soldering cable ends

Mike said:

I'd like to solder the ends of my brake and shift cables, rather than
using the little crimp caps. I tried a couple of different solders,
and neither would stick to the cable. Any tricks or suggestions? I
googled Sheldon's site but didn't find a reference. Thanks.

Mike

need to use an acid [ZnCl/HCl] flux. but that doesn't explain why you
want to solder in the first place. the aluminum caps are safer in that
they're slightly blunter & therefore less likely to pierce skin in the
event of a freak crash. and because they're easily removable, they make
cable disassembly easier than if there's a blob of solder on the end.

Mike said:

I'd like to solder the ends of my brake and shift cables, rather than
using the little crimp caps. I tried a couple of different solders,
and neither would stick to the cable. Any tricks or suggestions? I
googled Sheldon's site but didn't find a reference. Thanks.

Heat the cable directly with the iron and then apply the solder. Solder pots
are also available which attach to the end of a conventional iron allowing
you to dip the cable into a pool of molten solder. Alternatively you can use
very narrow-gauge heatshrink around the ends of your cables. I use this and
it works a treat.

quote='jim beam'Mike said:

I'd like to solder the ends of my brake and shift cables, rather than
using the little crimp caps. I tried a couple of different solders,
and neither would stick to the cable. Any tricks or suggestions? I
googled Sheldon's site but didn't find a reference. Thanks.

Mike

need to use an acid [ZnCl/HCl] flux. but that doesn't explain why you
want to solder in the first place. the aluminum caps are safer in that
they're slightly blunter & therefore less likely to pierce skin in the
event of a freak crash. and because they're easily removable, they make
cable disassembly easier than if there's a blob of solder on the end.[/QUOTE]

The proper technique is to use just enough solder to secure the strands and provide something to crimp the end on. If you cimp on a non-soldered end, you will most likely fray the cable. Properly soldered cables do not fray and as such, can be removed from the housing for service.

A properly done solder job completely wets the cable for at least a centimeter and adds nothing to the diameter of the cable.

Since I have a MAAP torch, I can use frame builder's silver solder and the flux. Works great, even on stainless but flops on Teflon(tm) covered cables.

jim beam said:

need to use an acid [ZnCl/HCl] flux. but that doesn't explain why you
want to solder in the first place. the aluminum caps are safer in that
they're slightly blunter & therefore less likely to pierce skin in the
event of a freak crash. and because they're easily removable, they make
cable disassembly easier than if there's a blob of solder on the end.

But the cable would be impossible to re-insert due to fraying of the end.
Either solder, or nail polish, allows you to pull the cable, grease it,
and re-insert it.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | "Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The
_`\(,_ | common welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance,
(_)/ (_) | and benevolence, were, all, my business. The dealings of my
trade were but a drop of water in the comprehensive ocean of my
business!" --Dickens, "A Christmas Carol"

Mike said:

I'd like to solder the ends of my brake and shift cables, rather than
using the little crimp caps. I tried a couple of different solders,
and neither would stick to the cable. Any tricks or suggestions? I
googled Sheldon's site but didn't find a reference. Thanks.

Mike

The stainless steel cables are a problem; however, I find that by
repeating the treatment using a flux and solder compound will work. The
first time, the solder runs off, but sticks the second time. I have used
a 95/5 Tin/Antinomy mix, but I doubt that the proportions are critical
-- I have seen recommendations for a 50/50 mix.

--
Bob Wheeler --- http://www.bobwheeler.com/
ECHIP, Inc. ---
Randomness comes in bunches.

If you don't need to retract the cable then wrap a thin strand of copper
wire around the cable doesnt have to be very much and the solder should now
stick.

cheers
Jon_H

"David L. Johnson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

jim beam said:

need to use an acid [ZnCl/HCl] flux. but that doesn't explain why you
want to solder in the first place. the aluminum caps are safer in that
they're slightly blunter & therefore less likely to pierce skin in the
event of a freak crash. and because they're easily removable, they

make

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

cable disassembly easier than if there's a blob of solder on the end.

But the cable would be impossible to re-insert due to fraying of the end.
Either solder, or nail polish, allows you to pull the cable, grease it,
and re-insert it.

