* between
batteries when one runs low, or you have to connect them in parallel, but
only on the negative side directly, then, from each battery positive, you
must have a diode connected, then connect the remaining end of each diode
together, and take your positive feed from there. This ensures that power
can only flow fro thebatteries to the load (bulb), and not from battery to
battery. You will lose a tiny bit of overall voltage, due to the forward
bias needs of the diode (0 point something of a volt, depending on the
actual diode - likely around 0.6 of a volt).

make sure you purchase/raid diodes of sufficient current handling capacity
for your load, then plus some - say the load takes 5 amps max. - use

diodes

Quoted message said:

that are rated at 7 minimum, IMNSHO!

Always re-charge each battery separately also, each with diode

disconnected

Quoted message said:

from the + terminal.

Where to start Im posting this not to prove you wrong Im posting this so
that anyone else who read's this post with a similar idea Will have all the
facts.

The reason I want two batterys is so I get (potentually) 4 hours run time
without that annoying phase where the battery starts to discharghe in the
middle. which would make a switch pointless .I may as well just carry a
second battery.

The charger I have can only charge one at a time anyway. so thats not a
rpoblem

I was going to include diodes Fuses and mayby even a swith to a much smaller
battery as a get me home emergency light just in case I use up all of my
battery power and I still need to get home this woundnt need to be a bright
light just enough to get me seen, because you never really know whats going
to happen on a bike.

Quoted message said:

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Shaun aRe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"rdd" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
> .
> "Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
> news:[email hidden]...
> >I own a cateye RL-220 I think its called but this post will Be the

same

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for
> > all Lights with a battery that if mounted seperatly.
> >
> > I would like to wire in a second battery to increase runtime as at

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > moment I get a maximum of two hours. I do not want to increase the
> > brightness of the light I dont think this is possible anyway. I am

only

Quoted message said:

> > interested in the runtime. I have found a place to source the

battery

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

from
> > and all I need now is to know wheter it is a series connection or a
> > parrallel connection that I need. Does anyone know?
> >
> >
>
> in series the voltages are added together and would give a brighter

light

Quoted message said:

> or burn out if incandesent. Parallel keeps the volts the same but
> adds

the

Quoted message said:

> current together and should increase run time.

Cheers !
I knew i should has listened in school. lol
I was expecting at least 20 people to start telling me this is a bad

idea

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for various reasons

Most helpful

Fish

Then let me be number 1!

Right, the problem is this - no two batteries are going to have identical
charge and discharge characteristics, even if both new and of the same

make

Quoted message said:

and model etc. and you have one used, and one new. This means one battery
will be trying to charge the other, and you will likely end up with one
or
two damaged batteries after time, or it may even cause a fire (SEEN

IT!!!).

Quoted message said:

The answer to this is to either make it so you can *switch* between
batteries when one runs low, or you have to connect them in parallel, but
only on the negative side directly, then, from each battery positive, you
must have a diode connected, then connect the remaining end of each diode
together, and take your positive feed from there. This ensures that power
can only flow fro thebatteries to the load (bulb), and not from battery
to
battery. You will lose a tiny bit of overall voltage, due to the forward
bias needs of the diode (0 point something of a volt, depending on the
actual diode - likely around 0.6 of a volt).

make sure you purchase/raid diodes of sufficient current handling
capacity
for your load, then plus some - say the load takes 5 amps max. - use

diodes

Quoted message said:

that are rated at 7 minimum, IMNSHO!

Always re-charge each battery separately also, each with diode

disconnected

Quoted message said:

from the + terminal.

Where to start Im posting this not to prove you wrong Im posting this so
that anyone else who read's this post with a similar idea Will have all
the
facts.

The reason I want two batterys is so I get (potentually) 4 hours run time
without that annoying phase where the battery starts to discharghe in the
middle. which would make a switch pointless .I may as well just carry a
second battery.

The charger I have can only charge one at a time anyway. so thats not a
rpoblem

I was going to include diodes Fuses and mayby even a swith to a much
smaller
battery as a get me home emergency light just in case I use up all of my
battery power and I still need to get home this woundnt need to be a
bright
light just enough to get me seen, because you never really know whats
going
to happen on a bike.

Quoted message said:

Have you considered getting a bike light with Bright White LED's?

I have a Cateye HL-EL300. I've not run the batteries out yet and the spot
it produces is very clear, (i'd say it can project the spot well over 60ft.)
I can't remember runtimes on it, but as soon as battery power drops to a
certain level it sacrifices a couple of the LED's to maintain runtime, (not
sure on it's brightness though.)

