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need advice on modifying drivetrain

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Cycling Equipment
Published
25 November 2004
Last activity
5 December 2004
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David Kelling
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  1. my wife bought a cannondale r800 2 years ago. it has a truvativ isis
    splined bb with truvative elita triple crank 52/42/30 and 12-25 9spd
    cassette. she'd like an all around lower gear range. she rarely uses
    the 52 and spends most of her riding in the 30.

    i switched out the 42/30 in the crank to a 39/26 which is better, but
    i'd like to go farther and put a mtb drivetrain on the bike with a
    42/32/22 on front and a 11-34 cassette on back. based on the gears she
    uses most, she'd sit right in the middle of a mtb drivetrain and this
    seems ideal for her riding style (but she loves a road bike, doesn't
    want a mtn bike).

    if you can suggest or point to a reference on the web where i can get
    specs for what i need, that'd be great. my questions are:

    given a certain brand of crank, how do i determine what length of
    spindle i need for the bottom bracket? as best i can tell it has a
    68x118 now. can i put an mtb crank on as-is or do i need a different
    length bb and how do i determine what length i need based on the crank
    i get?

    will the 105 triple road front derailleur be ok with a mtb crank?
    assuming the space between rings in the crank is the same for triple
    road and triple mtb, it seems i would only need to move the front
    derailleur down the seat tube a little bit to accomodate the smaller
    crank. true?

    i think i'm ok with figuring out proper chain length and figuring out
    if the rear derailleur will be ok, but i'm stumped on what to order
    for a bb and crank. yeah, sure, i could pay the local bike shop to do
    it all but i like to learn, like to fix my own bikes, and don't have
    lots of cash so try to find deals online on parts.

    thanks for your suggestions and advice!

  2. On 25 Nov 2004 08:14:26 -0800, [email hidden] (David Kelling)

    Quoted message said:

    i switched out the 42/30 in the crank to a 39/26 which is better, but
    i'd like to go farther and put a mtb drivetrain on the bike with a
    42/32/22 on front and a 11-34 cassette on back. based on the gears she

    The selection of the front derailleur may be tricky. The MTB front
    changer may be so low that its inner movement is restricted by the
    right chain stay. The cage will stop when hitting the stay.

    I think that something like a Sugino XD triple comes standard with
    46/36/24, which would be close to what you are looking for.

  3. -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

    In article <[email hidden]>,

    David Kelling said:

    my wife bought a cannondale r800 2 years ago. it has a truvativ isis
    splined bb with truvative elita triple crank 52/42/30 and 12-25 9spd
    cassette. she'd like an all around lower gear range. she rarely uses
    the 52 and spends most of her riding in the 30.

    i switched out the 42/30 in the crank to a 39/26 which is better, but
    i'd like to go farther and put a mtb drivetrain on the bike with a
    42/32/22 on front and a 11-34 cassette on back. based on the gears she
    uses most, she'd sit right in the middle of a mtb drivetrain and this
    seems ideal for her riding style (but she loves a road bike, doesn't
    want a mtn bike).

    if you can suggest or point to a reference on the web where i can get
    specs for what i need, that'd be great.

    _ Sheldon Brown's website

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/new.html

    Quoted message said:

    my questions are:

    given a certain brand of crank, how do i determine what length of
    spindle i need for the bottom bracket?

    _ The best way is to have the manufacturer of the crank tell you,
    this information almost always comes with the little data sheet
    that comes with the parts. If you don't have that, there is
    a database on Sheldon's site. Look for the article on chainline
    to start with.

    Quoted message said:

    as best i can tell it has a
    68x118 now. can i put an mtb crank on as-is or do i need a different
    length bb and how do i determine what length i need based on the crank
    i get?

    _ 118 will work with many MTB triples, but you need to double
    check.

    Quoted message said:


    will the 105 triple road front derailleur be ok with a mtb
    crank?

    _ Maybe, Rivendell uses that derailler with Sugino 48/36/26
    chainrings, but they don't use indexed shifting.

    Quoted message said:

    assuming the space between rings in the crank is the same for triple
    road and triple mtb, it seems i would only need to move the front
    derailleur down the seat tube a little bit to accomodate the smaller
    crank. true?

    _ You'll get the best shifting when the curvature of the
    derailler matches that of the largest chainring. I'm not sure how well
    a 105 road derailler built to match a 53 or 52 chainring will
    work with a 42 or 44. This all gets very complicated with indexed
    shifting as MTB and road front deraillers need the index to pull
    different amounts of cable. You can make it all work, but it gets
    pricey.