I don't screw around with solder/paint/glue any more. I just use new
cables. I find that I re-thread cables so rarely that replacement is a good
idea anyway.

If I don't have the made-for-purpose caps, I crimp on a spoke nipple or
push the pin out of a pop rivet and use the body. A really artistic
mechanic (like Sheldon Brown) will match the end caps to the frame color.

Put a few drops of SuperGlue in one of the crimp ends, slide it over the
cable end, push it up as far as it will go and hold it there a minute or so.
I have never had one come loose.

Frank

"Mike" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I'd like to solder the ends of my brake and shift cables, rather than
using the little crimp caps. I tried a couple of different solders,
and neither would stick to the cable. Any tricks or suggestions? I
googled Sheldon's site but didn't find a reference. Thanks.

Mike

Use the ready-made cable ends. Crimp lightly. I have never had the
end of the cable start to fray because of crimping on the cable end
caps. Soldering may seem more elegant, but it is definitely not worth
the trouble. Crimp on the ready made caps and go ride your bike!

In article <[email hidden]>,

(Mike) said:

I'd like to solder the ends of my brake and shift cables, rather than
using the little crimp caps. I tried a couple of different solders,
and neither would stick to the cable. Any tricks or suggestions? I
googled Sheldon's site but didn't find a reference.

I've done this using an acid flux on cable that I cleaned with paint thinner.
I'm almost entirely self taught in the field but my observation is that the
correct amount of heat is critial. A small soldering iron did not work for me,
and a larger soldering "gun" did the job but did not work consistently. A
propane torch (the type that is commonly available in hardware stores or even
WalMart) didn't work and I think it was because there was too much heat. A
small "pencil" torch did the job quite well. The last step is to wash the flux
off. Aluminum foil is not a bad thing for shielding the nearby bike parts and
the chain stays, which might be necessary if I had skill in the area.

I also suspect one could run into varieties of stainless that will not take
solder, but that's only a guess (but this is the internet so guesses can be
touted as fact :-).

Others here talk of using super glue or heat shrink tubing to stabilize the
ends. Both of those sound reasonable unless one wanted to prepare spare cables
to carry on the bike as one would on a long tour.

Tom Gibb <[email hidden]>

I guess soldering is a lost art. It takes no time once you have the right tools and materials but the real benefit is you can remove the cable from the jacket and clean them apart. Then when it comes time, you can reassemble with no problems.

If it takes me 10 seconds, I am running slow.

Mike said:

I'd like to solder the ends of my brake and shift cables, rather than
using the little crimp caps. I tried a couple of different solders,
and neither would stick to the cable. Any tricks or suggestions? I
googled Sheldon's site but didn't find a reference. Thanks.

Mike

Clean! Clean! Clean! The first trick is to make sure that the cable is
absolutely clean of any grease, oil, dirt, oxides, etc. If you use a flame
to heat the cable, you risk contaminating the cable with unburned carbon,
i.e. soot. If the flame is too hot, you risk oxidizing the wire. That's
why a good flux is important.
I have had good luck using standard rosin-core "electronic" solder and a
good Weller temperature-controlled soldering iron. That's a $60+ item,
though. If you have a cheaper iron or a soldering gun, make sure the tip
is "wetted" with shiny molten solder.
The basic idea is to get very good heat transfer from the heating device
(iron, gun, or flame) to the cable wires so that the solder will flow
before the cable is oxidized.
If you do use an acid flux, make sure you remove any residue. Those fluxes
have a nasty way of slowly attacking whatever they're stuck on, causing
corrosion later.
I haven't tried applying solder to stainless steel, so can't be of any help
there.

Dan Rea

Mike said:

I'd like to solder the ends of my brake and shift cables, rather than
using the little crimp caps. I tried a couple of different solders,
and neither would stick to the cable. Any tricks or suggestions? I
googled Sheldon's site but didn't find a reference. Thanks.

Mike

Use phosphoric acid by dipping cable into the acid then solder. Phosphoric acid is also the correct flux for soldering stainless steel.

I use 56% silver rod, Harris stay-silv white flux, and an oxy-acetylene
(or more recently oxy-LPG) brazing setup. I find it's most convenient
to cut the cable a little longer than you need, coat it with flux, warm
it up with the torch, than put a dab of silver on it. The silver wicks
into the cable very well. Finally cut the cable again so only the last
five or six millimetres is soldered. Rounding the end with a file is
also a good idea.