Bottom line: It uses only 4 AA's and it's maximum runtime is something
stupid like 30 hours.

They do have better now, but have a look anyway. They may be pricy, but
they pay for themselves in the long run.

http://www.cateye.com/en/products/viewProduct.php?modelId=19&catId=7&subCatId=2

HTH

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Have you considered getting a bike light with Bright White LED's?

I have a Cateye HL-EL300. I've not run the batteries out yet and the spot
it produces is very clear, (i'd say it can project the spot well over

60ft.)

Quoted message said:

I can't remember runtimes on it, but as soon as battery power drops to a
certain level it sacrifices a couple of the LED's to maintain runtime,

(not

Quoted message said:

sure on it's brightness though.)

Bottom line: It uses only 4 AA's and it's maximum runtime is something
stupid like 30 hours.

They do have better now, but have a look anyway. They may be pricy, but
they pay for themselves in the long run.

http://www.cateye.com/en/products/viewProduct.php?modelId=19&catId=7&subCatId=2

Quoted message said:

HTH

Im unemployed so I have to live off what the goverment classes as enough
money ..... It barely pays the rent but thats not the point

If I could afford a new light I would, I would create my own sytem with a
quick release dynamo so If my batteries did get low I could recharge them as
I went but I have no money ...full stop,
I can only afford the battery Im getting because Its a revards for quitting
cig's.

Quoted message said:

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Have you considered getting a bike light with Bright White LED's?

I have a Cateye HL-EL300. I've not run the batteries out yet and the
spot
it produces is very clear, (i'd say it can project the spot well over

60ft.)

Quoted message said:

I can't remember runtimes on it, but as soon as battery power drops to a
certain level it sacrifices a couple of the LED's to maintain runtime,

(not

Quoted message said:

sure on it's brightness though.)

Bottom line: It uses only 4 AA's and it's maximum runtime is something
stupid like 30 hours.

They do have better now, but have a look anyway. They may be pricy, but
they pay for themselves in the long run.

http://www.cateye.com/en/products/viewProduct.php?modelId=19&catId=7&subCatId=2

Quoted message said:

HTH

Im unemployed so I have to live off what the goverment classes as enough
money ..... It barely pays the rent but thats not the point

If I could afford a new light I would, I would create my own sytem with a
quick release dynamo so If my batteries did get low I could recharge them
as
I went but I have no money ...full stop,
I can only afford the battery Im getting because Its a revards for
quitting
cig's.

Quoted message said:

Sorry, I didn't realise that was the case. At least I know why you want to
do it that way.

P.S. I know exactly how you feel, I've been out of work for a year and a
half, and that's bad enough.

I just had another idea which is possible better but Im not sure If Im right
so here goes Please answer if you can.

I have just seen a 6V battery which appears to be about the same size as the
one Im currently useing but the one I am currently using is 4.2Ah the one I
have just seen is 600Ah I presume this is a better battery which would
provide more runtime without having to carry another battery around.

Does anyone know is this is true ?

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I just had another idea which is possible better but Im not sure If Im

right

Quoted message said:

so here goes Please answer if you can.

I have just seen a 6V battery which appears to be about the same size as

the

Quoted message said:

one Im currently useing but the one I am currently using is 4.2Ah the one

I

Quoted message said:

have just seen is 600Ah I presume this is a better battery which would
provide more runtime without having to carry another battery around.

Does anyone know is this is true ?

screw that miss read that its actually 600mAh as in 100 times smaller but

the question still applies but I have found a bettery which is 12 Ah but a
little bigger so the same qestion remains ?

Although I would have to empty a pocket on my backpack for that one. Any
Ideas on how to attach a battery onto a backpack?

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I just had another idea which is possible better but Im not sure If Im

right

Quoted message said:

so here goes Please answer if you can.

I have just seen a 6V battery which appears to be about the same size as

the

Quoted message said:

one Im currently useing but the one I am currently using is 4.2Ah the one

I

Quoted message said:

have just seen is 600Ah I presume this is a better battery which would
provide more runtime without having to carry another battery around.

Does anyone know is this is true ?

One more question does anyone know what fuse rating this light comes with,
it does not appear to be written on the fuse ???

Quoted message said:

Fish said:

I just had another idea which is possible better but Im not sure If
Im right so here goes Please answer if you can.

I have just seen a 6V battery which appears to be about the same size
as the one Im currently useing but the one I am currently using is
4.2Ah the one I have just seen is 600Ah I presume this is a better
battery which would provide more runtime without having to carry
another battery around.