    Quoted message said:


    i think i'm ok with figuring out proper chain length and figuring out
    if the rear derailleur will be ok, but i'm stumped on what to order
    for a bb and crank.

    _ If you want to go much larger than 30 on the back you'll need
    a MTB rear derailler.

    Quoted message said:

    yeah, sure, i could pay the local bike shop to do
    it all but i like to learn, like to fix my own bikes, and don't have
    lots of cash so try to find deals online on parts.

    thanks for your suggestions and advice!

    _ I think the cheapest solution might be to start with the rear
    cluster first and replacing one of the chainrings. Replace the
    52 with a 48 or 50 and either get a custom cluster from Harris
    Cyclery or by a couple of HG50 or HG70 cassettes and make up your
    own. Something like the first couple listed might be good.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/k7.html

    _ The century special would work well, but it's very pricey.
    My favorite is to start with the Ultegra 9 speed 14-25 and
    replace the 23,25 with a 24 and 28.

    _ Booker C. Bense

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  4. [email hidden] (David Kelling) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    my wife bought a cannondale r800 2 years ago. it has a truvativ isis
    splined bb with truvative elita triple crank 52/42/30 and 12-25 9spd
    cassette. she'd like an all around lower gear range. she rarely uses
    the 52 and spends most of her riding in the 30.

    i switched out the 42/30 in the crank to a 39/26 which is better, but
    i'd like to go farther and put a mtb drivetrain on the bike with a
    42/32/22 on front and a 11-34 cassette on back. based on the gears she
    uses most, she'd sit right in the middle of a mtb drivetrain and this
    seems ideal for her riding style (but she loves a road bike, doesn't
    want a mtn bike).

    if you can suggest or point to a reference on the web where i can get
    specs for what i need, that'd be great. my questions are:

    given a certain brand of crank, how do i determine what length of
    spindle i need for the bottom bracket? as best i can tell it has a
    68x118 now. can i put an mtb crank on as-is or do i need a different
    length bb and how do i determine what length i need based on the crank
    i get?

    will the 105 triple road front derailleur be ok with a mtb crank?
    assuming the space between rings in the crank is the same for triple
    road and triple mtb, it seems i would only need to move the front
    derailleur down the seat tube a little bit to accomodate the smaller
    crank. true?

    i think i'm ok with figuring out proper chain length and figuring out
    if the rear derailleur will be ok, but i'm stumped on what to order
    for a bb and crank. yeah, sure, i could pay the local bike shop to do
    it all but i like to learn, like to fix my own bikes, and don't have
    lots of cash so try to find deals online on parts.

    thanks for your suggestions and advice!

    Here is my suggestion. Take off the 52 chainring and put on the
    original 42 chainring in the outer position. Free since you kept the
    chainring you took off. Keep the replacement 39 in the middle
    position. Consider buying a 24 chainring for the inner. But you can
    wait until you find one at Nashbar for $2 since you already have a 26.
    Buy a 12-34 or 11-34 cassette and put it on. About $40 on sale from
    Nashbar or Performance. Hopefully the triple 105 rear derailleur will
    clear the 34 cog. Its cage should be long enough to take up the slack
    since you will only have a 16 difference in front (42-26) and 23
    difference in back (34-11). You may not have to replace the chain
    since it was installed to work with a 52x25 it may also work with
    42x34. But chains are $10 on sale so get one anyway. Total cost $50
    if you spurge for the chain.

    Send your wife out to ride to see if the new gearing is good. I
    suspect it will be just fine and she will use the 39 and 42 chainrings
    for the vast majority of riding. And the 26 for hilly riding.

  5. Quoth David Kelling:

    Quoted message said:

    my wife bought a cannondale r800 2 years ago. it has a truvativ isis
    splined bb with truvative elita triple crank 52/42/30 and 12-25 9spd
    cassette. she'd like an all around lower gear range. she rarely uses
    the 52 and spends most of her riding in the 30.

    i switched out the 42/30 in the crank to a 39/26 which is better, but
    i'd like to go farther and put a mtb drivetrain on the bike with a
    42/32/22 on front and a 11-34 cassette on back. based on the gears she
    uses most, she'd sit right in the middle of a mtb drivetrain and this
    seems ideal for her riding style (but she loves a road bike, doesn't
    want a mtn bike).

    given a certain brand of crank, how do i determine what length of
    spindle i need for the bottom bracket? as best i can tell it has a
    68x118 now. can i put an mtb crank on as-is or do i need a different
    length bb and how do i determine what length i need based on the crank
    i get?

