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In article <[email hidden]>,
David Kelling said:my wife bought a cannondale r800 2 years ago. it has a truvativ isis
splined bb with truvative elita triple crank 52/42/30 and 12-25 9spd
cassette. she'd like an all around lower gear range. she rarely uses
the 52 and spends most of her riding in the 30.
i switched out the 42/30 in the crank to a 39/26 which is better, but
i'd like to go farther and put a mtb drivetrain on the bike with a
42/32/22 on front and a 11-34 cassette on back. based on the gears she
uses most, she'd sit right in the middle of a mtb drivetrain and this
seems ideal for her riding style (but she loves a road bike, doesn't
want a mtn bike).
if you can suggest or point to a reference on the web where i can get
specs for what i need, that'd be great.
_ Sheldon Brown's website
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/new.html
Quoted message said:my questions are:
given a certain brand of crank, how do i determine what length of
spindle i need for the bottom bracket?
_ The best way is to have the manufacturer of the crank tell you,
this information almost always comes with the little data sheet
that comes with the parts. If you don't have that, there is
a database on Sheldon's site. Look for the article on chainline
to start with.
Quoted message said:as best i can tell it has a
68x118 now. can i put an mtb crank on as-is or do i need a different
length bb and how do i determine what length i need based on the crank
i get?
_ 118 will work with many MTB triples, but you need to double
check.
Quoted message said:
will the 105 triple road front derailleur be ok with a mtb
crank?
_ Maybe, Rivendell uses that derailler with Sugino 48/36/26
chainrings, but they don't use indexed shifting.
Quoted message said:assuming the space between rings in the crank is the same for triple
road and triple mtb, it seems i would only need to move the front
derailleur down the seat tube a little bit to accomodate the smaller
crank. true?
_ You'll get the best shifting when the curvature of the
derailler matches that of the largest chainring. I'm not sure how well
a 105 road derailler built to match a 53 or 52 chainring will
work with a 42 or 44. This all gets very complicated with indexed
shifting as MTB and road front deraillers need the index to pull
different amounts of cable. You can make it all work, but it gets
pricey.
Quoted message said:
i think i'm ok with figuring out proper chain length and figuring out
if the rear derailleur will be ok, but i'm stumped on what to order
for a bb and crank.
_ If you want to go much larger than 30 on the back you'll need
a MTB rear derailler.
Quoted message said:yeah, sure, i could pay the local bike shop to do
it all but i like to learn, like to fix my own bikes, and don't have
lots of cash so try to find deals online on parts.
thanks for your suggestions and advice!
_ I think the cheapest solution might be to start with the rear
cluster first and replacing one of the chainrings. Replace the
52 with a 48 or 50 and either get a custom cluster from Harris
Cyclery or by a couple of HG50 or HG70 cassettes and make up your
own. Something like the first couple listed might be good.
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/k7.html
_ The century special would work well, but it's very pricey.
My favorite is to start with the Ultegra 9 speed 14-25 and
replace the 23,25 with a 24 and 28.
_ Booker C. Bense
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