Does anyone know is this is true ?

Double-check that this isn't 600mAh, which is milli-Amp-hours. 1000mAh =
1Ah.

In all seriousness, you're going to end up with a motorcycle battery in your
backpack. You may want to skip just to that now.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Shaun aRe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"rdd" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
> .
> "Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
> news:[email hidden]...
> >I own a cateye RL-220 I think its called but this post will Be the

same

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for
> > all Lights with a battery that if mounted seperatly.
> >
> > I would like to wire in a second battery to increase runtime as at

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > moment I get a maximum of two hours. I do not want to increase the
> > brightness of the light I dont think this is possible anyway. I am

only

Quoted message said:

> > interested in the runtime. I have found a place to source the

battery

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

from
> > and all I need now is to know wheter it is a series connection or

a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > parrallel connection that I need. Does anyone know?
> >
> >
>
> in series the voltages are added together and would give a brighter

light

Quoted message said:

> or burn out if incandesent. Parallel keeps the volts the same but

adds

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

the

Quoted message said:

> current together and should increase run time.

Cheers !
I knew i should has listened in school. lol
I was expecting at least 20 people to start telling me this is a bad

idea

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for various reasons

Most helpful

Fish

Then let me be number 1!

Right, the problem is this - no two batteries are going to have

identical

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

charge and discharge characteristics, even if both new and of the same

make

Quoted message said:

and model etc. and you have one used, and one new. This means one

battery

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

will be trying to charge the other, and you will likely end up with one

or

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

two damaged batteries after time, or it may even cause a fire (SEEN

IT!!!).

Quoted message said:

The answer to this is to either make it so you can *switch* between
batteries when one runs low, or you have to connect them in parallel,

but

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

only on the negative side directly, then, from each battery positive,

you

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

must have a diode connected, then connect the remaining end of each

diode

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

together, and take your positive feed from there. This ensures that

power

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

can only flow fro thebatteries to the load (bulb), and not from battery

to

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

battery. You will lose a tiny bit of overall voltage, due to the forward
bias needs of the diode (0 point something of a volt, depending on the
actual diode - likely around 0.6 of a volt).

make sure you purchase/raid diodes of sufficient current handling

capacity

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

for your load, then plus some - say the load takes 5 amps max. - use

diodes

Quoted message said:

that are rated at 7 minimum, IMNSHO!

Always re-charge each battery separately also, each with diode

disconnected

Quoted message said:

from the + terminal.

Where to start Im posting this not to prove you wrong

I know that, because you couldn't if you wanted too ',;~}~

It's acually my job - electro-mechancal and minor electronics etc.

Quoted message said:

Im posting this so
that anyone else who read's this post with a similar idea Will have all

the

Quoted message said:

facts.

The reason I want two batterys is so I get (potentually) 4 hours run time
without that annoying phase where the battery starts to discharghe in the
middle. which would make a switch pointless .I may as well just carry a
second battery.

Oh I dunno - a toggle switch on the bars takes no time or trouble to flick
over!

Quoted message said:

The charger I have can only charge one at a time anyway. so thats not a
rpoblem

All's god there then.

Quoted message said:

I was going to include diodes

Remember to put them in as I suggested - they need to stop the flow of power
from one battery to the other.

Quoted message said:

Fuses and mayby even a swith to a much smaller
battery as a get me home emergency light just in case I use up all of my
battery power and I still need to get home this woundnt need to be a

bright

Quoted message said:

light just enough to get me seen, because you never really know whats

going

Quoted message said:

to happen on a bike.

Indeed and I agree - good idea!

Shaun aRe

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I just had another idea which is possible better but Im not sure If Im

right

Quoted message said:

so here goes Please answer if you can.

I have just seen a 6V battery which appears to be about the same size as

the

Quoted message said:

one Im currently useing but the one I am currently using is 4.2Ah the

one

Quoted message said:

I

Quoted message said:

have just seen is 600Ah I presume this is a better battery which would
provide more runtime without having to carry another battery around.

Does anyone know is this is true ?

screw that miss read that its actually 600mAh as in 100 times smaller

but

Quoted message said:

the question still applies but I have found a bettery which is 12 Ah but a
little bigger so the same qestion remains ?

The 12 Ah will indeed last more than 2 x the 4.2 Ah battery. I take it your
light system is a 6v one then?

Quoted message said:

Although I would have to empty a pocket on my backpack for that one. Any
Ideas on how to attach a battery onto a backpack?