    The "68" has to do with how it fits the frame. The 118 has to do with
    how it fits the crank. You normally would go with the length
    recommended by the manufacturer for that specific crank model. If a
    range of lengths is recommeded, use the shortest for a road bike.

    See: http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize...but-I would advise _against_
    replacing the crank.

    In addition to the considerable expense involved, it can turn into a can
    of worms trying to get road shifters to work with "microdrive" mtb
    cranks like that.

    See: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment

    Quoted message said:


    will the 105 triple road front derailleur be ok with a mtb crank?

    No, it will work very poorly.

    Quoted message said:

    assuming the space between rings in the crank is the same for triple
    road and triple mtb, it seems i would only need to move the front
    derailleur down the seat tube a little bit to accomodate the smaller
    crank. true?

    The cage is designed to match the contour of a 52 tooth big ring, it
    will work poorly with a 42.

    Quoted message said:


    i think i'm ok with figuring out proper chain length and figuring out
    if the rear derailleur will be ok, but i'm stumped on what to order
    for a bb and crank. yeah, sure, i could pay the local bike shop to do
    it all but i like to learn, like to fix my own bikes, and don't have
    lots of cash so try to find deals online on parts.

    My advice would be to go with one of my Cyclotouriste 14 cassettes
    (14-34) and leave the cranks alone. You will also need a new rear
    derailer, but derailers are cheap. There are no indexing issues in the
    rear, as long as she sticks with a Shimano derailer.

    See: http://harriscyclery.com/9

    and: http://harriscyclery.com/derailers

    Sheldon "Keep The Crank" Brown
    +-----------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Love seems the swiftest, but it is the slowest of all growths. |
    | No man or woman really knows what perfect love is until they |
    | have been married a quarter of a century. --Mark Twain |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------------+
    (I'll find out if this is true tomorrow. So far it seems to be!)

    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

  6. Russell Seaton said:

    Buy a 12-34 or 11-34 cassette and put it on.
    Hopefully the triple 105 rear derailleur will
    clear the 34 cog.

    It probably won't. Shimano road rear derailers are usually rated for 27t
    max cog, but I'm not the only one that has stretched that to 28t. I've
    heard that a 30t cog is a hit-or-miss proposition, so I'm pretty sure a
    32t or 34t cog won't work with the 105 derailer.

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  7. David Kelling said:

    my wife bought a cannondale r800 2 years ago. it has a truvativ isis
    splined bb with truvative elita triple crank 52/42/30 and 12-25 9spd
    cassette. she'd like an all around lower gear range. she rarely uses
    the 52 and spends most of her riding in the 30.

    i switched out the 42/30 in the crank to a 39/26 which is better...

    Sounds like you made one logical step by changing out the chainrings.

    You say she used the 30 x 13-25 most often, assuming she doesn't
    cross-chain into the 30 x 12 combination. She now has a 39t cog in the
    middle, so the corresponding cog set to get similar gears is 17-33.
    Sheldon's suggestion of a 14-34 cog set and a new rear derailler will
    give her nearly the same ratios with the 39t ring as she had with the
    30t ring, which seems like a good idea.

    If you want to use the existing rear derailler, you could try a
    different cog set. A 12-27 or 11-28 would work with your rear derailler,
    and she'd get a slightly taller set of gears with the 39t that she had
    with the 30t. The low gears would still be available with the 26t chainring.

    If she spent a lot of time in the 30x23 and 30x25, I'd go with the 14-34
    and a new derailler. If she spent most of her time in the 30x13 to 30x21
    range, I'd go with a 12-27 and use the existing derailer.

    Quoted message said:

    i'd like to go farther and put a mtb drivetrain on the bike with a
    42/32/22 on front and a 11-34 cassette on back.

    A 22x34 is a *really* low gear. If she wants such a low gear, then you
    should get the monster cassette. I'll bet that once she tries the 26x34
    (4.9 mph @ 80 rpm), she won't be asking for lower gears. She might not
    even want a gear lower than 26x27 (6.1 mph @ 80 rpm). It gets pretty
    tough to balance a bike at such slow speeds, so it would be easier to walk.