This results in an exceptionally neat, clean cable, that can be removed
and reinstalled as many times as you like.

Regards,

Suzy

Weisse Luft <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Since I have a MAAP torch, I can use frame builder's silver solder
and the flux. Works great, even on stainless but flops on
Teflon(tm) covered cables.

Dude, you do NOT want to be burning Teflon and sucking down the fumes.
It can cause tremor (so-called "Teflon shakes"😉 and lung damage
including pulmonary edema.

From the Teflon Materials Safety Data Sheet:

Material Safety Data Sheet Poly(tetrafluoroethylene) TEFLON MSDS

ACC# 66470 Section 1 - Chemical Product and Company Identification
MSDS Name: Poly(tetrafluoroethylene) Catalog Numbers: AC178930000,
AC178930050, AC178931000, AC178932500 Synonyms: PTFE; Poly(ethylene
tetrafluoride); Tetrafluoroethene polymer; Terafluoroethylene
homopolymer Company Identification:
Acros Organics N.V. One Reagent Lane Fair Lawn, NJ
07410
For information in North America, call: 800-ACROS-01 For emergencies
in the US, call CHEMTREC: 800-424-9300

Section 2 - Composition, Information on Ingredients

CAS# Chemical Name Percent EINECS/ELINCS 9002-84-0
Poly(tetrafluoroethylene) 100 204-126-9

Hazard Symbols: None listed. Risk Phrases: None listed.

Section 3 - Hazards Identification

EMERGENCY OVERVIEW

Appearance: White Powder. Caution! The toxicological properties of
this material have not been fully investigated. May cause respiratory
and digestive tract irritation. Vapors can cause eye
irritation. Cancer suspect agent. May cause skin irritation.

Target Organs: None.

Potential Health Effects
Eye: May cause eye irritation. Vapors may cause conjunctiva
irritation.
Skin: May cause skin irritation.
Ingestion: May cause irritation of the digestive tract.
Inhalation: Aspiration may lead to pulmonary edema. Exposure to
thermodegradation products may cause influenza-like symptoms such as
chills, headache, mild respiratory discomfort, shaking of the limbs,
and high fever.
Chronic: Experimental carcinogen.

<[email hidden]> wrote: (clip)an oxy-acetylene

Quoted message said:

(or more recently oxy-LPG) brazing setup. (clip)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
With good technique this should work fine, but to a beginner, the following
warning might be in order: The torch flame is much hotter than the temp
needed to produce a good flow. Directing the flame against a stranded cable
tends to turn the front strands red hot before the back part is hot enough.
It is best to use a soft flame, and keep it moving, so the cable temp comes
up slowly and evenly. A little practice on a scrap cable might be wise.

This comes up every couple of months and a quick Google search would reveal
that if you use acid plumber's flux the solder will stick to your undoubtly
stainless cables. Use a propane torch, not an iron.
Phil Brown

In article <[email hidden]>,

(Phil Brown) said:

This comes up every couple of months and a quick Google search would reveal
that if you use acid plumber's flux the solder will stick to your undoubtly
stainless cables. Use a propane torch, not an iron.

Of course, you could always take your bike down to Tiffany's and see if
any of their house jewelers could whip up some diamond-studded gold
cable ends for you. I'm sure that the aesthetic effect would be well
worth it.

Todd Kuzma

Peter Cole said:

I don't screw around with solder/paint/glue any more. I just use new
cables. I find that I re-thread cables so rarely that replacement is

a good

Quoted message said:

idea anyway.

<irony>

I don't screw around with finding punctures, and replacing tubes any
more. I just throw away the whole wheel and replace it with another.
I mean, I rarely get more one puncture per month anyway, and given that
it's usually the rear, this means I don't have to worry about cassette
wear, either, as the new wheel comes with a new cassette.

</irony>

One of the things that a few cyclists around the place are into is
sustainability and environmental responsibility. If it works, then
don't throw it away. If it's broken, then at least make some attempt
at fixing it, and minimise the amount of stuff that you put in
land-fill. This sort of "just chuck it away" statement is really evil,
IMHO.

Regards,

Suzy