Sorry - I've always just dumped it inside the pack somewhere when using
large batts.

Shaun aRe

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I just had another idea which is possible better but Im not sure If Im

right

Quoted message said:

so here goes Please answer if you can.

I have just seen a 6V battery which appears to be about the same size as

the

Quoted message said:

one Im currently useing but the one I am currently using is 4.2Ah the

one

Quoted message said:

I

Quoted message said:

have just seen is 600Ah I presume this is a better battery which would
provide more runtime without having to carry another battery around.

Does anyone know is this is true ?

One more question does anyone know what fuse rating this light comes with,
it does not appear to be written on the fuse ???

How many Watts is the bulb, and how many Volts is the battery?

Amps (fuse rating) = Watts (load) divided by Volts (supply).

i.e. - say the bulb is 10 W, battery 6V, then 10W / 6V = 1.6666666 (etc.)
Amps - use a 2 A fuse.

HTH!

Shaun aRe

"spademan o---[) *" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

<http://teamsheep.nu/research.html?page=10>

Steve.

That is a very very good idea forcing car drivers to stop and let you pass
...its like heaven on earth

Pitty abut the runtime though I suppose I could run a 6 battery setup and
just ditch all the rest of the kit in my back pack ... if I get a puncture I
could flash SOS to passing plane's and helicopter's

Quoted message said:

I have purchased the new battery and I have acheived my goal better than
expected
I have Doubled the size and Weight of my bettery but I now have gained (in
theory at least) x 2.85714 runtime which now means basically

..9KG battery weigh = 2 hours runtime
1.8 Kg battery weight = just under 6 hours runtime

(assuming the batteries are of equal quality) and I still have the original
battery so if I ever go on a particulally long ride I can take this with me
as an ermergency backup) I have also Purchased a 5W bult so I can effectivly
run the thing at 1/2 power thus doubling the runtime again.

Anyone looking to do this upgrade the Maplin's Part numbers are as follows

Battery UD 08 its the 6v 12Ah one but you can go for any in that range. You
could also fit a smaller battery if you take short rides and are concerned
about weight/size commuting etc.
Bulb MR11 6v 5W Make sure you get the 35mm one.
Fuse's just in case you short it out while screwing around PC91.

I may even do some reasearch into the dynamo rechargeable one now because Im
bored and it seem's like a good idea.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Right, the problem is this - no two batteries are going to have identical
charge and discharge characteristics, even if both new and of the same

make

Quoted message said:

and model etc. and you have one used, and one new. This means one battery
will be trying to charge the other, and you will likely end up with one
or
two damaged batteries after time, or it may even cause a fire (SEEN

IT!!!).

Quoted message said:

The answer to this is to either make it so you can *switch* between
batteries when one runs low, or you have to connect them in parallel, but
only on the negative side directly, then, from each battery positive, you
must have a diode connected, then connect the remaining end of each diode
together, and take your positive feed from there. This ensures that power
can only flow fro thebatteries to the load (bulb), and not from battery
to
battery. You will lose a tiny bit of overall voltage, due to the forward
bias needs of the diode (0 point something of a volt, depending on the
actual diode - likely around 0.6 of a volt).

make sure you purchase/raid diodes of sufficient current handling
capacity
for your load, then plus some - say the load takes 5 amps max. - use

diodes

Quoted message said:

that are rated at 7 minimum, IMNSHO!

Always re-charge each battery separately also, each with diode

disconnected

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from the + terminal.

Where to start Im posting this not to prove you wrong Im posting this so
that anyone else who read's this post with a similar idea Will have all
the
facts.

The reason I want two batterys is so I get (potentually) 4 hours run time
without that annoying phase where the battery starts to discharghe in the
middle. which would make a switch pointless .I may as well just carry a
second battery.

The charger I have can only charge one at a time anyway. so thats not a
rpoblem

I was going to include diodes Fuses and mayby even a swith to a much
smaller
battery as a get me home emergency light just in case I use up all of my
battery power and I still need to get home this woundnt need to be a
bright
light just enough to get me seen, because you never really know whats
going
to happen on a bike.

Quoted message said:

I did this, had a large battery made with 2 sets of batteries connected in
parallel. Worked great for one season. The next season I could only get
around 20 mins. I had the battery checked out and there were a number of bad
batteries in the system. If the batteries aren't identical you're going to
put a lot of strain on the weaker batteries and they'll die prematurely thus
putting more strain on the other battery that it was in parallel with
ultimately resulting in everying failing fairly rapidly.