    (speed @ rpm calculations assume 28-622 [700x28] wheels)

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  8. -----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

    In article said:
    Russell Seaton said:

    Buy a 12-34 or 11-34 cassette and put it on.
    Hopefully the triple 105 rear derailleur will
    clear the 34 cog.

    It probably won't. Shimano road rear derailers are usually rated for 27t
    max cog, but I'm not the only one that has stretched that to 28t. I've
    heard that a 30t cog is a hit-or-miss proposition, so I'm pretty sure a
    32t or 34t cog won't work with the 105 derailer.

    _ I've used a 30t rear cog with both a Ultegra and Tiagra Triple
    rear derailler, but not with indexed shifting. You have to tweak
    the B adjustment pretty far out[1], but it worked fine.

    _ Booker C. Bense

    [1]- This might be a problem since it depends on exactly how the
    rear dropouts are configured. You can always get a longer screw.

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  9. thank you all SO VERY MUCH for your input!
    i've got things to consider and then things to try!
    again, thanks so much.

    i ride in the winter, but she doesn't, so it'll be some time until i
    post what i did as i've got some flexibility. but i will ost for
    future use.

    thanks again!

    [email hidden] (David Kelling) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

    Quoted message said:

    my wife bought a cannondale r800 2 years ago. it has a truvativ isis
    splined bb with truvative elita triple crank 52/42/30 and 12-25 9spd
    cassette. she'd like an all around lower gear range. she rarely uses
    the 52 and spends most of her riding in the 30.

    ....

  10. Sheldon Brown said:

    Quoth David Kelling:

    Quoted message said:

    my wife bought a cannondale r800 2 years ago. it has a truvativ isis
    splined bb with truvative elita triple crank 52/42/30 and 12-25 9spd
    cassette. she'd like an all around lower gear range. she rarely uses
    the 52 and spends most of her riding in the 30.

    i switched out the 42/30 in the crank to a 39/26 which is better, but
    i'd like to go farther and put a mtb drivetrain on the bike with a
    42/32/22 on front and a 11-34 cassette on back. based on the gears she
    uses most, she'd sit right in the middle of a mtb drivetrain and this
    seems ideal for her riding style (but she loves a road bike, doesn't
    want a mtn bike).

    given a certain brand of crank, how do i determine what length of
    spindle i need for the bottom bracket? as best i can tell it has a
    68x118 now. can i put an mtb crank on as-is or do i need a different
    length bb and how do i determine what length i need based on the crank
    i get?

    The "68" has to do with how it fits the frame. The 118 has to do with
    how it fits the crank. You normally would go with the length
    recommended by the manufacturer for that specific crank model. If a
    range of lengths is recommeded, use the shortest for a road bike.

    See: http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize...but-I would advise _against_
    replacing the crank.

    In addition to the considerable expense involved, it can turn into a can
    of worms trying to get road shifters to work with "microdrive" mtb
    cranks like that.

    See: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment

    Quoted message said:


    will the 105 triple road front derailleur be ok with a mtb crank?

    No, it will work very poorly.

    Quoted message said:

    assuming the space between rings in the crank is the same for triple
    road and triple mtb, it seems i would only need to move the front
    derailleur down the seat tube a little bit to accomodate the smaller
    crank. true?

    The cage is designed to match the contour of a 52 tooth big ring, it
    will work poorly with a 42.

    Quoted message said:


    i think i'm ok with figuring out proper chain length and figuring out
    if the rear derailleur will be ok, but i'm stumped on what to order
    for a bb and crank. yeah, sure, i could pay the local bike shop to do
    it all but i like to learn, like to fix my own bikes, and don't have
    lots of cash so try to find deals online on parts.

    My advice would be to go with one of my Cyclotouriste 14 cassettes
    (14-34) and leave the cranks alone. You will also need a new rear
    derailer, but derailers are cheap. There are no indexing issues in the
    rear, as long as she sticks with a Shimano derailer.

    See: http://harriscyclery.com/9

    and: http://harriscyclery.com/derailers

    Sheldon "Keep The Crank" Brown
    +-----------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Love seems the swiftest, but it is the slowest of all growths. |
    | No man or woman really knows what perfect love is until they |
    | have been married a quarter of a century. --Mark Twain |
    +-----------------------------------------------------------------+
    (I'll find out if this is true tomorrow. So far it seems to be!)

    Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
    http://harriscyclery.com
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

    Sheldon
    Congrats on your impending 25th. I fell a couple of years short of it the first time around. Hopefully I'll live long enough to achieve it on the second try.
    Dan

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