If you need more info on batteries check out the following newsgroup and
post your question there.

sci.chem.electrochem.battery

I'm sure they'll be able to recommend the best battery for your use.

--
Pete Rissler
http://web1.greatbasin.net/~rissler/
http://www.tccycling.com

"Fish" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I have purchased the new battery and I have acheived my goal better than
expected
I have Doubled the size and Weight of my bettery but I now have gained

(in

Quoted message said:

theory at least) x 2.85714 runtime which now means basically

.9KG battery weigh = 2 hours runtime
1.8 Kg battery weight = just under 6 hours runtime

(assuming the batteries are of equal quality) and I still have the

original

Quoted message said:

battery so if I ever go on a particulally long ride I can take this with

me

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as an ermergency backup) I have also Purchased a 5W bult so I can

effectivly

Quoted message said:

run the thing at 1/2 power thus doubling the runtime again.

Anyone looking to do this upgrade the Maplin's Part numbers are as follows

Battery UD 08 its the 6v 12Ah one but you can go for any in that range.

You

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could also fit a smaller battery if you take short rides and are concerned
about weight/size commuting etc.
Bulb MR11 6v 5W Make sure you get the 35mm one.
Fuse's just in case you short it out while screwing around PC91.

I may even do some reasearch into the dynamo rechargeable one now because

Im

Quoted message said:

bored and it seem's like a good idea.

I have justs tested this setup and I got about 5Hr's 10 Min's out of the
battery withouyt any charging whatsoever thats with the light on contibuosly
on full beam so I think Ive managed to get pretty good runtime out of the
thing

Quoted message said:

"Pete Rissler" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

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Right, the problem is this - no two batteries are going to have

identical

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charge and discharge characteristics, even if both new and of the same

make

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and model etc. and you have one used, and one new. This means one

battery

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will be trying to charge the other, and you will likely end up with one
or
two damaged batteries after time, or it may even cause a fire (SEEN

IT!!!).

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The answer to this is to either make it so you can *switch* between
batteries when one runs low, or you have to connect them in parallel,

but

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only on the negative side directly, then, from each battery positive,

you

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must have a diode connected, then connect the remaining end of each

diode

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together, and take your positive feed from there. This ensures that

power

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can only flow fro thebatteries to the load (bulb), and not from battery
to
battery. You will lose a tiny bit of overall voltage, due to the

forward

Quoted message said:

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bias needs of the diode (0 point something of a volt, depending on the
actual diode - likely around 0.6 of a volt).

make sure you purchase/raid diodes of sufficient current handling
capacity
for your load, then plus some - say the load takes 5 amps max. - use

diodes

Quoted message said:

that are rated at 7 minimum, IMNSHO!

Always re-charge each battery separately also, each with diode

disconnected

Quoted message said:

from the + terminal.

Where to start Im posting this not to prove you wrong Im posting this so
that anyone else who read's this post with a similar idea Will have all
the
facts.

The reason I want two batterys is so I get (potentually) 4 hours run

time

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

without that annoying phase where the battery starts to discharghe in

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

middle. which would make a switch pointless .I may as well just carry a
second battery.

The charger I have can only charge one at a time anyway. so thats not a
rpoblem

I was going to include diodes Fuses and mayby even a swith to a much
smaller
battery as a get me home emergency light just in case I use up all of my
battery power and I still need to get home this woundnt need to be a
bright
light just enough to get me seen, because you never really know whats
going
to happen on a bike.

Quoted message said:

I did this, had a large battery made with 2 sets of batteries connected in
parallel. Worked great for one season. The next season I could only get
around 20 mins. I had the battery checked out and there were a number of

bad

Quoted message said:

batteries in the system. If the batteries aren't identical you're going to
put a lot of strain on the weaker batteries and they'll die prematurely

thus

Quoted message said:

putting more strain on the other battery that it was in parallel with
ultimately resulting in everying failing fairly rapidly.

If you need more info on batteries check out the following newsgroup and
post your question there.

sci.chem.electrochem.battery

I'm sure they'll be able to recommend the best battery for your use.

This is a problem caused by what I wrote above, and the least problematic of
those that can occur - the stronger battery will try to charge the weaker
one, and in the end some cells see a reverse charge, and die. As I also
wrote, the solution to this is to have the + sides of the two batteries
connected via 2 diodes - this absolutely does cure these related problems.

Like this:

+ - out
I
/ \ the two diodes, with the marked end of each joined together,
the unmarked end of each, joined to a batt. + terminal.
+ +
The two battery positives.

Voila!

Shaun aRe